Big Inch Small Block

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I know 444 CI isn’t that hard to do or make live, but you need a serious head to take advantage. 420ish seems like a good size for a full ported stock port location/shape head. Just asking? Or is there an intended use for it?
 
The biggest I personally know is 477” with W8 heads and made 1084 hp.
414”with W8 heads and that one made 742 hp.
416” with W9 heads and it made 696 hp before the heads got ported. Has not been run since the heads got ported.
I had a 436” with W2 heads and it made 652 hp.
 
33IMP said:
Acquaintance of mine ran a 468 in his 71 demon for several years. Cover car on Mopar Muscle, street driven nine second n/a car. Also had a later build Valiant on the cover too.
He built a 502, (yes, small block) but it was just too over the top, internals were too light, it didn't last long. While it was running, it made power!
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33IMP said:
I don't recall. What ever the maximum bore was of a race r-block, light small Chevy rods, with light pins, Honda rod journals, hockey puck pistons, billet crank with 4.25 stroke (at least, may have been more). Dry sump.
If memory serves, it kicked a rod out. Chevy part.
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4.25" stroke would need a 4.336 bore - which would work in a BB, but not a SB? A 4.5" stroke would need a 4.213" bore, and I think R blocks could go 4.220 - so maybe it was a 4.5" stroke? That would be a monster. R/S ratio would be around 1.36 though - not a good ratio for longevity LOL.
 
33IMP said:
I don't recall. What ever the maximum bore was of a race r-block, light small Chevy rods, with light pins, Honda rod journals, hockey puck pistons, billet crank with 4.25 stroke (at least, may have been more). Dry sump.
If memory serves, it kicked a rod out. Chevy part.[/QUOTE

Ron Silva. 501 inch motor. Ryan I believe helped him with it. Ran 9.9’s in street trim not leaning on it. Forget what happened with it
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BarracudaWild68 said:
Hello. Have you or anyone you know or have heard about, built that huge (476 cu. in.) big-inch small block that is in the back of that book titled "How To Build Big Inch Mopar Small Blocks"? It would be a tremendously great engine to have in an A-body, but the block alone is thousands of dollars bare. I'd love to know how much money it would take to complete it, with as many modestly-priced parts as would be safe or practical to use in building this bad boy, since it would need custom-made pistons and quite possibly a dry sump system. The authors stated that with moderate effort, the engine combo could make 850 hp., no problem. I know that it wouldn't be necessary to have it in your car to have fun, but oooh boy, that sound and fury that engine would produce. I'll most likely just build a high horse 318 and call it a day. Just pipe dreams, I guess. You never know.
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I do NOT want to irritate you, but I cannot see the reason to build a huge cubic inch small block. Hor the HP you could get from a 440, the small block would cost a LOT more and would probably not be as reliable or last as long.

RustyRatRod said:
Build a 440 and put aluminum parts on it.
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Totally agree.
 
build a bullet proof 408 and top it with a screw. :D
 
I built a 428 cid Ritter block with a pair of twins, HP unknown waiting to take her to the dyno and see what it will make on 91 pump and 110 race.

20200928_104140.jpg
 
Matt how did you go with your gauges also do you know anyone with a 4.25 crank for my ritter fixed the problem using Felpro 1008 gasket no puffer 10,5 :1 so shouldn't be a problem goingng to do a 4.25 stroke 4.125 bore build
 
AUSA66 said:
Matt how did you go with your gauges also do you know anyone with a 4.25 crank for my ritter fixed the problem using Felpro 1008 gasket no puffer 10,5 :1 so shouldn't be a problem goingng to do a 4.25 stroke 4.125 bore build
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Gauges turned out fine, they did upgrade me to their revolution gauge for both and now its reading fine, just odd. I haven't heard of a by one with the 4.25 crank in a Ritter, would be fun though, as long as its the smaller Chevy ends should clear or need minor clearance unless you have the 340 smaller main size then it might clear no problem, 360 mains might be close or need clearancing, not really sure. I almost went with the 4.125 to match my same bore as you.
 
harrisonm said:
I do NOT want to irritate you, but I cannot see the reason to build a huge cubic inch small block. Hor the HP you could get from a 440, the small block would cost a LOT more and would probably not be as reliable or last as long.


Totally agree.
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Because it's so much fun smokin' big blocks with a small block! Define huge?
 
New England drag racing legend Steve Clukey runs a 440 ci small block based on a Ritter block, backed with a 4 speed lenco. Runs 8.50s in the 1/4.
 
With an aftermarket block the sb gets pretty heavy. The big block, weight wise doesn’t look as bad. If the idea is that you can say “i have a 500 CI small block.” Ok, but performance? There are easier and cheaper ways.
 
furrystump said:
With an aftermarket block the sb gets pretty heavy. The big block, weight wise doesn’t look as bad. If the idea is that you can say “i have a 500 CI small block.” Ok, but performance? There are easier and cheaper ways.
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Big blocks suck *** to change spark plugs on and are still heavier......race block for me 90% of the time and the one that isn't has a short fill.
 
Not sure what the Ritter weighs, but unless you machine a bunch of weight out of the R block it is 40 lbs? more than a stock LA.
 
furrystump said:
Not sure what the Ritter weighs, but unless you machine a bunch of weight out of the R block it is 40 lbs? more than a stock LA.
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What real difference does it make? Your not going to make 900 plus HP with a stock big block either.....they fail way more often than a small block in a stock platform so if you don't make big power stay with a stock block and if you do make big power you step up to a race block which is heavier for the obvious reasons as to why they survive.
 
'68cuda416 said:
Big blocks suck *** to change spark plugs on and are still heavier......race block for me 90% of the time and the one that isn't has a short fill.
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Agreed, wouldn’t want to have to deal with the packaging. I know many people do it, but I drive mine quite a bit so the easier regular maintenance is to do the better.
furrystump said:
Not sure what the Ritter weighs, but unless you machine a bunch of weight out of the R block it is 40 lbs? more than a stock LA.
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Wish there were more current info on the Ritter block from people using them. Would like to get a race block to build, but the only thing that seems to be left are the 48 degree ones and the Ritter.
 
33IMP said:
Agree!
There is a guy on this coast running a white dart with a 420+ inch small block in the small tire/n.a. classes. Best (I think) of mid fives at 3000 plus lbs. Also around 900 hp I think.
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Shiloh Davies
CA436CBF-40C3-4EC6-B5A3-BAB8B8251E02.png

Edited to add pic. He’s now in the low 5s at Irwindale.
 
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