Clunking noise passenger side

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75dodgedart said:
So, I got finally got the Dart Towed up, Wild and Crazy guy welded the k member really slowly to ensure it was welded properly and helped me out a big deal. The k member was all cracked , he took it apart welded it and bam she was ready to go, Im replacing some ball joints here, I went to the alignment shop and had the toe set, it was a fun drive home, she was happy to be back on the road, The smell the gasoline filled the evening nite, thank you, Much appreciated!

-75dodgedart
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75dodgedart said:
OK, So once again , I am back on here, I appreciate everyone input, OK ,So I got that k member taken care of, now I went to the alignment shop, they took care of the toe in on the drivers side, now both wheel are wearing out, I believe the ball joints r goin out? and there is some clunking :clock:goin on now, Steering is jumpin on the wheel a great deal and screetching sound comin from both wheels now, driving very slow, and taking it ez on turnz, bout to park her up, any ideas, Thank you y'all!

*Replaced bushings upper and lower, welded k member,
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Did the alignment shop only set the toe? You mentioned that in both of your posts. Are the alignment cams loose causing the clunking maybe? Something has slipped or the alignment shop was really lazy.



1wild&crazyguy said:
wow sounds like they didn't really align it, or the frame is bent.
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Sure what it sounds like to me too. Nice of you to help him out W&C 8)
 
Mid 70's A bodies are common for K-member control arm sleeve issues. Some didn't get welded properly from the factory and wallered out and craked the K-frame like you have experienced. If the lower arm shafts won't snug up then the shafts are turning inside the bushing and the lower bushings should be replaced. There have been some aftermarket bushings FB257 that were made in India and either out of spec or mis boxed that the lower stub shaft will just drop into. These are supposed to be a press fit both in the arm and on the shaft. I did get a set later on that were Duralast made in Turkey and they worked fine. I have one 75 Dart that had a worn K-Member sleeve and the guy hit a big bump with it so hard it pushed the lower shaft up through the K-frame from the rear. Hope your guy got a good location on the sleeve before it was welded back in. :cheers:
 
OK, So Last evening, I got under there and with the help of my friend, I took out and replaced the upper ball joint on the drivers, lower was replaced*, and both the upper and lowers on the passengers side, they were all toast, lucky my lower one on the passenger side didnt break, well what I found was this, the upper ball joint drivers side was spot welded into place on the upper a arm I believe that's whats it called, so I got it out of there now its only time to spot weld it in, I had the body straightened at a collison repair shop to fix previous bends to the frame. YA I had mentioned the toe set, I just got off the phone from them and they said they only set the toe, whats a complete alignment include? I didn't pay them any money thy did it for free after doing a alignment that slopped as soon as they took a right(thats when the k member was cracked) . I have replaced all ball joints, idler arm , lower bushing on drivers side, upper bushing on passengers side, THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP!
The darts just sittin in the drive way just awaiting to be spot welded for that ball joint. It was interesting finding peoples others fixes.

MOpar 4 life
 
amazing.

Just go's to show you can't assume anything.

I was under the impression that the 'whole' suspension was re built, as a ll new bushings and ball joints/idler/pitman etc..


There a lot of mechanics out there who are 'car guys' or just 'general' mechanics, but does not mean they sht about a mopar.......reminds me of a certain thread 'peoples car knowledge' LOL perfect example here where obviously a 'car guy' decided the upper ball joints are pressed and not threaded....

Let me know if can help you further, otherwise just weld it for now but sooner than later get a donor upper control arm to change it out with.
 
Hello all,

So yesterdays lower control arm autopsy concluded in the lower bushing being shot, and another cracked k-member, so we busted out the mig portable welder and welded the cracked k-member, we made sure it was straight and back in place, we cleaned it up, and welded it slow to ensure it was beefy, we grinded it down smoothed it up to make it look nice, got the bushing in 5 mins down the street $12, $15 to get it pressed in at the local machine shop, put it back together and what do you know, the wheel was straight as can be, we put the strut rod in at the same time, and torqued everything down when we took it off the jack, took it for a test drive, no more clunking , no more squierly noises lol, all new ball joints, bushings, just need me some new shox, and an alignment , oh and a new brake line lol, old one finally gaveout front passengers side squirting brake fluid all over, everything worked out, thank you wildandcrazy guy for you help on the other side and advice, had a great time up there, time to get some new tires and well be back on the road, THANK YOU FOR YOUR INPUT EVERYONE!8):happy10:

MOPAR 4 LIFE
 
Hello all Fellow Mopars,

Got the Clunking noises and squierly noises all handled and figured out, got those new gas charged shox from Monroe, only $15 bux each at the wholesale store, and the alignment on finally , slapped some new tires on there, and shes been huggin the ground, takes off perfectly, ALL PROBLEMS SOLVED,

MOPAR 4 LIFE,


THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR INPUT
 
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