Don't get it right, just get it running. 85 318 roller

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Crafty = making your own equipment

Though I never heard of a vacuum test before.
 
Thanks, everyone. I think what I will do is keep the heads that came on this motor, since they were designed for them.

What does everyone suggest having a machine shop do? Hot tank?
Pressure test?
Mag check?

Does a pressure test tell them if it needs a valve job or valve seals?
 
Pressure testing is used to check the integrity of the water jackets.

My suggestion is to have the heads disassembled, cleaned, magged, and given an overall evaluation.
However, if you want to do your own pre-inspection, pull them apart and with some carb cleaner and a small wire brush that goes in a drill, clean off all around the exhaust seats in the bowls and chambers.
Then carefully look for cracks in the seat area with a magnifying glass. Those 302 heads are rather crack prone, and if you see cracks, stop right there and move along to plan B.
 
Machine shop? do? with the heads? at a minimum clean them up check the guides and install guides and or liners if needed. valve job and new valve guide seals. Oh and tehy should check installed height of the springs and shim possibly or replace any weak valve springs. But I'm just yacking most here would tell ya to get Speedmasters... :thumbsup:
 
Pressure testing is used to check the integrity of the water jackets.

My suggestion is to have the heads disassembled, cleaned, magged, and given an overall evaluation.
However, if you want to do your own pre-inspection, pull them apart and with some carb cleaner and a small wire brush that goes in a drill, clean off all around the exhaust seats in the bowls and chambers.
Then carefully look for cracks in the seat area with a magnifying glass. Those 302 heads are rather crack prone, and if you see cracks, stop right there and move along to plan B.

Thank you. I think I will disassembled and magged then go from there.

Here I was all stoked to get a roller motor and the heads I already have ready to go aren't the best match. Lol oh well.

I am going to focus on getting the short block ready first
 
Don't you just love how these things snowball? This all went from just trying to get it running to a complete rebuild real fast.
 
Don't you just love how these things snowball? This all went from just trying to get it running to a complete rebuild real fast.

I know, I have to keep myself focused. I don't regret the clean up and replacement of the bearings and rings mainly because they were inexpensive.

The head definitely threw me through a loop. But I think it's best to take a step back and finish the short block and then go from there.
 
remember, you're building a stock motor you don't need to get wild or be fussy with the heads.

having your stuff checked by a machine shop isn't a bad idea but just go into it knowing that it's likely to snowball with needing things and stuffs.

the benefit you have is that because the motor is "new enough" and popular there are options-- both aftermarket and reman. for instance, fully assembled reman heads with warranty run 250~350
 
remember, you're building a stock motor you don't need to get wild or be fussy with the heads.

having your stuff checked by a machine shop isn't a bad idea but just go into it knowing that it's likely to snowball with needing things and stuffs.

the benefit you have is that because the motor is "new enough" and popular there are options-- both aftermarket and reman. for instance, fully assembled reman heads with warranty run 250~350

Where are these reman heads for 250-350?
 
Where are these reman heads for 250-350?



edit: i don't know what's up with the advance site but the heads are their house brand "spartan" and the PN is 2D31 list is 331 w/ a $50 core
 
As far as checking your 318 302 heads for any cracks, yourself.

A good pair of eyes and a magnifying glass. If the engine was overheated at any time or run out of coolant, the crack will show up in the narrow area between the intake and exhaust valve in both valve seats. It will be quite obvious if there is a problem there.

No problems, continue on. Quick check for any excessive loosness of the valve guides using a new valve to check.

Get yourself a new set of mopar valve guide seals for final assembly.


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edit: i don't know what's up with the advance site but the heads are their house brand "spartan" and the PN is 2D31 list is 331 w/ a $50 core

Ah thanks! This seems like the best route.
 
Ah thanks! This seems like the best route.

That's a great deal on those reman 302 heads.

Don't even have to clean up your old heads, or spend effort getting them checked.

They ship out in some nice black plastic totes, easy to drop your core heads into for the core credit. Come with prepaid return shipping tag.

Good Luck


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Ah thanks! This seems like the best route.
here's my play: tearing down and cleaning/inspecting your heads costs you nothing but time. if the seats look good and the guides don't seem to have a bunch of wobble to them, then i'd see what the machine shop wants for a tank/pressure test/mag check. if that's reasonable, then go that route. then just clean up what you've got, lap in the valves, snap on seals and ship it.

any of the heads you have are viable options, i'd just choose the ones that need the least amount of effort, work and money to make right. and if any of that exceeds 500-ish, then i'd be pulling the trigger on some remans.
 
Don't you just love how these things snowball? This all went from just trying to get it running to a complete rebuild real fast.
It always does here that's why I try and define overhaul. rebuild. balance and blueprint.

Most here do any combination of the second and last one and it always $kyrockets the bill because its not their money .

i still say clean and check stuff then decide what will work and machine what you have to for an overhaul / rebuild. Ideally an overhaul would be all done at home with little to no

machine shop work and home honing etc. hand lapping valves. basically if it doesn't need it don't buy it .

Another thing on here when troubleshooting its allways the worst thing it could possibly be noone ever says "did ya check for spark/fuel/ timing/major engine damage?

the 4 things that will make an engine not run.
 
$436 each at Rockauto this includes no core charge for people who don't have 302 cores.

Probably need to tack on 60.00 ea. for shipping.

So yeah, that 1,000 bucks for a pair to your door through Rock.

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The VEGE remans at 259.00 ea. Plus if you don't have cores 115.00 each.

520 + 230 = 750.00 at summit
(If no cores)

Days gone by in 1999 you could get a pair shipped in from Rock for 500.00 without cores, and the 50.00 shipping was part of the price.


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I called AutoZone, I have a commercial account with them and got their 2D31 for $208! No shipping cost. The warehouse only had 1 so I got it and will check back when I'm ready to install.

The machine shop wants $335 to clean, mag and pressure check. So to have these ready to go is the best play.
 
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Don't get it right, just get it running.​

Your thread, your words.
If the 302s clean up and look good with no major issues; then lap the valves in, throw some fresh valve seals on it, and button it up. You're losing sight of your original intent. This ain't supposed to be a 100k motor, just a solid coffee and ice cream getter that can squawk the tires when you so desire. Focus!
Just my opinion, but it's your money.
 
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