Billet Wheel adapter ?

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What is the lenght of original studs? Has the wheel adaptor to be thicker than 30mm to prevent the stud to protude from the top of the adapter?

The thinnest ones I’ve seen that have the second set of studs are 20mm, and they do caution you to check to make sure the original studs don’t stick out past the adapter. The 1” spacer is more common, and most OE studs won’t have an issue with those.
 
The thinnest ones I’ve seen that have the second set of studs are 20mm, and they do caution you to check to make sure the original studs don’t stick out past the adapter. The 1” spacer is more common, and most OE studs won’t have an issue with those.

I would like to convert my '71 Demon (with front disk brakes) from 5X4" to 5X4.5" bolt pattern.
So, I can use a set of 4 1" wheels adaptors..? The hub studs won't stick out?
Thank you and excuse me for my poor english (just hope that I'm understandable)

Francois
 
I would like to convert my '71 Demon (with front disk brakes) from 5X4" to 5X4.5" bolt pattern.
So, I can use a set of 4 1" wheels adaptors..? The hub studs won't stick out?
Thank you and excuse me for my poor english (just hope that I'm understandable)

Francois

Correct, with 1” thick adaptors you shouldn’t have any problems with the studs on the hub. Just remember that you’ll need an extra 1” of backspace to make up for the adapter
 
I have a set of 4

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Probably not. But you need to check those studs after you torque the stock lug nuts down. If the studs extend past the face of the adapter, you'll have to get shorter ones or cut the excess length off.

Yes, you're right. The goal of my conversion is to install a set of 5X4.5" Mag 500 rims.
Today, I checked the back of the rim and there's a recess between each stud hole.
So, even if the studs slighlty stick out, they won't interfer with the rim.

IMG_20200810_203235.jpg


I have a set of 4

I'm interested. For sale?
Why is there a difference of center hole diameter?

Francois
 
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Yes, you're right. The goal of my conversion is to install a set of 5X4.5" Mag 500 rims.
Today, I checked the back of the rim and there's a recess between each bolt hole.
So, even if the studs slighlty stick out, they won't interfer with the rim.

View attachment 1715575991



I'm interested. For sale?
Why is there a difference of center hole diameter?

Francois
Disc brakes and from brakes
 
A) I would not want metric studs. B) Will a 64.1mm (2.52") center bore fit your hubs/axles? C) While 100mm is close to 4" it's off a little, like .063". Might get away with it, but when the 100% correct ones are easy enough to find, why bother?
 
I'm interested with the set, but the vendor wrote me that he's not sure the adaptators will fit my '71 Demon.

What do you think about?

4PC 1" 5x100 To 5x114.3 Wheel Adapters 12x1.5 5x4.5 Spacers Changes Bolt Pattern | eBay

A) I would not want metric studs. B) Will a 64.1mm (2.52") center bore fit your hubs/axles? C) While 100mm is close to 4" it's off a little, like .063". Might get away with it, but when the 100% correct ones are easy enough to find, why bother?

5x100 is not the same as 5x4” and a 64mm hub bore will NOT clear the hub registers even on a SBP car.

The seller of the other adaptors is just trying to get out of taking the adaptors back if they don’t fit. Those application lists on eBay are notoriously inaccurate.

If the adaptors will fit a SBP Barracuda or Duster like they’re advertised to they’ll fit your Demon.
 
I can understand that 5x100mm pattern isn't exactly the same as 5x4".
But why do you say that 64mm hub bore won't clear the hub? Demon hubs are 59mm in diameter (disk and drum).
 
I can understand that 5x100mm pattern isn't exactly the same as 5x4".
But why do you say that 64mm hub bore won't clear the hub? Demon hubs are 59mm in diameter (disk and drum).

Whoops, sorry, you’re right. I was thinking BBP for some reason, those are 70-71mm.

I’d still use the first ones, not the 5x100 ones.
 
Once again this is completely wrong information. The hub centric Chrysler uses is 2.805" [ 71.25mm ] DIA not 71mm . That would be a .010" interference if you used 71mm. If the hub in your rims were ordered with a 71mm bore, and they don't seem to slide over the hub centric on the axle or rotor... that would be why.

Some aftermarket manufacturer's don't give a **** and they just make the size under whatever Chrysler used, so they don't have parts sent back and your rims always fit. But you aren't using the hub centric to center your wheels and they could vibrate. That's because if the hub centric is say 70mm and you rim is for ***** and giggles is 71.25mm, your wheel could out of concentricity +/-.025" when bolted on.

If you are battling a vibration that you notice comes and goes when you put on or take off your wheels, that's usually the problem.
 
If you are battling a vibration that you notice comes and goes when you put on or take off your wheels, that's usually the problem.

my car seems to vibrate way less without the wheels on it...but then again, i dont drive it much without the wheels on it

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"Hub-centric" is not necessary if you have all the lug nuts on, they are the right lug nuts for the wheels, and they are torqued correctly. We never worried about it in the '60s-'80s; if the wheel fit, it nearly always worked. The aftermarket manufactured all their wheels with the biggest hub bore to fit any car you might stick them on, and there was no such thing as "centering rings". Seemed to work great up until the last 20 years or so. I don't know what changed to start all this over-complicatitis.
 
Lower profile tires and less forgiving radials today. But I remember working on old muscle cars in the 80’s and having vibration issues and tires that made wallowing sounds as they were driven down the road.

And who doesn’t remember somebody having their shank style lugnuts whop out a rim?
 
My earliest memory of loosening lug nuts, 1976.... good friends I grew up with. He bought a new VW Beetle for his new wife. The dealership had added the aftermarket alloy wheels. Wasn't long before he learned he would need to check/retorque lug nuts every few hundred miles. Pattern adapters? Hubcentric? I dont know. Just saying its not a modern problem
 
I canceled the 5X100mm set order on ebay and got my refund.

What do you think of this one?

4 Wheel Adapters 5 Lug 5x4 To 5x4.5 Early Dodge Plymouth To Wheels 5x114.3mm 1" | eBay

There is no set regulations as to how these get made. (2) maybe made one way, (2) another way. Or (4) different from each other. It’s eBay! The only thing they will have in common is the adapt the bolt patterns and are about the same thickness.

You need to look for T6 billet ones. Then you need to look at how they are actually machined. (Not the eBay pic, it’s generic showing you the perfect world where everything worked out).

The problem with the adapters going from 4” BC to 4-1/2” is the bore they put down the middle. It usually cuts into the c’bores on the 4” pattern, by a lot. And some of them were designed to use a 1/2” lug nut on the 4” BC. When you go to use say a 7/16 lug they bottom out before the tapers make contact on the thin adapters. Then some of them use such a small OD that it cuts into the c’bores for the lugs that are pressed in for the 4-1/2” BC.

I would look for the T6 adapters that slip fit over the hub centric on the axle side and give you a hub centric to mount your wheel onto. But that’s just me.

These things are always a gamble. They could be great or they could be Chinesium materials and prototyped on a donkey cart.
 
Once again this is completely wrong information. The hub centric Chrysler uses is 2.805" [ 71.25mm ] DIA not 71mm . That would be a .010" interference if you used 71mm. If the hub in your rims were ordered with a 71mm bore, and they don't seem to slide over the hub centric on the axle or rotor... that would be why.

Some aftermarket manufacturer's don't give a **** and they just make the size under whatever Chrysler used, so they don't have parts sent back and your rims always fit. But you aren't using the hub centric to center your wheels and they could vibrate. That's because if the hub centric is say 70mm and you rim is for ***** and giggles is 71.25mm, your wheel could out of concentricity +/-.025" when bolted on.

If you are battling a vibration that you notice comes and goes when you put on or take off your wheels, that's usually the problem.

Clearly you haven’t actually measured a hub register on a stock replacement rotor in some time. They vary by a lot more than .25mm, even from the same manufacturer.

The outer surface of the hub registers are as cast on pretty much all the currently available mopar replacement rotors. I wouldn’t even count on the registers being concentric to a tight tolerance. The lugs are far more likely to be centered to a tightly controlled tolerance than the outside of the hub registers.

Lower profile tires and less forgiving radials today. But I remember working on old muscle cars in the 80’s and having vibration issues and tires that made wallowing sounds as they were driven down the road.

And who doesn’t remember somebody having their shank style lugnuts whop out a rim?

I feel like someone working in your industry should know that many currently manufactured cars are lug centric, and pretty much all of those run modern lower profile radials.

My earliest memory of loosening lug nuts, 1976.... good friends I grew up with. He bought a new VW Beetle for his new wife. The dealership had added the aftermarket alloy wheels. Wasn't long before he learned he would need to check/retorque lug nuts every few hundred miles. Pattern adapters? Hubcentric? I dont know. Just saying its not a modern problem

All aluminum rims are supposed to be re-torqued on a regular interval. Definitely not a modern problem, it’s just a consequence of the material. Regardless of the use of spacers if you have aluminum rims the torque needs to be checked on a schedule.

There is no set regulations as to how these get made. (2) maybe made one way, (2) another way. Or (4) different from each other. It’s eBay! The only thing they will have in common is the adapt the bolt patterns and are about the same thickness.

You need to look for T6 billet ones. Then you need to look at how they are actually machined. (Not the eBay pic, it’s generic showing you the perfect world where everything worked out).

The problem with the adapters going from 4” BC to 4-1/2” is the bore they put down the middle. It usually cuts into the c’bores on the 4” pattern, by a lot. And some of them were designed to use a 1/2” lug nut on the 4” BC. When you go to use say a 7/16 lug they bottom out before the tapers make contact on the thin adapters. Then some of them use such a small OD that it cuts into the c’bores for the lugs that are pressed in for the 4-1/2” BC.

I would look for the T6 adapters that slip fit over the hub centric on the axle side and give you a hub centric to mount your wheel onto. But that’s just me.

These things are always a gamble. They could be great or they could be Chinesium materials and prototyped on a donkey cart.

If you want one made the way you describe for this application you’ll have to make it yourself, because they’re not out there to find.
 
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