Cam plate question?

-
If anything is going to over run...its the cam gear... the crank is a free spinning mfkr...the cam gear can and does 'buy grace of chain slack' gets ahead and behind of the crank timing/tdc.... that's why you see the timing marks bouncing around, because the cam that spins the distributor is bouncing between the chain slack. Hence a cam regards as the chain breaks in..or stretches.. a lot of people will tell 2 degree of cam advance you cant really feel...cause it's gone in a 1000 miles or so with chain stretch.

Go check a gear drive motor and see how more solid the mark 'closely timed' is in the strobe flash.
 
Granted a weak advance spring can cause some bounce too, but not like a wasted chain set...even worse on stockers with wimpy springs.

I like the tensioners, just wish it was a spring loaded 'with a tooth lock nut adjuster' gear instead of a teflon guide or whatever it's made out of.
 
yr will agree with u on the gear drive, so will i
you had to get a new one?timing cover?
takes a worn chain to wear through your cover






just kidding but usually you refer back to the last thing you mentioned
 
318willrun said:
LOL... All other cases, factory set up is fine... (has any FABO members put over 400k on their classic mopar???) People over think these things all the time.
Click to expand...

I'm working on it. 300K + so far, still runs like new. 67 Barracuda, 273 Commando, Auto, 3.23 gears. The barracuda has over 400K on it, 300K is just that 273.
 
Last edited:
Oldmanmopar said:
If there is slack on the tensioner side It has to come from chain stretch. If the chain is loose That means the pull side has to be longer. If it is longer that means there is a change in timing. Take the tensioner off and push one side then the other. You will see the cam sprocket move. Movement is timing change. It's a no brainer if you really think about it. I am only stating what I see after seeing many motors done at our shop.
Click to expand...

Yeah, its come from chain stretch, not the tensioner... you ever install a chain that had no slack in it on either side installed? Maybe one that you could buy .010 under or whatever your main bearing bore bar took out. The point I was making was that if you keep the slack side (any slack, even the smallest new slack and the slack that seems to set in after 5K) in check, you will stabilize the cam timing, even if it is retarted slightly. The fact that the timing set wears is a given, but the variance in cam timing while revving it as your looking at the timing light is a product of the slop in the chain. under load the timing is going to be stable, retarded as allowed with a stretched chain, but it will be a constant retard unless you get off the gas then you'll see the whip and the variance happens. Look at the sloppy chain that @toolmanmike is showing off. He's pushing on the chain on one side and the cog aint moving, now push real hard and the cam cog will move but only until the tension side locks out, then he can wiggle that slack side all he wants and the cam cog aint gonna move any more. Turn the cam the other direction and it will turn until the slack side locks out...there is your variance you'll see on your timing gun. Now put the tensioner with its stiff spring on and as it takes up the slack side, it also takes up the 'backlash' of the cam so your timing gun wont see it any more (or very little). Its not there to prevent the cam from stretching, it's there to take up the slack on the 'coast' side from a fact of life, chain stretch (or cog wear...whatever you believe is the case). Billet cogs tend to wear slower..double rollers...?
 
"Preferred method of cam plate" is what works for you.
20200706_201139.jpg

@Wyrmrider left galley plug (behind Milodon dual drilled plate) has a small hole drilled for oil squirter
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I've found them all ways, hole, no hole, no plate and a hole..
I like to run the bolt with the hole and a plate or make one with a drill.
Make sure to use a good timing set. Dont use the edelbrock cast gear crap set for cheap.99 ..get a 90-120 set billet gears and good Japanese or USA chain. Just skip the china/Taiwan chain sets and cast gears that have the s402 on the cam gear.
Click to expand...
Well that's the set that came said it was oem replacement cloyes c3028 . Hmm if its that bad I guess I'll have to see what the local parts stores may or may not have . I gotta have this in the car and running by Thursday
20200706_222048.jpg
 
Does that little hole actually drip any more oil than what comes out of the front cam bearing journal under pressure?
 
66fs said:
Yes
Click to expand...
I agree, all that oil around the lifter banks streams toward the front and some, a lot or not, through the hole upon every deceleration, brake etc...and drip lubes the chain.

Also the oil in the pan sloshing forward into the crank gear n chain and gets dragged up by the chain.
 
pishta said:
"Preferred method of cam plate" is what works for you.
View attachment 1715557370
@Wyrmrider left galley plug (behind Milodon dual drilled plate) has a small hole drilled for oil squirter
Click to expand...


Holy crap...I’ve never seen that GD with those big holes half covering the oil gallery. Weird.

That is not only the best cam retention method, it’s the most accurate timing system.
 
Well this is annoying the comp magnum timing set I picked up from o'riley today it the same set as the cloyes set I already had wtf ?
20200708_124033.jpg
 
Cloyes billet 9 key bottom gear. Make sure you get billet. They also sell offset keys for the cam to go less degrees if needed.

DSCN0105.JPG


DSCN0087.JPG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top