ajarofclay
Well-Known Member
More of a "how to" question; I'm wondering what are some of the better ways to clean up and coat or treat factory stock exhaust manifolds. As Always, thanks in advance, Gentlemen...and/or ladies.
OK. I will agree that there are some high heat exhaust paints that are OK. I have used quite a few over the years. I have never used POR15 high heat exhaust paint, but POR15 products are quite good. I have been powder coating part time out of my garage for about 20 years. I've gotten pretty good at it. I have found an excellent professional product called Techline Color Guard that works far better than anything else I have ever used. It comes in a cast iron grey that looks just like a brand new exhaust manifold, and stays looking loke that for many years.More of a "how to" question; I'm wondering what are some of the better ways to clean up and coat or treat factory stock exhaust manifolds. As Always, thanks in advance, Gentlemen...and/or ladies.
Very nice. Is that a paint or powder coating then. (I know of powder coating but not really familiar with the process)OK. I will agree that there are some high heat exhaust paints that are OK. I have used quite a few over the years. I have never used POR15 high heat exhaust paint, but POR15 products are quite good. I have been powder coating part time out of my garage for about 20 years. I've gotten pretty good at it. I have found an excellent professional product called Techline Color Guard that works far better than anything else I have ever used. It comes in a cast iron grey that looks just like a brand new exhaust manifold, and stays looking loke that for many years.
I media blast the manifolds and spray the paint on. I then do a partial cure in my powder coating oven for about 20 minutes. Then the first time on an engine finishes the cure. Follow the instructions on the can. The instructions say DO NOT use glass beads. They leave the surface too smooth for good paint adhesion. I normally use medium grit ground glass. I have done dozens of sets of manifolds with this product, and I have never had a customer bring them back.
ColorGard Cast Iron Grey Exhaust Coating (CHK) | Tech Line Coatings Industries
View attachment 1716349777View attachment 1716349778
Nah, you're good PB. I 100% agree regarding the headers. As you can see, mine do. And I'm pretty confident I had these zinc coated way back in the day. For anybody assuming that's because of age, they look like this within a few years of being done. It's a different time now and I'm a different person so trying to get this car back to stock for the most part. On top of that I remember what a nightmare these headers were to install, needing to partially pull the motor up to squeeze them by everything and denting one of the tubes in the process. They suck to get the starter out also.Now I’m curious….
Do any of the products and methods mentioned above work on headers? Can’t say that I’ve ever seen a header that didn’t look like crap.
And my apologies to the OP for somewhat highjacking this thread.
Now I’m curious….
Do any of the products and methods mentioned above work on headers? Can’t say that I’ve ever seen a header that didn’t look like crap.
And my apologies to the OP for somewhat highjacking this thread.
It is a paint. It costs $120 per quart. I bought a quart several years ago and have done several sets of manifolds. There is probably enough left for two more sets. So $120 and I get 6 sets of manifolds; not bad. I spray on one medium wet coat and a few minutes later another medium wet coat. They warn you to NOT spray a second coat after the first dries, and to NOT build up too many coats. You could use just about any spray gun, even a cheap Harbor Freight one. Like I said, all of my customers have always been very pleased.Very nice. Is that a paint or powder coating then. (I know of powder coating but not really familiar with the process)
I have never used the Techline on headers. However, about 25 years ago, I used the silver Eastwood stuff on the headers on my Barracuda. It looked pretty good and lasted for several years before needing a bit of touchup. THAT BEING SAID, I really like the Techline stuff, and it's all I'll use on manifolds.Now I’m curious….
Do any of the products and methods mentioned above work on headers? Can’t say that I’ve ever seen a header that didn’t look like crap.
And my apologies to the OP for somewhat highjacking this thread.
Agreed. I sprayed mine on the first time and brushed on the touchup.i have a friend that uses the eastwood stuff on his headers. seems to hold up ok but needs to be touched up from time to time.. he touches it up with a foam brush...
I have to laugh at the oven baking. I almost got a divorce baking a set years ago in our family oven. Stunk the house up. In suggest baking in another, outside the home oven. I agree Por15 is the BEST product line of several items.por15 coating. foam brushed it on.. cured it in the oven some even though you don't really need to..
View attachment 1716348473
View attachment 1716348474
View attachment 1716348475
I believe they recommend using a foam brush. I have done it that way. Less streaking, nice finish and longevity.Once blasted, wipe with brake/component cleaner, then brush on with POR15 Manifold grey. That stuff goes far, is durable and can be touched up with brush. It has the consistency of thin toothpaste, but coverage is above excellent. A small can will do 5 sets, 2 coats each of sb manifolds easy.
POR-15 High Temperature Paint - Gray - 8 fl. Oz. - High Heat Resistant Paint - Withstands Temperatures of 1200 Degree F | Weather & Moisture Resistant https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00J6B1JZY?tag=fabo03-20
I believe they recommend using a foam brush. I have done it that way. Less streaking, nice finish and longevity.
Application:
Liquid paint directions:
On previously painted surfaces blistered and loose paint must be removed. Sandblasting is the optimum surface preparation. Clean bare metal with POR-15 Cleaner Degreaser and agitate surface and ensure that the surface is clean, dry, and free from oil, grease, dirt, salts, and any other contaminants. Use POR-15 Metal Prep to etch and remove scale and improve adhesion on new metal. Paint all bare areas with two thin coats of POR-15 High Temp Coating. Apply three thin coats on surfaces subject to corrosive materials. Recoat within 1-24 hours. Fully dry coating (past 24 hours) should be roughened with 240-320 grit sand paper before recoating. Allow POR-15 High Temp Coating to cure for 24 hours on the surface before temperature is raised above 300°F for 15-30 minutes to fully cure. For spray applications thin with POR-15 Reducer Solvent or Xylene up to 10 percent.
Dry time: Cures to touch in 1-4 hours. Second coat can be applied in 24 hours, depending on ambient temperature and humidity. POR-15 High Temp reaches maximum hardness after heat exposure above 300°F (150°C) for 15-30 minutes and then allowed to cool down.
Clean up: Do not put left-over paint back into can. Clean all equipment immediately after use. At the same time, flush out all fluid lines and carefully clean pressure pots. Use clean POR-15 Reducer Solvent or urethane cleaner only. It is also good practice to periodically clean the spray tip or the fluid tip/air cap combination during the course of the working day or shift.
Aerosol spray directions:
Surface must be clean, dry an free of all oil and other contaminants before painting. Sandblasting is the optimum surface preparation. Protect surrounding areas from spray mist. Must be heat cured at a minimum temperature of 400°F (205°C) for two hours. More than one coat may be required for full hide. Apply three thin coats on surfaces subject to corrosive materials.
Cleanup: To prevent clogs in spray nozzle, hold can upside down and spray until clear gas appears. Completely empty cans may be recycled or disposed of with regular trash. Dispose of partially empty cans responsibly. DO NOT puncture, incinerate or compact.[/quoye]
- Shake can at least one minute before and occasionally during use.
- Spray surface with steady, even strokes at a distance of 8 to 10 inches. Several light coats give a better finish than one heavy coat. For best results, recoat within 1 hour or after 24.
I have to laugh at the oven baking. I almost got a divorce baking a set years ago in our family oven. Stunk the house up. In suggest baking in another, outside the home oven. I agree Por15 is the BEST product line of several items.
I believe they recommend using a foam brush. I have done it that way. Less streaking, nice finish and longevity.
they claim you can spray it too.. the friend i had helping me out when we did the manifolds couldn't get it to this properly.. the foam brush worked great. we just went over the freshly blasted metal.. i didn't use their cleaner or prep.