Best next upgrade?

-
breadly

breadly

Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2022
Messages
14
Reaction score
7
Location
Oregon
Got a hold of this 69 FB barracuda a few months ago and the P.O. did a few upgrades.
318, rebuilt/ bored .030 over, edelbrock performer plus cam ([email protected], .420 lift, 110LSA). Edelbrock Performer intake, 600 carb.
675 factory heads
Mopar electronic distributor with orange box.
904, rebuilt, stock converter
7-1/4 open rear with 3.55
Dual exhaust with stock manifolds.
14in rallies with skinny radials.

So far I’ve put an electric fuel pump, headlight relay kit, new front engine and headlight wiring harness, replaced sagging rear leafs with “super stock”, re curved distributor, rebuilt carburetor, fixed some general electrical and interior problems.

Now I’m trying to decide where my money is best spent on next performance upgrade..
Headers? More cam? New heads? Higher stall converter? Posi? Wider rims/tires? EFI? 8-3/4?

I feel I’ll end up doing most of the above over next few years, but which would y’all do first? Which will give the most “smiles per mile” understanding that stuff will get done incrementally…
0BD40B6E-29F5-4FA1-B87B-BEE537969211.jpeg


819C7E6C-B9B7-4F29-91C6-0C4FA9A0B91A.jpeg
 
brakes/suspension & wheels/tires is where I'd go next

upgrade to big bolt pattern and get better choices of wheels, a better rear end and disc brakes up front. disc brakes are always a welcome addition and better suspension will really wake up the handling (along with bigger/better tires).

car runs and drives now, making it a pleasure to drive is loads more satisfying than an extra 50hp
 
I'd do something with the wheels or diff. How long will the 7 1/4" last? Some different wheels or at least trim rings would spiff it up nicely.
 
only if you catch traction
318 300 shot 7 1/4 lasted quite a while but not the tires
he needs an 8 3/4 at some point
i did miss the7 1/4 no spray unless your understand its gonna pop
8 3/4 would be nice upgrade not cheap
check out the ford explorer swap
 
Forgot to mention I also put new shocks in all 4 corners. Was thinking about sway bar, disc brakes should be on the list for sure!
 
Depends what you plan to do with the car. I'd build it different if I was planning to use it daily, versus if it was goi g to be a racecar or a cruiser.
 
Phreakish said:
Depends what you plan to do with the car. I'd build it different if I was planning to use it daily, versus if it was goi g to be a racecar or a cruiser.
Click to expand...
It’s not a daily, have other cars. I live near a drag strip, but I’m not a racer. It may go there once or twice just for grins. Mostly a cruiser / fun car. Wrenching is half the purpose of it for me…
 
Get ride of the 7-1/4. An 8-1/4 is strong and a lot less money than a 8-3/4.
 
breadly said:
It’s not a daily, have other cars. I live near a drag strip, but I’m not a racer. It may go there once or twice just for grins. Mostly a cruiser / fun car. Wrenching is half the purpose of it for me…
Click to expand...

That's as good a reason as any!

I'd get a bigger/better rear end under it first. Mostly because that one isn't likely to last, obviously.

Personally, I would also do efi. Mostly because it's quicker and easier (for me) to make changes as other things get tweaked (like stall, exhaust, etc).

I'd shoot for 3.2X-4.X gearing in the new rear end depending on how often you plan to track it and your speed limits and how long you can stand 3500+ rpm on the highway, LOL.

From there you can go wild and not wind up stranded by a busted axle. I'd go for headers before dinking with the motor. Motor stuff will all make more difference once the other stuff is there.

I'd build a new motor before I went with more cam in a 318, but that's just me. Nothing wrong with the little motor, but they tend to lack enough compression to work well with bigish cams.
 
To increase engine performance your cam choice needs to be well thought out. Stock heads and compression are limiting factors. 65'
 
I'd skip over the 8 3/4 and go straight to the D60.... (Same money more bang for the buck..)
And now you're going to be ready for anything you through at it . Good headers hands down...
Then.. my personal bang for the buck:
Build 360 stroker...
4 spread.....
555 nito's....
Oh ya if you got big ones..
DUAL QUAD TUNNEL RAM....!!!!... :thumbsup:
 
I would shake the Rallye wheels in favor of some steel wheels with Plymouth Division dog dishes.
I would also shake the SS springs, for a set of stock replacement springs, to lower the back, and get a better stance.

image (1).jpg
 
If you plan on more engine upgrades in the future and race on a glued track with racing compound tires, skip the 8 3/4 and go to a 9 1/4 or dana 60 right away.
 
ch1ll said:
If you plan on more engine upgrades in the future and race on a glued track with racing compound tires, skip the 8 3/4 and go to a 9 1/4 or dana 60 right away.
Click to expand...
If the drag strip in Oregon the op lives close to is Woodburn you can loose a shoe walking on the starting line...
My 8 3/4 lasted about 20 passes....
 
1st Rear end/brakes/tires
2nd heads and headers
3rd cam and stall/tranny
 
junkyardhero said:
brakes/suspension & wheels/tires is where I'd go next

upgrade to big bolt pattern and get better choices of wheels, a better rear end and disc brakes up front. disc brakes are always a welcome addition and better suspension will really wake up the handling (along with bigger/better tires).

car runs and drives now, making it a pleasure to drive is loads more satisfying than an extra 50hp
Click to expand...
Yeah. Reading through his list I was expecting to see brake upgrades. I did not. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah. Reading through his list I was expecting to see brake upgrades. I did not. lol
Click to expand...
You caught me. It’s on the whiteboard on the shop wall, but forgot to list it here :)
I figured discs in the front at least. I’m torn about BBP upgrade given the rear that also needs upgrade and the cascade $ effects on wheels / tires / etc
 
breadly said:
You caught me. It’s on the whiteboard on the shop wall, but forgot to list it here :)
I figured discs in the front at least. I’m torn about BBP upgrade given the rear that also needs upgrade and the cascade $ effects on wheels / tires / etc
Click to expand...
I think that should be what's immediately "NEXT". Actually, @junkyardhero caught you first. lol
 
Last edited:
breadly said:
You caught me. It’s on the whiteboard on the shop wall, but forgot to list it here :)
I figured discs in the front at least. I’m torn about BBP upgrade given the rear that also needs upgrade and the cascade $ effects on wheels / tires / etc
Click to expand...
go BBP and don't think twice. using stock components it's a robust system that's relatively inexpensive, has huge parts availability and is straight forward to install. you can go with something a little more bling-y and aftermarket too if that's what you're after. additionally there are other great aftermarket components that compliment the system-- tubular upper control arms, shocks, swaybars.

two great benefits to upgrading to BBP is disc brake fitment and it opens to the door to a vast selection of wheels. you can always sell your SBP ralleys!

drums out back are fine for a cruiser, you don't need to go discs out of the gate and can always upgrade later down the line.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top