CudaChris67
Well-Known Member
looking good! are you going to be ultimately installing trim around the cutouts, recess everything, or flush mount everything?
Birth of the Blue Missile
- Thread starter blue missile
- Start date
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blue missile
Well-Known Member
Chris,
I made up a sheet of carbon to make a trim plate out of for the AC controls, The radio opening will just be sanded and dyed black, the chrome trim is tapered and not meant for such an application.
Andrew
I made up a sheet of carbon to make a trim plate out of for the AC controls, The radio opening will just be sanded and dyed black, the chrome trim is tapered and not meant for such an application.
Andrew
blue missile
Well-Known Member
Here, minus some clear coat repairs, is the solution for the center console.
I relocated the power window switches to the center section, which works better if there is a drink in the cup holder. The AC controls have a trim plate, which still needs to be cleared.
Andrew
I relocated the power window switches to the center section, which works better if there is a drink in the cup holder. The AC controls have a trim plate, which still needs to be cleared.
Andrew
blue missile
Well-Known Member
I spent part of today converting one of Vintage Air's normally closed solenoid heater valves into a normally open version. All this took was to fabricate a new intermediate connecting plate. I have ordered a second which will be installed in the normal fashion.Then use the NO valve to divert hot water being pulled from the back of the heads to the heater core. Ill wire the second one in parallel so the signal from the unit will close one and open the other.
Andrew
Andrew
blue missile
Well-Known Member
I thought I would post a dwg of the heater valve layout. I received the second valve and a wiring harness from Vintage Air. Here is what it will look like. Getting the NO valve was the key to this.
Andrew
Andrew
CudaChris67
Well-Known Member
tell me if I am on the right track...pulling from back of the heads is for improved hose routing, and the additional valve is to allow complete bypass so you do not have any unwanted heat in the cabin?
blue missile
Well-Known Member
Sort of,
Yes this does eliminate one hose going to the front.
Pulling from the back of the heads is for improved cooling. Mopars cool from the bottom up. Cooler water is pumped into the bottom of the block and returns to the front via the heads. The water that ends up at the back of the heads then travels over the other three cylinder locations before being extracted by the water pump. If you can extract some of that water before it travels over those cylinders and get it cooled before it returns you have a net cooling gain.
The normally closed valve is standard, and if that were the only route for the water( which is the norm), there would be no advantage to the rear cross over except when the heat is on. This configuration allows full flow at all times.
Andrew
Yes this does eliminate one hose going to the front.
Pulling from the back of the heads is for improved cooling. Mopars cool from the bottom up. Cooler water is pumped into the bottom of the block and returns to the front via the heads. The water that ends up at the back of the heads then travels over the other three cylinder locations before being extracted by the water pump. If you can extract some of that water before it travels over those cylinders and get it cooled before it returns you have a net cooling gain.
The normally closed valve is standard, and if that were the only route for the water( which is the norm), there would be no advantage to the rear cross over except when the heat is on. This configuration allows full flow at all times.
Andrew
blue missile
Well-Known Member
This is for the 10&11meter crowd.
Back in the 70s I put together an antenna system that took advantage of the ground plane effect in RF transmitting. the trunk mounted antenna has its signal squeezed to above the top plane of the car, so it is not transmitting into the body but rather above it. The twin whips have their signal squeezed to above the trunk mount antenna. This squeezes the total signal to greatly favor fore and aft. This also eliminates the SWR problem.
Back in the 70s I used the lead foil tape commonly used in alarm systems to accomplish this. The lead foil of today is not available in 1mil, so I went to 1mil copper a hefty $15 investment.
After I tune the system I will put heat shrink on top of the copper.
Andrew
Back in the 70s I put together an antenna system that took advantage of the ground plane effect in RF transmitting. the trunk mounted antenna has its signal squeezed to above the top plane of the car, so it is not transmitting into the body but rather above it. The twin whips have their signal squeezed to above the trunk mount antenna. This squeezes the total signal to greatly favor fore and aft. This also eliminates the SWR problem.
Back in the 70s I used the lead foil tape commonly used in alarm systems to accomplish this. The lead foil of today is not available in 1mil, so I went to 1mil copper a hefty $15 investment.
After I tune the system I will put heat shrink on top of the copper.
Andrew
blue missile
Well-Known Member
I got the antenna system tweaked and have a final SWR of 1.4.
I got the ac unit hung, the bulkhead connector for the ac lines installed and the 2nd heater bypass valve hung on the wall as well.
I feel like a pretzel and I Hate working against gravity.
Andrew
I got the ac unit hung, the bulkhead connector for the ac lines installed and the 2nd heater bypass valve hung on the wall as well.
I feel like a pretzel and I Hate working against gravity.
Andrew
Viper21700
Well-Known Member
Interesting idea about the copper tape on the twin sticks.Not something I would have thought of.. Im a radio operator for the military by trade (and a HAM operator when Im bored), we're lazy, we use couplers and tuners for everything roflmao...
Want to do my electrical job on my barracuda for me?? Jesus, you are an evil evil genius lol. love the build
Want to do my electrical job on my barracuda for me?? Jesus, you are an evil evil genius lol. love the build
blue missile
Well-Known Member
Thanks Viper, The trunk mount has a foil shield as well , its on top of a piece of heat shrink. and now they all have black heat shrink their full length.
Andrew
Andrew
67 prostreet gt
Well-Known Member
blue missile
Well-Known Member
After talking to alot of shops, Mike Ware at muscle motors in Lansing will get the contract. he wants to punch out a 340R3 block to 472cuin with 750 hp I said so long as it will run92 octane Im good with that. Ill be removing the 545RFE and putting in an electric 6speed TCI, I have worked out the electronics for engaging the manual mode and paddle shifting from the steering wheel.
Its just a matter of the funds. Soon enough.
Andrew
Its just a matter of the funds. Soon enough.
Andrew
Viper21700
Well-Known Member
So Missile,
another tech related question... You've got a lot of electronics in your ride... electronics plus transmission equipment = RFI.. Shouldn't be a big issue with low powered 11m... I know with 10m over 40 watts or even high powered UHF Ive seen issues pop up on some vehicles...
another tech related question... You've got a lot of electronics in your ride... electronics plus transmission equipment = RFI.. Shouldn't be a big issue with low powered 11m... I know with 10m over 40 watts or even high powered UHF Ive seen issues pop up on some vehicles...
blue missile
Well-Known Member
Wow quite the question, cool.
Since you have a background, let me know what you think.
The electronics in the car are divided into two categories. The first are electro-mecahnical meaning hard wired 12&6 volt relays. I think those are safe even at say...200watts. The second are IC based processor units such as the CD player and say the gauges and a couple of voltage reducers. I assume the ignition unit will be in the second category. There is the FLIR system, but the camera is fairly shielded as are the feeds. The higher power option is on a separate control, and is there as a back up.
A lot of this is turning out to be "Best guess and go forward"
Andrew
Since you have a background, let me know what you think.
The electronics in the car are divided into two categories. The first are electro-mecahnical meaning hard wired 12&6 volt relays. I think those are safe even at say...200watts. The second are IC based processor units such as the CD player and say the gauges and a couple of voltage reducers. I assume the ignition unit will be in the second category. There is the FLIR system, but the camera is fairly shielded as are the feeds. The higher power option is on a separate control, and is there as a back up.
A lot of this is turning out to be "Best guess and go forward"
Andrew
67 prostreet gt
Well-Known Member
If I can put my two cents in I'd refrain from muscle motors because we have had poor experience with them the 540 that is under the hood of my dads power wagon had severe blow by for a engine that was "rebuilt" after a lifter malfunction caused us to pull the engine. After we got it back home it sat for awhile and during that time we decided to put a solid roller car in it and take it down to the guy that built my 526 well upon first inspections the builder found 3 Chinese grade bolts where the arp bolts were supposed to be to hold the caps in place on the block, the piston rings were shot they looked re used and melted and the intake was black on the inside. On their dyno it supposedly made 1255 on 93 octane ( procharged) and 1188 tourque on 16 pounds on boost but ya that didnt happen it looked like it wasn't even dynoed after it was put together and when the guy that we took it to rebuilt it we could get it to make over 1050 hp and we know his dyno is right because my 526 made 734 hp in that same engine dyno and in the car made 670 rear wheel hp so I'd stay away from muscle motors and go with Ryan Johnson at shady dell speed shop he is a note able small block engine builder he gets stuff from all over the world. He has 4 r3 small blocks in there right now and he does the w8 w9 motors to for the late models around here
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blue missile
Well-Known Member
Now Im conflicted, Ive heard many nightmare stories about Ryan's work. Let's put this in perspective.
The build Im requiring will cost between $15,000 & $20,000. There has to be a machine shop that will produce a quality product and stand behind it. There will be a contract, and default of that contract will be dealt with very severely.
Lets equate that to a proctologist with a beach umbrella.
That being said,if you have done this before it should not be a problem.
Let me put this out there, If you have blessed me, Ill shout it from the mountain tops. If you have screwed me, Ill shout it even louder!
The check has not been written, so its all on the table.
Andrew
The build Im requiring will cost between $15,000 & $20,000. There has to be a machine shop that will produce a quality product and stand behind it. There will be a contract, and default of that contract will be dealt with very severely.
Lets equate that to a proctologist with a beach umbrella.
That being said,if you have done this before it should not be a problem.
Let me put this out there, If you have blessed me, Ill shout it from the mountain tops. If you have screwed me, Ill shout it even louder!
The check has not been written, so its all on the table.
Andrew
Viper21700
Well-Known Member
Missile,
Your electromechanical shouldn't be an issue. Same reason on navy ships a lot of our equipment uses mechanical relays with high power switching systems.. After thinking about it some after I posted, and discussing my question with one of my mobile radio guru's, as long as your grounds are good you should be ok.. Did you get them PM I sent?
Also- is your galaxy a CB only rig, or is it a HAM rig as well? Whats the output power?
All I got to say though is good lord, you've got more wiring in that car than the entire radio shop on my ship had lol.. Heck, if you ever have to scrap your car do to an accident, might want to consider selling the wiring seperatly hahaha.. Copper is a hot commodity at the metal salvage yards lately roflmao..
Are we going to get some updates this weekend?
Your electromechanical shouldn't be an issue. Same reason on navy ships a lot of our equipment uses mechanical relays with high power switching systems.. After thinking about it some after I posted, and discussing my question with one of my mobile radio guru's, as long as your grounds are good you should be ok.. Did you get them PM I sent?
Also- is your galaxy a CB only rig, or is it a HAM rig as well? Whats the output power?
All I got to say though is good lord, you've got more wiring in that car than the entire radio shop on my ship had lol.. Heck, if you ever have to scrap your car do to an accident, might want to consider selling the wiring seperatly hahaha.. Copper is a hot commodity at the metal salvage yards lately roflmao..
Are we going to get some updates this weekend?
blue missile
Well-Known Member
Sorry for the rant but my day job is construction manager., I don't do half-assed very well.
I went on Ebay and looked for a magicial MoPar shoehorn, but alas I'll be doing this a dozen times before Im through.
Todays problem was how to run the duct to the two far vents on the driver's side of the car. I dont have room for two pieces of hose, so I built a plenum which makes the 90* turn, and I will tee the line at the nearest vent. I also got the passenger/glovebox vent installed.
I may still have a space conflict with the CD player but the HVAC unit is still "swinging" so that may not be much of a factor.
Andrew
I went on Ebay and looked for a magicial MoPar shoehorn, but alas I'll be doing this a dozen times before Im through.
Todays problem was how to run the duct to the two far vents on the driver's side of the car. I dont have room for two pieces of hose, so I built a plenum which makes the 90* turn, and I will tee the line at the nearest vent. I also got the passenger/glovebox vent installed.
I may still have a space conflict with the CD player but the HVAC unit is still "swinging" so that may not be much of a factor.
Andrew
67 prostreet gt
Well-Known Member
Ok if it ends up being that this don't work out with Ryan go ahead shout it louder if my car were still together I'd let ya drive it to show u wat kind of monster Ryan built that 526 is built as he would do it all I did was tell him to make it run on pump gas and I have him the block intake and cylinder heads everything else he speced out
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blue missile
Well-Known Member
Viper21700
Well-Known Member
Yeah... no grounding issues there ROFLMAO... good lord man lol. Love it!
at 4 watts you will be ok.. I didn't know if you had your internals peaked or not (from what the guru says, you can get the internals on those galaxy radios up to around 30-40 watts with very little tweaking)...
That's it, Im bring you my barracuda to do my wiring hahahaha. Previous owner left a birds nest of nastiness under the hood and dashboard. I swear I jerked about 50 to 60 ft of excess wiring, dead end wiring, and chop shop grade electrical out from under the dash when I did my radio install, and didn't even have to touch the factory wiring harness to do it! looks like the PO had all sorts of weird stuff wired up at one point in time. Cant wait to see your car done and on the road!
at 4 watts you will be ok.. I didn't know if you had your internals peaked or not (from what the guru says, you can get the internals on those galaxy radios up to around 30-40 watts with very little tweaking)...
That's it, Im bring you my barracuda to do my wiring hahahaha. Previous owner left a birds nest of nastiness under the hood and dashboard. I swear I jerked about 50 to 60 ft of excess wiring, dead end wiring, and chop shop grade electrical out from under the dash when I did my radio install, and didn't even have to touch the factory wiring harness to do it! looks like the PO had all sorts of weird stuff wired up at one point in time. Cant wait to see your car done and on the road!
blue missile
Well-Known Member
Yeah it was tweaked, which is why the low SWR is crucial. I have yet to walk around the car with a field strength meter, so I dont know where they tweaked it to.
Andrew
Andrew
blue missile
Well-Known Member
getting ready for another round of hose & fittings therapy. Here is the new doodad. It has a magnetic business card on the bottom and holds assembly oil and anti-seize along with a few Q-tips. Just a few cpvc fittings and some superglue to a piece of fiberglass stock.
Andrew
Andrew
blue missile
Well-Known Member
Another day another plenum. The hanging strap was in the way of the passengers vertical vent in the dash face's outlet at the unit. So a new plenum with an outlet that fixes that.
Andrew
Andrew
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