Comp cams xe268h for 318

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I did not say trash the Crane/Detroit cams are QUALITY and run a long time and have few warranty problems- a byproduct of their mild ramps
but a lobe designed for the larger lifter can have mild ramps and still have more area under the curve than an .842 profile- simple geometry
The Mopar Performance and Engle .904 grinds are an example of reasonably mild ramps with more area- Howard appear to be more aggressive- Lunati somewhere in the middle
Crane also has mild 904 profiles but since they evidently are not mass produced are special order, Bullet has a full line special order
That said if new in the box Summit will exchange- what other brands to they carry? Lunati, Howard, Engle?
 
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I did not say trash the Crane/Detroit cams are QUALITY and run a long time and have few warranty problems- a byproduct of their mild ramps
but a lobe designed for the larger lifter can have mild ramps and still have more area under the curve than an .842 profile- simple geometry
The Engle .904 grinds are an example of reasonably mild ramps with more area- Howard appear to be more agressive- Lunati somewhere in the middle
Crane also has mild 904 profiles but since they evidently are not mass produced are special order
That said if new in the box Summit will exchange- what other brands to they carry? Lunati, Howard, Engle?
Unfortunately that ship has sailed it's been more than 90 days I'm not paying shipping and a restock fee on a 71 dollar cam lol! Forgive me but I'm not sure what you mean by .904 ? I'm a noob.
 
Awesome, it's the exact combo I'm about to screw together for my VG coupe, how do you rate the sniper?

Oh man it runs so good with the sniper. Transformed the car. Had a rebuilt 600cfm Holley on it that made the car run and go fine. But the sniper transformed it.
Great cold and hot starting now and runs hard at any rpm and doesn’t feel like it’s choking up in the top end anymore.
Ended up retaining the standard tank and using an undercar surge tank. Has a pierburg lift pump which feeds a 1.8l surge which then feeds a Bosch 070 efi pump. Bought another fuel line to act as a return line and run it next to the original supply. Have the surge overflow line routed back into the filler neck tube

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Andrew
 
DAmn- 71 dollars to get a baseline cam- what's not to like
The universal chevrolet lifter is .842 diameter FORD .875 MOPAR .904 Mushroom Flat Tappets over 1 inch
if you use all of the lifter you can get more acceleration with a larger lifter
or you can get the same acceleration with less strain on the parts- your choice
The NASCAR Chevy motors used cams designed for FORD lifters before they went to rollers
it just gives you an edge
the popular comp XE268 was designed in 1977 by Harold Berkshire and was considered one of his best efforts for it's time for a chevy lifter
He use state of the art computer for 1977 and used the same one for years- whatever works
later he did cam series for Ultradine - now Bullet and some Lunati but IDK if he ever did a .904 series maybe early voodoo- check with Lunati
I do not think he did a .904 series hyd for ultradine We used some of his early cams from General Kenetics his later series are better
UDHarold died way too soon
He had a different method/ philosophy than the Ed Winfield/ Engle/ Dick Jones (et all) and the Clay Smith school is also quite different
 
I have the 318 with stock 904 (999 lockup), stock torque converter, stock 2.76:1 ratio rear, and the Comp K20-212-2 kit (268/268). It putters around "ok" and theoretical top speed at redline is like 170 mph (stock 15" tires). I kind of doubt it would actually run that fast, and there's not a chance I would try it anyway, but it cruises at 70 mph at 2,000 rpm. Green light acceleration is pretty bad. Sounds menacing at idle. Mileage is still the pits, idling creates smell of gasoline, I suspect the large overlap (plugs all read good).
Like, before the cam the compression was 150 psi all-around, but after the cam, compression only hits about 110 psi: overlap. Idles at about 8” mercury vacuum.
Stock heads, I feel like I should possibly upgrade those. RPM aluminum intake, headers. I agree with the sentiment to update the rear end, one of the latest Roadkill garage segments they put together a brand new Ford 9" underneath a Dodge & looked like a pretty nice deal for roughly $2,500. I'm not a hot rodder, I don't drag race at all, so in my particular case the stock converter works just fine (if I ever use the power it's strictly rolling into some revs). If I was doing it again I'd choose a less radical cam, but now that I've got it - I'm not swapping it back out! I'm not displeased :)
 
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Sealed Power CS644 cam, 340 275 horse reproduction cam. Operating range 1500 to 4500 rpm, 114 degree lobe separation, I-210/E-220 @ .050, lift I-.429/E-.442 lift. With headers, it sounds great and pulls hard with the stock converter and 2.76 gears. Hard enough, in fact, to let me know the 7-1/4 is soon to go the great scrapyard in the sky!
 
With a 904 and 25 inch tires, I am topping out at nearly 55 mph in first gear at 4300 rpm, at which point the carter bbd two barrel and iron intake becomes the limiting factor. If You don't attempt maximize the low rpm torque in this engine combo, it won't get out of it's own way...
 
My 2 cents worth...

There are so many members here that know way more than you or I will ever know about cams, engines, combo's etc. And I respect them greatly for their help, as I'm sure you do. The problem, in my humble opinion, lies in frame of reference. What you mean by "budget build" can and will mean something entirely different to another. "Acceptable" performance to you will also mean something entirely different. I could post my combo here and I know it would get ripped apart - and for good reason. I know there are alot of reasons it's not a `good' combo.

But the thing is, I'm driving it, enjoying it, getting compliments on it and having fun participating in the hobby. I won't win very many races, I can't do a burnout for fear of destroying my 7.25 rear end, and I'm OK with all that. A big chunk of my budget went to body and paint, because I can't do that stuff myself. So I had less to work with for mechanical, but finding parts here and there that were maybe a second choice but more affordable worked for me. Because I wanted to get the car DONE and on the road. I was getting tired of WAITING for money for this part of that. And make no mistake, this IS an expensive hobby.

It sounds like you started focused on getting the car solid, suspension, brakes and such - excellent choice. By all means, keep asking for help here, you will certainly get all you need from so many intelligent contributors. But keep your target in sight - concourse restoration, show winner, daily driver, rat rod. Then spend accordingly. There's a boatload I still want and should do to my car, but it would still be sitting in my garage, waiting. And I would be getting frustrated, and impatient, and bored. And maybe start not enjoying so much.

So, what are you trying to accomplish - at this point?. I don't doubt the target may change, but at this point, what are you aiming for - on the road ASAP? Willing to wait a year, 2, 3...? Do you want every nut and bolt polished no matter what the time or cost? Is your priority to drive it as soon as you can or to "finish" it before it goes on the road.

Dave
 
I love this thread so much cuz Im currently putting together a 318 thats getting the Comp XE268H cam, 360 heads, a Weiand intake, and either a Holley 600 carb or an Edelbrock; Im leaning towards the Holley. I cant wait for the disappointment!!!
 
I love this thread so much cuz Im currently putting together a 318 thats getting the Comp XE268H cam, 360 heads, a Weiand intake, and either a Holley 600 carb or an Edelbrock; Im leaning towards the Holley. I cant wait for the disappointment!!!

You forgot to mention the 10/1 pistons.
With that cam,those heads,a big-port intake, and on the street, with a street TC and street gears; Cylinder Pressure is gonna be of prime importance.
Cylinder pressure, on the track,is perhaps less important because the engine only runs thru the soft zone once, and with a BIG TC and Race gears, that only takes milliseconds.
But in a streeter; pressure makes it possible to run less TC and less gear, and have a more fun combo. Your street teener can't afford to give up pressure, unless you also run race gears and a BIG TC. 3.55s and a 2800 are barely gonna cut it. Your combo might end up with cranking pressure of 120psi@130ft elevation. ............. which makes the low rpm really really soft . If your new combo is stuck with an 1800TC and 2.76 gears, it is gonna be a total dog up to about 25/30 mph. The 2800TC will get you almost past that, but the 2.76 gears are gonna keep you in first gear to 65/70 mph,so you are not gonna win any ET awards.So then to remedy that, some guys run 3.91s or better with 360s and that cam.
On the Street, the gear to TC ratio is kindof a balancing act. More gear allows less TC and more TC allows less gear. If you need to keep Hiway cruising in mind, well that throws a monkey wrench into the mix, and the usual cure is more cubes or less cam. More cubes allows less TC, and less cam makes more pressure so ACTs like a bigger engine.
But maybe you already know all that... I'm just trying to help.
 
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My 2 cents worth...

There are so many members here that know way more than you or I will ever know about cams, engines, combo's etc. And I respect them greatly for their help, as I'm sure you do. The problem, in my humble opinion, lies in frame of reference. What you mean by "budget build" can and will mean something entirely different to another. "Acceptable" performance to you will also mean something entirely different. I could post my combo here and I know it would get ripped apart - and for good reason. I know there are alot of reasons it's not a `good' combo.

But the thing is, I'm driving it, enjoying it, getting compliments on it and having fun participating in the hobby. I won't win very many races, I can't do a burnout for fear of destroying my 7.25 rear end, and I'm OK with all that. A big chunk of my budget went to body and paint, because I can't do that stuff myself. So I had less to work with for mechanical, but finding parts here and there that were maybe a second choice but more affordable worked for me. Because I wanted to get the car DONE and on the road. I was getting tired of WAITING for money for this part of that. And make no mistake, this IS an expensive hobby.

It sounds like you started focused on getting the car solid, suspension, brakes and such - excellent choice. By all means, keep asking for help here, you will certainly get all you need from so many intelligent contributors. But keep your target in sight - concourse restoration, show winner, daily driver, rat rod. Then spend accordingly. There's a boatload I still want and should do to my car, but it would still be sitting in my garage, waiting. And I would be getting frustrated, and impatient, and bored. And maybe start not enjoying so much.

So, what are you trying to accomplish - at this point?. I don't doubt the target may change, but at this point, what are you aiming for - on the road ASAP? Willing to wait a year, 2, 3...? Do you want every nut and bolt polished no matter what the time or cost? Is your priority to drive it as soon as you can or to "finish" it before it goes on the road.

Dave
Thanks Dave I gotta say we think alot a like this post hits very close to home to me. My goals is to get it running and driving and road worthy first. Then get the body work and paint done. Then focus on performance. Ie gears TC etc. This thread really took off I'm glad it did cause I have learned alot from it. I want to get the car running by winter I'm not sure if I'm gonna make it or not. I ran into some speed bumps that slowed me down alot of it was my fault. Basically indecision I never came up with a solid plan I had ideas and then when I started I kept changing my mind. And then some of it I didnt do my research and bought some of the wrong parts and had to rebuy them. Ie the cam lol I wish I would have started a post here before ordering my cam but it didnt. But I am just gonna stick with it. Then I bought the wrong control arm bushings and strut rod bushings had to reorder all that lol. Then the body I was gonna just do a cheap single stage enamel paint job but I decided to spend more on it and do a bc/cc to get a nicer longer lasting finish! But I'm finally back on track I have a plan and I'm gonna stick to it.
 
I love this thread so much cuz Im currently putting together a 318 thats getting the Comp XE268H cam, 360 heads, a Weiand intake, and either a Holley 600 carb or an Edelbrock; Im leaning towards the Holley. I cant wait for the disappointment!!!
Let me know how it turns out when your finished I want to know.
 
I have the 318 with stock 904 (999 lockup), stock torque converter, stock 2.76:1 ratio rear, and the Comp K20-212-2 kit (268/268). It putters around "ok" and theoretical top speed at redline is like 170 mph (stock 15" tires). I kind of doubt it would actually run that fast, and there's not a chance I would try it anyway, but it cruises at 70 mph at 2,000 rpm. Green light acceleration is pretty bad. Sounds menacing at idle. Mileage is still the pits, idling creates smell of gasoline, I suspect the large overlap (plugs all read good).
Like, before the cam the compression was 150 psi all-around, but after the cam, compression only hits about 110 psi: overlap. Idles at about 8” mercury vacuum.
Stock heads, I feel like I should possibly upgrade those. RPM aluminum intake, headers. I agree with the sentiment to update the rear end, one of the latest Roadkill garage segments they put together a brand new Ford 9" underneath a Dodge & looked like a pretty nice deal for roughly $2,500. I'm not a hot rodder, I don't drag race at all, so in my particular case the stock converter works just fine (if I ever use the power it's strictly rolling into some revs). If I was doing it again I'd choose a less radical cam, but now that I've got it - I'm not swapping it back out! I'm not displeased :)
I find the above post pretty refreshing. The first 2 paragraphs are honest and show what would be expected. (The bolding is mine. And the gas smell may be helped by tuning.)

The last paragraph shows a core of the problem in these discussions..... comparative info from cam swapping by the same individual in the same use. I suspect that author of the above post is happy to have a fun running car, but has had no opportunity to learn of the improvement a better matched cam offers. That would show the reality, but too often folks who have not done any of this say "this cam is fine/great", but really don't know the difference. I would expect that if the author of the above put in a 2 step smaller cam, he would give an honest report of a sizable improvement in the negative areas mentioned. None of this is unique knowledge.

IMHO the OP would help himself to find out more on how these longer cams with low compression are actually being used by users who say they are OK (like cruise or drag race), and also figure out the preferences of the users, which enters into this more that he is aware. I'd suggest this even if he continues with his present cam selection just for knowledge and perspective.

And yes, limited funds are what they are, and I really do understand that. BTDT racing with limited funds, learned the lessons. Try a 5.7 DCR like I did years back and you will know LOL. You won't be far off with the low 6's DCR that you're heading for, but you will be far worse off since this engine will not rev to 7.7-8k like the one I did it in, and I had a manual trans and could slip the clutch like crazy at launch. (Hence the higher stall TC suggestions.)
 
Good! The price had me worried that you did not have them.

If I may ask: If a more suitable cam fell into you lap, would you use it instead?
Yes for sure! I have been looking at other options I have a selected a few. If I have any money left after I get everything else I need I will get a different cam. But when it comes time to put the engine together I will use it if it's all I have
 
As a streeter, I gave up a 292/292/108 for a 270/276/110, And the truth is I was way happier. If I was to do it again, I would still install the smaller cam, and pump up the compression, and sacrifice just about everything else I had to, in order to fit it into the budget. There is just no substitute for good take-off power, cuz every single time you take off with a poor combo, you will be reminded about it. And every time you go to pass someone, and the trans has to kick down two gears and all it does is roar, well there's another Reminder. And every time you realize that the combo seems to consumes a lotta gas..... for the enjoyment it's giving you, well, that's another Reminder.
 
If I get the money before the engine gets put together I will probably go with the xe256 or xe262. I have a lot of work to do to get the body brakes suspension and steering up to par if I have money after that ( or a better cam falls in my lap) I will upgrade If not I will use what I have and then say yall told me so Haha. Lol I also want to upgrade my carb and I'd like to upgrade pistons but once again the money is up. I would like to find a set of 273/318 floating pinned rods and attached a set of higher cr pistons but unless I find a deal on a used set I dont see it being doable.
 
I have a question for the ones of you who say the summit (crane) or whatever it is grind is trash. And let me start by saying that I have great respect for you and acknowledge your experience and knowledge. But have you ever actually ran or drove a engine with the cam or you just saying its trash based on the numbers? Because I have read at least 10 or more reviews with ppl completely happy with it summits website has 3. One of them is a 4x4 360 he even commented on how great the low end torque was. So I'm curious have you had a bad experience with it or you just saying its trash based on the numbers on the paper? I get it the ramp like 74 is not ideal for cylinder pressure the 112 lobe separation doesn't help bottom end either but surely it cant be that bad cause summit still makes and sells these things after all these years. There is one video of a guy running it sounds pretty stout to me you can see the car squat at about 30mph and sounds like he is spinning. So like aj said less than 30mph its probably not gonna be set no 60ft records but I'm not racing this car it's a driver. So please let me know if you have any hands on experience with this(these) cam and again this is completely a respectful post.
Sorry for the long post to follow:

It is not this specific cam or engine, but the DCR that results from low static compression ratio and a too large cam predicts the result. I've run from a low of 5.7 DCR (lower than probably anyone here and for racing 6-7 THOUSANDS of rally stage miles, where you need a good broad torque band to be fast) to 8.3 DCR on the street and KNOW the difference from first hand experience. For the street driver application, all that has been said about low RPM torque needs is spot on. Your Summit cam is just plain and simply gonna put the DCR in the low 6's with consequent very poor low RPM torque.

Your setup is heading for what has been warned against over and over; you can find lots of threads about this in FABO, so it is not matter of guessing. See my above posts about my thoughts on why these are listed as 'OK' by some.... I truly don't think they know the difference, or they use the car for drag racing, not a street driver, and so don't really care about, or see, the situation in the same way. As for Summit reviews..... they'll filter out the bad ones LOL so IMHO it's quite unwise to rely on those.

IMHO these cams get sold mostly because they are cheap. Which is what took you there in the first place... perfectly understandable. I raced for over 10 years with a very limited budget, starting while still paying for my own college, and that, PLUS not listening to good advice because I did not have a thorough grasp on DCR and how it predicted performance, took me to select a 300 advertised duration cam. (Yes, I thought top end HP was the end-all and be-all.) With a 7.6 SCR (like your 318), that ended up with the 5.7-ish DCR.

Result: engine would putter around 'OK' (like said in post #130) but was had no usable torque at all below 3700-3800 RPM. I am not fooling. Above that RPM, it took off, and I was saved somewhat by an engine that could rev to 8k and a 3.73 rear gear and smaller tires and a 2500 lb car. But it would have been faster rally car with a 2-3 steps smaller cam; the 2-3 gear step really sucked on the hills where the engine would 'fall off the lower end of the torque curve on the upshift. Rally car use is a LOT more like spirited street driver use than drag racing use, so that situationo is MORE applicable than drag racing.

This was an Opel 1.9L CIH engine, but it the same technology and operating principles as the SBC's and SBF's and SBM's. So don't believe it will be any different; it will not. You're gonna have good torque starting somewhere in the high 2k to low 3k range, going up to where the flow chokes or the valves float somewhere in the 5k range. Less than a 2:1 usable RPM range..... Your car's advantage over my Opel case is just in a better cubic inch versus weight ratio but with much poorer gear+tire ratio, it's guaranteed to struggle to get moving.

How much more real experience do you want? That's all I got.... (Well not all, but it relates the best to your situation. Someday I can describe how a 0.8 increase in static CR helps a turbo engine... from my actual experience.) Long term, it's up to you to decide if you will put your belief in blindly following unqualified subjective opinions, versus accepting the use of numbers to help you grasp where things will fall out. And please understand, I don't get hung up on difference in DCR of 0.1 or 0.2 points... but differences of 0.5 points or more will really show up in low RPM performance. Just like a change of 4 degrees in cam timing will really be felt in a street driver. (Yes, more actual experience in making that specific change.)

Starting with your 318's low SCR, you're only going to get so good, but it's discouraging to me to see it made worse. That's the reason I keep coming back to this and trying LOL.
 
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