I don't know much about the factory small block cams.
but I'll take the 68 stick cam. thank you
Thanks guys for the info.
but I'll take the 68 stick cam. thank you
Thanks guys for the info.
Best E58 360HP Camshaft....your guesses
- Thread starter ValerianMagnum
- Start date
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It has some misinformation in this article that he wrote for one the 72 motor did not get 1,92 intake valves. And as far as I know all 340s had a 750 thermoquad if they had a thermoquad.
1972 - The 340 four-barrel dropped to 240 horsepower:
1972 - The 340 four-barrel dropped to 240 horsepower:
- Compression dropped to 8.5:1; the compression height of the piston via wrist pin location changed by 0.10"
- The crankshaft was switched from forged to cast somewhere in the production cycle, believed to be in early April 1972, with engine 39118000 (thanks, Karl Thomas); a milder camshaft was used
- 340/360 were moved to "J" casting heads with 1.92" intake valves; exhaust valves remained the same
- Paint went from orange to corporate blue
So just off this article we get
1 68 manual cam
2 68 automatic cam
3 70-71 manual cam
4 70 automatic cam?
5 72 a milder cam
6. 73 got the 68 automatic cam
1 68 manual cam
2 68 automatic cam
3 70-71 manual cam
4 70 automatic cam?
5 72 a milder cam
6. 73 got the 68 automatic cam
Different part numbers. What were all the specs?
K.O. SWINGER
Meeting in the alley since 1976
Two 340 factory grinds 1968 4 speed and all rest the other
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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At WOT and after about 3500 rpm,
8/1 compression is not that big a deal.
At PT (Part Throttle),8/1 compression is also not that big a deal.
In both cases, unless the the engine is forced to stay at low rpm by gearing. And is horribly aggravated by poundage. And even worse by a lo-stall TC.
With 2.76s, 27" tires, and a 2.66 low gear in the ManualTrans ;
2000rpm is 22mph,
3000 is 33mph,
4000 is 44mph,
5000 is 55mph,
5600 is 61mph
if you trap at 90mph, that will be 4330rpm in Third gear, (5940 in Second gear).
90mph is a P/W of 17.3 w/ a manual trans so if your car weighs
3400, then 3400/17.3= 196hp. If your car weighs
3700 pounds then 214hp;if
3900 then 225hp
If you trap at 95mph, you will have to be in third gear, so 95=4570.
So you are geared, and stalled all wrong at both ends, making you probably at least a second slower than it could be.
To go 14.4 with street suspension requires a P/W of about .074, so at 3700 pounds that is 275 hp crank, but assumes you are geared correctly, which would be somewhere around top of third gear so say 5300@95=3.23s. to trap 95 in 4th @95, will take 4.48s, round to 4.30s
There is your required gearing to 95 at 3700 pounds with 275 hp. at about 14.4 with street suspension.
now you just gotta figure out how to get your lo-compression 360 up to 275 crank, AND, off the line.
But your dream is 13.99.
With street suspension, that will take a P/W of about .085 with a manual trans, and the trap speed will be around 101 mph.
At .085P/W and 3700 pounds, then 3700 x.085= 315hp
That 315 hp is gonna take some rpm with lo-compression so lets say the power peak is 5400, and we'll shift at 5600. So then 5600 in 4th gear with 27s is 4.45s, rounds to 4.30s. Your starter gear is then; 4.3 x2.66=11.44 that half decent.
Ok so how do you make 315 hp with lo-compression? Well firstly the cam is gonna need to be , Ima thinking, something like the 292/292/108 Mopar, which is about [email protected] IIRC. Then all the usuals like headers and a free-flowing exhaust, etc.
Ok so lets add this up;
Your costs are;
4.30 gears, big cam kit, a valve job, and supportworks.
I won't include intake and carb, Ho fuelpump, hi-energy ignition, HP cooling system; cuz you are gonna require those no matter what you do. So the buy-in to go 13.99 is reasonable.
Now here is the badnews
With a Static C/R of 8.0, and the Ica of 75* for that big Purple cam, Your DYNAMIC C/R is down in the dungeon at 5.9:1, and estimated cylinder pressure of 105psi. Your sub 3200rpm performance, on the street is estimated to be very similar to a stock 225 slanty. At 3700 pounds, even with 4.30s, that is gonna be a bigfat disappointment to you.
To get the missing bottom end back, your pressure needs to be increased to 155psi at the least, 160 is better.
155 will take an Scr of 10.7; and 160 will take 11/1.
So, in the beginning, I said
At WOT and after about 3500 rpm,
8/1 compression is not that big a deal.
At PT (Part Throttle),8/1 compression is also not that big a deal.
And that is still true. Your 8/1 Scr is only killing about 5% to 7% power or say 18hp with that 292 cam.
And at PT, no big deal to be at 5.9 Dcr, you just drive a lil deeper into the primaries.
But
At low rpm, not at WOT, and not at PT on the primaries, 105psi is a HUGE deal! It will be sucked-out,doggie as heck and drink gas at an alarming rate.
IMO it would be a huge mistake to run a 292 in that combo, on the street. That's messed up.
Now 18 hp is a lil more than one cam size in this combo. So if you bumped the pressure up to where it needs to be, you could easily run probably a size and a half less cam and probably a size and a half less rear gear.
If you switched to a solid lifter cam, you could drop another size on the advertised and make another 5 to 7 psi, without any loss of top-end power. So now we're down to about a [email protected] Solid lifter cam, which is a street-strip combo. With a lil headwork, at 3700 pounds, 13.99 might be doable with a 230SFT cam, and with 3.91s now, she is becoming more streetable by the hour. Still not really a DD, but almost. Every 100 pounds, now, is worth ~10 hp. So if you can't get to 13.99 at 3700, just drop some poundage.
So what are we up to?
Hi-compression pistons, decking, gears, a SFT cam kit, adjustable valve gear, a lil headwork , and the usuals.
BTW;
From 105 to 135psi is a night and day difference in the driving experience. From 135 to 155/160, is another huge jump.
I'll tell ya; at 155/160psi, you will never be disappointed in the day to day experience.
As for me; in a streeter;
I would chose the 160psi, over a 4bbl@105psi every time.
With 2.76s I would even sacrifice headers.
It may not be quick in the quarter, but it will be a blast around town. I mean;
2000rpm is 22mph, 3000 is 33mph, 4000 is 44mph,All in First gear.
That's my opinion, and it's the best I got.
BTW
many decades ago,back in the 70s; I put an entire 1969 318 top end and cam, into/onto a 340, in a 65 V100 Wagon. And had a blast around town for two years. Pressure it had, in spades. But back then, we also had "real" gas.
That's been my understanding, although they had different part numbers through the years, the specs were the same, 340 4 speed and "everything else" just like you said. He seems to think there are more......and for all I know he may be right. I'm ready to learn somethin new here. lol
ValerianMagnum
the little car that could
If im not mistaken it was th 68 hot manual cam and the regular 429/430 and 444 lift , that was from the e55 340 and in the e58 360. *** So overall if a good 74 360 hp was a strong runner , a stock 340 cam in my 360 will do the job
Absolutely it will. But I think I would choose the Comp version instead. Much more modern lobes AND they are specific to the .903 lifter diameter.
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Isn't the Mopar OEM cams also specific to the .903 lifter diameter?
As far as I know. Good luck finding one.
Yes, lose that partikular TQ, IIRC, look for a pre lean burn TQ, before 1976, or 1980 and later.
I put a 74 440 into a 70 Newport. It made 20 miles per gallon at 70 mph. 276 gears/P235/75R15 tires. Kim
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This cam is the NHRA "Stocker Cam". Not a good street cam for gas milage.
Thanks, Randall. I think you're right. I thought I was linking to Lunasty's version of the factory 340 cam, but this one has a good bit more duration.
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The EH1 was not an E58. It was a modified E58.
The EH1 only came out in the LRE. It had a bigger carb than the E58 engines.
Where is it written that the 79 LRE used a differant cam? What about the 1980 LRE's that went to Canada?
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