Charger

[1967 'cuda]

Standard Big Block Chevy (for stroker combinations): Center-Center Length: 6.535" Rod Type: H Beam Journal Size: 2.200" Wrist Pin Size: .990" Big End Width: .994" Bolts Used: ARP 8740 190,000 PSI Approx. Weight: 770-780 Block Type: B Series: BBC

pic of one of the connecting rod caps complete with ARP rod bolts

The 512" stroker crank arrived from 440 SOURCE.

Billet aluminum rear seal is built wider than factory originals to aid in better sealing

Billet aluminum main caps should help to strengthen the bottom end

We needed a windage tray that would clear the longer stroke crank

 

[67 prostreet gt]

Hp estimates and if ya need any parts I may have some

Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad

 

[1967 'cuda]

Hp estimates and if ya need any parts I may have some

Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad

I don't know if we're being realistic or not, but we're hoping to pull around 1000 HP out of the motor. According to testimonials on the 440 SOURCE website a lot of guys were making 750-800 HP with this stroker kit on normally aspirated engines. We are hoping it will be reliable enough to still be a daily driver. Some of the components we chose to go with (such as the chromoly rockers) were picked for strength and reliability over horsepower potential.

 

[1967 'cuda]

We called up COMP cams for technical advice on camshaft selection. After telling them the details on the engine, car weight, gear ratio, etc.. they custom ground a new shaft for us.

With what research we had already done, their cam specs sounded like they were right in the ballpark of what others recommended. We could have gone with a roller but we aren't planning on flogging this motor. I doubt we'll take it over 6000 RPM. Depending on how it runs, we may change our mind.

Obviously, we matched the lifters with the cam.

 

[1967 'cuda]

There was a pair of front buckets that came with the car when we bought it. Although they were nasty, they were good enough to use as cores to reupholster. We had decided to go with aftermarket seats because we didn't like the 'feel' of these. They are very flat and you have a tendency to slide in them if you corner hard. The ones we went with have some side support to them and are pretty comfortable. We kept the seat tracks from the originals to use with our aftermarket seats and sold these for $80 to recoup some of our expenses.

The gas cap that was on the car when we bought it was pitted. Because it's located on top of the rear quarter we figured we had to go new. I'm so glad some of these parts are being 'repopped'.

Another pic of the new gas cap.

 

[1967 'cuda]

Spence decided he wanted one of these oil filters from 440 SOURCE. The billet aluminum should look good on the motor.

One of the advantages to this filter is that it can have the filter element changed and/or cleaned. Although most folks might not think that's such a good deal, it will allow us to inspect the filter for contaminants whenever we change oil. I'm curious what all will be in it after the break in period.

 

[1967 'cuda]

I had originally purchased the blower for my funny car back in the 70's. The person I bought it from ran tractor pullers. Before we were going to use it we decided to have it freshened up. We had a hell of a time finding a machine shop experienced in supercharger clearancing. The closest place we could find was in Iowa. A guy there (Mark Kinser) that used to run alcohol funny cars did the work for us. It wasn't cheap. We damn near could have bought a new blower for what it cost us.

These are just some of the pictures we took of it before we had the work done.

Originally we were told it would only take a few weeks to get it back. It ended up taking almost a year.

The front blower snout had to be machined to accept the idler pulley bracket we got from BDS. The Weiand snout had a taper to it and we needed it cut straight.

I had picked up one of those Weiand reinforced rear bearing covers for the blower years ago. The two pockets on the inside are where the rotor bearings ride. It had to be machined for proper bearing location to give the right rotor to case clearance.

After sitting 30 some years on the shelf, a lot of the parts showed their age. Everything looks shiny and new after getting it back.

 

[Fisher]

Very nice build. i am looking at the QA-1 shocks for my duster as well. I dont mind spending money as long as they work.

Blower motors are pretty fussy, they like lots of cylinder head volume. You may have limited yourself with the rpm performer heads. I have them on my new 426 build, and they are a 210 cc runner, the victor JR head is a 280 cc head. When i built my last 468 BBC i was choosing between blower or nitrous. I went nitrous. But the research was cool.

I called Donny Hampton, Hampton blowers,and my 468 with his spec cam and the AFR 305 Rec port heads and his blower with 12 lbs of boost would of made 900 HP he had built several like that and said it was fairly drivable at that boost level.

 

[1967 'cuda]

Someone sent me a pm asking about the front cover on the early Hemi. I wish a person could send pics in a pm. But I guess I'll post a few photos of that front cover here instead. It's an old HOWARDS fuelie front cover that was on a fiberglass turtledeck T altered that I bought back in the 70's.

 

[1967 'cuda]

I know that the dash was all covered in dust and dirt when this photo was taken. - So it doesn't look the best here. In this picture you can see the cracks that were in the dash pad. I had hoped that one of those vinyl repair kits would work. The dirt on the dash seems to make the cracks stand out more. It didn't look this bad when it was clean. - But you can see that after the attempt to fix it with the repair kit, it still sucked. We ended up putting a dash cap on over it.

 

[67 prostreet gt]

So r u guys doing a solid roller or just a roller

Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad

 

[1967 'cuda]

The major purchases in a restoration get the most attention. It's easier to remember how much you paid for the quarter panels and fenders than it is to remember how much you had to put into all the small parts. I sometimes think that we've spent more on the small stuff than we did on the major components. If the pictures of some of these smaller parts seem uninteresting, I apologize. But keeping a record of where our money had gone seemed to have helped us to be more realistic in the planning phase of subsequent projects.

Chromoly pushrods from COMP CAMS

Brass freeze plugs

A new oil slinger

New intermediate shaft

new Melling high pressure/high volume oil pump

new oil pressure sending unit

new water temp sending unit

new bushing for the intermediate shaft

Billet steel timing chain set has 9 - way adjustable keyways. - nicest set I've ever seen

We've tried doing as much research as we could to find the best components for this Charger build. Hopefully the choice of POR-15 engine enamel will be right.

 

[1967 'cuda]

So r u guys doing a solid roller or just a roller

Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad

We're just going to start out with a hydraulic flat tappet cam. COMP didn't think we'd benefit that much from a roller in the application we had planned. Keep in mind that we were trying to focus a bit more on reliability than maximum power. Once we have it on the street we still may consider upgrading to a roller.

 

[1967 'cuda]

The body work has been a slow go. Between weather conditions and other projects cropping up, there always seems to be delays. The quarters are now roughed in. The passenger side door had a series of door dings right along the body line.

The door gaps look pretty good. - Still a little tight on the right side.

There was some quarter panel distortion from body twist over the years. Most notably was a dip behind the right sail panel and a split on the topside next to the door jam.

 

[1967 'cuda]

A few more pictures of the Charger.

 

[1967 'cuda]

We made the mistake of not welding our frame rail connectors on BEFORE we glued down the floor insulation. Not a huge mistake, but we'll have to peel it off before attaching them. If I understand correctly, a person is supposed to weld them on while the vehicle has the weight on the suspension to get them right. I don't know how critical that is. It would be easier for us to jack up the car. We started looking into a lift solution, so we could have room underneath to work and still have that load on the suspension.

The big Taylor 10.4 Thundervolt wires should work out well. We never buy any pre-made wire sets. I think it's worth the time to custom make the lengths to keep them tidier.

Unfortunately we've been robbing some of our parts off of the Charger whenever we came across a need for the same stuff on our other projects. We purchased another chrome alternator to replace the one that ended up on the Roadrunner.

 

[67 prostreet gt]

So r u guys doing a solid roller or just a roller

Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad

We're just going to start out with a hydraulic flat tappet cam. COMP didn't think we'd benefit that much from a roller in the application we had planned. Keep in mind that we were trying to focus a bit more on reliability than maximum power. Once we have it on the street we still may consider upgrading to a roller.

If I may and I don't mean to argue but wouldn't the solid roller be better for street ability the only reason I bring this up is that on several blown engines that the engine builder I use have had lifted failure one of those being my dads 540 with a procharger he had a major lifter failure

Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad

 

[1967 'cuda]

If I may and I don't mean to argue but wouldn't the solid roller be better for street ability the only reason I bring this up is that on several blown engines that the engine builder I use have had lifted failure one of those being my dads 540 with a procharger he had a major lifter failure

Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad

Hey, I can use all the advice I can get. You don't be shy about giving your 2 cents worth. I thought that keeping things as simple as possible would probably translate to increased reliability. Although my son finally developed an interest in cars, he doesn't like having to worry about maintenance any more than he has to. I sort of figured that any solid lifter configuration would most likely need the lash re-checked from time to time, so I tried to shy away from them. AS far as using a hydraulic roller, it seemed like more parts with the potential to fail. We really hadn't made up our minds about cam selection until we had the conversation with the COMP Cams technician. He was fairly certain we'd be able to pull more power from a roller cam, but given what we told him about our priorities, he recommended the hydraulic flat tappet. As I said before, we won't hesitate to do a cam swap later if we're disappointed with the level of performance we get. And we just may take your suggestion then. Thanks.

 

[67 prostreet gt]

I use a solid roller in my 526 nitrous motor and it had about 500 miles on it before the car wreck that totaled my dart last year and I never once touched the rockers and even now the engine builder is still yelling me not to touch them cause they will be fine for far more than wat I was doing before the wreck and also the solid roller cam actually makes a slight but more power from watching big blocks on our engine builders dyno but its mostly a reliability thing

Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad

 

[sireland67]

I am really like your build, one thing that bothers me though.
Please remove all the red spot-putty off the roof of the car and any where else you have put any of it.
Spot putty is just thick primer and keeps shrinking, it will continue to shrink after you paint the car, just giving you a heads up so you dont have to re-do the paint in the future.
To fill minor imprefections / pitting, just use reqular bondo.

 

[1967 'cuda]

I am really like your build, one thing that bothers me though.
Please remove all the red spot-putty off the roof of the car and any where else you have put any of it.
Spot putty is just thick primer and keeps shrinking, it will continue to shrink after you paint the car, just giving you a heads up so you dont have to re-do the paint in the future.
To fill minor imprefections / pitting, just use reqular bondo.

I know what you mean when you mention the shrinkage. I've seen a bunch of cars that have shown low/high spots or sand scratches months after they were completed that didn't when they were fresh. But it's really a matter of giving the materials you're working with the proper amount of time to fully cure. Once you've done that and put a good sealer over it, you should be fine. I first started doing auto body work in the mid seventies. And most of the time I did it as a hobby rather than for a job. The only issues I ever saw were on the jobs that were rushed. That's one nice thing about doing it as a hobby. - Usually you're not in as big of a hurry to get it out the door. I always wondered how those cars that you see on television that are restored in a week look after a few months. I imagine a lot of them have got to show flaws.

 

[PanGasket]

That oil filter will pay for itself im sure. Think about how much a filter costs every time you gotta change it

 

[Dart_Doctor]

Alot of nice work going into this charger . Would you mind showing a better pic of the hood when done . I would like to see it .

 

[1967 'cuda]

Alot of nice work going into this charger . Would you mind showing a better pic of the hood when done . I would like to see it .

Will do. I don't know yet how much we're going to detail out the underside of it. After cutting the hole in it the hood it seemed pretty flimsy. It seemed to flex corner to corner diagonally. That's why we boxed the outer sheet metal to the inner structure. Once we did that the hood seemed as rigid as before it'd been cut. The use of brake line tubing was to create a raised lip around the opening and to further strengthen the sheet metal. Plus it had the added benefit of not having portions of the opening that would have been thin flat metal.

 

[1967 'cuda]

That oil filter will pay for itself im sure. Think about how much a filter costs every time you gotta change it

I suppose eventually it could but it was $100.

http://store.440source.com/Billet-Aluminum-Oil-Filter-ReUsable/productinfo/110-1004/