Can someone help with TTI headers and a 360 ?

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The thing that I notice is the under hood temp is down quite a bit.
I had 67 notch years ago with a 383 and fender exits and it was very hot in there.
To drive it was to wear those helicopter head gear 456 gear reverse manual valve body and so on.
Now I have this vert 360 TTi's Dynomax superturbo mufflers and love the sound.

I really like the engine bay of yours, the color combo looks very sharp.
Yes no fear ,but it is there when we go in blind.


Darryl
 
monook said:
I really like the engine bay of yours, the color combo looks very sharp.
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Thank-you. I will pass this on to my daughter. She is kinda fine artsy.

We get this a lot:

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But we also live in a two tone purple and green house...we like colour.

Ian :)
 
nice work, and way to stick with it!! It was a royal pain in the butt to install my TTI headers too. LOL. but after a few tries, I got it down.
 
Thank-you. We really feel good about this. It is nice when things go "right".

The light at the end of the tunnel looks a bit closer now :)

Ian.
 
Nice work Ian. I have to do the same with an engine install from the bottom shortly.

Yes those headers are ceramic coated. Good headers.

Cot any pics of the complete dolly you used to roll it under the car?
 
grassy said:
Is there a way you can protect the starter from the heat ?
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I picked up a piece of heat barrier at NAPA, it has some adhesive on it and I just put a wrap of that around mine. It comes in a 12" by 12" sheet I think.

If you're running a mini and ceramic coating you may not need it.
 
Bad Sport said:
I picked up a piece of heat barrier at NAPA, it has some adhesive on it and I just put a wrap of that around mine. It comes in a 12" by 12" sheet I think.

If you're running a mini and ceramic coating you may not need it.
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No..I am running my original but yes, ceramic.

ian.
 
crackedback said:
Nice work Ian. I have to do the same with an engine install from the bottom shortly.

Yes those headers are ceramic coated. Good headers.

Cot any pics of the complete dolly you used to roll it under the car?
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Sure..I will post tonight.

ian.
 
This was an exercise that we discovered what we did wrong as we moved along.

I had made a dolly out of an inch thick board ( 24*27 inches) and 5 inches off the ground. I thought it would only carry a couple of hundred pounds.


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So I put together this unit (36*36 inches) that I covered with 2*10s ..it is 5 inches off the ground and it can carry a tremendous amount of weight.


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I am not sure how much an engine/trans and front suspension weighted but I knew it was heavy.

Two things we didn’t consider was the width of the legs on the engine lift and the height of the legs. On the wider unit I was concerned with the stress on the tie rods . We had tied off the UCA to keep the rotors from dragging....but I was concened how the boards intersected in the middle of the tie rod. As well, there was no easy way of dropping the engine on the suspension with the large rig unless we placed it on the engine puller’s legs (how to get it off ?) so we moved the suspension to the smaller unit, spanning the 24 inches width.

We placed 2 lengths of the 2*10s parallel to the engine puller legs. We put the cart on top of them and was able to push this cart close enough where we were able to place the engine / trans on to the suspension. And it held. We put a 2*4 to support the transmission do the headers wouldn’t be bent. We rolled the cart off the 2*10s …jacked up the car and rolled the unit under the car. We then had to jack this cart up again to place boards under the wheels so we could slide the engine lift back in to lift the unit on to the frame.

When we do this again, we will use a narrow cart that will be slightly taller than the engine lift legs which, in our case, is 8 inches.
 
Now that you say this, I also remember trouble getting the hoist legs around the dolly I had. Mine was 3 separate dollies and not near as strong. I used a ratchet strap from each rotor up over the top to hold the rotors and LCAs up off the floor.
I'm glad it went smooth. Like is said this is the way to go especially if you are doing the suspension too. I will forevermore pull and install the motor this way, its how it was designed to happen.
 
Pulled, cleaned and re installed the k frame bolts. Sealed the headers today and finally acquired the proper dust shield for this transmission.

Sooo, we have to take the starter out. there is no was in gods green eart that the starter can come out...we can undo the bolts and slide it out but there is no part..so the damn'ed engine has to come out again.

We are not happy campers.

Will go to UAP tomorrow and get a late model ram starter. Or is there a better choice ?

ian.
 
I added a remote oil filter relocating kit so I don't spill oil all over them when I go to change the oil
 

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I like those but the kids can buy one after we finish this :)

My son is quite unhappy with how the headers fit. I do believe I heard a few new words...

Ian.
 
Hey grassy Can't you just undo motor mounts and driver side header to get the starter out? You just have to lift an inch.
I had my Ram Van starter out a couple of times without undoing nothing, because of
the vibrating trans dust cover,I took out because of some bad threads in the trans.
So I will once again take out this winter to put dust cover back on and fix them
threads. So I am driving it without the cover for now.
That new style starter is night and day difference.
Good luck Ian


Darryl
 
no, the '97 dodge dakota with a 5.2 is what you want....there are 2 mini starters that are available, one is even smaller...

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Carolynn,

You wouldn't know what year your starter is...I will head to NAPA tomorrow am and get another...I normally get the "deer in the headlights" look when I mention a Duster (but they have one or 2 good folks there if they are working that day... kick, kick..I should have done this in the first place.

At the present moment, we have the trans/suspension and engine in in one piece.

Rather than pulling out the whole unit, you are saying that we could just undo the motor mounts and pull up...it should come out..i think the steering linkage is in the way at the moment. The header bolts are a bugger to put in.....woulds it be a good idea to pull the stud as well and replace with a bolt ?

Thanks :)
 
I used bolts in mine that I bought from auto zone. I had to use longer than average bolts because of the thick flanges
 
mopardude318 said:
no, the '97 dodge dakota with a 5.2 is what you want....there are 2 mini starters that are available, one is even smaller...
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Crumbs, that is small compared to the monster that we have at the moment.

I wonder is napa stocks that one...

I like..

Thanks
ian.
 
Sedanman said:
I used bolts in mine that I bought from auto zone. I had to use longer than average bolts because of the thick flanges
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I think Napa is the auto zone equivalent.

I found a new store locally that just deals with fasteners...and they are friendly but it is a 50 minute round trip...

Ian.
 
I used Arp header bolts from a performance shop.
Rip them studs out of there and the engine will come up.
Now that I remember I had the stock starter in there but
did not like how tight it was,so I got the Van starter.
I am not sure of the exact year so I am guessing 95 to 98?

Got it from a wreckers.

Darryl
 

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monook said:
Rip them studs out of there and the engine will come up.
Darryl
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I think that is gong to be our direction. I still kick myself for not replacing it when we were first dong the original install when we saw the fit..

Thanx
Ian.
 
The headers will stay where they are and the engine up, this will give you room
to get that out.

Darryl
 
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