I have the 1972 Dodge Demon been doing a lot of upgrades as everyone does with the old Mopars. Disc brakes all around better braking, Hotchkis leafs in the back to lower the rear of car, stock a body 8 3/4 rear up grade on the axles 5 4.5 and front disc for the better choice of tires (sounds like 18's are the way to go). Hotchkis sway bars front and back. Having trouble deciding on torsion bar size? Any ideas would be helpful with the set up I'm have. QA1 upper and lower front, stock k frame small V8 no Big Block and the motor is a 318 with 30 over 302 casting heads with the biggest valves the heads can handle and thin mopar head gaskets with that being said ( of course headers 2.5 exhaust pipes) question is have not choose a carb for the motor. Any Ideas would help on that to Holly verses Edelbrock ect Thanks in advance
Decent handling susp setup?
- Thread starter thanson_mopar
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dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
.920 bars, maybe 1.03s and for carb, how well do you know how to tune a Holley? I've ran both and the eddy carb is easier to tune out of the box. But you'll make more power with the holley, it's just longer and harder to tune
autoxcuda
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1.00" min with the level of upgrades and what "appears" to be your objective.
You looking to do some track days and/or autocross? Are you looking for aggressive handling? Much more than just street cruising?
What size tires you thinking?
Have you driven it with any of the upgrades mentioned? Or in process of building or planning?
I'd go double pumper for the throttle response. I doubt this is a car you drive back and forth to work?
I'll second this. I wouldn't go less than 1", and actually having run 1" Just Suspension torsion bars on my Duster I found them to be pretty soft still. The 1.03" PST bars are a good option, hard to beat for the price and a good compromise for wheel rate if you're primarily looking at a street driver. 18's are pretty much the way to go if you want to go wider than 245 for tires in the front. If you stick with 245's you can run 17's if you prefer the look of a little more sidewall. If you set up the backspacing just about perfect you can run 255/45/17's, but you have to hit a pretty small "window" with the backspacing so rim choice would be limited if you wanted to run 255's. If you want to go any bigger than that you need the extra backspace the 18" rims provide because they bypass the outer tie rod clearance issues that come up with anything 17" or smaller. With a Demon and the stock rear spring locations you could run 275's on all 4 corners with 18" rims and the proper backspacing.
The carb is really a matter of what you prefer. Either will get the job done, the one you're most comfortable with is the best choice unless you're planning on being super competitive about things. I've run both, I've found the general stereotype holds true. The eddy's are a "take it out of the box, bolt it on and run it" type of affair on a lot of cars, where the Holley's tend to need more initial set up to get them right. But, the Holley's are very tunable if you know what you're doing, so a knowledgeable tuner should be able to get more out of them. Not as convenient as the Edelbrock's, even when I've had to make some initial set up changes on the Eddy's they're pretty much "set it and forget it". The Holley's seem to require a little more fiddling to keep them set up right, at least that's been my experience with the 750 double pumper on my 340. So they both have their pro's and con's, whichever you're most comfortable with is usually the best option.
The Demon has been dragged where ever I went. My wife's first car. This is a build in progress just got the rear in a couple of weeks ago. Everything seems like a small battle in the war to get this car on the road. Had to drill the rear disc out to fit the studs, pulled the whole old motor and tranny/k frame in one shot. New k frame installed with what I already put on but ran into lower ball joint was not the correct one for the spindle, I used 72 dart with disc's to small got ahold of the person I bought the front disc set up from turns out you need 70s b or e lower just got them from summit. another waste of $100 for thinking things are going to be easy plus another $30 for grade 8 bolts to tie things together but that's why I push on to finish what has been a dream for 30 years. I am really building the car to F&&k with my brother in law AKA Chevy guy even I have one of those Chevy but gave it to my oldest(70 impala sport coupe) But love the mopars. This car needs Paint But just can't Paint in the winter northern Mn but there's always something to do to it. wheels I was just looking in to them leaning towards CPP Foose F097 Knuckle Wheels Rims, 17x7 front + 17x8 rear but still debating after reading what every ones been talking about 18s But I am sure Foose has them in 18s. tires take more research that is why I am here some one out there has been though the pit falls of trying to get it right like me. Like Good year for tires but once again changing my mind because someone has done the research on what will fit with no real problems of rubbing. I had the bias tire 14 60 series (Still have these with moons on them) on it years ago but they even rubbed inside rear still shows today. I was looking at the 1.06 bars but still want to be very streetable so 1.03 will be what I will be getting as soon as money is a flowing another month but for now the old ones go back in to get it standing on all fours. Going with the stiffening kit but have to wait for the overtime. The Slant Six only has 20 miles on it and same with the 904 trans. I still need to get lifters for the 318 cam is .480 intake lift .495 exhaust. The person that did the heads for me AKA co worker likes the holly But his thoughts Holley Carburetor 600 CFM Electric Choke to not over carb the little feller as he put it. You all have been a great wealth of info Thanks
375inStroke
Well-Known Member
Moving the battery has about twice the weight balance change as moving the motor back 6 inches.
Try this out:
racing aspirations » Weight Distribution Calculator
Based on that toy? Ok. Unless you've actually weighed all of your components and got that thing set up to the point where it matches corner weights you've actually measured you're just guessing.
375inStroke
Well-Known Member
Based on math and science. Used all the time on aircraft. They don't weigh the plane every flight, but they need to know the weight and CG every time they takeoff. Do you want to know the benefits before you do the work? I can walk you through it if you want.
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