Dougs headers blues

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That helps. It looks much much closer to the bellhousing than my setup currently. All I need is an inch or so. If that's the short fork and the correct z-bar it could work. Because the dougs headers were designed for the stock bellhousing and the short arm fork. I will have to check my bellhousing as well. I for sure do not have a stcok z-bar in the car now. It was modified by previous owners.

I hope i can find a new z-bar and clutch fork at the Spring Fling. I might possible get a setup from Mancini's if they are interesting donating to this project build for Moparmax.com magazine.

Thanks
 
That helps. It looks much much closer to the bellhousing than my setup currently. All I need is an inch or so. If that's the short fork and the correct z-bar it could work. Because the dougs headers were designed for the stock bellhousing and the short arm fork. I will have to check my bellhousing as well. I for sure do not have a stcok z-bar in the car now. It was modified by previous owners.

I hope i can find a new z-bar and clutch fork at the Spring Fling. I might possible get a setup from Mancini's if they are interesting donating to this project build for Moparmax.com magazine.

Thanks

I have a box with 4 or 5 Z bars you are welcome to try. What is the length of your Z bar?

My e-mail at work is [email protected]
 
Got the Doug's headers installed today after I got my parts from Mancini and Brewers.

Doug's do work with the 10.5" bellhousing and clutch. You have to get a few parts from Brewer's Performance to relocate everything to the stock location. They do all the work for you if you are not up to fabbing your own stuff.

Here is what you need from Brewer's to convert to a 10.5 bellhousing with Doug's headers:

-Bell housing fork pivot
-Bell housing ball stud bracket
-New Z-bar or modify your own
-10-7/8 Clutch throwout fork from a B/E body

The stock adjusting rod works but you may need to bend it. Just be careful not to break it like I did. Had to weld it back together.

Once I got the parts together everything cleared just fine. You may need to shim the motor depending on your K-frame tolerances.
 
dave any pics of all these parts ? sounds like the fork you had was to long for an A body,,the fork length is really not body specfic,,it is pressure plate specfic,,, the 9 1/2 clutch uses the same length fork as a 10 1/2 but is tweaked a little,,, the 11 inch uses the longer fork,, pics and al info can be found on brewers web site,,, fork and fork bracket are also designed to work together,,,

hooker 5208 are a good header,,no clearance issues in the tranny area or torsion bar area,, but can be a problem with tall front tires,,,a smaler tire will clear no problems,,some tubes do go thru the fender well,,but the hole the instructions show to cut is way to big,, it can be done with almost not being noticed,,,

has any one tried dodge ram or dakota magnum exhaust manifolds in an early A yet ??
 
dave any pics of all these parts ? sounds like the fork you had was to long for an A body,,the fork length is really not body specfic,,it is pressure plate specfic,,, the 9 1/2 clutch uses the same length fork as a 10 1/2 but is tweaked a little,,, the 11 inch uses the longer fork,, pics and al info can be found on brewers web site,,, fork and fork bracket are also designed to work together,,,

hooker 5208 are a good header,,no clearance issues in the tranny area or torsion bar area,, but can be a problem with tall front tires,,,a smaler tire will clear no problems,,some tubes do go thru the fender well,,but the hole the instructions show to cut is way to big,, it can be done with almost not being noticed,,,

has any one tried dodge ram or dakota magnum exhaust manifolds in an early A yet ??

I know I had the longer fork and that was the problem. The 12.5" fork is the standard size for an a-body with the 10.5" bellhousing. The previous owner made everything work by fabricating their own z-bar and modifying the bell housing ball stud bracket. The geometry is still jacked up because the fork is long. Puts more stress on the adjusting rod.

The conversion Brewer's does is specific. The conversion fork is the same one you would use on a B/E body and measures 10-7/8" Tried finding one at the latest show but everyone was selling as a complete setup. The early a-body fork doesn't really work that well according to brewers because of the geometry. Anyways.

The fork pivot is critcal to get the correct angle/geometry. The standard B/E pivot puts the fork ina downward position thus would hit the Doug's headers. The Ball stud bracket is specific for the particular bellhousing. It is actually has provisions for two different 10.5 bellhousings. Overall I'm very happy that things worked out so far.
 
wel glad it all worked out for you,,,good info knowing the E body fork is positioned differently,,, some pics if you have a few,, thanks,,,,,,is this in your hard top ?? or vert??
 
has any one tried dodge ram or dakota magnum exhaust manifolds in an early A yet ??

I've had ram manifolds on my '63 for about a year now - I posted pictures on a thread a while back. They don't fit great but they do work if the steering column jacket is cut back a bit.
 
from looking at them i would think they would fit,,,maybe easier then headers,,and they breath better then the orignal manifolds,,and can be bougth for 50 bucks a pair,.
 
wel glad it all worked out for you,,,good info knowing the E body fork is positioned differently,,, some pics if you have a few,, thanks,,,,,,is this in your hard top ?? or vert??

The E body fork works. you still need the pivot bracket from brewer's to get the correct angle. I will be doing a thread once I get everything finish and the car is running with full exhaust again. This is on the hardtop.
 
The E body fork works. you still need the pivot bracket from brewer's to get the correct angle. I will be doing a thread once I get everything finish and the car is running with full exhaust again. This is on the hardtop.


ok kool dave cant wait to see it always intrested in clutch options that work,,,
 
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