Doug's '68 Dart

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Looks great Doug!

Are you going to use a console?

If so , mock up the brackets for it now while the shifter is in place. Its a real PIA to fix after everything is welded as the shifter may hit the front of the top console trim plate if not centered properly. I know this from experience!
 
AAndrews said:
Looks great Doug!

Are you going to use a console?

If so , mock up the brackets for it now while the shifter is in place. Its a real PIA to fix after everything is welded as the shifter may hit the front of the top console trim plate if not centered properly. I know this from experience!
Click to expand...
No console.
 
More progress. Don’t you just love removing undercoating?

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The crank assembly is out being balanced with the RAM Flywheel and Trick Flow Balancer. Meanwhile I am focused on prepping out the short block.

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Very nice....

Is the Air Cleaner custom or off shelf? Ansen?

You using 340 or 360 block? Which stroke?
 
Douglas Acebal said:
Ansen. 360 block, 4.040 bore, 4” stroke Eagle forged crank, Eagle H-Beams, Icon Slugs, 10.5:1 w/Trick Flow Heads.
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Is the "410 wedge" custom casted into the lid by Ansen? or a sticker or something made up?

Either way, nicely executed.
 
autoxcuda said:
Is the "410 wedge" custom casted into the lid by Ansen? or a sticker or something made up?

Either way, nicely executed.
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Custom CAD milled. Ansen will do it to your instructions. I bought through eBay based on a 340 design and put it in the notes to do 410.
 
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AAndrews said:
Don't forget to notch the basepan for the RMS Rack and pinion while the engine is out LOL !!
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My current pan (milodon 30941) is not working out. Hitting the windage tray studs. I have an opportunity to return it and maybe solve both problems.

Would a rear sump pan solve the access problem? Could it create another, perhaps with the headers?

M321 - 340 M322 - 360 Mopar Rear-sump Street/Strip

Or maybe some other pan has better clearances? If you could, check these out for me.

318-340 / 360 Mopar
 
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Douglas Acebal said:
My current pan (milodon 30941) is not working out. Hitting the windage tray studs. I have an opportunity to return it and maybe solve both problems.

Would a rear sump pan solve the access problem? Could it create another, perhaps with the headers?

M321 - 340 M322 - 360 Mopar Rear-sump Street/Strip

Or maybe some other pan has better clearances? If you could, check these out for me.

318-340 / 360 Mopar
Click to expand...

You cut the stud and dimple the pan. I run that pan. Milodon is local and I helped with mock up and supplied K-member for mock up.

You'll have to check everything and probably do some hot rodding fabrication. Looking at what you've done so far, that should be up your alley.


Read here: Milodon Road Race Pan - any surprises on installation?

It's a full on Road Race Pro Touring pan. I've had a stock pan run dry and foam the oil at the track. After the Milodon pan on the same track, never a problem.

It's actually a 1/2" higher (more ground clearance) than a stock pan because there is no dip for the drain plug

Before:

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After:

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Don't forget to mock up the adjustable windage to get it to the minimum spec to the crankshaft so it can scrape some oil off. THEN tighten the outside windage tray bolts, and finally cut the excess threads off.

attachment.jpg
 
autoxcuda said:
Don't forget to mock up the adjustable windage to get it to the minimum spec to the crankshaft so it can scrape some oil off. THEN tighten the outside windage tray bolts, and finally cut the excess threads off.

View attachment 1715950085
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My pan doesn’t have all of the road race features.

I thought about doing that (trim bolts/dimple pan), but it still doesn’t address the blocking of the steering rack bolts (which requires cutting/welding the pan front corners). I’ll think on it a bit.

Do you worry about the windage tray tang? I hear they have cracked and fallen off before.
 
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Douglas Acebal said:
My pan doesn’t have all of the road race features.

I thought about doing that (trim bolts/dimple pan), but it still doesn’t address the blocking of the steering rack bolts (which requires cutting/welding the pan front corners. I’ll think on it a bit.

Do you worry about the windage tray tang? I hear they have cracked and fallen off before.
Click to expand...

Ok, now I see you have the Milodon Low-Pro drag race pan. It's got the same cutout to raise the height of the rearward oil spillover wall.

Are you talking about the windage tray piece in one of my pictures that runs under the oil pump?

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I've never had issue with anything falling off. And my car has very stiff suspension, get street driven, track driven. I even slid off course and dinged up the drivers side and bottom of my new pan (and my new TTI headers). still no issues.

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autoxcuda said:
Are you talking about the piece in one of my pictures that runs under the oil pump? I've never had issue with anything falling off. And my car has very stiff suspension, get street driven, track driven. I even slid off course and dinged up the drivers side and bottom of my new pan (and my new TTI headers). still no issues.

View attachment 1715950113
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The piece carved out to clear the pickup tube. And here’s my pan. None of the road race oil control.

View attachment 1715950115

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