Inertia
Well-Known Member
My mentor was like that . . .
Does This Debunk the "Coolant Can Flow Through the Radiator Too Fast" Idea???
- Thread starter harrisonm
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My mentor was like that . . .
If it's a high efficiency core, a three row will out cool a four row, but the two row high efficiency core will out cool them all.
If you read more than my first sentence (which is true but not the end of the story), you will see that we are in agreement. "Efficient" transfer, not to be confused with sufficient cooling capacity.
So, not a person understood what was going on in that engine-radiator, talk about closed minded! By definition a radiator RADIATES HEAT, water went through it so fast it couldn’t release the HEAT (for the size of radiator) BTW I hope y’all know what those little fins hooked to the pipes are for? Say the radiator holds 2 gallons, make a pipe container that holds two gallons now hook the engine up to pipe then the radiator, which one cools better?
I’m not saying make the flow slow, I’m saying rad needs to be big enough to absorb the heat, even as hot and as fast as the water was flowing as radiator twice the size would've cooled the water before it went back into the engine. I have many more examples, I won’t be mean, just trying to enlighten.
One more thing, why do they use a little single core radiator on a /6 and a bigger 4 core on a Hemi or 440?
I’m not saying make the flow slow, I’m saying rad needs to be big enough to absorb the heat, even as hot and as fast as the water was flowing as radiator twice the size would've cooled the water before it went back into the engine. I have many more examples, I won’t be mean, just trying to enlighten.
One more thing, why do they use a little single core radiator on a /6 and a bigger 4 core on a Hemi or 440?
mopar head
Well-Known Member
Now boys... 
It's impossible for water to flow through a radiator and not shed heat. It cannot happen because of the radiator's design. It's designed to slow water flow just enough to shed the right amount of heat. As long as the radiator is large enough, it'll do the job.
And what is the major function of a T stat but to regulate the flow through the engine.
The thermostat controls the minimum operating temp and allows quick warmup for the heater. That's about it.
Ceedawg,
You did get the statement in post #182 correct...but not much else.
The coolant flow is SLOWED DOWN by the t'stat. If you measure all the AREA of all the coolant holes in the head gasket [ I have done it ] their combined area is faaaaaaaaaaaar greater than the area of the fully open t'stat. The stat controls the flow.
You did get the statement in post #182 correct...but not much else.
The coolant flow is SLOWED DOWN by the t'stat. If you measure all the AREA of all the coolant holes in the head gasket
famous bob
mopar misfit
AND , its supposed to open at the designed temp. , but does not hold the engine to that temp , just used to maintain the minimum temp....normal to run hotter...
Yea no that's not remotely true. As Rusty pointed out all it does is set the MINIMUM operating temperature.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Who's on first, lol.
Hilarious.
Watch the vid I posted back at #33, particularly the actions of the thermostat.
then read the sign.
Hilarious.
Watch the vid I posted back at #33, particularly the actions of the thermostat.
then read the sign.
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Inertia
Well-Known Member
And a reminder that a major percentage of engines out there, you can't mess with the pulley sizes, space and pulleys are very limited,even when turbos are optional, and heat is extreme.
Pump ratios stay the same, other things change .
Pump ratios stay the same, other things change .
So what’s your degree? You’re so wrong, go watch some more ‘goofys garage’
Your point is very valid, but that's not the type engines or cooling systems we're discussing here.
Did you read the article on the Stewart Components page? I would certainly say they are experts.
Yes, thought slowing down was obvious
No, so if water FLOWS to fast it won’t warm up?!
We're not talking about it flowing too fast. We're talking about it flowing only as fast as the radiator will allow. It cannot flow any faster, because the radiator is the limiting factor.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
YES. I have to run a thermostat because if I don’t I can’t get the engine over 140.
If it was a drag car I wouldn’t give a **** but I drive it on the street and need a defrost.
If the cooling system actually works the engine should never see higher than thermostat opening except at traffic lights on 100 plus degree days.
And I refuse to use a “restrictor” because all that does is make the engine harder to warm up.
It wastes fuel, kills rings and other kinds of bad ****
Then you have one hell of a radiator. What is it?
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
It’s an EPW?? I think that’s what it is. Or something like that.
The water pump is only 6% over driven but I’d like to get to 20 over.
On hundred plus degree days it runs right at 160. If I hit a train or some Uber long traffic light it will climb as high as 175 but it cools off once you get moving.
Hence why I want to get the pump and by the mechanical genius of bolts the fan up to 20% over.
I think it would clean that up.
I have some need math I did somewhere but the upshot is I calculated pump speed where I’m at and then how many more rpm I had to get before it started to cool down.
I figured I needed about 200 rpm more at idle and that’s what 20% will get me.
Finding the pulleys is not that easy.
I’ve looked into getting some made but I doubt I could sell more that two or three sets. This thread is proof positive that old wives tales never die.
I think I'm gonna try an experiment. I have a GM water pump pulley that's the same 5/8" center hole as Vixen's water pump, but a different bolt pattern, of course. I'm gonna make a jig out of a Mopar pulley and drill the GM pulley to the same bolt pattern. It's only like 1/16" off for the depth and one water pump spacer will fix that. Here's the skinny though. The slant 6 crankshaft pulley is 7". The stock water pump pulley is like 6 3/8". So I'm over driven a little now. The GM pulley is like 5 3/4". I don't have over heating issues by a country mile, but I'm curious to see if it'll make a difference.
mopar head
Well-Known Member
I`m in the 180 min. temp. mindset for a street car. Chrysler determined 190 for my 72 440 iirc.
I`ve always heard engines need to be hot enough to burn off acetic combustion gasses or bad things can happen and condensation cheese will form under valve covers and in crankcase. Ewe.
Mt late model GM stuff is set to 200, maybe 210, I forget. That`s pretty damn hot.
Ram air can cool an engine down by 5deg. in continuous higher speed and rpm situations.
What say youins? lol
I`ve always heard engines need to be hot enough to burn off acetic combustion gasses or bad things can happen and condensation cheese will form under valve covers and in crankcase. Ewe.
Mt late model GM stuff is set to 200, maybe 210, I forget. That`s pretty damn hot.
Ram air can cool an engine down by 5deg. in continuous higher speed and rpm situations.
What say youins? lol
A picture of your setup would be awesome!
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