Car getting real hot....

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:BangHead: YR, we're wasting our time with those who do not want to understand, because they know that we're wrong. I'm no longer going to bother explaining in every overheating thread why that "coolant staying too long in the rad" is pure unadulterated bullshit.
 
Also something I wrote earlier was not entirely accurate according to the MTSC.
At least with the Chrysler systems at the time, they only become pressurized when there is vapor pressure.
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OK, Tech. Set me straight.

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DrCharles said:
:BangHead: YR, we're wasting our time with those who do not want to understand, because they know that we're wrong. I'm no longer going to bother explaining in every overheating thread why that "coolant staying too long in the rad" is pure unadulterated bullshit.
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This caused me lots of grief 30 years ago! I am much smarter today, and happier!
 
Dale Davies said:
Balance is also a factor. 3 of the blades are more evenly spaced and then the two are closer together. Balance and noise. The 5 blade are definately quieter.
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Well yeah, they all have to be balanced since they spin. That's kinda a no brainer. lol
 
The coolant requires a certain amount of time in the block to transfer heat from the cylinders to the coolant and also enough time in the rad to cool the coolant with air flow. Changing the factory parameters could mess things up good.
Let the thermostat do it's job
 
DrCharles said:
:BangHead: YR, we're wasting our time with those who do not want to understand, because they know that we're wrong. I'm no longer going to bother explaining in every overheating thread why that "coolant staying too long in the rad" is pure unadulterated bullshit.
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By the way it is only June! The questions will increase more in the coming months!

And love the emojis! The brick wall in Particular! One must walk around and find the opening and stop beating one's head against the wall!
 
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@yellow rose
You know I am lost with what you guys are talking about lol but I just want you to know from my experience with you, I am willing to wager anything with anyone that when you state something you KNOW what you are talking about.

Surely whatever other astringent ideas someone may have it does not mean they are 100% correct based on trial and error as you would be but maybe they are just repeating something they read.

In the end, I know and slowly most every one else will too that when you say something it comes with volumes of knowledge to back it up.
That's all..... And I still can't get my guage to slow down and hitting 200 within 10 mins of driving sometimes if I'm in the city, once I get on the highway or express lanes I'm down to 160..
Morale of the story, stay off the streets..

MAPS
 
This thread should be a sticky! Not sure who can do it but Rusty RR "Rob" may help! It may not even matter as it always comes back up this time of year!
 
MAPS said:
@yellow rose
You know I am lost with what you guys are talking about lol but I just want you to know from my experience with you, I am willing to wager anything with anyone that when you state something you KNOW what you are talking about.

Surely whatever other astringent ideas someone may have it does not mean they are 100% correct based on trial and error as you would be but maybe they are just repeating something they read.

In the end, I know and slowly most every one else will too that when you say something it comes with volumes of knowledge to back it up.
That's all..... And I still can't get my guage to slow down and hitting 200 within 10 mins of driving sometimes if I'm in the city, once I get on the highway or express lanes I'm down to 160..
Morale of the story, stay off the streets..

MAPS
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I think once you get fan and shroud sorted out, it will be fine. Its clear that air flow is an issue.
 
Mattax said:
Also something I wrote earlier was not entirely accurate according to the MTSC.
At least with the Chrysler systems at the time, they only become pressurized when there is vapor pressure.
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View attachment 1715752840OK, Tech. Set me straight.

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My understanding is that the vent normaly has a light spring holding it on the rubber cap gasket. When the system cools off this vent opens to prevent a vaccum in the cooling system that could colapse hoses. I have noticed some built as described, but they would take a fair burp of vapor from neucleate boiling.
 
The coolant always expands as it heats, and hot spots in the heads make some steam pockets that also expand the coolant volume. When coolant volume grows to the point in the top tank to where liquid coolant eliminates the 1" headspace it then makes contact with the breather valve on the radiator cap seal whence that valve slaps shut instantly and cooling system pressure is allowed to build instantaneously. Once pressure is at 16-17 psi the steam bubbles in the hot spots collapse due to the 16PSI pressure thus restoring the pure liquid to metal contact necessary for best heat transfer. 50/50 Ethylene glycol @ 16 PSI boils at about 276* which greatly reduces boil overs on parked cars. As to heat exchange in radiators is concerned the faster you can flow the water through the core and the faster you can flow cool air over the core, the more Btu's will be extracted from the fluid. Therefore running the water pump shaft/fan shaft at as high a speed as possible without creating cavitation in the impeller will result in dumping more btu's into the air than any other combination. Back to the OP's problem, That shroud design is the worst I've seen. It is way too close to the core, and has no aerodynamic sweep from mounting edge to fan opening. The fan you have chosen is a very poor performer and should be replaced with a HD clutch driven 5 blade mopar fan. History lesson time: The 69 hemi a-bodies used the same 22 inch 3 core radiator and shroud +5 blade clutch fan as the 340 a/c cars did, and they did not overheat on Woodward Ave. Here are some photos of my 69 cuda 550hp 470ci A/C equipped cooling system. Eddy heads, 11.3:1 CR .033" quench height, 246* @.050" Camshaft. Timing 15*btdc idle, 53* btdc light throttle cruise. Fuel mixture at light cruise is 15.3:1. Original OEM 3 core brass radiator is offset forward on its brackets 3/4 inch to gain room for the clutch fan clearance on the big engine. The 1/2 inch gap between the OEM factory shroud and the top tank is stock and acts as a vent during high speed operation. 5 blade asymmetrical fan, and HD viscous fan drive are OEM replacements. Engine idles @800RPM in gear with A/C on and on our hottest day so far 91* resulted in some extended traffic light temps of 205* otherwise out on the road it runs at the 195 thermostat temp regardless of gear or speed. You have a fine radiator, and a usable water pump...it is your shroud and fan that are letting you down. The shroud is blocking airflow at highway speed, and the tiny bladed fan can't suck enough air at idle. OTOH those are sure nice pulleys! Best Wishes, Steve

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Apparently some of you guys don't beleive what the Chrysler engineering team wrote..
 
Mattax said:
Apparently some of you guys don't beleive what the Chrysler engineering team wrote..
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I never read anything they wrote about 700ish h.p. wedges in little engine compartments , setting idleing in 90 plus temps , w/ 90`s humidity , at a stoplight in collinsville , okla. !--makes a world of diff. !
 
bob mCcarty said:
I never read anything they wrote about 700ish h.p. wedges in little engine compartments , setting idleing in 90 plus temps , w/ 90`s humidity , at a stoplight in collinsville , okla. !--makes a world of diff. !
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700 hp?
the post is problems cooling a stockish 340?
 
bob mCcarty said:
I never read anything they wrote about 700ish h.p. wedges in little engine compartments , setting idleing in 90 plus temps , w/ 90`s humidity , at a stoplight in collinsville , okla. !--makes a world of diff. !
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Engines do not care about humidity. Actually, moisture helps to cool the intake charge a bit. The awful ambient temperatures are more of an issue for us drivers. As long as the cooling system is up to snuff, it will handle a lot of ambient heat.
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
Engines do not care about humidity. Actually, moisture helps to cool the intake charge a bit. The awful ambient temperatures are more of an issue for us drivers. As long as the cooling system is up to snuff, it will handle a lot of ambient heat.
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In hi humidity , my fast 2.0 fuel inj. system registers higher temps than the outside temps really are , it does make a diff, engines feel the same thing we do .
 
Evaporation requires heat.Wet your finger and it instantly cools as the water evaporates.When it's humid there is little evaporation and we stay hot because the water (sweat) does not evaporate and cool us.But the air temperature isn't higher.
Do inanimate objects stay a little warmer when it's humid ...good question?
 
Went for a ride the yesterday 113F outside 440 in a Valiant with A/C cruising at about 200 goes up to about 210 at a light and cools back down to 200-205 before the next light. No worries, 235 is hot. In the cooler months it runs on the 180 stat temp most of the time. I go around and around with people that over fill the radiator and they puke when they shut it off. In most cases they quit puking when they reach the proper level but no I have to top it off again :realcrazy:
 
bob mCcarty said:
refering to what the engineers wrote about back then ---------
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Which I posted because while we are discussing MAPS car and engine, there were comments about how they beleived Chrysler engineers intended the systems to work. After I provided snips of directly from the Chrysler tech literature of the time, one would have thought that would have been pretty good evidence. My post was intended to draw attention to the obvious contradictions between what some people have typed and what is in the books regarding the original systems.
 
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