Can someone help with TTI headers and a 360 ?

-
My mounts are not torqued to specs yet..that may help.

Cross fingers for tomorrow.

ian.
 
should have one in a few days after I install the 90 deg adapter on my car. Are you coming up to the Atlantic Nationals?
 
Here's a pic of driver side. You have a different bend in the high pressure line
on the box.
 

Attachments

  • 012.JPG
    147.1 KB · Views: 318
My TTi's fit fine and I have power steering , I have done an engine swap from the top with them still in place and last summer I pulled the trans with them in place which is much harder you have to undo them at the collectors and twist them to get the trans out , If I were you I would ignore the expert easy way of rolling everything under the car and dropping the body down and go with the old school motor in from the top this way you can put everything but the motor in the car then pull the slip joint off and drop the motor slowly into place , as others have said the 90 degree adapter does nothing and isn't needed just remember to use the mini starter as the big one is a royal pain to bolt in .
 
1968dartman said:
should have one in a few days after I install the 90 deg adapter on my car. Are you coming up to the Atlantic Nationals?
Click to expand...


Not this year. I am not a fan of large crowds :) ...and what $s I do have are all goin' in the Duster.

I am going to try to hit the mopar only in Bridgewater but not sure...really want to get this rig on the road.

Pm me with a price..

Thanks :)
Ian.
 
cannucky said:
My TTi's fit fine and I have power steering , I have done an engine swap from the top with them still in place and last summer I pulled the trans with them in place which is much harder you have to undo them at the collectors and twist them to get the trans out , If I were you I would ignore the expert easy way of rolling everything under the car and dropping the body down and go with the old school motor in from the top this way you can put everything but the motor in the car then pull the slip joint off and drop the motor slowly into place , as others have said the 90 degree adapter does nothing and isn't needed just remember to use the mini starter as the big one is a royal pain to bolt in .
Click to expand...


OK, so I get this straight.

everything under the car is being replaced.

bolt headers to engine and drop engine / trans down from the top ...connect to k frame.

I am unsure how that is different... I plan to roll all under car then attach to hoist and pull into place as a unit.

Isn't there more potential to dent things this way...

ian.

Bolt the k-frame to the car.
 
I'm 62 years old, been playing with a bodies, small blocks; b bodies, big blocks since 1970.

If you can find a good set of factory manifolds, jump on them. The headers are a pain, they get in the way of everything, only get 30 hp more.

Working on a car with headers involves a lot of; I think I can feel it. But can't get a tool in there.
 
grassy said:
I think if I spun the hose 180 degrees, this may work. can you have new ones made ?

ian.
Click to expand...
Yes try that and see if will work, might have to try to bend a little (never done it myself) Heat? I do not know. any one else?
You can buy them at auto parts store I think but have to order them.
Also you can get them at Classic Industries.

Darryl
 
Have a 71 K member for the 340 in my car with all new mounts, but had to shim my mounts between the k member and mount biscuit

Also had to remove the mount on right side and lift engine to get the right side in.

No oil adapter

Had a set of aluminum spacers made to remove the washers, couldn't get the engine high enough to put them in. Will have to remove the mounts from the engine to get the spacers in. I THINK THE WASHERS ARE OK.

Headers are a PITA

Get a set of cast iron manifolds
 
I installed TTI's on my Scamp with power steering a few months ago, same mounts. I was having issues with fitment. I called TTI, they instructed me to drop motor in cradle and bolt to trans. We then lifted motor up as high as possible. Install passenger side first. I needed to shift motor on both sides to get clearance. I did remove center links just to make it easier. They fit, but tight! Took about 12 hrs to install both sides. Be patient! As long as you gave TTI all of your specs on build they will fit
 

Attachments

  • SAM_2196 (Small).jpg
    43.6 KB · Views: 307
  • SAM_2197 (Small).jpg
    38.8 KB · Views: 282
  • SAM_2198 (Small).jpg
    54.1 KB · Views: 296
The headers have to be placed in the engine bay before the engine goes in from the top. The left side header has the slip joint that goes around the torsion bar unless you have not put the torsion bar on yet. Anyway tie the headers out toward the fenders to keep from denting them. Then just slip the engine down and in. I had starter attached but that was with manual steering. It might be easier with starter out. But starter has to be installed before left side header is bolted to engine. Pix attached.
 

Attachments

  • Duster 160a.jpg
    34.1 KB · Views: 316
  • Duster_13a.jpg
    34.1 KB · Views: 334
These are not TTI but cheep $100 Jegs and here's how I put them in.
Put the headers on while the motor was on an engine stand. Lifted the motor off the stand with a hoist and lowered it onto the K frame sitting on a couple floor moving dollies. Then lifted the front of the car up high enough to roll the motor under. Then lowered the body down on to stands. then reached in and picked up the motor and K frame into place with a engine hoist. This way was much easier for me then when I added the headers to the car, or tried to remove the old engine leaving the headers in the engine bay. From the bottom is the way to go IMO.
vbpgimage.php

vbpgimage.php

vbpgimage.php

vbpgimage.php
 
Getting ready to head back out the a.m. i will post tonight how it worked...

Ian.
 
I have TTI's with w2 heads and PS in my 67 Barracuda. Everthing fit but it was really tight. I had to jack up the engine as high as possible on the left and then tap the in place with a rubber mallet. Had them on for a couple of years. Stock heads should be easier.
 
Crumbs ! Things are tight. We used many of your suggestions...TTI shorted me 4 bolts but the headers actually went on. Got the engine in and tightened up at 3:40 pm today :) :) :)

I took off one of the power steering lines and kept our original starter (due to budget).

I think the header and the starter are about 1/16 off...is there any way I can shield this unit ?

There was absolutely no way we could have done this install old school with these headers and it was so simple just to pick up the front end..slide the combined engine / trans / suspension in. Drop the car..grab the engine again with the puller and lifted it in place..put the 4 k-frame bolts in.

BTW, there is nothing in the manual on what to torque the k frame nuts except for an obscure notation of something to frame 55 pounds.

THANKS

Some pics..sorry for the quality..

Installed..yeah :blob:
_IGP8267a-L.jpg


other side..

_IGP8269a-L.jpg



Ready to go in..

_IGP8277a-L.jpg





The engine bay..

_IGP8293a-L.jpg



_IGP8295aa-L.jpg



From under the car..

_IGP8292a-L.jpg
 
Just a quick thought, did you put thread sealant on the front and rear bolts for the headers? If not this might be a good time to do that, they go into water!
 
Wow That looks good. Nice fit.
Just put a used starter later from a 95? Ram van or Dakota from the wreckers.
Nice job!

Darryl
 
Bad Sport said:
Just a quick thought, did you put thread sealant on the front and rear bolts for the headers? If not this might be a good time to do that, they go into water!
Click to expand...

It seems to me that this will have to come apart more than a normal exhaust car so when I get the other bolts, I was going to put anti seize on all of them.

No, i didn't know that. Thanks. Would plumber's tape be ok or should I pick up some from NAPA tomorrow ?

Thanks
ian.
 
monook said:
Wow That looks good. Nice fit.
Just put a used starter later from a 95? Ram van or Dakota from the wreckers.
Nice job!

Darryl
Click to expand...

Funny, I had a '96 RAM which would be the same starter.

We probably would have done the same because changing our starter out is going to be interesting but budget is budget.

Is there a way you can protect the starter from the heat ?

Ian
 
grassy said:
Funny, I had a '96 RAM which would be the same starter.

We probably would have done the same because changing our starter out is going to be interesting but budget is budget.

Is there a way you can protect the starter from the heat ?

Ian
Click to expand...

I don't know because my car is part Ram van now.(smaller starter)
Are those headers ceramic coated? I think your starter will be fine.

Darryl
 
monook said:
Are those headers ceramic coated?

Darryl
Click to expand...

Yes...we bought the car as a stalled project. The PO had too many toys ..and he had started to collect stuff for the rebuild. The TTIs and exhaust system came with the car. Not sure how it is all going to fit under the car but I (and my two worker bees) are keen on trying. Rule one with kids..never show fear <RBG>

ian.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top