Cam specs

-
74dart

74dart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2010
Messages
261
Reaction score
1
Location
Colville
Well I have a cam here i'll be putting into my engine im building, Im not extremely knowledgeable on cams yet, anything you can tell me about cams in general would be great. Thank you everyone, well I have a new cam here, I would like to know how you think it will run in a .060 over 318 with rebuilt heads and maybe you could explain what the numbers all mean? Anything would be helpful.

here are the numbers.

Cam lift: Int- .281 Exh-.296
Valve Lift: Int-.422 Exh-.444
Lobe CTR: Int-108 Exh-116
Lash HOT: Int-HYD Exh-HYD

SAE Duration: Int-278 Exh-288

SAE Timing
BTC 26
ABC 72
BBC 75
ATC 33


.050 Duration: Int-204 Exh- 214

.050 Timing
BTC -6
ABC 30
BBC 43
ATC -9

Thanks everyone!
 
It'll run like a stock cam if not mello -er.


Cam lift: Int- .281 Exh-.296 .
This is the cams lift, on the cam, the amount of rise off the base circle
Valve Lift: Int-.422 Exh-.444 . actual intended valve lift in theroy

(.281 X 1.5 = .421.5 rounded off to 422)

Lobe CTR: Int-108 Exh-116
When the center of the lobe is at max lift, this is the degrees on the wheel where it should be at

Lash HOT: Int-HYD Exh-HYD
Lash is the amount of play the rocker arm has on top of the valve, being a Hyd. theres none.

SAE Duration: Int-278 Exh-288

This is called "Advertised duration"

SAE Timing
BTC 26
ABC 72
BBC 75
ATC 33
These are the timing events of the valves being open or closed in degrees according t the timing wheel/damper

.050 Duration: Int-204 Exh- 214 The industry standard amount of lift at a total rise of .050 in order to measure a cam of any type or maker. This is a level playing feild on which to judge

.050 Timing
BTC -6
ABC 30
BBC 43
ATC -9

these are the timing markls at the above description, .050 valve rise.
 
So what do you recommend for a mild or better torquer cam? I really have been getting screwed over lately, dang it.
 
(I'm about to hit the hay and sleep, I'm wiped)

To suggest a cam, I'd/we need more info.

What is your

tire size and gear ratio
automatic trans? 904 or 727
What exactly has been done to the engine? Tell me/us as much as you can.

I'll be back tomorrow and join in on the answers. Good night, it's been a real long on for me.
 
Im using 195/75/r14s for tires, a 7 1/4 rear end
904 transmission
The 71 318 engine has been bored out .060 over, a crank is in it that has been milled 10/10
Im probably putting a quadrajet carb on it, L heads that have been rebuilt are being put on it. Im not going to be doing any racing in the car but I want it to be fast, sound nice and everything a hot rodding 17 year old needs. I just have had to keep sending parts back because they have been, well not what I was told. I would like a nice cam that isnt going to cost me a ton, maybe I can work something out with one of the guys on here to trade or something. I trust the opinions of all the guys on here. Ive been trying to build a engine to put in my car for 2 months, Ive been given cracked blocks and incorrect boring, I just want a powerful cam in my engine that wont be too powerful and blow a gasket or anything like that.

Thanks Rumble, and everyone else.
 
I am wondering when RUmble has been on here and wasn't beat.... I think the guy works harder than most, considering he is always on here at like 2am his time.....

Mild or better torque cam for a 318, in one size fits all, would be the 260/260 Isky, or if comps your thing, the 260/260 comp.

Nice, smooth, torqy, good MPG, and with a 4bbl will make a nice reliable 250HP in a stock 318. Nothing is more satisfying than 18mpg 318 that has the potentcy to run in mid-high 14's in the right car.
 
idk it had an L on it haha, so I thought it was an L head...I have the numbers, I think its just a stock 318 head.
 
from 71? Probably a 675 head, good head, smooth ports, smallish chambers..... Seats aren't hardened, but good enough for a car engine.
 
TK, I have sleep issues. I catch it when I can. A few hours here, a few hours there, LOL! 5 Double shifts all week long on the overnight schedule.
Nice cam choice by the way.
 
74dart said:
Im using 195/75/r14s for tires, a 7 1/4 rear end
904 transmission
Click to expand...
Stock 904 I'll assume with a stock converter.
Do you know the rear gears. (Ratio, there could very well be a tag on the rear ends cover. One of the cover bolts hold it on the rear. Take a peak and see if theres a rag with a ratio stamped on it.) I'm not to fond of the small 7-1/4 rear size.


The 71 318 engine has been bored out .060 over, a crank is in it that has been milled 10/10
Click to expand...
We are at 328 cubes. Becomeing sizeable. Do you know what pistons were used in it? Or what there compresion height is? The ratio is a helpful item to know. If you don't, don't worry about it, we'll assume there a low compresion/stock replacement piston and error on the side of caution.
Overcamming is the biggest problem to a short stroke engine for it's given goal.



Im probably putting a quadrajet carb on it, L heads that have been rebuilt are being put on it. Im not going to be doing any racing in the car but I want it to be fast, sound nice and everything a hot rodding 17 year old needs. I just have had to keep sending parts back because they have been, well not what I was told.
Click to expand...

The QJ is an odd thing to see ontop of a old MoPar engine, but , you can get parts and tune them preety well. It's nice that Edelbrock is making them with lots-o-parts for them.

I also hear ya and feel ya on being young and getting a ton of B.S. on building. I started at 18 and remember this red tape bologna real good.


I would like a nice cam that isnt going to cost me a ton, maybe I can work something out with one of the guys on here to trade or something.
Click to expand...
Most Hyd. cams will be under $200. We'll stick with that for ease of installation and use. Rollers get pricey.



I think dodgetkboy78 made a nice choice for a cam. The biggest problems with cams is, in everybody's opinion, they feel like there cam is a great choice. While I respect that idea, theres hundreds of grinds to choose from, 50 will work, 10 work real well, 5 work great. And all the difference will be a few pounds of torque here, a few HP there, power curves moved ever so slightly up or down. It's really not worth getting crazy about IMO so long as you get it in the ball park.

Cams have a operation RPM range that they work in. As long as we can get you a cam that works with that range you operate in, the car will perform well.
 
74Dart

Tell me something about the engine.

So far we have a Qj on top.
What intake manifold?
Are you useing headers?
What size exhaust pipes?
(IMO, considering the build so far, I think 2-1/4 duals would do well. But this is subject to change as more info becomes available.)
 
Stock intake and Im using stock dual exhaust, I could get numbers if thats needed, one sec and ill get those numbers for the rear gear ratio
 
I will try and explain some more of the specs I wasn't able to add last time. I have been trying to get more knowledge to better help my self in these situations. I apologize for the intermission in between my postings. With that being said;

a 625 weber is being used as the carb on top of a dual plane intake. The heads have 2.02 valves. Cam is .281int .296 exh, dual exhaust, pipes are 1 3/4 in-2in
7 1/4 in rear end and a 904 transmission the pistons are not high performance, lower compression. mechanical fuel pump.

My problems seem to be focusing around this carb. I am not sure if the secondaries are working correctly, and sometimes when it gets to its full position on the fast idle cam while warming up it sometimes stalls when I attempt to kick it down. I read in a book that 625 may be too much for a 318(328) and the book says a more realistic number for a regular 318 is close to 550cfm. The carb had a spread bore to square bore adapter(hope this is the name) underneath it. It was in bad condition and the plates seem to move freely without it.

I have read it could be a vacuum leak or a too low of a warm idle speed. Or if it my cam not allowing it to idle at a lower rpm.

I appreciate the time to help me do some basic troubleshooting.

Thanks
 
I would run the cam you have. Its a good running cam in a mostly stock combo.
 
The 625 is fine for a carb. With the engine off, look into the carb and see if the secondary side opens when you move the throttle. You'll need to hold the top weighted velocity plate open to see if it is opening.

All of the troubles so far point to carb tuning. To low of an is speed sounds right so far . Work on the carb tune.
 
Its pretty much a generic, what they call an "RV" grind...good torque, smooth idle, nothin' special...available from many "jobbers" (Melling, Ertel, etc...)...


1 Camshaft - RV Grind
Hydraulic Flat Tappet Engine
204/214 - .420/.443 - 112 Lobe Center
 
That's actually a fantastic all around street cam. Every single cam manufacturer made the grind at one time and some still do. Why do you think that is? Cause it's a damn good grind. It's essentially the Edelbrock Performer cam. It's a damn good street grind. No, it will not idle like a stock cam, but it will be fairly smooth, pull decent vacuum and have great street manners. Properly tuned with all your other accessories, it will probably set your eyeballs back in your head on the bottom end. Just what you want on the street.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That's actually a fantastic all around street cam. Every single cam manufacturer made the grind at one time and some still do. Why do you think that is? Cause it's a damn good grind. It's essentially the Edelbrock Performer cam. It's a damn good street grind. No, it will not idle like a stock cam, but it will be fairly smooth, pull decent vacuum and have great street manners. Properly tuned with all your other accessories, it will probably set your eyeballs back in your head on the bottom end. Just what you want on the street.
Click to expand...

X2 on that! I personally would go a bit more on that lift and duration, but for all around street use, that'll get her moving nicely
 
I don't know how to check which edelbrock carb kit/tune specs I would use. Because I can't find information on "weber" numbers. The prefix is 9636, SA.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top