Charging System
- Thread starter dantegray
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65Val
Average Length Member
It's Delco-Remy BTW....a GM part....why on a Mopar? PowerMaster uses Mopar-style cases and proprietary guts.
Well not quite, google search the powermaster 47529 which is for Mopar and uses GM 10dm case. According to powermaster add washers and its bolt-on.
Reference the 10 dm case is the same as the 12series (you can get in 95 amp off shelf)
Reference the 10 dm case is the same as the 12series (you can get in 95 amp off shelf)
65Val
Average Length Member
Yes, but why put a GM-style Alt on a Mopar when you can get a Mopar-style Alt, as I pasted above ,that performs exactly the same, ?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Actually, the mop ones may NOT perform the same. The older "roundback" is known far and wide for it's poor low RPM output, and even the squarebacks, there is one or two lower output models that actually outputs BETTER at lower RPM than the higher amp unit.
This is one reason that many guys have gone to stuff like the more modern Densos
I don't know "who all" is always better. The only way to tell for certain would be to obtain the engineering data, which relates output vs shaft RPM, or else experimentally set both up for a "real time" test.
This is one reason that many guys have gone to stuff like the more modern Densos
I don't know "who all" is always better. The only way to tell for certain would be to obtain the engineering data, which relates output vs shaft RPM, or else experimentally set both up for a "real time" test.
goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
Yes, and its easy: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=154078
I went from a 78 amp Mopar Squareback to a 78 amp Delco-Remy 12SI. There is no comparison in performance as the Delco charges MUCH MUCH better at idle. You could make the same style bracket and use pretty much any delco alternator with the 180 degree bolt hole pattern...10si, 12si, CS130, CS130D. The 12SI is the best bang for the buck.
I went from a 78 amp Mopar Squareback to a 78 amp Delco-Remy 12SI. There is no comparison in performance as the Delco charges MUCH MUCH better at idle. You could make the same style bracket and use pretty much any delco alternator with the 180 degree bolt hole pattern...10si, 12si, CS130, CS130D. The 12SI is the best bang for the buck.
65Val
Average Length Member
Well, you guys go ahead and put the GM crap on your cars....they'll never show up on mine.
goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
Lets hope you don't have a Saginaw steering pump then....I've seen OEM mopars with Saginaw pumps and columns, Quadrajets, delco style master cylinders (94 ram)...They are PARTS.
I want the best parts possible on the car, the factory Mopar round and square back alternators are garbage and so is the regulator. The performance is not the same, because as I said, I have had both.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
my 67 currently has a Mopar squareback. It's because "it was there" it works, and I don't have a bunch of fans'n stuff.
But I have run Delco in the past, and would not hesitate to substitute something that "works."
Nobody bitches when we put Ed/ Weiand/ other intakes on, aftermarket exhaust, some "other" clutch (I used to run a 'Vette diaphragm pp in my 340) and nobody blinks an eye when some offbreed aftermarket shifter shows up in the car.
But Geezus, run anything other than a sacred Mopar alternator and........................
'N by the way they aren't all that bulletproof, either, back in the "six pak" days, mine had over a 4:1 pulley ratio, (factory) and I ruined at least two of 'em just from RPM. The windings come loose, and you get a mini lightning storm inside the alternator.
But I have run Delco in the past, and would not hesitate to substitute something that "works."
Nobody bitches when we put Ed/ Weiand/ other intakes on, aftermarket exhaust, some "other" clutch (I used to run a 'Vette diaphragm pp in my 340) and nobody blinks an eye when some offbreed aftermarket shifter shows up in the car.
But Geezus, run anything other than a sacred Mopar alternator and........................
'N by the way they aren't all that bulletproof, either, back in the "six pak" days, mine had over a 4:1 pulley ratio, (factory) and I ruined at least two of 'em just from RPM. The windings come loose, and you get a mini lightning storm inside the alternator.
65Val
Average Length Member
Thats what great about this "free" world...we can have our own opinions, and run whatever the h*ll we want. Mopar parts have kept my car running from the time it was built, some 40+ years ago. I think thats a good enough reason to continue using them. If I wanted to run Generic Motors parts, I'd have bought a Chevelle or something.
Like I said....JUST MY OPINION!!!!! Do with it what you will.
See any GM parts in there??????
Like I said....JUST MY OPINION!!!!! Do with it what you will.
See any GM parts in there??????
:wack:
Ok, you car is 40 years old ---WOW! I have a 72' If you look and research you will see that not all Mopar parts are the best. I want the best parts for my money, I do not want the dim headlights and need to support my eletrical components at low RPM like when the eletrical fan cuts in and draws 30amps, support eletrical fuel pump 7amps, support ignition 8-10amps, radio 10amps, you see my point.
How about I give you 2 links and we run the 1/4 mile, oh sorry my motor is slow because I have chevy internals in my motor (pistons and rods and it will only rev to 7000 cause it now has lighter CHEVY parts that work in a mopar).:burnout: Hell I will even let you go first and you can hold my bottle.
Ps. The Delco 12-SI alternators are low cost, adaptable, easily rebuildable pieces that work well. You also don't have to take it apart to press the pulley on and off.
cudajim
cudajim
I'm with 65val on this one. I don't do GM parts in any of my Mopars, it just 'aint right.
65Val
Average Length Member
65Val
Average Length Member
It ain't :wack:. Dude...you're into race cars and street machines, and that's fine....I'm into resto's....I'm sure you've also noticed big-time racecars don't have ANY factory parts. That is a different arguement.
I not sure why I’m opening my mouth on this, but what the hell…
No
30 amps + 7 amps + 10amps + 10 amps = 57 amps not including head lights, other lights and electrical loads not accounted for. Seems to me the stock alternator is doing a job it was not designed for.
You want brighter head lights, run 10 gage conductors to them and power directly from battery via relays triggered by existing head light circuit bypassing the bulkhead connector; improve grounding of lighting circuit with larger wire back to battery.
Install a more efficient fan that doesn’t draw a ridiculously high 30 amps.
Power sound system via relays directly off battery triggered by existing radio circuit utilizing 14 gage conductors bypassing bulkhead connector.
You don’t have an alternator problem, you have an engineering problem stuffed into a forty year old electrical system never designed to do what you are attempting.
No
30 amps + 7 amps + 10amps + 10 amps = 57 amps not including head lights, other lights and electrical loads not accounted for. Seems to me the stock alternator is doing a job it was not designed for.
You want brighter head lights, run 10 gage conductors to them and power directly from battery via relays triggered by existing head light circuit bypassing the bulkhead connector; improve grounding of lighting circuit with larger wire back to battery.
Install a more efficient fan that doesn’t draw a ridiculously high 30 amps.
Power sound system via relays directly off battery triggered by existing radio circuit utilizing 14 gage conductors bypassing bulkhead connector.
You don’t have an alternator problem, you have an engineering problem stuffed into a forty year old electrical system never designed to do what you are attempting.
65Val
Average Length Member
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Does/did GM or Chrysler make alternators? Maybe a company under their corporate umbrella, but it certainly isn't a part that defines the car. Ditto for steering, brakes, suspension. Ever heard of Bendix, Moog, Raybestos? Just because a GM or Mopar guy picked a part from a catalog (often for low price), doesn't make it the part I must use. But then, I am not a MacHead either.
For a true restoration I would not consider these. However I've installed GM single wire alternators on other Chrysler cars which have had high amp draw accessories like stereos installed. To me this is not about right or wrong nor good and bad. All components, regardless of manufacturer, have limitations. If those limitations become a problem with the functioning of the car, I seek to repair it in the most economical and durable way possible. In one instance of a retrofit the GM alternator did not solve the problem either. I ended up replacing the main wire from the alt to the charge gauge and that did fix it. I can only surmise that as copper wire ages it loses some of its ability to conduct current. So no matter what you choose to use, happy motoring!
Lonewolf3165
Living the Dream!
SACRILEGE!! SACRILEGE!!
GM parts on a MOPAR?!.
:evil2: GET BEHIND ME YOU SATAN!!
:toothy7:Just had to throw gas on the fire!
I like original appearance at least for the most part on the street whenever, wherever possible. But that's just my taste. A little modernization isn't bad. Brands X,Y & Z haven't really made much of their own components like that for years, let alone what fits 40 year old cars anymore. If I was building a race car again I'd use whatever works the best & weighs the least that will hold up to punishment.
Got to agree with wjajr & his comments. 10lbs of s#!t in a 5lb bag is gonna give you trouble. And I could run a fan boat on 30 amps!
GM parts on a MOPAR?!.
:evil2: GET BEHIND ME YOU SATAN!!
:toothy7:Just had to throw gas on the fire!
I like original appearance at least for the most part on the street whenever, wherever possible. But that's just my taste. A little modernization isn't bad. Brands X,Y & Z haven't really made much of their own components like that for years, let alone what fits 40 year old cars anymore. If I was building a race car again I'd use whatever works the best & weighs the least that will hold up to punishment.
Got to agree with wjajr & his comments. 10lbs of s#!t in a 5lb bag is gonna give you trouble. And I could run a fan boat on 30 amps!
coffeedart67
Well-Known Member
I have/had a GM one wire alternator on a 318 in my 51 Plymouth. I had the same alternator on the flathead six, then switched it over to the 318, I made a mount for the 318 using the rear mount of a power steering pump, and a universal strap, and some 12 gauge steel. Used the GM cause at the time no one had the Chrysler one wire, and just kept it because it throws people off trying to identify the motor.
More often corroded and poor connectors and crimps cause excessive resistance. Whenever resistance is added into the equation it causes a voltage drop, and heat. Most common area of A Body electrical corrosion problems is at bulkhead connector. Most common spot for meltdown from too high current is bulkhead connector, second would probably be connection to amp gage caused by loose connections, and third corroded glass tube fuse holder.
The second problem was caused by Chrysler bean counters in front office forcing engineers to design wire harness to minimum wire gage, resulting in voltage drop in any high draw circuit such as headlight circuit.
If one wants to add high draw equipment to an A Body plan on doing some wire harness upgrading such as heaver gage conductors and installing relays to operate them. There are multiple posting covering different methods of upgrading wiring here, and over at /6 dot org.
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
Because you can go to NAPA and get a great performing alternator without getting bent over a barrel.....
I have a question about the difference of actually running a Chivvy issued part on a Mopar. That is a no go right....in some peoples eyes, but not running Mopar hoses, battery, oil filter, possibly fluids, wiper blades, ect...ect...would be OK?
I have been around and overheard and been in some calm and some heated conversations at car shows about this very stuff in this thread and it's funny to see how other items on a car of a die hard (no pun intended) enthusiast is OK, but a Phord issued rear end......or Chivvy issued alternator.....OMG!! lol
Your car is very nice and clean 65Val and I would love to see it and MANY others on here in person, but not really able to get away and road trip. :toothy7:
This is open for ANYONE that has their ideas! (IF dantegray doesn't mind....don't want to hijack his thread.....)
Lonewolf3165
Living the Dream!
No, the copper itself will always conduct electricity as good as it always did. It's the corrosion caused by exposure to the elements etc. that gets between the connections or loose connections that causes resistance. If the copper wire were to remain sealed(insulated) & undisturbed it would conduct just as well day 1 as it would in a 100 years later.
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
I have a question about the difference of actually running a Chivvy issued part on a Mopar. That is a no go right....in some peoples eyes, but not running Mopar hoses, battery, oil filter, possibly fluids, wiper blades, ect...ect...would be OK?
I have been around and overheard and been in some calm and some heated conversations at car shows about this very stuff in this thread and it's funny to see how other items on a car of a die hard (no pun intended) enthusiast is OK, but a Phord issued rear end......or Chivvy issued alternator.....OMG!! lol
Your car is very nice and clean 65Val and I would love to see it and MANY others on here in person, but not really able to get away and road trip. :toothy7:
This is open for ANYONE that has their ideas! (IF dantegray doesn't mind....don't want to hijack his thread.....)
A purist will tell you this sort of stuff. Personally.....your funds......your car do as you damn well please. For some of us it is about bang for the buck. For example....I have a Ford 9" in the back of my car. The center of it is a Currie 9+ that a friend GAVE me. I am into the housing for a total of $70 or so. I seriously doubt you will ever build a new 8.75 housing for that kind of money....
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