clutch adjustment problem

-
dart star

dart star

Disturbed Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2011
Messages
59
Reaction score
2
Location
parts unknown Ct.
on my70 swinger i have a a-833 the trans shifts great but i have to push pedal almost to the floor to shift i have the general 1 1/4 play at top new rubber stop at top but i was wondering if this is as good as it gets or ami missing somthing
thanks for help
 
Sounds to me like you need to lengthen the link right at the pushrod acting on the throwout fork.

Also have someone work the pedal and look for lost motion, a typical problem is a cracked Z bar tube which prevents the linkage from moving as far as it should.
 
I just adjusted my clutch today. I had the inspection plate off bottom of bell housing so I adjusted the pushrod at the clutch fork until the release bearing just touched the pressure plate fingers, then I backed off a turn or two on the pushrod adjust nut to give me just a little clearance between the release bearing and clutch plate fingers. This took up all the free play in my linkage.
 
ive tried that i have the rubber boot off at the present time till i get to the bottom of this to see the throw out bearing and ive adjusted it so that it is just barly touching the three forks ive replaced all clips nylon washers return spring pedalis nice and stiff great feel but i need a little more throw
 
You can always get more throw by extending the length of the bottom Z-bar arm. Of course this will make your clutch pedal push harder. You shouldn't have to modify this arm unless something has been modified along the way. Is your engine moving excessivly
making your z-bar and linkage to move enough to lose your adjustment. Broken engine mount? Just a thought.
 
Did this ever work right, or is it a new build?

Is this linkage a factory setup or has the car been converted from auto?

Have you checked the condition of the bushings in the Z shaft?

Don't discount troubles with the pressure plate itself, or something amiss with the disc
 
I'll be watching this thread.
I have the awfullest time finding first gear.
Reverse is not easy either.
I'm to the point (no time, no lift) to let a mechanic have at it.
 
no this is a real factory h code four speed car with new inner shift levers there no free play except 1 1/4 at top of pedal the clutch starts to engage 3 in off floor it seems like im real close to perfection but not just there yet
had plate resurfaced and have brand new hays street strip three finger clutch the only thing different was install a lake wood sfi bellhousing to keep the 470hp 340 and my legs intact
 
also check the clutch pedal pivot bushing for wear or cracks in the bracket that it mounts in (seen it crack and flex on several cars especially with heavy clutches)
 
Check your pedal assembly this is more than likely your problem. Mopar muscle ran a tech artical on this. If your car has a 5 1/4 pin spread it will not disengage correctly. Early 340s did not have this problem they all had a 6 inch spread. But mopar decided to make the pedal easier and when you put in a performance clutch with out a 6 inch pin spread you create a release problem. Leave all of your linkage the same and extend your pin spread to 6 inches You can see in the pics what end is longer by 3/4 inch, The pin that the rod attaches to needs to be extended. Steve
 

Attachments

  • clutchp1.jpg
    137.6 KB · Views: 573
  • clutchp2.jpg
    136.8 KB · Views: 490
  • clutchp3.jpg
    107.1 KB · Views: 521
  • clutchp4.jpg
    109.9 KB · Views: 493
dart star said:
clutch starts to engage 3 in off floor
Click to expand...

This should be more than PLENTY. Can you get it into reverse without grinding?

If so, then it's not a clutch problem, it's something else, bad syncros, wrong lube, a bad bearing someplace -- including the pilot.

If you cannot get it into reverse at a stop without grinding then I'd bet money it's a disk or pressure plate trouble, RATHER than linkage
 
ok ill check that thanks for all responses ill check that measurment and get back to you tommorrow thanks again
 
If everything is good with the linkage (no worn parts, cracks, etc..) I'd say the finger hight is a little off in the pressure plate. Try tightening the finger pivot nuts on the pressure plate (the three large nuts between the sets of spring pockets) about a quarter turn each until you get the clutch to disengage where you want it. Also make sure all three fingers are adjusted to the same hight against the throw out bearing or you will have chatter problems.
 
I have a 1971 duster here right now. You have to slam it into reverse and it grinds. You cannot downshift easily. Also hitting second at any rpms is difficult. It had three different transmissions installed. Finger and diaphragm clutch. All new linkage from another car. I tried every thing to get this car to shift properly. I read the article in mopar muscle on this problem. I went into the parts shed and dug a couple of peddal assemblies out and saw there was a difference. These are the pics I took for another thread. I have since then changed the pin spread to 6 inches. The car shifts like butter and no clunk or slaming it into reverse so it don't grind. Hitting second and any gear is easy at any RPM without let up on the accelerator. I could not believe the difference in the way this car shifts. The pedal pushes harder without the heavier spring but its manual steering also so doesn't look like its going to be a caddy style ride anyway. Someone on here has a link to that artical in mopar muscle. Found it. http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...eed_a_body_clutch_pedal_adjustment/index.html

Steve
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top