nates68
Well-Known Member
Oh and my noisy borgeson box was over boosted with the van pump. I put in a 2.0 gph flow control valve from jegs. It’s better but still a bit light even with 7 degrees of caster!
I love your set up and that's exactly what I want. Unfortunately with LA heads, I don't have the required holes to bolt up the Magnum stuff anymore. I am kinda stuck converting to a LA timing cover/water pump so I can run the LA serpentine stuff that bolts to the water pump.Here’s my 68 barracuda with the van bracket and magnum 5.9 truck brackets on everything else (it’s the ac delete alt bracket). Works great. I did relocate battery to trunk, which I assume you will too with your build.
Nates68
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I'm going to try and see what I have to do to make the Magnum stuff work. I already have the timing cover, water pump, alternator, 2 piece balancer & pulley, and R&P pump. It would be huge If I could make the van PS bracket work
So i've been working more on my Dart lately and i've hit a big snag. I planned to make my own serpentine brackets and reuse the Dakota RT alternator, water pump, and power steering pump. Unfortunately, I cut up the original brackets to mount everything and now i'm left trying to figure out the best, most economical accessory drive. I can't reuse the Dakota RT PS pump because it is a low pressure pump for rack and pinion. So now i'm looking at piecing together a system. I have the original 340 front cover so I guess I could go that route and run LA accessories, but with the RPM i'm turning I will not run a V-belt system. I was hoping to reuse the magnum balancer I have and if possible the magnum alternator. PLEASE HELP!
That's exactly what I did in the pic. There's a missing idler pulley above the water pump that the belt will go under before going to the PS pump. It will use a factory belt as well going this route.You can just buy a shorter serpentine belt that goes right under the a/c pulley to bypass it, then lop off that part of the bracket that mount the ac pump all together. If you have an air pump too, ??, you'll have to figure a similar plan.
Thank you for the offer. I actually just pulled it out of the old parts pile from the tear down from the magnum. My tool and die buddy stopped by last night and we have a pretty good plan. He’s going to machine a 1” template off the hole spacing on the iron magnum heads to use to layout and drill the holes into the LA heads so everything bolts up correctly. I’ll keep everyone updated with the progress.FYI: I have an idler for the Magnum if you need one.
Set it up the old school way, serpentine style doesn’t look cool in a classic car!So i've been working more on my Dart lately and i've hit a big snag. I planned to make my own serpentine brackets and reuse the Dakota RT alternator, water pump, and power steering pump. Unfortunately, I cut up the original brackets to mount everything and now i'm left trying to figure out the best, most economical accessory drive. I can't reuse the Dakota RT PS pump because it is a low pressure pump for rack and pinion. So now i'm looking at piecing together a system. I have the original 340 front cover so I guess I could go that route and run LA accessories, but with the RPM i'm turning I will not run a V-belt system. I was hoping to reuse the magnum balancer I have and if possible the magnum alternator. PLEASE HELP!
I just looked it up and your engine is CLEAN, looks great! I'm glad others have made the truck serpentine set-ups look good. Most Magnum serpentine setups looks bulky and out of place on an A-body. I will hopefully make mine look as clean as yours and others.Click on my photo. This is my serpentine set up. Mostly factory from a 99 Dakota, less the power steering. Also, use an underdrive pully on the water pump. I run a 3.91 sure grip and at 75 MPH engine stays a 180.
Not trying to influence you, just showing an end result.
Good luck with it all.
I would tend to agree if I were building a cruiser. But my car will be a high RPM road car and V-belts just wouldn't last long at all. I'm just glad I'll be able to finish my accessory drive with the parts I already have plus the van PS bracket I bought. Sometime function can look as good as form if done right. Plus most classic car guys won't like my car when I pull up with fat 18" wheels so I don't need to worry about them seeing my engine lol.Set it up the old school way, serpentine style doesn’t look cool in a classic car!
Hahah that’s a good point lolI would tend to agree if I were building a cruiser. But my car will be a high RPM road car and V-belts just wouldn't last long at all. I'm just glad I'll be able to finish my accessory drive with the parts I already have plus the van PS bracket I bought. Sometime function can look as good as form if done right. Plus most classic car guys won't like my car when I pull up with fat 18" wheels so I don't need to worry about them seeing my engine lol.
Thats not a bad idea. Can you post up a pic please.On that valve cover, a socket hit with a hammer made a nice u shape spot for clearance. I have the same ones, just put a thick rubber boot over the connector as well.
Thank you, that looks really clean and barely noticeable. I think this is the best route and how I will move forward.View attachment 1715643995It’s pretty close but it would have to take a bracket failing or something major for it to hit, plus the rubber cover makes it look closer. I was concerned the weld would pull apart but it was fine. I have used the same technique on header clearance issues, looks cleaner than the sledgehammer method!
Here’s my 68 barracuda with the van bracket and magnum 5.9 truck brackets on everything else (it’s the ac delete alt bracket). Works great. I did relocate battery to trunk, which I assume you will too with your build.
Nates68
View attachment 1715624523
View attachment 1715655506 7k905 is what the belt has marked.