Biohazard

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Teeth & Tires said:
You're doing a B-body - I don't know if there is any diff but on my A, foam for the bottom, batting for the upper.
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I'm almost certain someone did a cheap re-do on my bench at one time, but never changed the padding. Mine has batting (both bottom and back), with burlap and wires below that.

The bottom has an additional layer of super-heavy vinyl (which feels almost like a bathtub mat to the touch) below the burlap. Not the case on the back.

I figured I'd simply substitute foam in place of the batting for the back.

-Kurt
 
Sorry to bug you again, T&T, but did you happen to buy your vinyl online? If so, what thickness did you order?

I ordered some marine vinyl online for mine, and it's way too thin; thinner than the recovered seat vinyl. I wouldn't be too concerned about it, but it so happens the replacement seat springs that I got from a '66 Belvedere terminate with the ends pointing upwards (the '68 ends point down - Chrysler must have figured this out quickly). Either way, I want to put extra protection against them poking through.

-Kurt
 
I would try to bend the tips or Dremel them down. As for the vinyl - i just happened to have some white vinyl laying around but go on down to a JoAnn Fabrics or similar and you'll have plenty to choose from.
 
Teeth & Tires said:
I would try to bend the tips or Dremel them down. As for the vinyl - i just happened to have some white vinyl laying around but go on down to a JoAnn Fabrics or similar and you'll have plenty to choose from.
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I figure if I Dremel them down, I'll just wind up making them sharper in another direction, unless I can round out the tops. Easier to put some rubber plugs on them. They don't respond well to bending, that's for sure. Not sure I want to stress them either..

Ahahaha - I already went to JoAnn and found a good piece of vinyl, but figured I could do better on Amazon. And I did - both the foam and vinyl were half the price of their equivalents at JoAnn (I had looked at the thinner vinyl there too), but the vinyl listing at Amazon failed to note thickness. Only one lists itself as 32oz.

-Kurt
 
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That's why I would have steered away from online vendors...I don't speak textile so, for me, better to feel the material and judge it's suitability by hand.
 
Teeth & Tires said:
That's why I would have steered away from online vendors...I don't speak textile so, for me, better to feel the material and judge it's suitability by hand.
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You ought to see what happened when I googled "32oz vinyl thickness." This thread happened: Print Page - looking for definition of vinyl weights

Of course, this stuff apparently varies in thickness, as the 32oz measurement varies by density. So, effectively, the definition of its thickness cannot be conveyed by the weight. Cute. And like an idiot, I apparently forgot to photograph the label at JoAnn when I was there.

-Kurt
 
Engine wouldn't stay running, and an unburnt A/F mixture wound up shooting back through the intake when the engine came to a stop (more accurately, reversed slightly due to compression in the other cylinders)?

How's your spark and timing? Any reason either would be giving trouble now as opposed to the last time it ran? My guess is this would have been a backfire had spark been OK.

By the time that plume came out of the carb, the engine was no longer running; all the spinning mechanical sounds were from the starter.

-Kurt
 
Spark and timing rock solid.
When it's cold, it will idle for about 30-40 seconds then start gagging until it dies. If I give her throttle before the gagging, I can keep her running at higher rpm, no problem.
Cutting power to the ign coil before she stalls prevents that plume of gas-fog from shooting back.
 
Teeth & Tires said:
Spark and timing rock solid.
When it's cold, it will idle for about 30-40 seconds then start gagging until it dies. If I give her throttle before the gagging, I can keep her running at higher rpm, no problem.
Cutting power to the ign coil before she stalls prevents that plume of gas-fog from shooting back.
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Before I start asking about the coil and ignition - I have to ask: How's the choke?

-Kurt
 
Seems to be working. Like I said; stone cold, she starts instantly and fast-idles for 30-40 seconds. Then the gagging (best description I have) which leads to stall.

It was running great - no issues but I let it sit since last December so, when I tried to reignite, and it was doing this crap, I first suspected varnish in the fuel way.
But after tearing down and cleaning the carb, I can rule that out.

Could this be vacuum?
 
Teeth & Tires said:
Seems to be working. Like I said; stone cold, she starts instantly and fast-idles for 30-40 seconds. Then the gagging (best description I have) which leads to stall.

It was running great - no issues but I let it sit since last December so, when I tried to reignite, and it was doing this crap, I first suspected varnish in the fuel way.
But after tearing down and cleaning the carb, I can rule that out.

Could this be vacuum?
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Vacuum, perhaps. Plug up all the ports on the intake and carb, and give it a try. If it shuts down, hook up a gauge and test it again. Just remember that you will definitely get bad vacuum readings from the gauge once the engine begins to stumble, whether it's a vacuum issue or not. The gauge will only tell you something if you get a stumbling needle before it begins shutting down.

Either way, it's quick enough to do all of this to rule it out (or not).

I'd put an in-line fuel pressure gauge on the system if this fails. At least to verify whether fuel is being delivered as intended.

-Kurt
 
Checked every vac point and the symptom remains.
My next thought - maladjusted floats?
 
Teeth & Tires said:
Checked every vac point and the symptom remains.
My next thought - maladjusted floats?
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It's worth it to check the fuel bowl for any obvious issues, but I doubt it's the float or anything associated with it. The most common issues would be a sticking needle, or a sunk float - both of which would result in the carb gushing fuel out the vent tube.

If you open the choke and open the throttle while looking down the choke horn (with the engine off), does the carb spray a sustained stream of fuel through the venturi?

-Kurt
 
Teeth & Tires said:
If you mean the accelerator pump...yes, its flowing fine.
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Gotcha. That adds up with what you said about keeping it running under acceleration. That leaves the float, needle, and idle mixture circuit. If those pass muster, it shouldn't be the fuel system at fault.

Out of curiosity, how's the distributor rotor? Generally a silly question, but worth asking about - just in case the centering tab has stripped itself (bizarre, but I've had this happen on a Ford Duraspark rotor).

-Kurt
 
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Seems I have an ignition issue. Really not happy since this points to my new-fangled electronic ign system. Something to do, I believe, with the coil. More testing needed.
 
Teeth & Tires said:
Seems I have an ignition issue. Really not happy since this points to my new-fangled electronic ign system. Something to do, I believe, with the coil. More testing needed.
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If you have any handy, you might want to clip a GM HEI ignition module (grounded on a heatsink, of course) to your wiring - if only temporary - to see if the module in your new distributor failed.

Not sure if I know a source for a module like the one in your distributor. Might be something generic and unique to it.

-Kurt
 
Did not want to overdo it. Had a hard time finding anything that wasn't 10+ inches wide. These are 6" up front and 7" in the rear. Perfect!
 
Teeth & Tires said:
Did not want to overdo it. Had a hard time finding anything that wasn't 10+ inches wide. These are 6" up front and 7" in the rear. Perfect!
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Width is great and so is the look.

How's the clearance up front with the fender?

-Kurt
 
Ooof. And here I thought I could throw 14x7" rims on the front of my Valiant (though the Valiant's wheel arch is a bit larger). What size tire combo?

-Kurt
 
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