Cable operated clutch ??

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68383GTS

68383GTS

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Has anyone here used a cable operated clutch on an A body?How well does it work?Where can I buy one?,I do not see them on the Summit racing site. I want to run a 383,4 speed in a 71 Duster with headman headers and NO Z bar..

Thank You,Jim
 
Cable? Run a hydro. I dont think you will like a cable. Small clutch cylinder on firewall with bracket to shock tower and slave cylinder on trans. Both for my mazda were 8 a piece on rockauto. Youll heed to fab a pushrod off yoyr clutch pedal.
 
The Pinto clutch cable is a very popular swap piece. Cheap too.
 
So I assume a standard clutch.And the cable goes from the clutch fork to a cable bracket or something?
 
Maybe things have changed. All I can remember "from back then" about factory cable clutches is one hell of a lot of complaining, and this, generally, was with fairly light clutches.
 
hmmm maybe I should go with the 318 I have.The 383 with 4 speed and headers maybe be too much of a pain.I could maybe run manifolds but then I would need to detune the 383 abit.
 
Every Fox body mustang ever made with a manual transmission had a cable. I think if there was something wrong with a cable operated clutch, we'd know it.
 
I would like to learn more about a cable operated clutch conversion.How to and what parts needed.Maybe a fox body cable could be used...
 
Fox body use some sort of ratchet system on the clutch petal to adjust the slack, I know my buddy has had alot of issues with his stock set up.
 
If your slick with fabing, anything is possible.
You might wind up buying a custom length cable. Do your reasearch.
I stole this pic from the hamb, different application, buy may give an idea.
 

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sireland67 said:
Fox body use some sort of ratchet system on the clutch petal to adjust the slack, I know my buddy has had alot of issues with his stock set up.
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That's because everybody upgrades the clutch and expects the stock quadrant to hold up. It won't. That's why aftermarket quadrants are available a dime a dozen. It's a good design. Like anything else, when you upgrade, you need to upgrade the whole system.
 
I tried this on an e body some years back with Hayes 3200 lb pressure plate and all it did was stretch the cable , go hydraulic or as a previous poster said the z bar works fine
 
68383GTS said:
I would like to learn more about a cable operated clutch conversion.How to and what parts needed.Maybe a fox body cable could be used...
Click to expand...

I like the Pinto/Bobcat cable. That's what I am using in my Bobcat. It was an automatic car, but I have swapped for manual pedals since I am going with a T5. The Pinto cable would be really easy to adapt, because the transmission end is threaded with a big nut on the end. That's how it adjusts. All that's needed to fab it up on the transmission end is a simple bracket made out of either some really thick sheet metal or if you want to go bombproof, 3/16 steel. Probably like 1.5" wide and 3" long with a hole on one end to attach to a bellhousing bolt and the other end a hole for the cable to slide through. You'll need a large thick washer welded onto the clutch fork with a slot cut in it so you can slide the cable through. Make sure the washer has a hole small enough not to let the ball end on the cable slip through. If the center hole in the washer is too big, just get a smaller washer with a smaller hole and weld into the bigger washer with a corresponding slot cut in to match the big one. I may even end up converting the rat truck to a cable clutch. I haven't decided yet.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Every Fox body mustang ever made with a manual transmission had a cable. I think if there was something wrong with a cable operated clutch, we'd know it.
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We do know it. :)
There isn't a chance in hell I would ever use a cable after seeing what they can do.
That thing snaps and you are DONE right then and there.
Hydro is the way to go if mechanical isn't possible. (IMO)
 
brewer's performance has a hydraulic clutch retrofit kit

bring your american express

HYD HYDRAULIC SLAVE CLUTCH ACTUATING KIT
Details

Hydraulic slave clutch actuating kit mounts between the side cover on any A833 tranmission and the stock clutch fork, pulling the clutch fork back when pedal is pushed. Recommended only when stock, mechanical linkage cannot be used because of clearance issues with exhaust system or applications where motor/bellhousing are not in the stock location. Kit includes transmission bracket/pivot assembly, slave cylinder, master cylinder with resovoirs, hoses and instructions. Some engineering required to mount master cylinder through the firewall or fabrication of a bracket to mount off of the pedal assembly frame.
Price: $399.95
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TTi's but I think my issue may have been I used a lakewood bellhouse.No I have headman headers..Elite series if I remember right.
 
TrailBeast said:
We do know it. :)
There isn't a chance in hell I would ever use a cable after seeing what they can do.
That thing snaps and you are DONE right then and there.
Hydro is the way to go if mechanical isn't possible. (IMO)
Click to expand...

What do you mean? Are you actually sayin you're such a sissy that you've never driven a manual transmission car without ever touching the clutch pedal? Say it ain't so.
 
RustyRatRod said:
What do you mean? Are you actually sayin you're such a sissy that you've never driven a manual transmission car without ever touching the clutch pedal? Say it ain't so.
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I've driven about every type of system out there but when a clutch cable lug snaps off the end of the cable up under the dash you have to admit it's a royal PIA to get another one and swap it out.
On top of that, they give zero warning before the go.
You start pushing the clutch like every other time you did and POP, that pedal slams to the floor and that's that.
No warning whatsoever.

So are you saying you can only push a clutch that it such a sissy that a cable is fine for it? :D
 

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I've had way more trouble with hydraulic clutch mechanisms than any other type. Once had to drive my Jeep almost 400 miles with no clutch pedal to get back home from a hunting trip.
 
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