Clutch fork / adjustment rod / torque shaft....

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nodemon

nodemon

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I know I've been asking a ton of questions lately, but damn, I keep getting stumped at every turn.. All this is completely new to me...and I do have a FSM, but a lot of times experienced, knowledgeable people are just gonna be better for info... Installed the correct ball stud bracket and it helped level the z bar a little...enough to attach my clutch rod. Underneath, I attached the adjustment rod to the clutch fork and it's at an angle that doesn't look normal to me. Plus, the adjustment rod seems long compared to pictures I've seen.
20241213_233505.jpg
 
You may have the wrong year bracket there are two different styles . They changed in 72.. Are your bolts straight up and down or at an angle?
 
nodemon looks like the wrong ball stud for the bell housing, looks to me you need the 68-71 ball stud bracket that would raise the zbar up and toward the firewall, also the clip on the zbar does not look like its sitting in the groove properly, must be locked in to keep it from moving left to right.
 
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Are you sure you have the right z-bar? That one looks short to me. Photos are with a TTI modified zbar but note there is less stud outside the bar. Sorry I couldn't find any better photos.

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Oldmanmopar said:
You may have the wrong year bracket there are two different styles . They changed in 72.. Are your bolts straight up and down or at an angle?
Click to expand...
They're straight/up and down...(68-71 bellhousing).. I just got the bracket from Brewers... My other bracket from my 72 was so far off, it wouldn't reach the clutch rod.
 
The pictures I have posted above are 69-71 parts. They are mounted to 71 rails for fitting the headers . We had to turn the arm around on the Z-bar for the fork adjustment rod. We were having issues with the Z-bar hitting the header so we were able to make everything fit before putting it in. these are all factory parts except for the Z-bar arm turned around.

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nodemon said:
I attached the adjustment rod to the clutch fork and it's at an angle that doesn't look normal to me.
Click to expand...
No, that's not going to work once the headers are on, if you can even get them on..
>Take a very close look at Post #6, which looks just about perfect.. which is what you want.
In your install,
The ends of the Z-bar are gonna be moving in too many directions at once. The Z-bar should be at 90* to the centerline of the car in Plan View, and parallel to the ground in Rear view, and the BH-ball should be nearly buried in the tube. That would position the Z-bar arms in a way that they can ONLY move fore and aft. This will center the pedal downrod in the Firewall oval, and set up the adjustable TO rod up next to the BH, so that, stuffed into the TO arm, it operates straight back and forth, out of the way of the headers.
Notice in Post *6. how the TO arm comes way out of the BH window, to meet the adjuster. There is a long and a short TO fork; IIRC yours should be the long one at about 11inches ....... IIRC. EDIT; poster #18 below says 12.5.
After you get the angles worked out and the headers are in, be prepared to fine tune it. In Oldmanmopars pic, notice that the inboard Z-bar arm, has been tweaked between the header and the starter; I had to do the same to mine. But in my case, it wanted to kick the clip off, so I had to double-bend it, to get that lil pin back on a geometrically correct path.
>The frame end can be shimmed over, but keep the downrod mostly centered so it doesn't cut the boot. After that ball is properly positioned in the apron, it needs to be secured there, usually by welding, cuz anything else will tear the apron sooner or later.
>IIRC somebody offers an already modified Z-bar for your application.

Good luck

Other tips
To me, it looks like your engine is NOT in the right place. She appears to be too far to the P-side and too far forward, and too low. But if that was true, then you would have had a lot of trouble installing the rear crossmember.
If you didn't have that trouble, then I gotta suspect the frame-end is in the wrong place, which makes more sense.
I suppose, I would check the K-member placement and/or the frame geometry. The FSM should detail that.
I feel your pain; Slow and steady..............
 
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If you have the 68-71 bracket, then I would look at the measurements from the TTI exhaust site for engine placement to make sure it isn't sitting low in the compartment. Height of center of crank bolt to k frame.
I see Daves69 has posted the page.

Fat motor mount on pass side?

The ball stud is low or the frame bracket is too high. Should be basically a level shot from one to the other.
 
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As mentioned, Check engine location.
Check that the spring clip ends are seated in the groove of the nylon ball , not to the outside of the ball .
That may result in the misalignment you have.
As also mentioned, trans seems a bit to passenger side.
Good luck.
 
AJ/FormS said:
No, that's not going to work once the headers are on, if you can even get them on..
The ends of the Z-bar are gonna be moving in too many directions at once.

Take a very close look at Post #6, which looks just about perfect.. which is what you want.
To me, it looks like your engine is NOT in the right place. She appears to be too far to the P-side and too far forward, and too low. But if that was true, then you would have had a lot of trouble installing the rear crossmember.
If you didn't have that trouble, then I gotta suspect the frame-end is in the wrong place, which makes more sense.
I suppose, I would check the K-member placement and/or the frame geometry. The FSM should detail that.
I feel your pain; Slow and steady..............
Click to expand...
I did jack up the engine and tried to move it more towards the driver side, but wouldn't really budget. It looks too far to passenger side to me as well, and I even said as much to the guy that helped drop it in.
There was zero issue with the crossmember, that's about the only thing that went on easily..lol
Does the k member really have that much tolerance...?
Looking at my z bar, it looks like the bellhousing side arm is bent maybe..towards frame..?
 
Inertia said:
As mentioned, Check engine location.
Check that the spring clip ends are seated in the groove of the nylon ball , not to the outside of the ball .
That may result in the misalignment you have.
As also mentioned, trans seems a bit to passenger side.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Spring clip checks out ok.. The engine placement measurements are off a bit... A buddy is on his way over to give me a hand with that..
 
Getting the z bar level is the main concern here IMO

Is the engine level side to side. Across the china wall, etc.
Motor mounts installed correctly? The engine is low in relation to the frame bracket. Front of engine and/or trans needs to be raised.

The rest of the stuff is secondary.
 
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the way that zbar is nose diving down is putting the clutch adjustment rod way out of alignment tells me that's the wrong ball stud bracket brewers sent, you need the 68-71 bracket, i tried to pm you but your box is full pm me if you would like some help and i could walk you through this, been there done that many times its easy when you have the right parts.
 
Clutch fork should be 12 1/2"'s ? You will probably have to alter the Z-bar arm a little. I mentioned the other day about how much you can move the front of the engine around by loosening the engine to motor mount brackets.
 
rva said:
the way that zbar is nose diving down is putting the clutch adjustment rod way out of alignment tells me that's the wrong ball stud bracket brewers sent, you need the 68-71 bracket, i tried to pm you but your box is full pm me if you would like some help and i could walk you through this, been there done that many times its easy when you have the right parts.
Click to expand...
I thought being a gold member meant unlimited messages...I've deleted some so you can PM me. Any help is greatly appreciated..!
 
AJ/FormS said:
No, that's not going to work once the headers are on, if you can even get them on..
>Take a very close look at Post #6, which looks just about perfect.. which is what you want.
In your install,
The ends of the Z-bar are gonna be moving in too many directions at once. The Z-bar should be at 90* to the centerline of the car in Plan View, and parallel to the ground in Rear view, and the BH-ball should be nearly buried in the tube. That would position the Z-bar arms in a way that they can ONLY move fore and aft. This will center the pedal downrod in the Firewall oval, and set up the adjustable TO rod up next to the BH, so that, stuffed into the TO arm, it operates straight back and forth, out of the way of the headers.
Notice in Post *6. how the TO arm comes way out of the BH window, to meet the adjuster. There is a long and a short TO fork; IIRC yours should be the long one at about 11inches ....... IIRC.
After you get the angles worked out and the headers are in, be prepared to fine tune it. In Oldmanmopars pic, notice that the inboard Z-bar arm, has been tweaked between the header and the starter; I had to do the same to mine. But in my case, it wanted to kick the clip off, so I had to double-bend it, to get that lil pin back on a geometrically correct path.
>The frame end can be shimmed over, but keep the downrod mostly centered so it doesn't cut the boot. After that ball is properly positioned in the apron, it needs to be secured there, usually by welding, cuz anything else will tear the apron sooner or later.
>IIRC somebody offers an already modified Z-bar for your application.

Good luck

Other tips
To me, it looks like your engine is NOT in the right place. She appears to be too far to the P-side and too far forward, and too low. But if that was true, then you would have had a lot of trouble installing the rear crossmember.
If you didn't have that trouble, then I gotta suspect the frame-end is in the wrong place, which makes more sense.
I suppose, I would check the K-member placement and/or the frame geometry. The FSM should detail that.
I feel your pain; Slow and steady..............
Click to expand...
A buddy came over and he determined the engine had to "spin" up on the drivers side.. Once we raised/spun the drivers side to where everything just about lined up perfectly, the passenger side motor mount stud was too far against the frame and wouldn't go down...We tried several times, but the engine would just settle back to where it started.. He thinks i should shim under the motor mounts just under a 1/4" and call it good.
Just wonder why it's not working out as it is though.
 
nodemon said:
I thought being a gold member meant unlimited messages...I've deleted some so you can PM me. Any help is greatly appreciated..!
Click to expand...
said 15 is the limit cant pm you,,pm me your # number and time i will call you tonight before 7pm or tomorrow morning till noon
 
rva said:
said 15 is the limit cant pm you,,pm me your # number and time i will call you tonight before 7pm or tomorrow morning till noon
Click to expand...
Just tried...says you've reached your limit..lol
And I've got 7 pages of PM's... I think it's unlimited with gold membership..
 
You do not have to loosen the motor mount nut in the k-member. You loosen the bracket to the engine block! 3 bolts on each side. You can make a small shim to go under the motor mounts, but you shouldn't have to.
 
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CRUZE 418 said:
You do not have to loosen the motor mount nut in the k-member. You loosen the bracket to the engine block! 3 bolts on each side. You can make a small shim to go under the motor mounts, but you shouldn't have to.
Click to expand...
Loosen the bracket bolts...?
 
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