Camshaft timing when the sprockets are ONE tooth off from straight up.

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THAT is an excellent explanation.
Ehrenberg also uses the term "Cap Screws".
Maybe he is just being facetious there?
a lot of newer (and european) workshop manuals make reference to cap screws as well. they don't differentiate on a lot of the fasteners in general either, just kinda all encompassing. i'm sure that some of it is lost in translation.
 
Isn't that kind of slow for a 1/8 mile race?



:lol:
A 9.30 1/8th would be a mid 14 second pass in the 1/4
screws have the thread cut/rolled right up to the head, bolts have an unthreaded section between the head and the thread. so they are head 'bolts'. you never see them fully threaded as that would cost the factory more money/time.
THAT is an excellent explanation.
Ehrenberg also uses the term "Cap Screws".
Maybe he is just being facetious there?
You could distinguish screws from bolts...
screws: internally driven
bolts: externally driven
During my machinist apprenticeship, we were taught that what makes up a bolt are two nuts that are threaded onto each end of a stud and a cap screw is a screw with a fixed head on one end and they can have full threads or partial threads....like a head bolt for example. The automotive field calls things differently.
 
What a wear out.
A 9.30 1/8th would be a mid 14 second pass in the 1/4



During my machinist apprenticeship, we were taught that what makes up a bolt are two nuts that are threaded onto each end of a stud and a cap screw is a screw with a fixed head on one end and they can have full threads or partial threads....like a head bolt for example. The automotive field calls things differently.
My old Challenger ran 9.75's in the 1/8th. It wasn't fast but it was fun.

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What a wear out.

My old Challenger ran 9.75's in the 1/8th. It wasn't fast but it was fun.

View attachment 1716340841
My 66 Belvedere was the slowest car on the track one night but it was consistent and was cutting good and sometimes better than good lights. Went 7 rounds for the win....the fastest car in the brackets (only 1 bracket that night due to a poor turnout) cut the worse light he had all night and broke out to boot. His dial was 11.50 and mine was.....get this....19.66 lol. Going that slow isn't all that fun though but that night it was :lol:
 
My 66 Belvedere was the slowest car on the track on night but it was consistent and was cutting good and sometimes better than good lights. Went 7 rounds for the win....the fastest car in the brackets (only 1 bracket that night due to a poor turnout) cut the worse light he had all night and broke out to boot. His dial was 11.50 and mine was.....get this....19.66 lol. Going that slow isn't all that fun though but that night it was :lol:
I went 5 rounds one night with a bone stock 1987 5.0 Thunderbird. Skinny all season radials, and wire styled hubcaps. Lost when it spun out of the hole, I think it was dialed in around 10.9 seconds on an eighth mile track. Had a ton of fun with it, and never went further than 4 rounds with my Dart.
 
I find myself wanting to call them gears but that dang Rick Ehrenberg wrote that gears mesh with other gears, sprockets are driven by chains.
He was a stickler for Mopar specific terminology.
Spindles? Nah...the factory called them Knuckles.
Drive shaft? No....Propeller shaft.
Clutch fan? No...Thermal drive fan.
There are others.
Posi = Sure Grip.
Z-bar = Torque Shaft.
Emergency brake = Parking Brake.

Can you recall any of the others?

This is ironic…
I just remembered another one.
EVERYone I know calls them "Head Bolts".
Not him. He calls them screws because according to him, a bolt is retained by a nut, not just threads cut into a casting.
Bell housing screws?
Door hinge screws?
Intake manifold screws? Doesn't that all sound really weird?

It does sound weird!

But it is 100% technically correct. From the
Machinery's Handbook

“A bolt is an externally threaded fastener designed for insertion through holes in assembled parts, and is normally intended to be tightened or released by torquing a nut. A screw is an externally threaded fastener capable of being inserted into holes in assembled parts, of mating with a preformed internal thread or forming its own thread, and of being tightened or released by torquing the head”


Of course, Ehrenberg is also the kind of person that would boost his own ego by unnecessarily correcting people for using common terminology, even in cases where using the technical terminology is confusing and weird. He would also tell people they were putting their lives in danger riding in cars with green bearings too, and of course he never let go of the BS he posted about FMJ spindle usage in his disk brake article. Oh, sorry, FMJ upright. Oh, wait, knuckle.

But that’s Ehrenberg for you. Good thing no one here just goes around correcting people for using common terminology that everyone understands. That would be exhausting!
 
This is ironic…


It does sound weird!

But it is 100% technically correct. From the
Machinery's Handbook

“A bolt is an externally threaded fastener designed for insertion through holes in assembled parts, and is normally intended to be tightened or released by torquing a nut. A screw is an externally threaded fastener capable of being inserted into holes in assembled parts, of mating with a preformed internal thread or forming its own thread, and of being tightened or released by torquing the head”


Of course, Ehrenberg is also the kind of person that would boost his own ego by unnecessarily correcting people for using common terminology, even in cases where using the technical terminology is confusing and weird. He would also tell people they were putting their lives in danger riding in cars with green bearings too, and of course he never let go of the BS he posted about FMJ spindle usage in his disk brake article. Oh, sorry, FMJ upright. Oh, wait, knuckle.

But that’s Ehrenberg for you. Good thing no one here just goes around correcting people for using common terminology that everyone understands. That would be exhausting!
I'll admit, I do agree with some of what you wrote. It is because of R.E. that I quit calling the part a spindle and started calling it a Knuckle.
It may be contradictory for me to state how strange that I think that some terms sound or feel but hey...That is life. The knuckle/spindle issue though comes down to common sense for me. The spindle is part of the entire steering knuckle.
How about this.....Regarding the second month of the year, do you correctly pronounce it Feb-RUE-ary or Feb-Yoo-ary? The overwhelming majority of people that I have known and seen pronounce it wrong.
How about Wednesday? I've only known ONE person acknowledge the "D" in the word. Most people call it Wens-day.
I loved Rick's delivery and sense of humor. I didn't agree with everything he said or wrote...just like it is with everyone else in the world.
It isn't always a matter of boosting an ego when a correction is made. Sometimes it is a matter of someone growing tired of seeing something done wrong, like hearing an urban dweller use phrases like Know wut I'm sayin? at the end of a sentence or hearing people say they could care less that their employers don't offer French benefits or that the hot water heater suddenly quit working. Maybe it shouldn't be thought of as an insult but more of a somewhat impolite suggestion that one should try to be less ignorant of what is correct.
Sometimes it is just a matter of some specific thing that just digs at you.
I think that many of us are pretty easygoing for the most part but at some point, we feel compelled to comment.
Again, it costs nothing to IGNORE the members here that you find intolerable.
 
"The proof is in the pudding."

What? That makes no sense! Why would the proof be in the pudding?

That's because the saying is actually "The proof of the pudding is in the eating."
 
"The proof is in the pudding."

What? That makes no sense! Why would the proof be in the pudding?

That's because the saying is actually "The proof of the pudding is in the eating."
"the true value or quality of something can only be determined by experiencing it firsthand"
 
Then there's "wreckless driving" for "reckless driving." Wreckless driving would be the opposite of reckless driving.

"Breaks" for "brakes." As in "my breaks don't work." Well, that's the breaks kiddo.

"Bare" for "bear." "Grin and bear it" does not mean take off your clothes while smiling.

"Peaked" for "piqued." It "piqued my interest," not "peaked my interest." Although the latter actually does make sense.

"Crank" for "start." My car won't crank, what's wrong? Dead battery. No, it will turn over, it just won't crank.

And so forth. . . .
 
If someone accuses me of being inconsistent, I remind them that "consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds."

The saying actually is "a foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds." I leave off "foolish" when it's convenient to do so.
 
Here we go....
This is not purely hypothetical.
Years ago I had a 318 in a Duster that was a S-L-U-G ! I tried all sorts of things to improve it but it was still slow. I pulled the timing cover to find that the cam sprocket and crank sprocket did not line up at the 6:00 firing position. With the crank at 12:00, the cam sprocket was off by at least one tooth.
Here is the question.....How much cam timing is in one tooth?
I realize that you just divide the number of teeth on the sprocket by 360 but which sprocket do you do the math from?
I don't remember the amount of teeth on either sprocket. I'm also curious if the number of teeth is always the same no matter who makes the timing set. It is always a 2 to 1 ratio though since the crank sprocket is 1/2 the size of the cam sprocket.
If the cam sprocket could be rotated ONE tooth to line up to the crank sprocket, that is one thing. In theory, that is 1/2 tooth of timing at the crank, right?
This would mean that the cam sprocket could be off 1/2 of crank timing per cam sprocket with a chart as follows:
1 @ cam = 1/2 crank
2 @ cam = 1 crank
3 @ cam = 1 1/2 crank, etc.

Back to the Duster 318. This was in 2008 and the memory is a bit fuzzy. It was off the mark enough that the engine ran smooth but was gutless no matter how much spark timing was put to it. I tried different intakes, carburetors, distributors and even uncorked the exhaust. Once I put a new timing set in it, (Installed correctly) the car was great. Before, it wouldn't peel out even on light gravel over hard packed dirt.
What say you? What amount of cam timing difference do you see per tooth ?
Maybe I am over thinking this, but isn't a timing chain being off by a tooth or two going to affect cam timing by enough to cause backfiring and miserable performance?
 
The odd thing is, the engine idled great. It ran smooth but had very low power.
I know that one can retard a cam to shift the power peak later in the RPM scale but for a 318, that is a bad move because the heads on 318s don't flow well at high RPMs. This one was advanced but by far more than one would do if they had any sense.
I bought this roach as an abandoned project car in 2007. It was my first ever manual transmission Mopar. It turns out that is was originally an automatic. Yeah, the sunroof was horrible.
Here is a before and after....

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The roof repair looked decent but not 100% so I put a vinyl skin over it.
 
Quite the improvement!

Your symptoms sound just like the slant six I had that was one tooth off. Idled great, ran smooth, but had very little power. I don't know enough to say whether or not that would always be the case, but it was in the one time it happened to me.

(Back on the subject now are we? LOL)
 
Ha ha...
Yeah, I guess so. I don't mind some deviations in the topic. That is how many people talk to each other sometimes, right?
It isn't as if this is a classroom where the teacher needs to stay on topic the whole time.
 
I was 16 and not very well experienced in automotive yet when my 1968 Ford Fairlane 500's 289 cube V8 engine started to run really hot one Friday night, and it was way down on power too. I had no clue what was wrong and continued to drive it through the evening, eventually I ended up at a buddy’s house partying.
Forgot about the car until the next morning when it wouldn't start. Got a hold of my brother and he came down to check it out, told me that the timing chain had jumped. "What the hell does that mean?" I asked, and he gave me a brief explanation of what I had to do to get it running again. I had a small 3/8 drive socket set and a few wrenches, plus my buddy had a few tools, and I bought a puller for under $20 bucks, which I still have 45 years later. Between the two of us we had it running again that afternoon. Not bad for a couple of young dumbass punks.
The nylon coating had cracked to pieces and allowed the chain to slip, but as long as the engine was still hot it would restart, likely from heat in the cylinders. That was the first of many experiences with nylon coated timing chain gears for me.
 
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