Dougs 67 Notch build

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RedFish: Thanks for the heads up! I caught the Voltmeter interference issue and left the needle as is, I used my Dremel tool and clearanced the center post so the needle could operate without interference. Then I assembled the insturment cluster and hot tested the volt meter with a battery, insuring that it worked properly. The entire bezel was sent into my vacuum plater and reconditioned so I am aware of the tapping issue. Everything on the car worked when I did demolition but I am aware that I will be very lucky if everything works on completion. I do have a complete spare instrument panel with all gauges if something goes awry. I appreciate all input and advice, this is my first Mopar build and I will be doing the headlight relay conversion and thinking about the 1 wire alternator conversion as well.
Cheers:burnout:Rat
 
I guess I will start with the dash speaker install and wiring. I bought the dual speaker plate from a member and after a trip to the stereo shop I got 2 3.5" for the front and 2 6 X 9 ovals for the back. These photos show the mounting method I used while assembling my dash. I had the stock radio sent out for update to a 240W 4 channel unit to the same vendor I used on my Comet.
CheersO:)
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After much lurk-studying I opted for the voltmeter change and the MAD conversion in the harness. I changed the vacum guage for a tachometer and drilled the bulkhead connector for the #10's to pass through. I added an auxillary fuse block with four additional circuits, putting the Tach on one and the Voltmeter on one with 2 spares. One of the spares is for the gearvendors unit when the time comes.
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Here is the heater box assembly & install. I had to work about 4 hours to install the "factory replacement" heater core after I got it back from the radiator shop from moving the install flange. The tubes were under tension and I think they would have faulted the first time they got hot water in them.
Now if I can just remember how the cables hook up with the dash installed I will be happy!
Thanks to the member who tipped me on the brown wire double hookup. There is a photo of how I dealt with the insulated issue of the tubes.
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I Got the back end of the car put together. Had to refurbish the backup housings and taillight housings. Found my 67 plate that will be registered to the car. Got the gasket seal in and tortion rods adjusted, thinking about redoing the taillight housings but have to move on for now. One more day of my "all BC all the time" then its back to the real world:-(
DR:coffee2:
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Commando66 said:
Great progress! King County plates!
Click to expand...

Yes, I bought the 67 plate as soon as I started the build and will register it to the car with a custom front plate that says "Class of 67" (wifes)
My Comet has 65 plates and a custom front plate that says "Class of 65" (mine)
O:)
 
I am going stock exhaust manifolds for my 273 with manifold back dual exhaust. To that end I detailed the castings by removing all the superflous material and doing a bit of dress up with my air sander. I removed the heat risor butterfly from the passenger side and brazed the holes shut. Then I took them to my coater and picked the color you see here. The engine will be painted body color with black accents so I think these will look good and correct. Total cost, $4.00 for sanding discs and $100.00 to coat.
Leaves me some cash for other needed things-:)
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After cutting & buffing the doors, I hung them on the car and adjusted them just close. I felt I had to set the car on the wheels to get a true adjustment. With the doors on and close, I installed the side glass and new gaskets where needed. The covering on the car is called Carborundum, a body shop product to protect paint during assembly. I still have a lot of adjusting to do on the doors and glass but with my sholder surgery it will be a while. Next up, plumbing brake lines and assembling engine. :thumbup:
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As I am getting ready to assemble the engine it has been deemed imporntant to know the static compression ration (SCR) and the dynamic compression ratio (DCR). Thanks to all who helped straighten me out in my "Getting Worried" thread. It looks like the concerns are justified as when I chose my cam, I focused on lift and not duration. Lesson learned. In any case, below are some photos of todays work in the shop CC'ing the combustion chambers of my 273 closed chamber heads. Happily I now know that 6 of them are 62.5 CC's and 2 of them are 62.75 CC's. I had to do everything twice as the plastic would not hold without bolts and grease was a no go. I drilled the plate for bolts and used chapstick to seal and it all worked well. Next step to do the 1" down test for the domed pistons after the rotating assembly is in the block. Building cars & engines is hard------sounds like some of my employees at work:)
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Cheers and thanks to all, DR:coffee2:

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I had some time yesterday so I connected all the remaining brake lines to the disc/drum MC. I carefully saved all the original lines and verified them. The proportioning valve was part of the used parts I bought with my conversion for SBP discs. Happily the proportioning valve bolted in the same spot the original splitter block was. Just had to put a new double flare on the line to the rear brakes and make new lines from the Prop-valve to the MC.
DR-------
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Well the Brakes are all in and all four corners are bled and adjusted with no "appearant" leaks. I have good pedal now and 3 MC's left over. Moving on to the next thing-engine assembly. I have been studying Mopar Performance engine book part #P4452790 which goes into compression ratio calculations in depth and give some cool new formulas for calculations. Lots of information in this book!
Cheers-DR:coffee2:
 
I am putting my engine together and photojournaling it. In the meantime I just finished the Dynamat install and am moving on to some more wiring for the new guages. Just a quick photo of the Dynamat in the car ready for carpet.
DRO:)
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