Drag Truck Part 2 "blackmark redemption"

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I'm supposed to be getting two 440's tomorrow. I'm just not sure I'll use the ProComp heads. I thought I was getting the copy of the Eddy RPM heads, not the Eddy Victor heads.
In for a dime in for a dollar... this is why I question tens on 5K from the beginning and others have as well... I remember you saying you wouldn't cry if it went over a few hundred dollars and I can see that but somewhere money has to be spent...
 
In for a dime in for a dollar... this is why I question tens on 5K from the beginning and others have as well... I remember you saying you wouldn't cry if it went over a few hundred dollars and I can see that but somewhere money has to be spent...
Wrong. I didn't buy these heads for this project. When I bought the heads, there was no project, just 40% off :). I only count the cost against the project of what I use, not all of what I own. LOL
 
Wrong. I didn't buy these heads for this project. When I bought the heads, there was no project, just 40% off :). I only count the cost against the project of what I use, not all of what I own. LOL
NOT WRONG... LOL..
I know all that...
So much gets lost on the internet...
 
NOT WRONG... LOL..
I know all that...
So much gets lost on the internet...
well, it seemed you implied the heads were bought for this project and if I don't use them the cost gets lost. LOL.
 
A little too eager to “add to cart”:usflag:

SM sells rockers for those heads pretty cheap.
Not at the time as far as the trigger finger, I originally bought them to flip. When I thought to do this project I thought "why sell?". Maybe I'll still use them. Only thing is they have a RPM operating range is super high for a street vehicle.
 
Ok, I read and re-read, I think you meant if I use the heads and buy the valve train hardware, it pinches the budget and thus is why it's hard to go 10's on 5k. First, cast headed 440's fly into the 10's with a yawn. Second, 10's on 10k would be no fun for the trying as it sounds too easy. I'd rather end up at 11.7 for 5k than 10's for 10k. The journey has been and will be more fun than the trip down the track.
 
Not at the time as far as the trigger finger, I originally bought them to flip. When I thought to do this project I thought "why sell?". Maybe I'll still use them. Only thing is they have a RPM operating range is super high for a street vehicle.
You do realize that the video you posted of that d150 who's likely no Street vehicle...lol..
 
as it sounds too easy.
Just like throwing a bottle in the trunk "sounds easy"... LOL..
It reminds me of what most of America is saying right now.."SHOW ME THE MONEY!!!"...
you know if you are some teenage kid on some tight budget with one little four door car trying to go fast it would be one thing.. but with your multitude of cars trucks and vans and your stockpile of new and used parts this whole I'm trying to go as fast as I can with as little money as I can just seems to lose its luster....
 
This is why I've said I know you can go tens in probably any vehicle you have it's just this Watusi dance around the budget that just doesn't make sense...
 
Ok, I read and re-read, I think you meant if I use the heads and buy the valve train hardware, it pinches the budget and thus is why it's hard to go 10's on 5k. First, cast headed 440's fly into the 10's with a yawn. Second, 10's on 10k would be no fun for the trying as it sounds too easy. I'd rather end up at 11.7 for 5k than 10's for 10k. The journey has been and will be more fun than the trip down the track.
I do get the journey thing as well now that I have my car all dialed in and I'm ready to hit the button it's like maybe tomorrow.. the fun was learning and putting it together...
 
This is why I've said I know you can go tens in probably any vehicle you have it's just this Watusi dance around the budget that just doesn't make sense...
it's just me...… I like challenges. Yah, slam a mild 440 in my Duster with a 100 shot and go 10 flat... so easy it's no fun.
 
I figured you were heavy and research taking that long to answer LOL...
Sounds like a nice little mellow well geared streetcar...
Our truck will not be a "little mellow well geared street car" either. But it will be street legal and drive 1 hour to the strip. The rest of the cards will fall where they may....
 
it's just me...… I like challenges. Yah, slam a mild 440 in my Duster with a 100 shot and go 10 flat... so easy it's no fun.
I like the way you slam the mild 440 and a hundred shot like all that happens why do you sleep at night...
Anybody who's actually done the work which there would be a considerable amount for both things mentioned would know the true labor and forethought involved... And expense.. unless you're just trying to hit 10.99 1 time... I mean a Honda car can do that once or twice with enough nitrous.. but building a car to do that and consistently do it all day long at the track is definitely a different story...
 
Not at the time as far as the trigger finger, I originally bought them to flip. When I thought to do this project I thought "why sell?". Maybe I'll still use them. Only thing is they have a RPM operating range is super high for a street vehicle.


Those RPM ratings are rarely correct. You have to build around the heads, not the other way around. I’ll take the better head any day over a smaller head. As long as the bigger head isn’t bigger because someone just ground the hell out of it.

A correctly shaped, larger port is almost always a better deal when you account for it. That means not using cheap headers (there’s a reason why the fast guys spend 2000-3000 bucks for headers), that means not using an off the shelf cam, and spending a bit of time on the phone with the cam grinder, not texts or emails. You can’t duplicate the flow of a conversation in texts and emails like you can on the phone.

I’d also consider a 50 degree seat on those heads. The steeper seats help with low speed air flow and reversion, but again, the cam grinder needs to understand that, and I’ve talked to some who say it doesn’t matter. But it does.

The bigger head will most likely take less port work to get it in shape, and you can take your money and time getting the intake manifold in shape.

Compression ratio makes a big difference when using a head most think is too big for the application. IMO, the closer you get to 12:1 the better off you are, and if you do it correctly, you can still use pump gas.

If you can’t spend close to 1k on a converter, you’re kinda wasting your time no matter what you do. I just ordered a PTC drag week style converter for a street/strip deal for a friend. 8 inch housing and an 8 inch stator. Should get him to 5000ish for flash stall, and with his transmission cooler he can drive it anywhere. Well worth the 875 bucks for a custom converter.

IMO you can use those heads. It’s attention to detail that makes or breaks a build. I’d use a single plane intake with those heads, and a carb with nothing bigger than a 1.470ish venturi. Anything bigger and it starts to kill the bottom. Buy a carb that has changeable brass, like a QF Brawler (just cleaned one up for a friend so they are pretty tuneable but out of the box they have some stuff I don’t like) or the ProForm carbs. The PF carbs are a pretty good bang for the buck, but again, you need to go in and clean up a few things, and then tune from there,

Of course, this blows up and buries your budget. That always happens. Speed costs money. Spent wisely, you can have an overachiever. Spent like a drunken sailor (no offense to sailors and marines) you’ll have an underachiever.

Just my .02 cents, and it’s worth EXACTY what you paid for it.
 
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