Got some of my engineering friends to help me print out a clutch master cylinder mount. Looking to get it machined now.
Clutch Master Cylinder Mounting
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That is very slick, what kind of clutch cylinder is that?
That's a Wilwood
mygasser
Well-Known Member
From experience you may need to back bleed the system with the master mounted at that angle. Easy enough, just pump/push fluid in at the bleed nipple end until all the air comes out the reservoir. It can be messy but always works for me. I use a top plunger type garden weedkiller spray thingy with the gun cut off of the hose which then pushes onto the nipple.
Neil.
Neil.
It looks like the geometry between the clutch pedal and the push rod will not give you enough stroke, if any.
In my opinion the push rod needs to be more horizontal.
In my opinion the push rod needs to be more horizontal.
70chall440
Mopar or No Car...
Are you going to be using a Hydraulic TB?
Thanks for the tip, It'll be a while before I'm ready to bleed.
Its setup the same as any of the hydraulic kits you can buy. This linkage runs through the same hole in the firewall where the original clutch linkage runs. I Can't remember the stroke of the master, but its less than 2".
This setup is for a 5.7 with a TR6060 from a '10 Challenger, using the stock throwout bearing
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
I like that mount. It looks like this one in this guys challenger. I'd like to try it out. Maybe make a few of them...
I have an american powertrain mount, which is okay.
I didn't like the Wilwood slave cylinder because the output hit the inner fender, So I searched and searched and found a Tilton with the same stroke, and mounting style, only the output is on top, AND the overall length is also shorter, so that helps it get away from the inner fender, and kept me from having to either make a dent there or cut and weld clearance in that area.
I have an american powertrain mount, which is okay.
I didn't like the Wilwood slave cylinder because the output hit the inner fender, So I searched and searched and found a Tilton with the same stroke, and mounting style, only the output is on top, AND the overall length is also shorter, so that helps it get away from the inner fender, and kept me from having to either make a dent there or cut and weld clearance in that area.
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
question,
When converting an automatic A body over to a manual, planning to use a hydraulic TOB, is it necessary or recommended to strengthen the firewall in the area of the clutch cylinder mount to reduce flex?
When converting an automatic A body over to a manual, planning to use a hydraulic TOB, is it necessary or recommended to strengthen the firewall in the area of the clutch cylinder mount to reduce flex?
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
Yes it is. Some guys weld a reinforced plate in that area and if you look at the picture of the yellow challenger you can see he has a brace from the clutch slave cylinder to the inner fender.
that mount is perfect!!!....I would buy one for my silver Hemi Duster. IF you make more than one (to defray your expenses), please let me know.
Looks like no grinding / drilling required and for some of us with "finished" firewalls....you have the answer.
I have found the "universal" mount required modifying the factory hole....and the inner fender dented for clearance. The Titon slave solves that issue.
Looks like no grinding / drilling required and for some of us with "finished" firewalls....you have the answer.
I have found the "universal" mount required modifying the factory hole....and the inner fender dented for clearance. The Titon slave solves that issue.
Found someone to produce them. Trying to figure out how many to get made, and what type of package to put together. I would like to sell the mounting block with a backing plate and the hardware necessary to mount it. I could also include the linkage if people were interested, but prefer not to maintain a hardware inventory of parts I don't sell and don't need.
I see that Wilwood is making master cylinders similar to the Titon now: Wilwood Disc Brakes - Master Cylinders: GS Compact Remote Master Cylinder
I don't think I could get a hose on mine without pounding the fender in a little, It would definitely be better to have options that eliminate cutting or hammering, especially for the cars that are already painted.
Machinist told me he would produce after Christmas. As soon as I have them I will let you know!
Please let me know when kit is out as I would want one to for my duster
goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
Looks nice. I do know you will absolutely not have the right amount of pedal throw. You'll need to change the ratio of the pedal to something like 6:1 for it to work like it should. You will have approximately 4.3:1 currently. You may find this adjusts your angle slightly too, which is no issue with the American Powetrain type mount.
I cover this in my T56 Magnum swap thread: T56 Magnum Conversion
I cover this in my T56 Magnum swap thread: T56 Magnum Conversion
They are produced and will be shipped this week. I'll find out about the pedal stroke when I get it installed, but from my measurements I think it'll be adequate.
goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
This is the action on mine. You'll either bottom the master cylinder early or the pedal will sit very low without changing the ratio. In either case, the action will be a lot like a light switch
goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
When you moved your connection point farther out, you increased the stroke of the pedal?
goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
I actually moved it closer to the center of the pedal. The formula is the length from the center of the pivot point to the center of the pedal pad divided by the length from the center of the pivot point to the center of the mounting hole for the linkage. It will have to be on the cross piece but it will be closer to the vertical pedal arm than it is on a stock one. The length of the bar I welded on is roughly the same length as the original just in case I didn't make the first hole correctly. Turns out I was right the first try,.
It's just 1/4" bar from Home Depot welded on as a lap weld over the original.
It's just 1/4" bar from Home Depot welded on as a lap weld over the original.
Ah, I was thinking you moved the mount farther out since you welded that piece on. I drilled the hole out where the pin originally was. Do you know the distance you moved the hole?
goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
Its 1.9" radially center to center from the pivot pin, rotated to be in the center of the cross bar. From my notes it was approximate 2.625" radially before.
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