budget dana 60

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New update : couldn't get the ring gear set on my own :wack: don't have the correct tools. So, add a nother $100 and done - I hope ! Of course I could buy one of those expensive covers but I'm running out of $$ for this winters push. I'll be glad to have the car up and running before first race day in April.
 
Well since the parts were so clear and an easy drop in job he only charged me $80. So with a nother $20 I'll buy oil and some u-joint straps and it will be $1200 all in - all done ! :violent2:
so is the $1000+ savings worth it over just calling and have one sent to your front door ?!??
Only YOUR wallet can answer that question. My wallet is still mad at me for not doing it the first time ! :banghead: Oh ya , add $5 for a rattlecan of black paint. More stuff!
View attachment 20160202_181429.jpg
 
Love the trials and tribulations of a good "hot rod" build. thanks for sharing! We pushed the "easy" button on our Duster and ordered a S60 from Dr. Diff. One thing I do enjoy about it is the lack of side shims as it uses the adjusters similar to the 8.75 rear.... so the only real pita is setting pinion depth.
 
Well there's (as Columo would say) "just one more question" ?
Getting the drive line shortened ? I dropped mine off at the local drine line shop and should have it back in a couple of days. I should include this in the total cost as I don't like the idea of hidden costs. It's not like I didn't see this coming, but how was to really know til the tranny and rearend were back in, and how much? Keep in mind that my cost will be labor only as the u-joints and drive line are in like new condition with the local drive line shops sticker still like new on it.
 
Not sure what kind of power or times your car runs, but you should have bought Strange components for the 8 3/4, and it would likely still be going.

I think I have $1,000 in the rear end in my Dart. Has a 4.86 pro gear, 35 spline Pro Race axles, and a Strange spool. That includes the bearings and such. Leave at 3400rpm on a transbrake, and 60 fts mid 1.40's. No problems in two seasons.

I know the Dana is stronger. I tell people that all of the time. Its also heavier and takes a little more to turn than the 8 3/4, but maybe your car is too much for a well built 8 3/4.

Dana's are cool to have in a car, and you cant hardly tear one up. I just never have broken an 8 3/4 in anything, so I stick with them.


Good luck with the Dana. You sure got a good deal.
 
I dont know. His car is pretty stout and with a 4 speed. The 8 3/4 would be borderline at best, IMO. I think he did the right thing.
 
I think Dana 60's are rated as the most efficient rear end due pinion location in relationship to the ring gear. There are some articles directly comparing the GM 12 bolt to 9" outlining a 2-3% efficiency gain in favor of the 12 bolt. Lower pinion location strengthens the contact pattern, but in turn sacrifices efficiency which is typical of the drop out carrier models. I like the Dana 60 route, built one for my wife's Duster because it was cheaper than finding an 8 3/4. I like the pinion shim setup in the Danas better than GM's 12 bolt design even with a solid sleeve in place of the crush sleeve.
 
tnts72 said:
I think Dana 60's are rated as the most efficient rear end due pinion location in relationship to the ring gear. There are some articles directly comparing the GM 12 bolt to 9" outlining a 2-3% efficiency gain in favor of the 12 bolt. Lower pinion location strengthens the contact pattern, but in turn sacrifices efficiency which is typical of the drop out carrier models. I like the Dana 60 route, built one for my wife's Duster because it was cheaper than finding an 8 3/4. I like the pinion shim setup in the Danas better than GM's 12 bolt design even with a solid sleeve in place of the crush sleeve.
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Agreed, the dana absolutely was cheaper especially for what you get. I think I was into my 8 3/4 a little over 1k*and it lasted ? 3-4 months? And this ain't gonna help matters. ...
View attachment 20160302_161650.jpg
 
Dana 60s are a dime a dozen if you don't care about gettin a truck model. If you can narrow and weld ends on and relocate the spring perches yourself, you can save a lot of money converting them.
 
tnts72 said:
I think Dana 60's are rated as the most efficient rear end due pinion location in relationship to the ring gear. There are some articles directly comparing the GM 12 bolt to 9" outlining a 2-3% efficiency gain in favor of the 12 bolt. Lower pinion location strengthens the contact pattern, but in turn sacrifices efficiency which is typical of the drop out carrier models. I like the Dana 60 route, built one for my wife's Duster because it was cheaper than finding an 8 3/4. I like the pinion shim setup in the Danas better than GM's 12 bolt design even with a solid sleeve in place of the crush sleeve.
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Plus once you brace an 8 3/4 and add beefier axles you narrow the gap in weight difference to just over 20 pounds. The only time I would want an 8 3/4 is in a near-stock driver type car, and even then I'm watching CL for a locker Dana 60 core to build for it.

The hypoid offset is actually worse with a 12 bolt (1.50) than a Dana 60 (1.125), but IMO it makes up for it with lighter rotating assembly. In this test the Dana 60 almost makes the same wheel hp as the 12 bolt even thought it's a much beefier axle.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/ccrp-0806-chevy-chevelle-rear-axle-swap/
 
RustyRatRod said:
Dana 60s are a dime a dozen if you don't care about gettin a truck model. If you can narrow and weld ends on and relocate the spring perches yourself, you can save a lot of money converting them.
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Or, make money converting them ? :dontknow:
 
I had the housing work done by a local shop and it cost me $110 for shortening the housing, welding the axle tubes to the center section, new - relocated perches and redrilling the new drums for the 5 on 4.5 pattern. Rear brakes are 11x1-3/4" I think, drums had the 5 on 5 pattern. That was the setup off that 66 F100. I ordered all new brake stuff from RockAuto. Nice to build one and not have to be concerned about it, knowing it will handle whatever you can throw at it. "Overkill" = peace of mind.
 
j par said:
Or, make money converting them ? :dontknow:
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If I find another powerlok complete unit for good price I will most certainly buy it and put it on the market as a made to order piece. Give me the dimensions you want and a couple weeks.
 
tnts72 said:
I had the housing work done by a local shop and it cost me $110 for shortening the housing, welding the axle tubes to the center section, new - relocated perches and redrilling the new drums for the 5 on 4.5 pattern. Rear brakes are 11x1-3/4" I think, drums had the 5 on 5 pattern. That was the setup off that 66 F100. I ordered all new brake stuff from RockAuto. Nice to build one and not have to be concerned about it, knowing it will handle whatever you can throw at it. "Overkill" = peace of mind.
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That is a lot for $110.
 
Didn't know the car was a 4-speed.

That does change the tune just a little. Dana was probably a good move.
 
j par said:
That is a lot for $110.
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This is the second housing I have had them do for me - first 12 bolt went in my race car and now this one for the Duster. I also ordered my Moser axles through him so he made a little there. $465 for 35 spline axles and bearings didn't seem terrible to me. Pretty sure I put all that in my build thread. Long and short of it - plan on building any kind of performance capable rearend better plan on spending around 1K. Sure you can go cheaper and do a junk yard swap, but at the end of the day if you really plan on beating on one - spend the money 1 time and not worry about it again. These guys mail ordering S60's for thousands of dollars blows my mind
 
I have always gone the truck Dana route. 20 years ago I cleaned out a local salvage
yard of every Dana he had with a power loc. I spent most of the day in the dirt pulling covers.
The good I Got them for 75. each.
The bad they had many different spline side gears in them and none of the clutches
were in good shape. So that upped the price to get them usable as 35 spline.
The good thing about the S60 is it has the snubber mount if you need it and uses spanners
to adjust the carrier.
Hard to beat going with the truck Dana from a dollars spent perspective.
 
Driveline shop called me this morning and I just got home from picking it up $102.
 
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