Best and easiest to install headers

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smrcuda

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I am considering replacing the headers on my 68 cuda. Want to get the ceramic coated headers.
Does anyone have an opinion on what the best and easiest to install headers ?
Looking at TTi but pretty pricey. there are othe ceramic coated headers out there for less money.
Thank you for your input.
 
Save yourself some money and just buy the TTIs the first time. I bought 2 other sets first.
 
Well the easist header I've ever installed on an A body, is the schumacker shorties. I had a 400 in a 71 scamp. Plugs are easy to get at, and even the starter can be pulled without to much greif. The only problem I had with these is the starter wire burned through the header, and that caused some trouble for me at an intersection!
 
It has a 340 engine and a automatic transmission. No power steering or air.
The set that is in there now is a bear to get in. I hope they come out a little easier.
 
smrcuda said:
It has a 340 engine and a automatic transmission. No power steering or air.
The set that is in there now is a bear to get in. I hope they come out a little easier.
Click to expand...

As stated above - spend once - get a set of ceramic coated TTis with their H or X pipe extension and a mini starter. You can use the old big style starter, but you cannot remove without disconnecting the header. A ministarter can be R&R without disconnecting any exhaust.

An item not mentioned in their instructions that seems to help installation is to disconnect the idler arm from the frame so you can manoever the centre link out of the way better. If you use the 3/4 length oil filter, you do not need a 90* adapter. I use NAPA #1068 or equivalent.
If you go with TTI give me a pm for a few more suggestions.
 
I don't mean tread on this thread, but the response about a/c and headers reminds me of a question and it's related. Why would having a/c or not a/c matter? I can't think of why it would matter on our Mopars? The pump is in the center of the engine and the lines run know were near the exhaust, just wondering.


Chuck
 
388dart said:
As stated above - spend once - get a set of ceramic coated TTis with their H or X pipe extension and a mini starter. You can use the old big style starter, but you cannot remove without disconnecting the header. A ministarter can be R&R without disconnecting any exhaust.

An item not mentioned in their instructions that seems to help installation is to disconnect the idler arm from the frame so you can manoever the centre link out of the way better. If you use the 3/4 length oil filter, you do not need a 90* adapter. I use NAPA #1068 or equivalent.
If you go with TTI give me a pm for a few more suggestions.
Click to expand...

Leo,
I have the TTI headers in and have it almost back together. There is defianitly better clearance. I still have to get the x pipe wleded up so i can get it in.
On the Oil filter. I like your idea of getting rid of the 90* adadpter. I may even be able to put a full size oil fliter in. It looks like I need to get another adapter. Do you have any ideas where one can pick up a staight adapter what they look like?
Thanks for the input.
Steve R
 
smrcuda said:
Leo,
I have the TTI headers in and have it almost back together. There is defianitly better clearance. I still have to get the x pipe wleded up so i can get it in.
On the Oil filter. I like your idea of getting rid of the 90* adadpter. I may even be able to put a full size oil fliter in. It looks like I need to get another adapter. Do you have any ideas where one can pick up a staight adapter what they look like?
Thanks for the input.
Steve R
Click to expand...
All LA 318/340/360 engines (trucks and cars) would have come with a so called flat plate type adapter if it doesnot have the 90* on it and should be very plentifull off any SB mopar. Stay away from 88-91 truck 360s - the adapter is slightly different. When you get one drill 4 more 1/4" holes in it in similiar location to the 4 in it - improves oil flow.
glad you like the TTIs.
 
Leo,
Thanks for the tipp on the holes.
Do you think that plate would be avaiable at parts store?
I'm thinking i will have to go to a dealer to pick one up.
Thanks again
 
FWIW, I am using Hedman headers on the 360 in my 68 Barracuda. I installed them with the engine so it was quite straight forward but just had the drivers side out last weekend to change the steering box from a manual to power unit. There was a fair amount of items that I need to remove but all in all the drivers side header comes out and went in with a minimum of hassles.

Here is what I did;

1. put car up on jack stands about 2' in the air.
2. Disconnected the center link from the drivers side tie rod and pitman arm.
3. removed the started and z-bar for the clutch.
4. removed the steering column.
5. unbolted the header from the head and the collector from the exhaust pipe.
6. pulled the header out. With these items out of the way and a manul box the header came right out with no issues.
7. pulled the steering box.

At this point I started the installation of the power steering box and reassembly;

8. Place the power box in place but do not bolt it in.
9. un-bolt the drivers side motor mount and raise the engine as much as possible for a little more working room.
10. Place the header back into place but do not bolt it to the head. Hold it over as much as possible with a bungy cord.
11. Bolt the power steering box back into place.
12. Bolt the header to the head.

From this point on it was just a reversal of what I had removed. I started this a 9:00am on a Saturday broke for lunch at 12:00pm and was finished by 2:30pm. All in all not a bad job.
 
i have had headman , hookers and tti's on my 360 dart and the tti's were by far the easiest to put on.. not to mention freeing up all kinds of plug wire room...
 
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