Doug's '68 Dart

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Mopar Momzee said:
Could notch subframe connectors , also I have seen were the exhaust is raised coming through the rear floor boards to exit is rear quarter before tire. Chris birdsong did that on one of his videos on you tube 69 charger looks awesome but it’s some work required.
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Two things about that.
1. noise and heat generated inside the car,
2. In Canada, it won't pass a Provincial Motor vehicle inspection. USA is probably the same.


How about a square side exhaust tip ?

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Douglas Acebal said:
yes, Bill points the tailpipe issue out in the product description. No rear exit exhaust with a Dana for sure. I’m using 8 3/4, but I thought I’d dump out the side NASCAR boom tube style. I like the look. My concern there is getting past the frame connectors. Maybe folks can help by posting their exhaust solutions?

That looks close. Bill pulled off 8x10s with a more aggressive backspacing, but when I plug in his numbers there’s very few off the shelf rims in his configuration.
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Yup! Same problem I ran into as I wanted a 10"or 12" wheel. With the right offset, it would have fit. I ordered my wheels from American Racing wheels. Found out after I got them that American would custom make a set to any spec I wanted. Damm!! Too late to return them.
 
Douglas Acebal said:
Here is my 3-4 year project. As of yesterday, she's stripped down w/exception to front and rear glass. Need to build a storage rack this week before I pull the windshield/back window.

Current long term plan:
Altercation front suspension
Street lynx rear suspension (w/inboard relocated front hangars)
8 3/4 489, 3:91?
Manual transmission conversion
Small block stroker motor
Wilwood brakes
Fronts 275/35/18, Rears 305/40/18 (duplicating Bill Reilly's '69 setup)

Current undertakings before plastic media blast/body work/paint:
USCarTool frame connectors, torque boxes, inner fender braces, mini-tub, firewall patching.

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Douglas, one thing I'll mention to you about your build . Great advice given to me by a member on here so I'm paying it forward. Assemble everything before you put it on the car. Front and rear suspension, Mock up the rad and fan position. Check the wheel for interference in the front bottom section of the front fenders. If you are going to use the reverse light in the dash, modify the wiring harness before you put it back in the car. Tape up the rear window opening before putting the regulator back in. Test the guages with a battery before re-installing and replace all the dash bulbs with LED's. Im sure you may know all this but I thought I'd mention it anyway. This info saved me much grief when I did my car . Maybe others will chime in as well. You can never get enough info!!
 
AAndrews said:
Two things about that.
1. noise and heat generated inside the car,
2. In Canada, it won't pass a Provincial Motor vehicle inspection. USA is probably the same.


How about a square side exhaust tip ?

View attachment 1715859772
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no inspections here. Side exit will be fine. Chris’ drive his car to LA for Fall Fling. No issues.

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Ok. That on has been to our shows too.

I thought this one had some work done for side exhaust too. I’ll look at his Instagram posts…

…don’t see any post about frame or body work for exhaust. The blue car has much higher ride height than yellow one.
 
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AAndrews said:
Yup! Same problem I ran into as I wanted a 10"or 12" wheel. With the right offset, it would have fit. I ordered my wheels from American Racing wheels. Found out after I got them that American would custom make a set to any spec I wanted. Damm!! Too late to return them.
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At what charge?

Bill's Tires: "Fronts are 275/35/18 -about 25.5"x10". Rears are 305/40/18- about 27.5"x12.5"."
Bill's Wheels: "Front 18x9 w 6.3 bs. Rears are 18x10 w 7.2bs. Stock width axle, inboard/mini tubbed"

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AAndrews said:
Hey Kemikal,

1. Washed down and scrubbed with varsoil.
2. Pressure washed and air-dried.
3. Used various sizes of abrasive nylon wire wheels to get to bare metal. (See Below)

Twisted Wire Shank Mount Wire Wheel Brushes
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"Twisted Wire Wheel Brushes feature wire ends in twisted bundles that help provide excellent strength and very aggressive brushing. Models are available for cleaning and remove rust, corrosion, and paint from metal surfaces. Nonsparking brass and bronze brushes are ideal for environments where potentially explosive or flammable materials may be present. Shank Mount models are mounted at the end of a central shank that can be inserted into a chuck or collet for use with power tools and machines ."



Finished off with sandpaper, dremel tool and D/A.

Sprayed with hi build primer.

This took approx 4 days to do.

Cheers!
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My son and I have the interior pretty much done. Ive been using metal wire wheels and the uh...rust/paint remover discs. I forgot what they are called. I never thought nylon would do that much work. Ill look into it, thank you.
 
Douglas Acebal said:
At what charge?

Bill's Tires: "Fronts are 275/35/18 -about 25.5"x10". Rears are 305/40/18- about 27.5"x12.5"."
Bill's Wheels: "Front 18x9 w 6.3 bs. Rears are 18x10 w 7.2bs. Stock width axle, inboard/mini tubbed"

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I'll have to check my invoices later this evening. .I think I wrote the pricing to upgrade them on it.
 
Douglas Acebal said:
At what charge?

Bill's Tires: "Fronts are 275/35/18 -about 25.5"x10". Rears are 305/40/18- about 27.5"x12.5"."
Bill's Wheels: "Front 18x9 w 6.3 bs. Rears are 18x10 w 7.2bs. Stock width axle, inboard/mini tubbed"

View attachment 1715859812
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I don’t think that inner fender brace will work at all.

Mock up a tube hugged against the inner corner and should connect directly to the RMS upper spring mount where the load now is.

more just stick it inside the engine compartment
 
autoxcuda said:
I don’t think that inner fender brace will work at all.

Mock up a tube hugged against the inner corner and should connect directly to the RMS upper spring mount where the load now is.

more just stick it inside the engine compartment
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Hmmmm…. if the shock mount is moved, thus transferring the torsional twisting to the frame rail & k-frame, what does tying the fender to the shock tower actually accomplish? You may have a point. This would also make the core support make a little more sense (tying the two frame rails with a little more strength).
 
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Douglas Acebal said:
Hmmmm…. if the shock mount is moved, thus transferring the torsional twisting to the frame rail & k-frame, what does tying the fender to the shock tower actually accomplish? You may have a point. This would also make the core support make a little more sense (tying the two frame rails with a little more strength).
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Agreed!
 
Douglas Acebal said:
Hmmmm…. if the shock mount is moved, thus transferring the torsional twisting to the frame rail & k-frame, what does tying the fender to the shock tower actually accomplish? You may have a point. This would also make the core support make a little more sense (tying the two frame rails with a little more strength).
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Just trying to tie in the load from the front coil over into the rollcage and car structure.

If you are going to run a brace or bar near the upper coil over mount, why not tie into it? Or tie into the rear k-frame bolt frame area that takes coil over tower load to the frame (dotted line)

RMS with rollcage.jpg


Just some of the tubing for a roll cage. Notice the car structure stops at the front K-member bolt. In front of that is just crash protection.

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Here's closer detail of the side pipes on Chris' blue charger.

I would think the pinch weld was bent/cut or something for clearance??

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It’s in. As soon as it’s in and you put a foot on it you know it’s doing something. Huge difference.

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If you saw a handfull of pinholes, up to 1/8 of an inch w/light coming through in the floor, would you spend the money to replace these floor pans or simply weld/fill 'em in?

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Weld them in then smooth out cut wider then the rust because if it’s rusty the wire will push through , floor pans will take months to get. That’s why I ordered 2 floor pans just to have a spare took 4 months they were back ordered.
 
Classic Industries has them showing in stock (AMD whole floor & trunk)? When I ordered the AMD GTS hood from them it shipped next day.
 
Wow took me 4 months waiting to get mine then I cancelled with summit and ordered directly from AMD and that was faster and that was in December. If there small still would cut them out then patch cutting out the entire floor pan for small holes may not be worth it. Also don’t forget if u need or want to order the wire covers on side of doors I forgot to order now I’m waiting.
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Yes, If I do it I'm only going to use what I need from it, not replace the whole floor. The whole floor ($499) is cheaper than the two pieces. I see you found the bucket seat stiffeners. Are those AMD pieces?
 
They came on floor pan the pans are universal. I just left them on. I have extra floor boards from the rear I cut out I can sent u a picture if u want them.
 
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