plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
This thread needs to be a sticky!!
I am extremely happy to report that not only did the hoop fit, it fit perfectly! Like it was made for it. NO ADDITIONAL CUTTING HAD TO BE DONE.
Disclaimer: I do not support choosing a transmission based on how much cutting you will have to do. This is a multi-thousand dollar investment that transforms the car in many ways, so I think you should choose which transmission you prefer based on the trans itself and nothing else. You will have to cut the upper part of the crossmember regardless, that is a fact. So whether you have to trim the floor more or less, in my opinion, shouldn't be a big factor. I chose the TKX because it is truly the trans I wanted/preferred, and I have several reasons for that. If you want a T-56 the ToddRonn Restorations piece will perfectly replace the hoop (~$600 iirc), and if you want the TKX the BHS578 ($170) will perfectly replace it as well. Or you can always fabricate something. I fabricate for survival, not for fun, and I know I could have never made something this nice and mechanically sound, so I will gladly pay that price for it!
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Fired it up for the first time last night with the TKX!
Full disclosure: Yesterday I had to trim the hoop a little bit to fit. As suspected by several here, it contacted the TKX at the top and the 4 bolts that hold the crossmember in place would not line up all the way. It's very close, but just a little trimming got it home.
Thank you @DionR !! It's all thanks to you, man. If you hadn't told me about that part months ago, I would probably still be scratching my head.
Yes, definitely going to contact Holley and Silver Sport and tell them all about it! I just wanna drive it first to ensure all is well. Especially if they are going to start recommending it to other people, I have to be extra careful.
The picture below is after the cut. Very small trim, took 5 minutes. I was so excited I didn't take any pics of the trimmed hoop out of the car.
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Looks like you've convinced me! I was on the fence about T-56 vs TXK but seeing how you didn't have to hack out the entire middle of the floorpan and fab a new one made the decision for me. The floors in my '70 Duster are mint and I like not having a giant hump in the middle.
Looks like you've convinced me! I was on the fence about T-56 vs TXK but seeing how you didn't have to hack out the entire middle of the floorpan and fab a new one made the decision for me. The floors in my '70 Duster are mint and I like not having a giant hump in the middle.
I did some soul searching after seeing this install.
Best I can tell the TKX should feel pretty similar to a 2.66 first A833 up to 4th, but with the advantage of an extra gear dropping high way RPM's by about 700. First is deeper on the TKX, but overall I bet it feels about the same.
The thing is, the TR6060 adds another gear and saves about 1200 RPM over the A833 on the highway and probably feels stronger in every gear.
For someone that is mostly running around town and only does limited or moderate highway miles, the TKX seems like a perfect swap. Add that based on this thread the install seems easier, pretty much a win-win for most. The OP talked about this and I suspect that for him it was exactly the right choice.
For me, the TKX puts my highway RPM's within 60 RPM of my current setup. While the better gear spread with 4 gears below OD versus 3 would make it much more enjoyable around town, I spend too much time on the highway and want to road trip my Duster so I want an even lower cruise RPM than the TKX will give me. For that reason alone I am going to stick to my original plan of swapping a TR6060 into my car when I do the GenIII swap.
Oh yeah, that "giant hump"....
Stock Duster with an auto and console
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My Duster with a T56 and console... (yes I need the carpet piece for my console)
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I agree, and I love the T56. This is my breakdown for 2,500 rpm, which is about the bottom end for cruise for my 340. At 3k rpm I'm at 55 in 4th, so usually for highways I'm in 4th or 5th depending on how I'm driving and how straight/level the road is. I can cruise downhill in 5th easily but if I'm accelerating I downshift to 4th. 6th is basically my freeway gear, she just hums along at 75
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Yeah yeah... lol. I did see the pics of your sheetmetal work making the new tunnel, I'm not confident I'd have the skills or patience to make it that "tight". I'm also not running a console which hides most of the bulk and while it would be sweet to have one it would look out of place since the rest of my interior is original and not in great shape.
I think you're selling yourself short! I had to do more welding because of the previous 4 speed conversion, for a straight auto to T56 it would be a little easier. I'm not some master bodyman either, I did all that welding with a 1971 Millermatic 15 with a Tweco gun conversion and Harbor Freight .030 wire, it's definitely NOT high tech or the best sheet metal set up. And no sheet metal tools or anything, just a couple hammers, dollies and clamps. I also wasn't trying to keep the tunnel small, if anything I made it larger than it needed to be in a lot of places so I would have easier access to stuff from below.
Here'e a picture before I added the console, this a 4 speed carpet (the hole is from the old 833 shifter location). Needs a vacuum and my fan controller tucked out of the way but you get the idea.
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Here's a link to pix of an actual kit car with this cross member installed:So, I've been doing some research into further improvements for my car and part of that was tracking down some of the out of print books from Steve Smith (thanks @autoxcuda for your contributions to that old "reading list" on Moparts) because they included pictures and explanations for some of the modifications on the old Petty Nascar builds and some of the kit cars.
One of the books I managed to get ahold of was "Building the Race Car Picture By Picture" by Steve Smith, S110, 978-0936834108. All the catalog numbers are here Amazon product ASIN 0936834102, I didn't pay anywhere near this price for mine FYI.
Anyway, one of the gems in that book are pictures of the Petty Enterprises torsion bar crossmember, which had a part number and everything I assume for purchase for the kit cars etc. Anyway, it weighed 125 lbs and was used because of how much it added to the torsional rigidity of the cars. Keep in mind, those were cars with full cages, and they STILL used a 125 lb reinforced torsion bar crossmember, in a race car where weight was crucial. Think about that.
Bottom line is, I wouldn't have done it before, but there is now absolutely, positively, not a snow ball's chance in hell I would run a torsion bar car without the upper hoop of the torsion bar crossmember. Makes me feel much better about going with the heavy duty T56 crossmember I used, and much less like that was "overkill".
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I think you're selling yourself short! I had to do more welding because of the previous 4 speed conversion, for a straight auto to T56 it would be a little easier. I'm not some master bodyman either, I did all that welding with a 1971 Millermatic 15 with a Tweco gun conversion and Harbor Freight .030 wire, it's definitely NOT high tech or the best sheet metal set up. And no sheet metal tools or anything, just a couple hammers, dollies and clamps. I also wasn't trying to keep the tunnel small, if anything I made it larger than it needed to be in a lot of places so I would have easier access to stuff from below.
Here'e a picture before I added the console, this a 4 speed carpet (the hole is from the old 833 shifter location). Needs a vacuum and my fan controller tucked out of the way but you get the idea.
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Excellent work. Did you have to relocate the floor brackets for the console install?