Bottom End Shocker Build

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That’s the thing with our northern neighbors. There government slams them with a crap ton of tax when stuff crosses there boarders.
 
I looked on the Promaxx site and they cost $2200 US dollars for the CNC 185 heads for a pair…so that’s $2750 Canadian plus shipping and tax …so around $3000 Canadian…
 
Would a hyd roller cam not help gain more efficient use of the head flow for lower rpm torque production?

In the dual plane vs. single plane I agree the dual is the way to go.
 
Mean416 said:
Would a hyd roller cam not help gain more efficient use of the head flow for lower rpm torque production?

In the dual plane vs. single plane I agree the dual is the way to go.
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I have zero interest in any type of retrofit roller setups rather do a solid mechanical….I don’t trust them
 
Mean416 said:
Would a hyd roller cam not help gain more efficient use of the head flow for lower rpm torque production?
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I’m looking at the cam specs and timing events to help decide if it suites rather than if it is a Hyd. or Solid which have there own Characteristics and features that you may wish to consider for their use or not.
 
I have asked all over town and still no air gap to be found…
 
67autocross said:
I have zero interest in any type of retrofit roller setups rather do a solid mechanical….I don’t trust them
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Out of curiosity, why don't you trust them? To each his own, I'm just curious.

Also since the intention is to make max low end, any consideration for offset grinding the 4" to get longer stroke? That would definitely pump up the torque.
 
Mean416 said:
Out of curiosity, why don't you trust them? To each his own, I'm just curious.

Also since the intention is to make max low end, any consideration for offset grinding the 4" to get longer stroke? That would definitely pump up the torque.
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I’m thinking that the 4 inch crank is likely even too much for the head flow I will end up at…plus it would probably just cost less to purchase a 4.25 crank if I was going that route
 
I guess I have just been stuck on this quote from you: " I want the bottom end torque of a big block and peak power at 5500rpm…"

At that rpm head flow isn't going to be a problem. At bottom end of rpm range a 4.25 will definitely be badass. I didn't know it was available off the shelf. A 4.25 stroke with a 4.060 bore will actually be a 440 :)
 
Mean416 said:
I guess I have just been stuck on this quote from you: " I want the bottom end torque of a big block and peak power at 5500rpm…"

At that rpm head flow isn't going to be a problem. At bottom end of rpm range a 4.25 will definitely be badass. I didn't know it was available off the shelf. A 4.25 stroke with a 4.060 bore will actually be a 440 :)
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Hughes 435 kit bored to 4.1 = 440

Hughes Engines
 
I would do to a bigger stroke if I didn’t already have the new 4 inch scat crank already….
 
I also acquired a complete 72' 340 minus intake for $125 from craigslist this summer. Not everyone wants to line there pockets some people just wanna keep the hobby alive and just wanna move stuff out of there way, I had it bored. .060 for $20 a hole, line bored for $150 new cam bearings for $20 and whole thing hot tanked ready for assembly for another $150. Deals are out there
 
Okay…I drove out to the head porting guys place tonight and dropped off the pro maxx heads…he has some amazing equipment including a really nice SF450 bench with a bunch of add ons…the bench has extra motors for flowing really high flowing heads…he uses David Vizards head software.
I asked him to flow the heads stock and see how they compare to the advertised numbers…
 
67autocross said:
I’ll post the price of the line bore when it gets done... but in Canada they won’t unload the block from your truck for $200…
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Few engines need a line hone much less a line bore. I line bored many engines but the guys that do my stuff today tell me if the crank is easy to turn in the block its a waste of $$$.
 
Krooser said:
Few engines need a line hone much less a line bore. I line bored many engines but the guys that do my stuff today tell me if the crank is easy to turn in the block its a waste of $$$.
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Plus it raises issues of having a sloppier timing chain. I’ve had one engine line bored and that was a big block I put 440source main caps on. Zero blocks line honed except probably technically the same block.
 
Well the block came with no caps so I'm assuming with aftermarket caps and studs I'm figuring a line bore into the build...the last few small blocks I have used the magnum timing chain tensioners setups with good results
 
67autocross said:
Well the block came with no caps so I'm assuming with aftermarket caps and studs I'm figuring a line bore into the build...the last few small blocks I have used the magnum timing chain tensioners setups with good results
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Yep new caps you are thinking right. I’ve never used the tensioners and never felt the need to do so and I’ve heard of issues with them. I can’t afford issues so I invest in good gears and chains. I have 3-4 (360) blocks that I bought off a younger guy that though it was a good idea to throw all the main caps in a box, the same box. That will take me a long weekend probably getting them all matched up. I have a name for guys like that.
 
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