Comp cams xe268h for 318

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realistically though a $300 budget is just going to get the cam that he has in there the oil change the brake in and oil change the gaskets that go bad the gasket sealant the alternator that subsequently goes bad along with the ballast resistor! damn it!! and the whole $300 budget was gone long time ago...

LOL! And all I really needed was a rear mainseal!

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Here's your answer on a low budget. You will install the rear end eventually. Why not now? A teen with a 3:73 willburn tires for a city block. You might not get 20mpg/Hwy so don't expect that. There is no magic bullet here.
Ok so let's go with that then I will keep the cam I have and install it and spend the money I would have on a different cam on the rear axle and look for deal on a stall TC. Maybe even mill the heads a little bit to add compression if I can scrape the money after the rear. So I have a few questions about the TC and the rearend. First the Tc this is going to sound stupid but I really don't get this so please yell at me lol. My stock tc has teeth it for the starter to engage. I was looking at some after market tcs and they dont have the teeth on them what am I missing there do you have to buy a plate or something to attach to it ? Second has anyone ever ran a 8.8 without narrowing it? And I asked it ^^^^ but I will ask again what is the average cost for milling a set of heads ?
 
realistically though a $300 budget is just going to get the cam that he has in there the oil change the brake in and oil change the gaskets that go bad the gasket sealant the alternator that subsequently goes bad along with the ballast resistor! damn it!! and the whole $300 budget was gone long time ago...
I started with 1k that was gone 500$ dollars ago!
 
So with the summit cam I have now a 2800 stall will be an improvement?
Absolutely yes,but I would not install that cam until I knew were the advertised was measured from, and if I didn't like the answer, I'd still throw it away. 278/288/112 with lifts of .421/.444,and .050s of 204/214 I wanna say;what a waste of a core/blank. Well 10 minutes on U-tube proves it; it idles like a 278/288 measured at .006
That will make the ICA around 68 to 70 degrees , which will kill any weakazz cylinder pressure you mighta had as a stocker.The Dcr works out to 6.1 with an 8.0Scr starting point. The 2800 is like putting a band-aid on a gushing wound.OK well maybe that's an exaggeration,lol. But I wouldn't even put that cam in my 367@ 11.3 Scr.
 
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Absolutely yes,but I would not install that cam until I knew were the advertised was measured from, and if I didn't like the answer, I'd still throw it away. 278/288/112 with lifts of .421/.444,and .050s of 204/214 I wanna say;what a waste of a core/blank. Well 10 minutes on U-tube proves it; it idles like a 278/288 measured at .006
That will make the ICA around 68 to 70 degrees , which will kill any weakazz cylinder pressure you mighta had as a stocker. The 2800 is like putting a band-aid on a gushing wound.
Thanks for your help. That is the only cam that I have tho so it's either that cam and gears or new cam and stock gears no funds to do both! What do you suggest?
 
1) 2800TC


2) gears and SureGrip
3) 4bbl
4) compression
5) small fast-rate cam and kit
4/5 combo) at this time you might install that 6900. But if you optimize the compression for it, then you're married to the 69ish ICA.
I'd rather be married to a 59* ICA; which could be a
256/262/112,or a 262/268/110, or a 268/276/108,or even a 276/284/106 ; all of these can be installed at ICA of59*,and make good easy cylinder pressure. So many more options. Each one of those will move the power peak up about 200 rpm, with NO change in cylinder pressure.
The teener is too small to waste cylinder pressure.
 
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not for 2.76 gears; you need the 2800
I think in a previous post I used 280ftlbs at 2800 to get 2800x2.45x2.76=1623ftlbs into the rear tires, just enough to spin both rear tires like 255/60-15s
At 2500 she might make just 200ftlbs so 200x2.45x2.76=1352 not enough.
 
So I have been reading a crap ton and I have found some very positive reviews on the sum 6900 cam. And I found some old post on here ppl even recommending it. They said that the slow ramps was not as bad as a killer as ppl make claim especially in a daily driver. So screw it I'm building this damn thing with what I have I guess if it's a turd it will be my turd and I'm gonna polish that orange bastard!!! :rofl:
 
It's not a bad cam............. with a 2800TC, and at least 3.55s
But with an 1800TC the rpm is slow enough to keep the intake in reversion, bleeding cylinder pressure back into the intake, making it sound like a top-fueler, while making the engine gutless............. and the 2.76 gears keep it in the gutless zone until near 25/30 mph.
And when it finally starts building pressure, it is still just a 204/214/112 cam. Just about 1.5 sizes bigger than stock. You'd be better off with a good used factory 360 2bbl cam. IIRC those were 252/256/112, and can be installed at ICA of 56 to 59*, right on target; and that cam will make great fuel mileage.
 
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It's not a bad cam............. with a 2800TC, and 3.55s
But with an 1800TC the rpm is slow enough to keep the intake in reversion, bleeding cylinder pressure back into the intake, and making the engine gutless.............and the 2.76 gears keep it in the gutless zone until near 30 mph.
In the near future that mph will be lower with the 3.73 gears in the mean time I will keep her above 30mph lol thanks aj
 
It would be nice to see some pics of your car, and what we are working with here. For $300.00 I'm thinking a nice tune up, and a nice detail. Engine,gears,stall,exhaust, it's all going to add up way more. Pics of your car, and what it has, would help me spend your $300
 
Apologies for the thread derail.

Regarding Comp stuff, why is that? Hardening? Ground for smaller tappets? Poor quality control? Poor customer service? I am not trying to be a smart ***, I'd just like to know because I am considering one of the following cams for a 1991 hydraulic roller LA360 build I am working on, shooting for a 9.5:1 compression with machining block and possibly the heads, pistons, and gaskets.

Lunati 20200712
Voodoo Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Cam - Chrysler 273-360 282/290 - Lunati Power
Requires 2800 stall
This will most likely require a new torque converter, as my current TC is a 2400 stall

XR274HR-10
20-811-9 - Xtreme Energy™ Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshafts
requires 2000 stall, and I can get away with a 9:1 compression
I can keep my current 2400 TC

XR280HR-10
20-812-9 - Xtreme Energy™ Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshafts
requires 2500 stall
Maybe I can squeak by with my current TC 2400 stall.

As it stands with the above three, I am kinda leaning towards the Lunati, and will eat a lot of Ramen, peanutbutter and oatmeal and spend that few hundred grocery bucks on a new TC.

I know I will have to go with new springs no matter what I get, even if I decide to just go with a mechanical flat tappet which I would actually prefer, since I really dislike the large mass hydraulic roller lifters when compared to mechanicals, which require lighter springs. (It looks like I'm going to want to talk to AJ about some math regarding speeds, gearing, tire size, HP, and rpm at the traps, and I've been procrastinating on that, heh).
Sorry but I would trash all your "Hydraulic" choices.
If you want street performance use a solid flat tappet.
If you want track performance use a solid roller setup
Save your money and stay away from hydraulic lifters they are problematic and rob performance.
 
All you said is true but the op isn't building a race engine, just perking up a 318 on a budget. Hydraulics aren't that bad. Billions of engines have been built with them.
 
All you said is true but the op isn't building a race engine, just perking up a 318 on a budget. Hydraulics aren't that bad. Billions of engines have been built with them.
I understand, but, I will not agree with you.
Myself and many others have suffered to many hydraulic failures and spent too much $money chasing issues related to hydraulic lifters. Sorry, just the facts.
I stand by my prior statement.
 
Howdy,
I built my 318 and run the xe268 cam
However
- alloy heads (65cc)
- block was milled to zero deck
- use kb167 pistons
- ld4b manifold
- hei ignition
- Holley sniper
- Factory 3.23 gears
- stock 904 t/c opened up and modified to about a 2100rpm stall
- comp ratio is about 9.6:1
- use 273 valve train with Toyota Corolla 4K pushrods
Next step will be headers, have some block huggers to go on, not much else will fit due to the steering box (rhd car) and possibly programmable ignition timing to work with the sniper

Car drives really nice, seems most comfortable at about 830 idle rpm, has a nice lope to it

 
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I understand, but, I will not agree with you.
Myself and many others have suffered to many hydraulic failures and spent too much $money chasing issues related to hydraulic lifters. Sorry, just the facts.
I stand by my prior statement.

Perhaps you were running a very popular inferior brand, and are forming an opinion of a good (million and millions in use today) street cam, based on a shitty manufacturer. jmo
 
I understand, but, I will not agree with you.
Myself and many others have suffered to many hydraulic failures and spent too much $money chasing issues related to hydraulic lifters. Sorry, just the facts.
I stand by my prior statement.
Just curious what type of abuse and rpm do you see failures? From daily driving? Idle to 4500? Street cars? Yea i can see it with 8000+rpm and race engines Baja trucks pulling trucks etc but a lazy 318 cruiser I dont see hydra lifters being an issue.
 
It would be nice to see some pics of your car, and what we are working with here. For $300.00 I'm thinking a nice tune up, and a nice detail. Engine,gears,stall,exhaust, it's all going to add up way more. Pics of your car, and what it has, would help me spend your $300
Ask and you shall receive I have a thread in the members restoration section please check it out if you want. I started with 1000$ I started with the safety stuff new brakes new bushings ball joints steering gear basically everything suspension steering and brakes is new! Iv got new wheels and tires (not installed yet obviously) new leaf springs etc. Well that took more than I expected so ran into problems indidnt expect I had to replace my lcas and torsion bars. Anyways long story. I'm now about 1500 in.

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Howdy,
I built my 318 and run the xe268 cam
However
- alloy heads (65cc)
- block was milled to zero deck
- use kb167 pistons
- ld4b manifold
- hei ignition
- Holley sniper
- Factory 3.23 gears
- stock 904 t/c opened up and modified to about a 2100rpm stall
- comp ratio is about 9.6:1
- use 273 valve train with Toyota Corolla 4K pushrods
Next step will be headers, have some block huggers to go on, not much else will fit due to the steering box (rhd car) and possibly programmable ignition timing to work with the sniper

Car drives really nice, seems most comfortable at about 830 idle rpm, has a nice lope to it


That is awesome sounds and looks great! If I had the money to do machines work that is what I'd do!
 
Let me clear up the engine build. I screwed up from the beginning. I had a good running 318 from a truck that I bought for parts to fix up my 85 every day driver. So I pulled the engine and had planned on just freshen it up with new gaskets but then I figured I'd go ahead and get a new cam too since it was already gonna be disassembled. I had a 340 intake and headers and a Holley carb laying around from years ago so I figured I may as well use them too so I just ordered the cam without asking questions. Then a few months later I started a thread on here basically to just get ideas about what I should do with my build as far as timing chains timing carb settings etc. But everyone told me my combo was crap so I ditched it. Now several months later again iv saved up some more money and was gonna get a new cam I was just about set on the luniti voodoo but then I a good deal on the comp thus the creation of this thread. The xe268h was never in my consideration I just found it and it was a good deal I figured I should ask. But after this thread and reading alot of other threads I'm just gonna stick to the original plan build it. So here is what I have I have a 86 318 "302" heads home port job. Summit 6900 cam 278/288 duration 421/444 lift 112 lob separation matching lifters stock 1971 340 spread spreadbore intake and a holley 1850 carb and full length headers 2.5 dual exhaust. And I have a set of new thrush mufflers I may or may not use we will see how loud it is.
 
Perhaps you were running a very popular inferior brand, and are forming an opinion of a good (million and millions in use today) street cam, based on a shitty manufacturer. jmo
If you guy's are having a difficult time with this just research Hydraulic roller issues on this forum.
I dont dispute that there are millions of OEM hydraulic systems on the road that are great, the after market performance stuff is a different story. If you dont believe me ask Yellow Rose what he thinks of hydraulics.
I have been burned in the past, it wont happen again.
 
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