Dougs 67 Notch build

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I file-fit the rings when installing the pistons. Then it was time to degree the camshaft. I used the dial indicator to find TDC on #1, then rotated the assembly both directions to find true TDC and reset the dial indicator on #1 intake lifter to see where the advance was running. I found .050 in both directions and discovered the cam advance is with spec for what I am trying to do. Then I installed the oil pump, windage tray oil pickup and pan. Then I installed the timing cover, new aftermarket dampener and water pump. Coming up will be the head/valvetrain install-I am hoping this weekend.
DRO:)
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Below are some photos of the rest of my engine build. I checked piston/valve clearance with the clay method using the stock solid lifters and pushrods. As expected, all was good but good to know as well. I found TDC with my piston stop and marked the new location on the aftermarket harmonic balancer. Then I installed the heads with the .028 compressed gaskets, impressed with the quality. I soaked the Lunati hydraulic lifters in fresh oil and pumped them up and installed them in the block. Then following the Lunati instructions I set zero lash + 1/2 turn on all valves on both banks. The pushrods I selected work fine, not as close to the rockers as it looks in the photo. Buttoned everything and will paint body color after the first of the year.
Cheers of the season to all-DR:coffee2:
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While I was waiting to finish building my engine, I have been busy with other things on the car. I finished the Dynamat install and am ready to install the carpet. To that end I needed to decide whether to firewall the trunk divider or just copy the original install. I opted for a factory-type install so I went to the upholstry shop and bought some material. Then using the original cardboard as a pattern I build a new divider that is larger than the original. Then I covered it with carpet pad for sound deadner and wrapped it with plastic. The photos tell the story and another step is complete! Up today is repainting all the interior trim-plastic and metal in my friends paint booth-----and the beat goes on------:coffee2:
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Borowed a friends homemade paint booth, had it arranged all week. Had quite a bit to do as I am getting close to installing the interior. 2 part epoxy on hard metal trim, then sanded and shot satin trim color same as dash on that. Prep and vinyl dye the console as it looked like crap and needed to match the rest of the interior. Then concept 1/2 color 1/2 clear with hardner on the 68 steering wheel bought from a member to replace the original 67 wheel which was cracked and unusable. Also, while I was at it I cleaned and vinyl dyed the original interior side panels so all the soft goods and hard goods now all match and are ready for reinstall. Tomorrow I finish my air/fuel meter install and get ready to install carpet. More photos on the way------Cheers-DR:cheers:
Edit, I also painted the original stock heat barrier for the drivers side exhaust manifold. I think it is usable and would give my engine install an interesting look. And the aftermarket version sells for $175.00 so--------you know-----
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Below are some shots of my Innovate LC2 air/fuel readout. I decided where to mount everything putting the processor next to the gauge as it has a status light. I pulled power off an extra circuit and added a ground bar inside which will tie directly to the battery negative. I routed the large cable down the passenger side floor gutter and went through the floor in the rear passenger footwell. I temporaried the cable under the car (bad photo) waiting for the exhaust install. The install is essentially complete, just need to loom up and tie wrap the wires and #6. Next step. Install the carpet.
Cheers to all-DR:coffee2:
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Been a while since I have updated this thread but I have been busy working on the car, just not posting. Today I painted the engine and will be building the wooden cradle to bring in home to mate up with my new transmission build. Cliff notes here--Wash down with degreaser and base coat with silver Por-15. Let flash off and give it two good coats of color, 20 minutes between coats. In this case my body color PPG Concept. Will strip masking tomorrow and let it cure out for the rest of the week, then back to my shop for assembly to transmission and install in car.
Thanks for looking------DR:coffee2:
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I refinished the console with SEM and polished the hardware. I have decided to mount the controller for the Gearvedors overdrive in the console so one photo shows the shifter mockup and the power and ground wire for that mocked up and ready to pull into the console after I get the electronic cables for the GV unit routed and ready to terminate. Moving on to engine/transmission install for the next phase---------
Cheers to all, DR:coffee2:
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I needed a way to bring my painted engine home from the paint shop and using plans listed on this site I build my version of the "standard SB cradle" I used 2 X 12 for the verticals and 3/4" plywood for the floor. As I had to buy a 2 X 4 sheet of 3/4" I decided to build a two-part version of the cradle. The upper has scrap carpet glued to the bottom for sliding on my shop floor, and glued some foam on the top of the verticals to protect everything. The lower has the casters and carpet glued to the top for a "moving dolly" but my thought is to use it to set my transmission on when I get ready to mate the engine and transmission together. All pretty standard stuff.
Go Denver------DR:coffee2:
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This weekend I started adding items to the engine before installing in the car. I am not comfortable lifting the engine and transmission combo with the bolts in my LD4B so I temporarily installed the cast iron 2V intake and lift plate for the install. I installed the stock exhaust manifolds which I had coated and I saved the original left side heat shield and reinstalled it. I am assembling the entire top end accessories with SS allen head fasteners and grade 8 or SS washers where needed. I installed the fuel pump and motor mounts as well. One photo shows the motor with the LD4B and my "too small" Holley carb, they are just mocked up for the photo. I am not using the stock valve covers on the engine, I have a set of Cal Custom units I bought from a member and powdercoated them. One photo shows them mocked up just for an idea. I will polish the fins and they will match the air cleaner I already own with the same design. Next step, getting transmission back and mating to the engine then installing into the car. I will probably install the Gearvendors electronics before installing engine/transmission combo so it is all ready to hook up.
Going to be a big spring for DesertRat hot rods!!!
Cheers and thanks for looking!----------------------:coffee2:
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I am installing Gearvendors overdrive and a lockup converter as part of my build. There is quite a bit if wiring involved and I had to route everything to clear the deck for the front carpet install. Having a bucket seat-console car, I elected to install the GV controller in my console and route the wiring from there. Below are the photos in order of my perceived relevance. 1. The mockup of the controller install. 2 The wiring of the speed sensor signal converter and wires to the shift solenoid. 3. The inside of the console where I placed the auto/manual control and indicator lights. 4. The outside of the console-drivers side where the auto/manual switch & lights are. 5. Photo of controller in console with all wires connected and ready for install.
I am really glad I went this way, I think it will make for a nice freeway driver.
Thanks for looking----------DR-----:coffee2:
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Below are 6 photos of the sequence wiring the engine bay before installing engine. The first shows the firewall with the two #10's drilled through the bulkhead connector. The 2nd is the factory harness being torn completely apart and redone, all damage repaired. Then there are a couple of the rebuild harness install. The last two show my #10's with crimp-ons waiting for fuse/breaker decision. I also show the auxillary ground bar that is connected to the one under the dash. The one you see will be grounded to the battery negative on the down side of the battery shutoff switch that will be installed in the battery negative cable. Thanks for looking--------DR---------:coffee2:
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I will stage the photos and text an I have been hitting it hard for the last few weeks. I posted a couple singles of my engine install, here is the entire sequence. Taking the motor off the engine stand and putting it in the cradle, installing the TC and transmission and installing everything in the car. This will be episode one.
Thanks for looking------------DR------------------------:burnout:
Think i will wait a couple days to post the successive progress on the car-----------O:)
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I completed the installation of my Crackedback headlight relay kit and the circuit breakers from the alternator and to the dash. I wired the alternator feed to the starter relay through a 40A breaker and tied the feeds to the headlight relays to the down side of that relay. The down side of the alternator breaker also goes to the starter relay. Another feed from the starter realy supplies the up side of a 30A circuit breaker which supplies the parallel wires feeding the dash cluster. I installed the headlight relays under the battery tray and installed my battery kill switch. I fabbed up a #4 cu ground cable with a #10 pigtail which is attached to the switched side of the kill switch and the pigtail terminating at the auxillary ground bus shown. I did modify Rob's kit to fit my needs by running all his grounding to my auxillary bus and getting rid of the trigger spade connectors and hard wiring them. Got the console in tonight and will be wiring the GV controller and posting those photos up next.
Cheers all---DRO:)
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Below is a sequence of photos of the completion of the Gear Vendors OD install. Included are modifying the crossmember to take the larger tailshaft adaptor. I also show the signal generator connection and the OD unit itself. The rest of the sequence details the control intallation in the console of the car. Hard to see at the end if the console is a lighted rocker switch to allow me to control power to the controller from the console at the touch of a rocker switch.
DR--------------
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After finding out my engine was factory built without the top cam retainer bolt drilled for oil passage and wanting to look things over again I pulled the front of the engine back off the block. (thank you factory service manual) I drilled the bolt and fabricated a drip tab from some material I had in the shop, installed everything back and am building an oil baffle for the Cal-Custom valve cover I want to use. May install my LD4B intake tomorrow if it goes ok. :coffee2:
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Today I installed my LD4B intake and my Holley carburator. Got the fuel line to the fuel pump installed and got my alternator mocked up. Would have got the power steering pump but after I had it installed I noticed that the newly rebuilt unit has a bent shaft and the drive pully is wobbling. Back to NAPA it goes monday morning.
Cheers---------DR-------------:coffee2:
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Below are three more photos, a side view of my Lokar throttle/kickdown install, a side view of my new alternator and conversion from the standard fan to a new thermal clutch fan and finally my homemade oil pump priming shaft. I just ground a 5/16 allen drive into the shaft itself-got the idea from a post on the site. This way, nothing to break off inside my motor:)
Cheers to all-------DR-------------:burnout:
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Umm, you bolted the flex plate to the engine before you bolted up the trans, rite? Looking real good.
 
First time I have posted to this thread since the new software. Took me 10 minutes to search it, finally got it. I am debating even continuing it or just starting a garage and posting new random photos there and not bothering with the dialouge. I am about done fishing and working so I will have a lot of new stuff to post. I expect to have the car on the road by August if I catch a break. I will upload a test photo to see how it goes.
Cheers to all-----------DR----------------:)

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Well I am back on my build. 90+ degrees in the shop but I got my aftermarket transmission fluid filter installed along with replacing my power steering pully and installing the PS pump. Below are photos of my painting, transmission filter install and PS pump install. Getting ready to deliver to the exhaust shop for system install.

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Good day today, Vacume bled brakes again, installed upper & lower radiator & bypass hoses with Gates heat shrink hose clamps, installed new coil mount purchased from a member and sorted the wiring on the right side of the engine bay. Too tired to loom it up but will get to it this week.

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Well I have gone as far on the car as I can go without installing the new custom exhaust. Below are 6 photos of todays work finishing up the radiator recapture tank and all the right side engine bay wiring. I am waiting to finalize the looming and supports until after the pre-lube and cam break-in run which should happen within 10 days pending exhaust system install. Once the break-in run is done its on to final assembly, hoping the thing doesn't melt down as the only electrical power to the car has been to the dash on the bench during testing-----------------
Here's hoping-----------Cheers-------------Rat.

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