Breaking Point On A 440 Block

-
Use a mega block they are out there for decent prices . I just picked up two. Inter locking mains thick bores and have hemi and standard mound bosses for use with stage V hemi heads.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0918.jpg
    50 KB · Views: 207
  • Hemi[1].jpg
    71.2 KB · Views: 207
RustyRatRod said:
Womanator is a prime example of what you can do with a stock block. His stuff is fast. Whenever I see people arguing about what stock blocks will take, Womanator always pops into my head. I don't know how many runs he has on all his stuff combined, but it's a lot. All with stock blocks I believe. I'm not experienced first hand, but from all I've read and seen, the stock blocks are strong. You thought about adding a girdle? I would do that.....that's about all you can do now and run it till it splits in two. It might surprise you.

You think maybe the stroker will get you into the 13s? lol
Click to expand...

I have over 300 pass's on the rotating assembly.
Freshened up every 100 pass'.
Haven't run it this year.
Last pass out it ran 9.02.
That's after more head work and a aggressive roller cam.
2910 lb car with me in it should be about 760 rear wheel hp.
i would try and go faster but if I go under 9.00 I would have to go to Super Pro.
Sometimes the junk works.



The laundry


New wing.


Not trying to hijack the post.
 
womanator said:
I have over 300 pass's on the rotating assembly.
Freshened up every 100 pass'.
Haven't run it this year.
Last pass out it ran 9.02.
That's after more head work and a aggressive roller cam.
2910 lb car with me in it should be about 760 rear wheel hp.
i would try and go faster but if I go under 9.00 I would have to go to Super Pro.
Sometimes the junk works.



The laundry


New wing.


Not trying to hijack the post.
Click to expand...

not hijacking! thats good info. but there is now way in hell im opening it up every 100 passes. this is going in a "street" car that will be tracked as often as i can lol...
 
The only street miles this car has was 1 run down the gut in Salem for money.
 
I knew you'd come around sooner or later. Thanks. Your stuff is badass.
 
805moparkid said:
i know the cam is the slow point and that was my plan for now. i used a small cam as not to kill my self till i learned to use that power, then go to a roller.

and i know all about the world/mp blocks... the cast iron ones we used on our hemi's have been a nightmare, but now were running the aluminum ones without issue
Click to expand...

Don't .... WTF, I just bought one of those blocks. What was the issues that you had so I can check for them. I plan to go big right from the get go on mine.
 
airwoofer said:
Don't .... WTF, I just bought one of those blocks. What was the issues that you had so I can check for them. I plan to go big right from the get go on mine.
Click to expand...

well...

1. before you do anything make sure to sonic check the bores, all of them...:wack:
2. make sure the water ports at the front are clear and dont have sand plugs in them:eek:ops:
3. Use the 440 Updated Rear Main Seal Cap:D
4. Have The Block Blueprinted, they are all over the place
5. Pressure test the water side, we had one have a hole from the water jacket to the main oil galley.:banghead:
6. pull the oil feed restricters out of the deck surface and make sure there is a hole in them...:violent1:

all i can tell you is we will only be using the aluminum ones from now on as after a 50% fail rate we gave up, still trying to get a warranty block from MOPAR, two years later
 
airwoofer said:
Don't .... WTF, I just bought one of those blocks. What was the issues that you had so I can check for them. I plan to go big right from the get go on mine.
Click to expand...

you have to remember im 23 this year and the baddest car ive driven is my slant dart lol, might be a 13 second car but thats nothing compared to this beast... want to learn the car first...
 
MP doesn't make the blocks anymore. I was told by the sales guy at Indy that they are trying to get the price to have them machined down by $75.

I had Indy bore my block to 4.500, so yes we will sonic the bores. I am hoping the rest of the machine work is OK as is because there isn't a good machine shop around here with good machines. Just what looks like worn out WW2 leftover stuff.

Thanks for the heads up.
 
I have thought about this also before I built my stroker motor. In the end I went with a stock 77' 440 block. It is bored .055" and has a 4.15" stroke. This is a street motor that gets driven everywhere on pump gas. It was Dynoed at 750hp with a small 950hp Holley carb and 773 with a tunnel ram. We spun it to 7000 rpm on the Dyno for 59 Dyno pulls and is now in the car with 1000 street miles. This motor has stock main caps with Hughes main girdle. So far so good.
 
airwoofer said:
MP doesn't make the blocks anymore. I was told by the sales guy at Indy that they are trying to get the price to have them machined down by $75.

I had Indy bore my block to 4.500, so yes we will sonic the bores. I am hoping the rest of the machine work is OK as is because there isn't a good machine shop around here with good machines. Just what looks like worn out WW2 leftover stuff.

Thanks for the heads up.
Click to expand...

yea i know world makes when for MP...

440dartsport said:
I have thought about this also before I built my stroker motor. In the end I went with a stock 77' 440 block. It is bored .055" and has a 4.15" stroke. This is a street motor that gets driven everywhere on pump gas. It was Dynoed at 750hp with a small 950hp Holley carb and 773 with a tunnel ram. We spun it to 7000 rpm on the Dyno for 59 Dyno pulls and is now in the car with 1000 street miles. This motor has stock main caps with Hughes main girdle. So far so good.
Click to expand...

wow! thats awesome!
 
I have run a stock block w/o a girdle with good success. always studded.
even stroked with 14.5 to 1 compression. now that being said I would definitely put
a girdle on anything running that high of compression again. a 1/3 to 1/2 fill isn't a bad idea either in my opinion.
 
vitamindart said:
I have run a stock block w/o a girdle with good success. always studded.
even stroked with 14.5 to 1 compression. now that being said I would definitely put
a girdle on anything running that high of compression again. a 1/3 to 1/2 fill isn't a bad idea either in my opinion.
Click to expand...

yea thats a good idea to...
 
BCR makes an excellent girdle/aluminium cap kit that looks ideal for your setup.
 
I looked hard at that bcr kit and I agree that it looks like a great setup but by time you pay $800 for that and the machine work to make it fit then You are well into an aftermarket block.
 
True but most girdles are only $300. And the bcr kit needs to have the caps machined and fitted to the block registers and then milled down to the block skirt height.
 
440dartsport said:
True but most girdles are only $300. And the bcr kit needs to have the caps machined and fitted to the block registers and then milled down to the block skirt height.
Click to expand...


... which is the only way to make a girdle that truly works...
That's also why I'm no fan opf girdles. By the time you buy a good girdle, then fit and install it, plus do all the prep for a performance engine build - you are getting within $1000-1200 of a much better block that isn't maxed out...
 
moper said:
... which is the only way to make a girdle that truly works...
That's also why I'm no fan opf girdles. By the time you buy a good girdle, then fit and install it, plus do all the prep for a performance engine build - you are getting within $1000-1200 of a much better block that isn't maxed out...
Click to expand...

true but if your not going to build anymore out of the motor then why go thru all the blue print machining on top of that...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top