abdywgn
dismantler
the flywheel flange may be different than a 318/360. I remember looking into getting a reman unit but I think it had a thicker flywheel mounting area.
Bonneville Landspeed Racing - Let's Try a Thing.
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Tony Grossman
Member
That 241 Hemi on alcohol hitting 225 is wild and it definitely shows what these engines can do with the right setup
dartindanno
Well-Known Member
You can do it!
I have changed the car to a Charger 500 flush rear window, removed mirrors and door handles. Car is significantly lower as well. Also, to stop the encouragement of air to go under the car and to not have a massive front spoiler, I used a rear bumper off a 70 RR on the front. The frame/floor is set up to put a flat step pan under it or later a full belly pan. For gearing, I currently have 2.94 but may switch to 2.76. I am considering a nose change to bring more aero into the plan. The engineering documents from 1969 NASCAR race prep showed that blocking the grill off was a 14% reduction in drag or 77hp. That's huge.
The boost wont be for this year. Just rookie runs, licensing, etc. Ultimate goal is to just get it finished and out there........OH and pass tech
Tony Grossman
Member
Are you leaning toward the full belly pan, or just sticking with the step pan for now?
Step pan for now as that is what is legal for the class I am still looking to be in. If I pull the plug and change to Time Only to meet personal goals, then I would consider a full pan.
I believe it might be the same eight bolt flange as early Hemi engines. If running an aluminum Torqueflite or a GM trans even, Hot Heads has the appropriate adapters.
So, i am leaning towards Time Only this year instead of 150 club. Mostly due to 150 clubs limited to 6 runs, and after 2 runs at 150 you are done. You'd need to sand bag to get all 6 runs if the car is fast enough. It is a $300 cost difference. If/when I screw up, I have more chances. Also, competition licenses are granted in T/O where as 150 club does not. It doesn't count towards my log book, membership or car number either. You can lose your car number after 3 years of not racing. I got mine last year, so down 1 year already. And as you license up, let's say all the way to AA, every 3 years of no competition, you drop one license. This will also allow running thr 3 mile course vs 2.
Suede black with your dark green
Desert sun and black sounds hot!! I am thinking white on top and green sides right now. Could change every 5 minutes until paint flys..lol. I do have some charger coloring book pages to color up with color pencils.
Yeah it does because it is and I am dumb...and give bad advice.
Lol, sorry I'll think before I type next time.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
On a race car I’d give up comfort for cool *** paint job all day long and twice on Sunday (race day). But I ain’t drivin it to McDonald’s on a 110 degree summer day. That’s for sure.
True.
Now that's hilarious...
So, cool over comfort?? I am going to make you lean on the car in the stage lanes!! Lol
It's all good. Made me laugh. I was all about sun glare, etc then remembered how ungodly hot it will get. @TT5.9mag we have lunch covered, just use the hood or roof as a flat top grill and bring burgers.
Spent a little time in the garage. Got the door handles working and better ratio. Also made up the exterior door handle covers and started the patch panel for the fork lift poke. Hammered out a big dent in the passenger door while in there.
So, aero being king of the Salt, I started on a road of aero. I started making a modern Daytona/Nascar esque nose. Free horsepower. I want the CoD to be under 0.3 ideally. Here is where I got before running out of sheet goods.
Freaking cool dude, that is badass !
How the hell do you calculate that? Look into active shutter assemblies. Or mechanical in your situation.
There are formulas to figure it out, but from what Chrysler engineering docs say, the stock Charger was approximately 0.44, the Charger 500 in race trim was 0.375 and the Daytona was 0.28. Shutters? For the lower grill opening? The upper is only open as I ran out of sheet metal.
Vehicle aerodynamics
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Ya shutters. That's how modern cars work. If the cooling system does not need the air they shutter the radiator so more of the air goes around the car instead of through it. They are also smoothing up the undersides. Eliminating things like rocker pinch welds.
As this nose gets worked on, it will have more ground clearance. The height I used was just due to blocks I had readily available. I need a good way to support it. Looking at ways to make bolt on mounts from the bumper bracket. The radiator ducting will be reduced in size - especially for race times. Shutter is an interesting idea, I will keep that in mind.
So, I only had about 30 min to work on the car after work as I had to drop off my daily at a shop to work on starting issues. Anyway, I got my roof rails bent and ready to install, and I figured out how I plan to mount the nose. 1" tubing, 2 sticks parallel to each other from bumper mounting bracket to bumper mounting bracket ( farthest corners near the fenders) and several stand offs from the bumper cross member tube. I "test" rolled a bar I had to see how well I can get it to follow the side radius and it will work well. I need to size this correctly for any street driving as well. The tubes will run just above and below the radiator inlet. Can always be covered for race time. Its March, yikes. Need to get this thing done!
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