Cooler intake manifold

[rumblefish360]

I think in terms of operating temp. If you can keep the intake @ 180*’s, it’ll be fine. I don’t know what kind of changes 20*’s brings around in ether direction for YOUR build but I do know what it does on MY BUILD.

On my next build, it very well will be different. A lot of this depends on what your asking of the engine and car to do. For anybody wondering, this is really a trail and error thing. The dyno helps in much but on actual driving conditions, I’m sure it’ll change.

I’ve noticed for myself, driving with a thermostat lower than 180*’s doesn’t always make for the happy engine in driver conditions. 180-195 (180* thermostat) is where I find the best temps on an engine/car that is to be driving around town, traffic, Hwy. etc…. That also use defrost &/or heat.

I use the 160* stat in the heavier hitting engines.

 

[Brooks James]

This is incorrect and outright wrong but he is on the right thinking track. Here’s why!

Salt, in itself, does nothing, I repeat, NOTHING to lower the temperature of any liquid, PERIOD.

What salt does allow is the ability to change the boiling or freezing point of water.

What this means, IF you can accomplish this, is the ability to get the cool can’s water below the freezing mark. This is a minor Benefit at best because the now colder than 32*F - 0*C water surrounds the fuel line for sure.

On the issue of how cold gasoline can be before it becomes frozen or even a slushy mix, I don’t know. Also, more food for thought, how dense can fuel get from chilling? A smart *** says, to the point where it starts to freeze, but is it any denser where a measurable gain is seen? AKA - Is it worth the effort?

Do the research

 

[AJ/FormS]

For a streeter; here are my opinions;
>The fuel only has to be just cool enough to Not percolate in the bowls. Any cooler is a waste of time, because getting fuel into the mixture is not a problem. Forget the cool-can. Instead, if you experience hot-fuel issues, run a return line to the tank and purge the hot fuel to it. Less cost/zero maintenance.
>Air density only gets to be a thing when racing, or with big power. Around town If you can spin the tires to 50 mph, you obviously already have enough power. And by 50 mph, the hot underhood air is being rammed out the bottom. Forget the cold air intake, until you fix your traction issues.
> at 350 hp or less, forget the carb spacers. You are not gonna see a difference on the street, until you fix your traction issues.
>If you are running headers, and, your cam has more overlap than about 40degrees, then you NEED to block the heat crossover to make sure the scavenge cycle works on those center cylinders. If you don't, you are giving up power beginning at about 3500 rpm.
> throttle-plate icing occurs over a very small temperature range and a very high humidity index. There are other ways to deal with it in a car that is not normally driven in those conditions.
> What your minimum coolant temperature is hardly matters, cuz as soon as you slam the pedal down. the temperature will begin to rise .......... and on the street, you cannot keep the pedal down for more than about 6 seconds, cuz you will be doing over 65 mph. As to your cooling system, it is far more important to control your MAXIMUM coolant temperature. This has NOTHING to do with your thermostat. This has everything to do with; 1) the ability of your system to get rid of heat. AND 2) the tune in the engine to Not make excessive heat in the first place.
These are my opinions

 

[Bewy]

Cooler for power. Yep, every time at or or around peak HP & below that too. Anybody who has been driving the same car long enough knows the car feels more sluggish on very hot days compared to cold weather driving. That is the cooler air making more power. However, at cruising & low speeds, lack of manifold heat can cause poor drivability/roughness. Another benefit of cooler air is less chance of detonation. You should probably experiment, see how it works on YOUR combo.

Beware of spacer 'stories'. I know of one gentleman on another forum who claims his engine gained 102 HP [ not a misprint ] when he added a 1" open spacer to his engine.
For $25, said spacer would obviously be the hottest selling horsepower improver at Summit......

 

[rumblefish360]

Do the research

Contacted two people on this before I double checked.

 

[AJ/FormS]

On the issue of how cold gasoline can be before it becomes frozen or even a slushy mix, I don’t know. Also, more food for thought, how dense can fuel get from chilling? A smart *** says, to the point where it starts to freeze, but is it any denser where a measurable gain is seen? AKA - Is it worth the effort?

If the "it" refers not to density, but to the temperature, then it seems to me, that for the question of; "Is it worth the effort?",
the answer might be yes; but only if it solves a percolation issue.
But I think we all know that getting an amount of fuel into the engine, commensurate with the mass of air it is getting, is not a problem; and I know that is not what you meant.

To the OP:
But consider this, when the gasoline changes state from a liquid to a gas, in the intake tract, it takes huge amounts of heat to do that, so it is literally sucking the heat out of the adjacent materials........ including the air that is present there. The moving air itself can be cooled by it.
In other words; say you are idling around town at some low rpm, and your cooling system has stabilized at 180. The headers are running at 450* in the first 6 inches. The rad is running at or near 180, and so is the air coming thru it. All that air is mixing around and by the time that air gets to the airhorn, it could be at say 250*. As soon as it enters the carb, the temp starts dropping. The first drop occurs in the boosters and venturies. Then it gets into the 180* plenum, where the gas picks up heat to vaporize. This pulls down the temp of the whole AFR mixture. Then it scoots off towards the chambers still pulling heat out of the adjacent materials. At some point, the fuel is fully vaporized and air starts to pull heat out of the runners and begins warming up again. Then it gets into the ports where the cast iron says; not here you won't! and the adjacent water jackets put a lil heat back into the charge. Finally the intake valve opens and the headers "yank" the mixture into the chamber. So from ambient temp coming into the radiator to into the combustion chamber, the inlet air density has been riding a roller coaster of temperature and density changes.
>Does your engine, at this time, care about air density?
At this time, No it does not; you will just be driving with the throttles ever so slightly further open, and your mixture screws adjusted accordingly.
But say you step on the gas.
Well firstly, say you have an auto-trans and the typical 3.23 gears, and your speed is 32 mph. You are in "drive", and the rpm is 1300;
So you step harder and she kicks down into Second. The rpm rises to 2200.
>Does your engine, at this time, care about air density?
No it does not.
So you step harder and she kicks down into First. The rpm rises to 3600, but you are not yet floored.
>Does your engine, at this time, care about air density?
No it does not.
Your engine will not care about air density until the engine asks for more cfm, than the carb can supply, or the engine is pulling all it can.
So you finally floor it, from 32 mph , in First gear, doing 3600rpm. With the right cam, you are now at close to max efficiency, so pulling 420 cfm .
>Does your engine, at this time, care about air density?
Not much, and only if you have a 420 cfm carburator
So you wait. By 4500/41mph, the engine is losing efficiency. The air flow requirement might be 480 cfm. You have a 650 on it.
>Does your engine, at this time, care about air density?
Yes but only if there is a car in the next lane, that is gaining on you..
By this time, the engine is pulling say 480 cfm; that is all she can do in the present state of tune, so the more oxygen molecules in those cfms the better.
By 5400/49mph still in First gear, your airflow requirement might be 532 cfm.
You have a 650 on it.
>Does your engine, at this time, care about air density?
I think by this time, yes. The coolant temp is rising. The exhaust temp is skyrocketing. The IAT is climbing. The fan together with road speed, is jamming hot air under the hood , and so......
Time to shift and the Rs drop to 3200/3300; oh my.

Now if I remember rightly, from my snowmobile tuning days, a decrease in ambient temp of 20* was one jet change richer at WOT, to match the increased air density.
So if you feed your carb ambient air at say 85*, instead of 250*, that is a temp difference of 165*, which is 8 jetsizes ....... in theory, to a snowmobile.

In practice, my carb wanted only one jetsize all around, at WOT.
Back to the quote;

Is it worth the effort?

For me; sorta;
I now have a big hole in my one-time pristine 1968 Barracuda hood, and
I now have no hot-fuel issues running 87E10 on an Airgap intake, and
The 295s spin occasionally to 80 mph instead of 60 ............. so that's something ....... I guess,lol.
But she did go 93 in the Eighth with this set-up. Jus saying. No before and after..... lol.

 

[rumblefish360]

@AJ/FormS If I’m reading this right…

Your making the effort to chill the fuel to sub 32*’s.

 

[flyfish]

Do the research

Hey Brooks, I think you and Rumble are saying the same thing, there was just a key word missing from your post. Salt will lower the temperature of ICE water (not plain water). I'm assuming that was what you meant, it just didn't make it through the keyboard into your post.

Rumble is correct, that adding salt to plain water will not change the temp.

 

[Professor Fate]

Beware of spacer 'stories'. I know of one gentleman on another forum who claims his engine gained 102 HP [ not a misprint ] when he added a 1" open spacer to his engine.

Oh, I believe it. I also believe that spacer had nitrous nozzles in it.

 

[pishta]

anyone seen a comparison of a blocked heat crossover to a stock heat crossover on a Performer intake? Enginemasters episode? Id like to weight the advantages (power) to the disadvantages (driveability) of a cold intake. VW aircooled heat the intakes (not IDA) to get their motors to run better.

 

[Rat Bastid]

I think in terms of operating temp. If you can keep the intake @ 180*’s, it’ll be fine. I don’t know what kind of changes 20*’s brings around in ether direction for YOUR build but I do know what it does on MY BUILD.

On my next build, it very well will be different. A lot of this depends on what your asking of the engine and car to do. For anybody wondering, this is really a trail and error thing. The dyno helps in much but on actual driving conditions, I’m sure it’ll change.

I’ve noticed for myself, driving with a thermostat lower than 180*’s doesn’t always make for the happy engine in driver conditions. 180-195 (180* thermostat) is where I find the best temps on an engine/car that is to be driving around town, traffic, Hwy. etc…. That also use defrost &/or heat.

I use the 160* stat in the heavier hitting engines.

If the 160 lost some performance or the engine just wasn’t happy, that’s a good sign that the fuel wasn’t being atomized enough coming out of the booster. When that happens you get too much liquid fuel in the chamber. That’s why it was happier at 180. That extra heat helps vaporize the fuel more so less liquid fuel enters the chamber.

Of course you can over atomize the fuel out of the booster. If that happens with too much heat in the engine the fuel will vaporize too much and it takes up an incredible amount of area in the ports. Then you lose power.

Atomization and vaporization go hand in hand. You need both without too much of either.

And then there is the bugaboo of the distillation curve, which can be near impossible to find on pump gas. You can get it for race fuels pretty easy.

If the fuel has a lot of light ends in it, you have to be careful that you don’t over atomize the fuel out of the booster Andover heat it once it gets into the plenum.

If the fuel has less light ends in it, then you need to atomize it more and maybe even raise the engine temp some to get it happy.

It’s tricky when you really start looking into it, and pump gas is very difficult to get a handle on because it’s like the wild, Wild West. You can have the same octane rating (which doesn’t mean much but I digress), the same amount of ethanol and have wildly different distillation curves. It can drive you crazy.

 

[AJ/FormS]

@AJ/FormS If I’m reading this right…Your making the effort to chill the fuel to sub 32*’s.

Rob; I don't know how you extracted that from my post, but if you did, then others will too, so yeah I musta left something out, altho I don't know what it could be.
So then the response is no! ,
cooling the fuel has never entered my mind. I mean I have heard of guys doing it at the track; but in a DD or a street machine like mine, I thought it would
NEVER "be worth the effort."
In my thinking, there were easier ways of preventing percolation.. The AirGap was my first line of defense.
My cooling system runs at exactly 205 to 207, at a particularly marked spot on the intake. The engine does have fresh air now, because in the HotRod World, freshAir has always been the go-to thing to do. Because the coolant and inlet air temperatures are stable, I can tune it for that temperature, and performance varies only as to the temp of ambient, which in the hottest months here in Manitoba varies less than about 20* from daytime-hi to night-time low. But from morning to evening is half that. That is about a HALF a jetsize.
--------------------
BTW-1
for those that might want to know, modern gasoline is blended from about 20 different types of combustible fuels. Some have boiling points of over 400* and some as low as 90*.
Those 400 guys will not boil until inside the chamber.
Those 90* guys are trying to boil on the way to the chamber. It is these guys that initiate starting when your engine is cold.
The in-betweeners are all vaporizing at different temps, so may be disassociating on the compression stroke, already.
If 10% of your fuel is going out the tailpipe because the particles survived the inferno in the chamber; that costs you power, economy, and cash. My wars against this are;
1) to run at 207* to keep the chambers hot, and
2) freshair to keep the air cool,
3) I run the AG in a bid to prevent percolation
4) I run a double pumper so that if it should happen that my fuellevel should fall overnight, I have two bowls from which to pump whatever may be left.
5) I run alloy heads at 11/1. for a couple of reasons;
....5) alloy heads are very good at sucking heat out of the chambers. So, at low-loads/low-rpms I don't have a problem with detonation and even at 11.3 Scr, I never had detonation problems.
....5b) and my heads with 3-coats of Hugger-Orange paint on them, are slow to change temp, at WOT. I found that I could run full-timing as soon as 3400, without detonating on 87E10. 3400 in First gear is 25mph..... or would be if the tires were not spinnining. But in my combo, and could be in yours too, IDK, she hits 7000 right out the gate and just hangs there until 100 mph or more. NO! the CenterForce is Not slipping.
6) I run a 2-stage timing curve; fast to 2800 then slower to all-in @3400
7) com'on eh; WOT never lasts for more than 5 or maaaybe 6 seconds. By 7.9, including 2.2 or more seconds in the 60ft, from a standing start, my car is doing 93 mph, and may still be hazing the tires, they say. So
cooling the fuel might be a thing for racers, but to me, in my street-combo, it is not.
BTW-2;
hmmmmm this has momentarily escaped me, due to the one-finger typing-speed lag. I'll let my brain simmer on it.
BTW-3;
at 6000 rpm your engine is turning 100 times per second. it is firing FOUR cylinders on every revolution. On my 367, each chamber is; swept plus total-chamber volume equals 830cc. Lets say the VE at 6000 is 80%, therefore she is inhaling 664 x4=2656cc of air per revolution. Times 60 seconds and converting to cfm; I get 563cfm..
ok/ok I get that 6000rpm is not gonna get you anywhere close to 100% VE, so then lets back up...
My 367 at 100% if it could ever get there, would be
830/ 16.387 x 4 x 6000/ 12^3 = 680 cfm..
The formula for carb selection is ;
(cid x rpm)/3450= cfm. Therefore; 367 x 6000 divide by 3450= 638cfm...
680 is within 3% of what the formula predicts.

I tried a big TQ on an Excellerator, cuz I had them/ but didn't like it.
I tried a 600VS cuz I had it, on the AG, but didn't like it.
I tried a 750VS cuz I had it, on the AG, but didn't like it.
I tried a 750DP cuz I had it, on the AG, and finally liked something.

Happy HotRodding

 

[Rat Bastid]

Rob; I don't know how you extracted that from my post, but if you did, then others will too, so yeah I musta left something out, altho I don't know what it could be.
So then no, cooling the fuel has never entered my mind. I mean I have heard of guys doing it at the track; but in a DD or a street machine like mine, I thought it would
NEVER "be worth the effort."
In my thinking, there were easier ways of preventing percolation.. The AirGap was my first line of defense.
My engine runs exactly 205 to 207, at a particularly marked spot on the intake. It does have fresh air now, because it has always been the go-to thing to do. Because the coolant and inlet air temperatures are stable, I can tune it for that temperature, and performance varies only as to the temp of ambient, which in the hottest months here in Manitoba varies less than about 20* from daytime-hi to night-time low. But from morning to evening is half that. That is about a HALF a jetsize.

BTW for those that might want to know, modern gasoline is blended from about 20 different types of combustible fuels. Some have boiling points of over 400* and some as low as 90*.
Those 400 guys will not boil until inside the chamber.
Those 90* guys are trying to boil on the way to the chamber. It is these guys that initiate starting when your engine is at -30*F.
The in-betweeners are all vaporizing at different temps, so may be disassociating on the compression stroke, already.
If 10% of your fuel is going out the tailpipe because the particles survived the inferno in the chamber; that costs you power, economy, and cash. My wars against this are;
1) to run at 207* to keep the chambers hot, and
2) freshair to keep the air cool,
3) I run alloy heads at 11/1. for a couple of reasons;
....a) alloy heads are very good at sucking heat out of the chambers. So, at low-loads/low-rpms I don't have a problem with detonation and even at 11.3 Scr, I never had detonation problems.
....b) and my heads with 3-coats of Hugger-Orange paint on them, are slow to change temp, at WOT. I found that I could run full-timing as soon as 3400, without detonating on 87E10. 3400 in First gear is 25mph..... or would be if the tires were not spinnining. But in my combo, and could be in yours too, IDK, she hits 7000 right out the gate and just hangs there until 100 mph or more. NO! the CenterForce is Not slipping.
....3) I run a 2-stage timing curve; fast to 2800 then slower to all-in @3400
....4) com'on eh; WOT never lasts for more than 5 or maaaybe 6 seconds. By 7.9, including 2.2 or more seconds in the 60ft, from a standing start, my car is doing 93 mph, and may still be hazing the tires, they say. So
cooling the fuel might be a thing for racers, but to me, in my street-combo, it is not.

BTW;
at 6000 rpm your engine is turning 100 times per second. it is firing FOUR cylinders on every revolution. On my 367, each chamber is; swept plus total-chamber volume equals 830cc. Lets say the VE at 6000 is 80%, therefore she is inhaling 664 x4=2656cc of air per revolution. Times 60 seconds and converting to cfm; I get 563cfm..
ok/ok I get that 6000rpm is not gonna get you anywhere close to 100% VE, so then lets back up...
My 367 at 100% if it could ever get there, would be
830/ 16.387 x 4 x 6000/ 12^3 = 680 cfm..
The formula for carb selection is ;
(cid x rpm)/3450= cfm. Therefore; 367 x 6000 divide by 3450= 638cfm...
680 is within 3% of what the formula predicts.

I tried a big TQ on an excellerator, cuz I had them/ but didn't like it.
I tried a 600VS cuz I had it, on the AG, but didn't like it.
I tried a 750VS cuz I had it, on the AG, but didn't like it.
I tried a 750DP cuz I had it, on the AG, and finally liked something.

Happy HotRodding

Cooler fuel is denser fuel. Denser fuel takes a smaller main jet. The cooler you can consistently get it the better. If you get it cold at the track and then don’t cool it to the same degree driving down the road it will be rich.

 

[Rat Bastid]

Rob; I don't know how you extracted that from my post, but if you did, then others will too, so yeah I musta left something out, altho I don't know what it could be.
So then no, cooling the fuel has never entered my mind. I mean I have heard of guys doing it at the track; but in a DD or a street machine like mine, I thought it would
NEVER "be worth the effort."
In my thinking, there were easier ways of preventing percolation.. The AirGap was my first line of defense.
My engine runs exactly 205 to 207, at a particularly marked spot on the intake. It does have fresh air now, because it has always been the go-to thing to do. Because the coolant and inlet air temperatures are stable, I can tune it for that temperature, and performance varies only as to the temp of ambient, which in the hottest months here in Manitoba varies less than about 20* from daytime-hi to night-time low. But from morning to evening is half that. That is about a HALF a jetsize.

BTW for those that might want to know, modern gasoline is blended from about 20 different types of combustible fuels. Some have boiling points of over 400* and some as low as 90*.
Those 400 guys will not boil until inside the chamber.
Those 90* guys are trying to boil on the way to the chamber. It is these guys that initiate starting when your engine is at -30*F.
The in-betweeners are all vaporizing at different temps, so may be disassociating on the compression stroke, already.
If 10% of your fuel is going out the tailpipe because the particles survived the inferno in the chamber; that costs you power, economy, and cash. My wars against this are;
1) to run at 207* to keep the chambers hot, and
2) freshair to keep the air cool,
3) I run alloy heads at 11/1. for a couple of reasons;
....a) alloy heads are very good at sucking heat out of the chambers. So, at low-loads/low-rpms I don't have a problem with detonation and even at 11.3 Scr, I never had detonation problems.
....b) and my heads with 3-coats of Hugger-Orange paint on them, are slow to change temp, at WOT. I found that I could run full-timing as soon as 3400, without detonating on 87E10. 3400 in First gear is 25mph..... or would be if the tires were not spinnining. But in my combo, and could be in yours too, IDK, she hits 7000 right out the gate and just hangs there until 100 mph or more. NO! the CenterForce is Not slipping.
....3) I run a 2-stage timing curve; fast to 2800 then slower to all-in @3400
....4) com'on eh; WOT never lasts for more than 5 or maaaybe 6 seconds. By 7.9, including 2.2 or more seconds in the 60ft, from a standing start, my car is doing 93 mph, and may still be hazing the tires, they say. So
cooling the fuel might be a thing for racers, but to me, in my street-combo, it is not.

BTW;
at 6000 rpm your engine is turning 100 times per second. it is firing FOUR cylinders on every revolution. On my 367, each chamber is; swept plus total-chamber volume equals 830cc. Lets say the VE at 6000 is 80%, therefore she is inhaling 664 x4=2656cc of air per revolution. Times 60 seconds and converting to cfm; I get 563cfm..
ok/ok I get that 6000rpm is not gonna get you anywhere close to 100% VE, so then lets back up...
My 367 at 100% if it could ever get there, would be
830/ 16.387 x 4 x 6000/ 12^3 = 680 cfm..
The formula for carb selection is ;
(cid x rpm)/3450= cfm. Therefore; 367 x 6000 divide by 3450= 638cfm...
680 is within 3% of what the formula predicts.

I tried a big TQ on an excellerator, cuz I had them/ but didn't like it.
I tried a 600VS cuz I had it, on the AG, but didn't like it.
I tried a 750VS cuz I had it, on the AG, but didn't like it.
I tried a 750DP cuz I had it, on the AG, and finally liked something.

Happy HotRodding

1). Too hot. You are giving away power. Atomize the fuel out of the booster better and drop the coolant temp. Then change the tune up accordingly.

2). Yep. The cooler the better.

3). Unless you purposely load the engine to death, head materiel doesn’t matter.

3). You’ve got 3 twice but I’ll work around that. That curve is just about perfect.

4). Don’t know about that. Could be true, I just don’t know.

Gasoline has always been made up of multiple hydrocarbons. That’s why getting a distillation curve helps. If you can get it.

 

[AJ/FormS]

3). Unless you purposely load the engine to death, head materiel doesn’t matter.

3). You’ve got 3 twice but I’ll work around that. That curve is just about perfect.

4). Don’t know about that. Could be true, I just don’t know.

Sorry man I did some editing after the initial post cuz I forgot them.
But I get what you are saying.

 

[rumblefish360]

I agree. The car was a all year round vehicle that didn’t like the winter so much. The 180 stat went back in and all was good there after. Heat, defrost & good drivability.

If the 160 lost some performance or the engine just wasn’t happy, that’s a good sign that the fuel wasn’t being atomized enough coming out of the booster. When that happens you get too much liquid fuel in the chamber. That’s why it was happier at 180. That extra heat helps vaporize the fuel more so less liquid fuel enters the chamber.

Of course you can over atomize the fuel out of the booster. If that happens with too much heat in the engine the fuel will vaporize too much and it takes up an incredible amount of area in the ports. Then you lose power.

Atomization and vaporization go hand in hand. You need both without too much of either.

And then there is the bugaboo of the distillation curve, which can be near impossible to find on pump gas. You can get it for race fuels pretty easy.

If the fuel has a lot of light ends in it, you have to be careful that you don’t over atomize the fuel out of the booster Andover heat it once it gets into the plenum.

If the fuel has less light ends in it, then you need to atomize it more and maybe even raise the engine temp some to get it happy.

It’s tricky when you really start looking into it, and pump gas is very difficult to get a handle on because it’s like the wild, Wild West. You can have the same octane rating (which doesn’t mean much but I digress), the same amount of ethanol and have wildly different distillation curves. It can drive you crazy.

 

[Rat Bastid]

I agree. The car was a all year round vehicle that didn’t like the winter so much. The 180 stat went back in and all was good there after. Heat, defrost & good drivability.

Yeah, a defrost is big time important if you drive year around.

 

[Dan the man]

Yeah, a defrost is big time important if you drive year around.

There sure is a lot of good information on this. So if I run aluminum heads and intake manifold would I benefit from a 1" carb spacer, heat shield, lifter valley baffle and a 180* thermostat? Looks like a factory cold air set up would be a good idea for me. I don't want the manifold to be to cool. I'm not going to be driving the car in the winter time so I won't be needing a heater. In fact the heater hoses will be removed. Is there a water pump available with out the heater hose outlet? Should I even run aluminum heads on the street? For my application would I be better off with a set of 5.2 magnum heads if I can find a set that's not cracked. I'm wanting a closed chamber head so I can run the pistons at zero deck, this helping compression, flame travel, detonation.

 

[rumblefish360]

How many questions can Dan squeeze in one post?

So if I run aluminum heads and intake manifold would I benefit from a 1" carb spacer, heat shield, lifter valley baffle and a 180* thermostat?

Possibly…… every engine is different. Try it on yours now.

Is there a water pump available with out the heater hose outlet? Should I even run aluminum heads on the street?

W/P? Yes, the factory race unit at around $600 - ish dollars IIRC
Take a stock pump and ether cap it off or cut the tops off and drill and tap for a Allen head set plug. I like cutting the heater hose and filling with RTV. Ugly as sun but yet effective.

Aluminum heads on the street? Sure! Why not?

For my application would I be better off with a set of 5.2 magnum heads if I can find a set that's not cracked.

All Magnum heads are the same on both engines.

 

[Dan the man]

How many questions can Dan squeeze in one post?




Possibly…… every engine is different. Try it on yours now.

W/P? Yes, the factory race unit at around $600 - ish dollars IIRC
Take a stock pump and ether cap it off or cut the tops off and drill and tap for a Allen head set plug. I like cutting the heater hose and filling with RTV. Ugly as sun but yet effective.

Aluminum heads on the street? Sure! Why not?


All Magnum heads are the same on both engines.

Guess I asked to many questions, sorry.

 

[rumblefish360]

Guess I asked to many questions, sorry.

Not at all. I guesssssss, you could organize them instead of a scattering in a paragraph…

No worries Dan, just pulling your chain a bit.

 

[Dan the man]

Not at all. I guesssssss, you could organize them instead of a scattering in a paragraph…

No worries Dan, just pulling your chain a bit.

K. Thanks

 

[Professor Fate]

Is there a water pump available with out the heater hose outlet?

What setup are you running?
If it's the '69 and earlier iron water pump (driver's side inlet), just take out the heater nipple and screw in a pipe plug.
If it's the '70 and later aluminum pump (passenger side inlet), cap it with a rubber cap and hose clamp. Or, you could try something like this from Speedmaster, that doesn't have the heater or bypass:
PCE® Water Pumps, Mechanical PCE195.1108 | Buy Direct with Fast Shipping (speedmaster79.com)
There's others, too- I'm thinking Edelbrock and Milodon, maybe Flowkooler...

 

[AJ/FormS]

I used to run my alloy-headed 367 DD usually from May long weekend to September long weekend; sometimes from Easter, occasionally to as late as October 10. It ran a Hughes 223/230/110 cam, and a 750DP; no choke, no concessions ... other than the Jacob's dash-mounted, dial-back, timing module. Sure I had to babysit her for a minute or maybe two on cold mornings.
Have you put a scanner on your EFI car to see what the factory does with the cold timing? Think high 30s to mid 40s at idle, increasing with rpm, until you give her more throttle. Check also the step count on your AIS motor; which may not be that far open..... Most of us, with non-stock engined carburated cars, already have a working Idle-Air Bypass system, in the form of, holes drilled thru the primaries........ so then, all a high-compression engine needs is a bit of extra advance, during the warm-up.
Chokes are for people who want to go back inside and drink coffee, and maybe their behinds get offended by cold seats. I don't drink coffee/ car has cloth seats.
In winter, same car, ran a lo-compression 318; with a Thermoquad, and yes a choke. But usually with a 904 and a 2800stall. And yes, with block-heaters too, and studded snow-tires. What a hoot that car was.
I still don't drink coffee.
Three things I can guarantee you;
1) I will never smoke cigarettes, and
2) I will never drink coffee, and
3) I will never be willingly jabbed.
4) there are more but ...

 

[AJ/FormS]

My heatercore is my bypass. The factory bypass has been severely restricted. Up here we have many many cold or high-humidity mornings, even in summer. And if I get caught in the rain, you can bet I will need the defroster. But in the hottest days of summer,like all three of them, I clamp the hoses shut.