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Do the intake valves on the SM heads come with any sort of back cut? Could that be a worthwhile modification??
 
mopowers said:
Why would that make you feel stupid?? That's smart and VERY cheap for some valuable peace of mind in my opinion.
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I could have took them apart and inspected them.. checked for leaks...
Common sense...
I'll check my next set and run um ...
 
lead69 said:
Just curious if you have been to Archie's before?, at the very least I'm guessing he won't like the valve job.
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Yeah, I'm familiar with Archie. He did the work on both of my slants. I have no illusions what he will have to say about SM anything.

If you know a good alternative I'm all ears...
 
halfafish said:
Yeah, I'm familiar with Archie. He did the work on both of my slants. I have no illusions what he will have to say about SM anything.

If you know a good alternative I'm all ears...
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Archie is top notch, and as you probably figured out already he's an excellent machinist. I don't mean to imply the heads are junk but in my opinion if you are taking them to him for approval it's a bit of a loaded deal since I would call him a higher end performance shop. The valve job is seriously inferior for a performance application, and I'm sure he would want to see some pac springs or similar from a durability standpoint. I actually would agree with J par on this one and say if you are building something that you feel those heads would be fine for then check them yourself (or get a friend to help) and roll, otherwise I would have bought them bare and had them built. If you are looking for other opinions on machine shops feel free to pm me, my friends and I have spent money multiple times at all of them lol.
 
halfafish said:
Yeah, I'm familiar with Archie. He did the work on both of my slants. I have no illusions what he will have to say about SM anything.

If you know a good alternative I'm all ears...
Click to expand...

Its hard to beat Archie. You never have to guess what he’s thinking. I have the utmost respect for the guy.
 
To add to this discussion on Speedmaster valve job although I’m new to having this seat machine it makes things tricky. I already messed up a seat trying to fix their valve job and stick with a 2.02 valve and had to jump to a 2.055 valve to use the cutter I want to. Their angles are so big and the throat diameter is already on the large size for a 2.02 valve. I may set up the cutter differently and try one more on the next set I know I’m going with a 2.055 valve anyway but I think I’ll be forced to go about it with a different cutter. Although I can get a very nice set of heads with a 2.08 valve a 2.055 valve is about the prefect size for both customer budget and the work involved for the person hand porting a set of heads.
 
lead69 said:
Archie is top notch, and as you probably figured out already he's an excellent machinist. I don't mean to imply the heads are junk but in my opinion if you are taking them to him for approval it's a bit of a loaded deal since I would call him a higher end performance shop. The valve job is seriously inferior for a performance application, and I'm sure he would want to see some pac springs or similar from a durability standpoint. I actually would agree with J par on this one and say if you are building something that you feel those heads would be fine for then check them yourself (or get a friend to help) and roll, otherwise I would have bought them bare and had them built. If you are looking for other opinions on machine shops feel free to pm me, my friends and I have spent money multiple times at all of them lol.
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He has a bare set as well so both options you gave are open...
 
pittsburghracer said:
To add to this discussion on Speedmaster valve job although I’m new to having this seat machine it makes things tricky. I already messed up a seat trying to fix their valve job and stick with a 2.02 valve and had to jump to a 2.055 valve to use the cutter I want to. Their angles are so big and the throat diameter is already on the large size for a 2.02 valve. I may set up the cutter differently and try one more on the next set I know I’m going with a 2.055 valve anyway but I think I’ll be forced to go about it with a different cutter. Although I can get a very nice set of heads with a 2.08 valve a 2.055 valve is about the prefect size for both customer budget and the work involved for the person hand porting a set of heads.
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LOL…welcome to the world of unscrewing junk. And it’s not just SM that comes with a garbage valve job. Most of them do.

Blown out bowls. Mile wide angles. Zero top cuts. It’s goes on and on.

You MIGHT be able to squeeze a 2.02 and a 50 degree seat in there and save it, but most of the time you just jam a bigger valve in there and send it.
 
lead69 said:
Archie is top notch, and as you probably figured out already he's an excellent machinist. I don't mean to imply the heads are junk but in my opinion if you are taking them to him for approval it's a bit of a loaded deal since I would call him a higher end performance shop. The valve job is seriously inferior for a performance application, and I'm sure he would want to see some pac springs or similar from a durability standpoint. I actually would agree with J par on this one and say if you are building something that you feel those heads would be fine for then check them yourself (or get a friend to help) and roll, otherwise I would have bought them bare and had them built. If you are looking for other opinions on machine shops feel free to pm me, my friends and I have spent money multiple times at all of them lol.
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Agreed, Archie does excellent work. The loaded heads are for a mildly warmed up 318 (@318willrun, ya gotcher ears on?) that will go in an early A. For that, I suspect you're right - give them an inspection and if they look decent run them. The bare heads are going on the 340 in the Dart, and they will be built when the time comes.
 
Rat Bastid said:
LOL…welcome to the world of unscrewing junk. And it’s not just SM that comes with a garbage valve job. Most of them do.

Blown out bowls. Mile wide angles. Zero top cuts. It’s goes on and on.

You MIGHT be able to squeeze a 2.02 and a 50 degree seat in there and save it, but most of the time you just jam a bigger valve in there and send it.
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Like a said before I’m not traveling down that road. At almost 67 years old every change I make has a new learning curve. Most of the 2.02 valve guys are mostly street and are more than happy with the .200-.550 gains I can get them. Above that they pay me up front for valve upgrades and the port work cost the same for a 300cfm plus head. For the 2.02 I can still do a nice valve job. But for sure it will have bigger angles which honestly isn’t a bad deal for street, street strip guys.
 
halfafish said:
Agreed, Archie does excellent work. The loaded heads are for a mildly warmed up 318 (@318willrun, ya gotcher ears on?) that will go in an early A. For that, I suspect you're right - give them an inspection and if they look decent run them. The bare heads are going on the 340 in the Dart, and they will be built when the time comes.
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Mine may very well end up on a 318 themselves !!
 
pittsburghracer said:
Like a said before I’m not traveling down that road. At almost 67 years old every change I make has a new learning curve. Most of the 2.02 valve guys are mostly street and are more than happy with the .200-.550 gains I can get them. Above that they pay me up front for valve upgrades and the port work cost the same for a 300cfm plus head. For the 2.02 I can still do a nice valve job. But for sure it will have bigger angles which honestly isn’t a bad deal for street, street strip guys.
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I agree. A new and STEEP learning curve sometimes.
 
pittsburghracer said:
But for sure it will have bigger angles which honestly isn’t a bad deal for street, street strip guys.
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I would like to hear more elaboration on this particular statement ^^. The longer angles like the Speedmaster's come with aren't necessarily a bad thing for the Street guys?
 
318willrun said:
I would like to hear more elaboration on this particular statement ^^. The longer angles like the Speedmaster's come with aren't necessarily a bad thing for the Street guys?
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It depends on the angles mostly. And the port/valve angles. Low port heads take a much different valve job (IMO) than a raised port does.

Fo example, I never use more than 4 angles on a SBM head and the bottom cut is pretty wide. I don’t have the cutter in front of me so I can’t tell you how long it is but it’s at least .100 wide.
 
318willrun said:
I would like to hear more elaboration on this particular statement ^^. The longer angles like the Speedmaster's come with aren't necessarily a bad thing for the Street guys?
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A quick measurement on a Speedmaster head has the 45 degree seat at .089 and the 60 degree at .105 which are both wide when you think of a race seat At around .040 on a race head. So it leaves you room to hand cut a 70 degree if you have it and a 30 cutting down some of the 45 but on street only I’m not going to thin it down to race only specs. Sometimes you gotta lean more towards longevity so you Dont have to tear down your street car every couple years. But a seat angle cut that wide on the intake is bigger than the exhaust spec.
 
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