Decent handling susp setup?

[72bluNblu]

Yea price is not my concern. I can get the hellwig for about half the price as the other two but I don't mind spending more money if the larger 1.5 bars are better than the 1 1/8 hellwig bars. Are the other two that much better than the hellwig?

It's not really a matter of which is "better". The best sway bar is the one that has the correct rate for the rest of your suspension set up, so that you get the effective wheel rate you need. Hellwig sells a hollow 1.125" front sway bar (that I run), Hotchkis sells a hollow 1.25" sway bar. QA1 has also recently released a 1.25" hollow front sway bar https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-52861/overview/year/1974/make/plymouth/model/duster, which conveniently costs less than a Hotchkis front bar, but more than a Hellwig. FirmFeel sells a 1.25" hollow front sway bar as well, it actually costs more than the Hotchkis bar does.

Ideally, all of these companies would just publish the rates of their sway bars (none of them do). And the larger diameter bars aren't necessarily stiffer, because these are all hollow bars the stiffness depends on the wall thickness too, which also isn't published. Bigger isn't always better anyway, you want your wheel rate to be correct for the rest of your suspension set up. If you run really big torsion bars you might not want the stiffest sway bar available because your wheel rate could end up being too high. If you run smaller torsion bars you might want the stiffest sway bar you could find. And if you run crappy tires, well, you probably wouldn't want a whole lot of sway bar at all. Just depends. I picked the Hellwig bar because I couldn't see paying that much extra for the Hotchkis bar for an 1/8" outer diameter difference, especially running 1.12" torsion bars already.

Here's a decent article on sway bars. They actually cover how to find what the working rate of the sway bar is on your car, which is even better than just having the calculated rate because even sway bar bushings can change the working rate. Realistically though, unless you're competing for time at a high level, any of those sway bars will probably be just fine.

Sway Bar Rating Techniques - Circle Track Magazine

 

[thanson_mopar]

It's not really a matter of which is "better". The best sway bar is the one that has the correct rate for the rest of your suspension set up, so that you get the effective wheel rate you need. Hellwig sells a hollow 1.125" front sway bar (that I run), Hotchkis sells a hollow 1.25" sway bar. QA1 has also recently released a 1.25" hollow front sway bar https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-52861/overview/year/1974/make/plymouth/model/duster, which conveniently costs less than a Hotchkis front bar, but more than a Hellwig. FirmFeel sells a 1.25" hollow front sway bar as well, it actually costs more than the Hotchkis bar does.

Ideally, all of these companies would just publish the rates of their sway bars (none of them do). And the larger diameter bars aren't necessarily stiffer, because these are all hollow bars the stiffness depends on the wall thickness too, which also isn't published. Bigger isn't always better anyway, you want your wheel rate to be correct for the rest of your suspension set up. If you run really big torsion bars you might not want the stiffest sway bar available because your wheel rate could end up being too high. If you run smaller torsion bars you might want the stiffest sway bar you could find. And if you run crappy tires, well, you probably wouldn't want a whole lot of sway bar at all. Just depends. I picked the Hellwig bar because I couldn't see paying that much extra for the Hotchkis bar for an 1/8" outer diameter difference, especially running 1.12" torsion bars already.

Here's a decent article on sway bars. They actually cover how to find what the working rate of the sway bar is on your car, which is even better than just having the calculated rate because even sway bar bushings can change the working rate. Realistically though, unless you're competing for time at a high level, any of those sway bars will probably be just fine.

Sway Bar Rating Techniques - Circle Track Magazine

Fair enough, thanks for the info. I will start off with the hellwig.

 

[pauly v.100]

Was mentioned already, but worth repeating..
BF Goodrich T/As are hockey pucks and will render those suspension improvements useless.

 

[thanson_mopar]

Was mentioned already, but worth repeating..
BF Goodrich T/As are hockey pucks and will render those suspension improvements useless.

Yep, it's been mentioned a few times now. That's what I had on the car but I'm going to totally different route now that I'm actually trying to get the car to handle. Wish there were more 15 inch performance tire options just to appease the musclecar guys

 

[72bluNblu]

Yep, it's been mentioned a few times now. That's what I had on the car but I'm going to totally different route now that I'm actually trying to get the car to handle. Wish there were more 15 inch performance tire options just to appease the musclecar guys

Yeah there are pretty much none, at least for DOT, street legal tires. There are some race only tires out there in 15", but again selection is very limited. It's actually more of an issue with the other Mopar body styles though. On an A-body to get a good sized tire up front you pretty much need an 18" rim anyway because of the outer tie rod end clearance.

 

[thanson_mopar]

Yeah there are pretty much none, at least for DOT, street legal tires. There are some race only tires out there in 15", but again selection is very limited. It's actually more of an issue with the other Mopar body styles though. On an A-body to get a good sized tire up front you pretty much need an 18" rim anyway because of the outer tie rod end clearance.

What If I were to cave in a bit and go with a 17, Bummed out because I really wanted to keep my dog dish caps but after the last few days of trying to find a decent set of 15 tires I'm about ready to switch to a bigger wheel. It would be cool If I could get a 17 inch wheel that would accept my dog dishes but I don't think a wheel exists. Cragar makes a black D window wheel in a 17. They have 8 and 9 inch wide available both with 4.5 backspacing.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/cragar-black-d-window-wheels/wheel-diameter/17-in/wheel-bolt-pattern/5-x-4-1-2-in?N=306009+4294920356+4294947558&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

I know 18 would be better yet and I know I shouldn't be soo worried about aesthetics especially when the goal is better handling but I really just don't care for the way 18's look on my car. I just think they look too big. Honestly the only 18 inch wheels I thought looked ok on an abody are the enkei wheels you have on your duster, Don't know why but look more like 17's to me.

Assuming I do get those Cragar 17's whats the largest I can fit up front and in the rear with stock wheel wells? 255/50?

 

[72bluNblu]

Well, 17's definitely have a better tire selection than 15's, although even at 17" there's a lot less choice than there used to be. With a 17" you can go up to about 5.6" of backspace on most rims. That limits you to a 17x8 or 17x8.5, and would let you run up to a 255/45/17.

There was at least one member here, Duster346, that had a set of 17x9" Cobra R wheels on his car, they have a 6" backspace. He ran 275/40/17's, but later told me that he was on the fenders and the tie rods, very little clearance at either location. I didn't find that post right off but I know he said he basically had no extra clearance anywhere. Which makes sense, with the 275/35/18's I run I'm basically right at the fender and the frame, so, you can't go bigger anyway without significant fender mods, at least not on a Dart/Duster fender. The Barracuda's seem to have a little more room. I have 6.1" of backspace on my 18x9's, so, in theory he would have had less fender clearance but that comes down to tire manufacturer at that point. My tie rod clearance isn't an issue with the 18's though, I've got plenty. Not sure what it would look like with the cobra R's, it has to be tight

Here's his posts
Anybody running 17" Cobra Bullit rims on a Duster
his build thread for the leadfoot rally
Leadfoot Rally '73 Duster

So what that means is that if you wanted to run a 17x9 it would come down to rim design, and you'd basically be buying a rim hoping it would fit. The Cobra R's are the only 17" rim I've heard of that didn't interfere with 6" of backspace. I'm sure there are others, but, it would be on you to find them. By comparison, a set of 17" bullit rims won't fit after about 5.6" of backspace, the factory Bullit 17x8's with 5.72" of backspace all need a small spacer for tie rod clearance (there's a bunch of folks running those). To run a 275/40/17 you'd need to have 6" of backspace, any less than that and you'd be into the fenders for sure, any more and you'd be on the tie rod ends. I think the best case would actually be a 255/45/17, running it on the 17x9" would improve the tire/rim fit since a 17x8" is the minimum width for that tire. And with a 255/45/17 your backspace could be between ~5.6" and 6", so you could actually use spacers to modify the tie rod clearance if you had to. With a 275 you'd basically just be stuck if it didn't clear the tie rods with a 6" backspace, you'd have no room to the fender to add a spacer to improve the tie rod clearance.

 

[thanson_mopar]

So what that means is that if you wanted to run a 17x9 it would come down to rim design, and you'd basically be buying a rim hoping it would fit. The Cobra R's are the only 17" rim I've heard of that didn't interfere with 6" of backspace. I'm sure there are others, but, it would be on you to find them. By comparison, a set of 17" bullit rims won't fit after about 5.6" of backspace, the factory Bullit 17x8's with 5.72" of backspace all need a small spacer for tie rod clearance (there's a bunch of folks running those). To run a 275/40/17 you'd need to have 6" of backspace, any less than that and you'd be into the fenders for sure, any more and you'd be on the tie rod ends. I think the best case would actually be a 255/45/17, running it on the 17x9" would improve the tire/rim fit since a 17x8" is the minimum width for that tire. And with a 255/45/17 your backspace could be between ~5.6" and 6", so you could actually use spacers to modify the tie rod clearance if you had to. With a 275 you'd basically just be stuck if it didn't clear the tie rods with a 6" backspace, you'd have no room to the fender to add a spacer to improve the tie rod clearance.

Sorry If I come off as dense, Im just trying to make sure I'm on the same page, you are giving me a ton of great information.

Hypothetically, If I'm considering 255/45r17 on all four corners using those 17" Cragars that are 9 inches wide. They have 5 inches of backspacing. With only 5 inches of backspacing I probably won't have any clearance issues with tie rods ends that others have had since they had more backspacing. Of course If I were to go that route I should order one of the wheels to do a test fit before ordering the rest of the wheels and new tires because like you said it comes down to rim design and the design of the rim may or may not interfere with the tie rod ends. Also to check to make sure the rim will fit over the large disc brake center. Am I following you correctly?

here is a direct link to the 9 inch wide wheel they offer.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crr-3428912/overview/

 

[pauly v.100]

Surprized more folks aren't looking into other alternatives besides mustang wheels. Don't the crown Vic cop car wheels have the same bolt pattern in 16"? How about the early Toyota pre-runner (the blue ones with body kit) wheels. They're 5 on 4.5" too and look pretty good. Some of the newer jeep wheels look ok too.
The center register size in the front is easy to fix by having your machinist cut the hub snout down to fit the wheel.

 

[67autocross]

Last time I tried the steel 16" crown vic police wheels they would not clear the upper ball joint on the front.

 

[72bluNblu]

Sorry If I come off as dense, Im just trying to make sure I'm on the same page, you are giving me a ton of great information.

Hypothetically, If I'm considering 255/45r17 on all four corners using those 17" Cragars that are 9 inches wide. They have 5 inches of backspacing. With only 5 inches of backspacing I probably won't have any clearance issues with tie rods ends that others have had since they had more backspacing. Of course If I were to go that route I should order one of the wheels to do a test fit before ordering the rest of the wheels and new tires because like you said it comes down to rim design and the design of the rim may or may not interfere with the tie rod ends. Also to check to make sure the rim will fit over the large disc brake center. Am I following you correctly?

here is a direct link to the 9 inch wide wheel they offer.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crr-3428912/overview/

With a set of 17x9's you'd need a minimum of 5.6" of backspace to keep a set of 255/45/17's off the fender. Minimum. Any less than that and it would interfere on the fender side.

Surprized more folks aren't looking into other alternatives besides mustang wheels. Don't the crown Vic cop car wheels have the same bolt pattern in 16"? How about the early Toyota pre-runner (the blue ones with body kit) wheels. They're 5 on 4.5" too and look pretty good. Some of the newer jeep wheels look ok too.
The center register size in the front is easy to fix by having your machinist cut the hub snout down to fit the wheel.

Tire selection for 16" rims is even more abysmal than 15" for sizes you'd want to run on one of these cars. And they have pretty much all the same backspace limitations as 15's, meaning, you can't get enough backspace to run a decent width tire up front before you start hitting suspension parts with the rim.

 

[thanson_mopar]

With a set of 17x9's you'd need a minimum of 5.6" of backspace to keep a set of 255/45/17's off the fender. Minimum. Any less than that and it would interfere on the fender side.

I understand now, bummer. I'm sure cragar doesn't offer custom backspacing on those wheels. Those are one of the few sets of 17's that I liked the look of. Back to square one for wheels.

 

[Mattax]

. Back to square one for wheels.

For what you stated as your goals, don't sweat it.
* Put a sway bar on that works with your '74 K-frame and the lower control arms.
That's going to be huge impact on how it feels (both roll and therefore camber control)
* Drop the rear hieght you currently have with the unmodified SS springs. (see post #32 for for some options.) This will help with caster, roll, and reduce the chance of oversteer.
I'm assuming you're going through with these and the bigger t-bars and maybe the better shocks.
Drive it, see how you like it. If you feel its lacking in some area, then make make additional changes. That includes tires.
You don't need the ultimate in stick. You just need decent for a street driver. Yea I know, heresy. You know better than any of us what roads, and conditions you plan to drive on and how hard you're going to push it. I used BFG's radial T/As for a long time and they're an OK al season radial. They will last a long time, and just get harder as they get older. I don't love 'em but for the price, they'll do just about every road type and condition OK. (not great, just OK).

I switched to the Firestone Indy 500s before they stopped making them. Definately a step up in that they are softer, better traction, etc. However they're not made anymore so no more talk about them. I mention them because if you're just looking for all-season tires in a close to stock diameter, there's probably some options besides the ole' BFGs.*

If the roads are really good asphault and you really want that sticktion, then yes the widest offerings will be in the bigger diameters. But you'll still find some offerings from Toyo, Khumo, Hankook in 15" amongst the less considered brands, and if your needs are more toward an all season radial, that opens it up a more. Don't be locked in on a super wide tire if there is a better tire in close to stock diameter. I've run 205 and 215 and they're fine for almost everything except autocross. (I use a dedicated tire for autocrossing although I use to occasionally run the radial T/As in the rain, but even then they weren't as good as a semi-treaded race tire).

*for example I was just looking for modern snow tire to put on the spare 14x6 and 7" slots I have. Tire-r*ck didn't show much other than some very traditional snows; but poking around the web found the Hankook I*pikes, as well as a Cooper snow for those rims.

 

[thanson_mopar]

With a set of 17x9's you'd need a minimum of 5.6" of backspace to keep a set of 255/45/17's off the fender. Minimum. Any less than that and it would interfere on the fender side.

Cragar finally emailed me back about custom backspacing. Talk about slow customer service. The good news though is that it looks like if I wanted a set of those wheels I could make them work.

"Hi Tate,

17x9 is the widest we offer. But, we can do special backsides. The min and max are below.

17x8 min 4 1/4" & Max 5"

17x9 min 4 7/5" & Max 5 7/8"

Thank You for contacting Cragar customer care."

So should I shoot for 5.75" of backspacing on all four wheels running a 17 X9 and 255/45r17 all the way around?

I'm going to be running the Mopar circle track springs in the stock location in the rear with a B-body 8.75

 

[72bluNblu]

Oh boy. Well, in the front that might work. With a 17x9, 5.75" backspace, and a 255/45/17 you can probably thread the needle on clearance between the outer tie rod end and the fender. The problem is that the outer tie rod end clearance depends on the rim design. I know of a car that ran a 17x9" with a 6" backspace that just barely cleared the outer tie rod (using mustang Cobra R rims). But, I also know of several cars running Mustang Bullit rims that needed a spacer to get to 5.6" of backspace in order to clear the outer tie rod. With a 255/45/17, your tires would have the same fender clearance as mine with a 17x9 and as little as 5.6" of backspace. So, in theory you should be able to make it work. But that's assuming your car ends up with EXACTLY the same clearance I have, and that's not a great assumption.

In the back it depends on which B-body rear axle you have. If you have a 68-70 B-body 8 3/4" like I do, you'd have to trim the quarter lip back. That combination would only have .1" more clearance to the quarter as my combination of 295/35/18's on 18x10's with 7" of backspace. But since I cut over a 1/2" off the quarter lips on my car, it wouldn't clear unless you did the same. If you have a 65-67 B body 8 3/4, it will be really tight. That would put the combo .4" further in than mine, but again I cut the quarter lips back over a 1/2". It would be down to how wide that set of 255's really is, tire manufacturer would matter. Some might work, some might not. Maxing out the backspace at 5 7/8" would help a little, but it would still be close.

I ran the numbers for a 245 on a 17x8" with 5" of backspace too, just in case. In the front it would probably work, you'd have the same fender clearance as I do but your tie rod clearance wouldn't be an issue. In the back you'd be in exactly the same boat. With a 68-70 B body rear you'd have to cut the quarter lips back the same 1/2" I did. With a 65-67 B body rear you'd have .3", so, probably not enough to get away without at least doing a minor trim on the quarter lips.

 

[Killer6]

Lol, Ehrenburg & co. put the Green Brick in 3rd place in the One Lap of America, behind only a Mosler GT and a Mallett C5 'vette. On 225/50VR15 Gatorback Goodyears!! When
I see/hear "225's ain't gonna get it done", I laugh out loud, really...........? I'm NOT arguing they are ideal by any stretch, and certainly E-booger & crew were looking to make
an improvement, mainly because of the already availability issues with good 15" shoes, but to say they're not going to get it done is laughable. The OP said He wasn't planning
to auto-X, just have some fun on the civilian twisties, the combo of performance and looks is also in play here. They didn't care if the 225/50's looked smallish, they worked &
kept the car low, and they stuck. If You look at whats available, there are still a decent selection of 16" that would work, but if You're not making the switch economically, You
might as well jump straight to 17's and get it over with.

 

[dukeboy440]

Oh boy. Well, in the front that might work. With a 17x9, 5.75" backspace, and a 255/45/17 you can probably thread the needle on clearance between the outer tie rod end and the fender. The problem is that the outer tie rod end clearance depends on the rim design. I know of a car that ran a 17x9" with a 6" backspace that just barely cleared the outer tie rod (using mustang Cobra R rims). But, I also know of several cars running Mustang Bullit rims that needed a spacer to get to 5.6" of backspace in order to clear the outer tie rod. With a 255/45/17, your tires would have the same fender clearance as mine with a 17x9 and as little as 5.6" of backspace. So, in theory you should be able to make it work. But that's assuming your car ends up with EXACTLY the same clearance I have, and that's not a great assumption.

In the back it depends on which B-body rear axle you have. If you have a 68-70 B-body 8 3/4" like I do, you'd have to trim the quarter lip back. That combination would only have .1" more clearance to the quarter as my combination of 295/35/18's on 18x10's with 7" of backspace. But since I cut over a 1/2" off the quarter lips on my car, it wouldn't clear unless you did the same. If you have a 65-67 B body 8 3/4, it will be really tight. That would put the combo .4" further in than mine, but again I cut the quarter lips back over a 1/2". It would be down to how wide that set of 255's really is, tire manufacturer would matter. Some might work, some might not. Maxing out the backspace at 5 7/8" would help a little, but it would still be close.

I ran the numbers for a 245 on a 17x8" with 5" of backspace too, just in case. In the front it would probably work, you'd have the same fender clearance as I do but your tie rod clearance wouldn't be an issue. In the back you'd be in exactly the same boat. With a 68-70 B body rear you'd have to cut the quarter lips back the same 1/2" I did. With a 65-67 B body rear you'd have .3", so, probably not enough to get away without at least doing a minor trim on the quarter lips.

question, what's your rear track width with the B body rear in it?

 

[72bluNblu]

Lol, Ehrenburg & co. put the Green Brick in 3rd place in the One Lap of America, behind only a Mosler GT and a Mallett C5 'vette. On 225/50VR15 Gatorback Goodyears!! When
I see/hear "225's ain't gonna get it done", I laugh out loud, really...........? I'm NOT arguing they are ideal by any stretch, and certainly E-booger & crew were looking to make
an improvement, mainly because of the already availability issues with good 15" shoes, but to say they're not going to get it done is laughable. The OP said He wasn't planning
to auto-X, just have some fun on the civilian twisties, the combo of performance and looks is also in play here. They didn't care if the 225/50's looked smallish, they worked &
kept the car low, and they stuck. If You look at whats available, there are still a decent selection of 16" that would work, but if You're not making the switch economically, You
might as well jump straight to 17's and get it over with.

Well, having run 225/60/15's on the street with most of the same suspension set up I have now I can tell you that the difference between them and something wider is significant. When I was running 225/60/15's I didn't have sway bars on my car, but I did have the 1.12" torsion bars and AFCO rear springs. The car was completely flat in the corners, it was limited by tire traction only and would oversteer if pushed hard. As soon as I swapped up to the 275/35/18's and 295/35/18's I run now I had a significant amount of body roll return, even just on the street. I added front and rear Hellwig sway bars to get it back to where it should be, and when I push it now I still get a little more roll out of it than I did with the 225's. Which is probably good, because the suspension was too stiff for the 225's. And that was "just on the street".

So, laugh all you'd like, but 225's aren't going to get it done if you really want to handle. Yes, if you set your car up correctly for the 225's you can have a good handling car, and one that handles remarkably better than any of these cars did stock (which isn't hard because they were awful in stock trim). But you're still leaving a TON of capability on the table. The tire width isn't the only issue, it's the tire selection. You can't get a good range of tire compounds in street legal 15" tires. You definitely don't have to go up to 275's like I did to handle well, but if you stay with 15's you can't get a soft enough compound. Most of the tire compounds available in a 225/60/15 range from 400 to 600 for treadwear. Even stepping down to a 300 treadwear tire makes a big difference from there. Just going up to 17's and a 245 would improve handling dramatically.

And, while the Green Brick was set up quite well, it's worth noting that the driver of the car was Kevin Wesley, and that had a lot to do with the 'Brick's success.

question, what's your rear track width with the B body rear in it?

The 68-70 B-body 8 3/4 I run is 60 1/8" drum to drum. The rear wheels I run are 18x10's with +38mm of offset, so, the actual track width measured to the middle of the tire should be around 57 1/8", but that measurement doesn't help much with buying wheels. And to fit 18x10's and 295's I did a 1/2" spring offset and cut a bit more than a 1/2" off of the quarter lips.

 

[dukeboy440]

The 68-70 B-body 8 3/4 I run is 60 1/8" drum to drum. The rear wheels I run are 18x10's with +38mm of offset, so, the actual track width measured to the middle of the tire should be around 57 1/8", but that measurement doesn't help much with buying wheels. And to fit 18x10's and 295's I did a 1/2" spring offset and cut a bit more than a 1/2" off of the quarter lips.

nice, one of the things I've been considering is switching out my 8.75 for a b body in my dart. Im running a GTS front kit as im sure you recall in our numerous discussions but I've been wanting to figure out a better way to widen the rear track some before I fully weld in the rear 4 link setup. I'll be running 285s up front and will most likely be flaring the rear quarters about an inch to two inches.

 

[Killer6]

Kevin was/is an exceptional shoe, but either the car can put it down or it can't, and it did..........ahead of a boatload of cars w/"better tire sizes". Those were 50 series,...not 60,
and I think we established the lack of good gummies for 15" about a million times. You can get Kumho's in 225/50, and a variety of DOT spec competition ones, but not much
in between.

 

[scampman]

Your right, shouldve given a few specifics.

74 duster, 360, manual steering, currently 340 torsion bars, currently super stock springs, front rebuild with oem bushings, still looking for recomendation on tires but will be using 15" steel wheels

Can you recomend a brand of gas shock? Rear leaf springs? (The ss springs are getting removed) as well as the 340 torsion bars.

Can you give me details on a "performance" alignment? I am running f body front spindles/discs.

So if 225/60r15 are what i need on the front, what size would you run on the back since you dont like your 235's? 225?

Thanks for all the info

once you remove the 340 torsion bars do you plan on keeping them or getting rid of them? if you want to sell them I would be interested in purchasing them if we can negotiate a decent price. BTW your car is sounding really good, looking for the end result. thanks Brian (scampman)

 

[FredS]

There is this tire. I am using it upfront, and its handling pretty well. Only had it up to 135 and it was very stable.
Amazon.com: Customer Reviews: Accelera ALPHA Performance Radial Tire - 225/60-15 96V

Vrated, 300 wear, considered a performance summer tire
Running Nitto 555rs out back. These surprisingly handle pretty decent.


I also wanted to keep my steelies and caps. 15x7 F, 15x8 R

 

[FredS]

I chose Hotchkis bars, subframe connectors, and FoxShocks, with stock v8bars and ESPO HD springs out back. Couldn't fit larger bars with the 1-7/8 TTI headers. Handling was very good in my opinion. Was very confidence inspiring in turns, even at 90mph on long highway transition bends.

 

[72bluNblu]

nice, one of the things I've been considering is switching out my 8.75 for a b body in my dart. Im running a GTS front kit as im sure you recall in our numerous discussions but I've been wanting to figure out a better way to widen the rear track some before I fully weld in the rear 4 link setup. I'll be running 285s up front and will most likely be flaring the rear quarters about an inch to two inches.

Normally I would say the 68-70 B rear is a little wide for a Dart, the 65-67 works a bit better. But, if you're pushing the quarters out an inch you'll have the quarters in pretty much the same place as my Duster does, so it would work pretty well. The 65-67 B body 8 3/4 is 59.5" drum to drum, the 68-70 is 60.125".

Guess you stretched the front fenders a bit too? I know Tom was running 285's on his Valiant but he pushed them out with a porta-power to do it.

 

[dukeboy440]

Normally I would say the 68-70 B rear is a little wide for a Dart, the 65-67 works a bit better. But, if you're pushing the quarters out an inch you'll have the quarters in pretty much the same place as my Duster does, so it would work pretty well. The 65-67 B body 8 3/4 is 59.5" drum to drum, the 68-70 is 60.125".

Guess you stretched the front fenders a bit too? I know Tom was running 285's on his Valiant but he pushed them out with a porta-power to do it.

No, not the front, I probably will for looks but a 285/30/18 fits with the GTS up front, albeit it's only a 25 inch tall tire . If I do end up flaring them, I may switch to the taller, thought slightly narrower 275/35/18