Well, you guys go ahead and put the GM crap on your cars....they'll never show up on mine.
:wack:Thats what great about this "free" world...we can have our own opinions, and run whatever the h*ll we want. Mopar parts have kept my car running from the time it was built, some 40+ years ago. I think thats a good enough reason to continue using them. If I wanted to run Generic Motors parts, I'd have bought a Chevelle or something.
Like I said....JUST MY OPINION!!!!! Do with it what you will.
See any GM parts in there??????
I'm with 65val on this one. I don't do GM parts in any of my Mopars, it just 'aint right.
:wack:
Ok, you car is 40 years old ---WOW! I have a 72' If you look and research you will see that not all Mopar parts are the best. I want the best parts for my money, I do not want the dim headlights and need to support my eletrical components at low RPM like when the eletrical fan cuts in and draws 30amps, support eletrical fuel pump 7amps, support ignition 8-10amps, radio 10amps, you see my point.
How about I give you 2 links and we run the 1/4 mile, oh sorry my motor is slow because I have chevy internals in my motor (pistons and rods and it will only rev to 7000 cause it now has lighter CHEVY parts that work in a mopar).:burnout: Hell I will even let you go first and you can hold my bottle.
Ps. The Delco 12-SI alternators are low cost, adaptable, easily rebuildable pieces that work well. You also don't have to take it apart to press the pulley on and off.
I want the best parts for my money, I do not want the dim headlights and need to support my eletrical components at low RPM like when the eletrical fan cuts in and draws 30amps, support eletrical fuel pump 7amps, support ignition 8-10amps, radio 10amps, you see my point.
i not sure why im opening my mouth on this, but what the hell
no
30 amps + 7 amps + 10amps + 10 amps = 57 amps not including head lights, other lights and electrical loads not accounted for. Seems to me the stock alternator is doing a job it was not designed for.
you want brighter head lights, run 10 gage conductors to them and power directly from battery via relays triggered by existing head light circuit bypassing the bulkhead connector; improve grounding of lighting circuit with larger wire back to battery.
install a more efficient fan that doesnt draw a ridiculously high 30 amps.
power sound system via relays directly off battery triggered by existing radio circuit utilizing 14 gage conductors bypassing bulkhead connector.
you dont have an alternator problem, you have an engineering problem stuffed into a forty year old electrical system never designed to do what you are attempting.
Does/did GM or Chrysler make alternators? Maybe a company under their corporate umbrella, but it certainly isn't a part that defines the car. Ditto for steering, brakes, suspension. Ever heard of Bendix, Moog, Raybestos? Just because a GM or Mopar guy picked a part from a catalog (often for low price), doesn't make it the part I must use. But then, I am not a MacHead either.Well, you guys go ahead and put the GM crap on your cars....they'll never show up on mine.
I can only surmise that as copper wire ages it loses some of its ability to conduct current. So no matter what you choose to use, happy motoring!
Because you can go to NAPA and get a great performing alternator without getting bent over a barrel.....Yes, but why put a GM-style Alt on a Mopar when you can get a Mopar-style Alt, as I pasted above ,that performs exactly the same, ?
Thats what great about this "free" world...we can have our own opinions, and run whatever the h*ll we want. Mopar parts have kept my car running from the time it was built, some 40+ years ago. I think thats a good enough reason to continue using them. If I wanted to run Generic Motors parts, I'd have bought a Chevelle or something.
Like I said....JUST MY OPINION!!!!! Do with it what you will.
See any GM parts in there??????
No, the copper itself will always conduct electricity as good as it always did. It's the corrosion caused by exposure to the elements etc. that gets between the connections or loose connections that causes resistance. If the copper wire were to remain sealed(insulated) & undisturbed it would conduct just as well day 1 as it would in a 100 years later.... I can only surmise that as copper wire ages it loses some of its ability to conduct current...
I have a question about the difference of actually running a Chivvy issued part on a Mopar. That is a no go right....in some peoples eyes, but not running Mopar hoses, battery, oil filter, possibly fluids, wiper blades, ect...ect...would be OK?
I have been around and overheard and been in some calm and some heated conversations at car shows about this very stuff in this thread and it's funny to see how other items on a car of a die hard (no pun intended) enthusiast is OK, but a Phord issued rear end......or Chivvy issued alternator.....OMG!! lol
Your car is very nice and clean 65Val and I would love to see it and MANY others on here in person, but not really able to get away and road trip. :toothy7:
This is open for ANYONE that has their ideas! (IF dantegray doesn't mind....don't want to hijack his thread.....)