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solracmopar

solracmopar

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Anyone out there have experience installing Dougs on a 72-73 A body? I am building a 73 Dart but used my K-member, engine and drive-train out of my 72. Right around the power steering is where I'm having a "snag". Please note this is my first set of headers.. ever. Thanks!
 
a%3E
 

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Are you SURE your motor mounts are adjusted right? I had a 65 Valiant with the same headers and P/S and mine fell in and worked great. You might try loosening the mount bolts ane prying the engine over a little.
 
Mine was like that at first, then I shimmed the PS pump on the 2 inboard bolts and it was a little better, about 1/8". When I put in new mounts and a different engine, I suddenly had almost 1/4"
 
I actually had them in wrong when I initially installed the drivetrain. How I found out was my transmount was off by 2". Once I got the motor mounts right everything lined right up.

On the header install I've loosened both motor mounts and have tried shifting the motor left to right, also tried some shims on the power steering side. Seems like the issue is only on the first tube and only on a small area. Just not sure if I'm supposed to shimmy the pipe to fit? Seems odd considering how expensive these headers were.
 
Have you loosened the motor mount bracket on the engine itself and tried to get some movement there? Not just at the mounts at the K frame.
 
StrokerScamp I didn't realize I could get movement at the motor bracket side of the mount. Honestly I'd rather not have to ping these babies if I don't have to!
 
if i may ask, just how much were they? Also what the part number, i been thinking of getting those or tti's

thanks

doug
 
Hi Doug, I just paid $594 off Summit. They are ceramic coated and come with the gaskets and flange bolts. Summit part#DOU-D453. I also had to buy the 90 degree oil adapter (EXPENSIVE). But at least they matched Mancini's price of $159.. Only other thing I bought was a starter off a 91 Dakota $64 (TINY).

I'm hoping to get around this PS fitment issue so I can install the oil adapter and starter.. fingers crossed.
 
Hey man thanks for the info, those are considerable cheaper than tti's, and they look good, on the 90 degree adaptor, is that there recomendation? The reason i ask , is it a clearance issue? i heard from quite a few engine builders thats a no no on a small block as it restricts the flow, not having a small block in 30 yrs (always had big) trying to do this once............

thanks again
Doug
 
solracmopar said:
StrokerScamp I didn't realize I could get movement at the motor bracket side of the mount. Honestly I'd rather not have to ping these babies if I don't have to!
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Yup. I always leave mine loose there so I can adjust the engine around if I have to and then tighten them down.
 
bcuda452 said:
Hey man thanks for the info, those are considerable cheaper than tti's, and they look good, on the 90 degree adaptor, is that there recomendation? The reason i ask , is it a clearance issue? i heard from quite a few engine builders thats a no no on a small block as it restricts the flow, not having a small block in 30 yrs (always had big) trying to do this once............

thanks again
Doug
Click to expand...

Don't know if it restricts flow but it was a stock item on these engines from Mopar for many years. I'm not sure you can even run a filter in the early A body without using the adapter. Maybe with the short filter, I've never tried it.
 
I went back today and loosened up the motor mounts and tried shifting the motor around. This time around I used my engine hoist for support (much easier). However I still found there was simply no room around the PS.

As much as I hated it, I marked off the section that was rubbing and took a pein hammer to it. Then removed the headers and repeated the process a few times until I noticed enough clearance. I decided to have the drivers side header re-ceramic coated for a better finished look. Once I get it back I'll post more pics.

Also, I just spoke with Dougs in CA and the 90 degree oil adapter is not needed. Whats required is a Fram PF43 short oil filter.

Here's some pics of the carnage:
 

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Damn. Well you can't send um back now.
 
Ouch is an understatement! Luckily the area affected is hidden by the PS but STILL... My only hope now is it comes back looking better from the ceramic coat shop.. at a price of course.. $110
 
Well, I'll be damned if I wouldda done all that. I wouldda double checked and triple checked the part numbers and made damn SURE I had the right part numbers. Dougs are very well known for fitting GOOD. I think sumthin was up with those.....but it's too late now. lol
 
What company will you be sending them to ?? I have a set that was done locally and didn't hold up . Need a better source. Thanks in advance...
 
StrokerScamp said:
Well, I'll be damned if I wouldda done all that. I wouldda double checked and triple checked the part numbers and made damn SURE I had the right part numbers. Dougs are very well known for fitting GOOD. I think sumthin was up with those.....but it's too late now. lol
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You got that right!!!!
 
I bet you have B/E body engine brackets, not A body. Or the brackets are on the wrong side of your engine. They move the engine forward and that is the issue you appear to have had.

The biscuit stud appears to be located in the rear half of the mount brackets, A's are in the front half when looking down from the top. You can see the bolt/stud in this pic which was the first tip.

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The top of your pass side valve cover should be about 3" from the firewall. If it's about 4-5", = wrong motor brackets or wrong side.

Someone else had this exact issue and they got the right engine brackets, all was good. I'll say this.... IT'S NOT THE HEADERS!
 
crackedback said:
I bet you have B/E body engine brackets, not A body. They move the engine forward and that is the issue you appear to have had.

The bolts appear to be located in the rear half of the mount brackets, A's are in the front half when looking down from the top. You can see the bolt/stud in this pic which was the first tip.

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The top of your pass side valve cover should be about 3" from the firewall. If it's about 4-5", = wrong motor brackets.

Someone else had this exact issue and they got the right engine brackets, all was good. I'll say this.... IT'S NOT THE HEADERS!
Click to expand...


Leave it to Rob. Now THAT makes sense.
 
Wish I'd seen this yesterday or when he first posted, could have saved some hammer time. I might suggest a bit more patience next time even though it's totally frustrating at times.

I updated my post, I believe the brackets are on the wrong sides, pushing the holes rearward/engine forward. Swap the brackets side to side and he's in good shape except the headers have been clearanced already... damn those are rough now.

All the holes for mounts orient to the front. If the trans mount stud is to the rear, it's on backwards, should be towards the front and the x-member should slide up fairly easy when correct with hole in x-member to the front as well, to the rear, it's on wrong..


Good luck with it, wish I'd seen this earlier...
 
You don't need a 90* adapter either. run a shorty filter.
 
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