Duster Shakes on take off

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7

'76duster

Young but knows some stuff...
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So I have a 76 Duster that originally had a slant 6, 3 speed manual, and 7 1/4 rear end. I put in a sb 360, 4 speed manual, and 8 3/4(3.73 posi). After breaking in the new engine i went to test drive it and when i take off the car violently shakes while releasing the clutch. Once the clutch is released and im rolling the shaking stops. Is this "clutch chatter" it is a new clutch and i did put a pretty aggressive one in? Could pinion angle be causing this?( I dont think its pinion angle just because it stops once im moving but not really sure at this point). If anyone has any insight that would be great.

Thanks
 
I have only had that problem when the gearing was was too tall....but unless your are running a 35" tire I doubt it is your problem.

New flywheel or used one?

sb
 
mopar_nocar said:
I have only had that problem when the gearing was was too tall....but unless your are running a 35" tire I doubt it is your problem.

New flywheel or used one?

sb
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My tire is either 28" or 29" but it is a new 10.5" flywheel and new pressure plate both from american powertrain.
 
well here goes : 1.broken tranny mount 2. misalignment in driveline 3. worn input shaft bearing 4. sticking pressure plate fingers 5. oil on clutch disk 6. warped flywheel or pressure plate 7. loose flywheel or pressure plate . I tried to go from the easiest to the most difficult . OH, I forgot , broken motor mount
 
383Scampman said:
well here goes : 1.broken tranny mount 2. misalignment in driveline 3. worn input shaft bearing 4. sticking pressure plate fingers 5. oil on clutch disk 6. warped flywheel or pressure plate 7. loose flywheel or pressure plate . I tried to go from the easiest to the most difficult . OH, I forgot , broken motor mount
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1: tranny mounts good
2:misalignment is possible will have to look closer at it
3: trans is freshly rebuilt so hopefully not
4: sticking pp fingers is possible, the car sat for awhile before moving
5: oil on disk again is possible
6: warped flywheel or pressure plate(better not be they're new)
7: shouldnt be loose i recall torquing all to spec

First i will check the alignment. Thanks for the info
 
brian6pac said:
is it a sintered disc
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Im not sure what that is sorry. but the clutch is a "science friction street slayer stage 2 ceramix clutch". From what i was told when i purchased it(awhile ago...) it is an aggressive clutch thats why im thinking it might by clutch chatter. Maybe its a clutch that doesnt like to slip, possible it prefers to just engage or not engaged, no inbetween
 
I ran a Hayes racing clutch with a sintered disc and it worked great on the street, but if you got it hot it would chatter.
 
brian6pac said:
I ran a Hayes racing clutch with a sintered disc and it worked great on the street, but if you got it hot it would chatter.
Click to expand...
would it feel like the rear axle was hopping? and would it quit as soon as you had the clutch fully engaged?
 
'76duster said:
Im not sure what that is sorry. but the clutch is a "science friction street slayer stage 2 ceramix clutch". From what i was told when i purchased it(awhile ago...) it is an aggressive clutch thats why im thinking it might by clutch chatter. Maybe its a clutch that doesnt like to slip, possible it prefers to just engage or not engaged, no inbetween
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Not to be a dick but that clutch is junk. All that ceramic, carbon fiber, dual friction crap is 100% marketing.

They chatter like two blue hairs after church and break parts as fast as you can buy them.

Save yourself now. Replace it.
 
Well you are a dick! Why is everybody's parts junk and you tell them to throw them in the trash ? I ran a sintered metal clutch with no marcel for years with no problems,
my friend runs a dual sintered disk and had never had a problem.
 
383Scampman said:
ell here goes : 1.broken tranny mount 2. misalignment in driveline 3. worn input shaft bearing 4. sticking pressure plate fingers 5. oil on clutch disk 6. warped flywheel or pressure plate 7. loose flywheel or pressure plate . I tried to go from the easiest to the most difficult . OH, I forgot , broken motor mount
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Dude, you beat me to it. I totally agree with your ideas.
 
I run a McLeod dual friction organic/ceramic diaphragm clutch behind the 400~ish hp 340 in my 4 speed Duster/demon car, works awesome. Still haven't broken any parts as has been suggested I absolutely would by someone, despite using a small yoke 741 center section from a wrecking yard with god only knows how many miles on it. Oh, and 295/35/18's to hook it up too. Yes, they're more aggressive than a straight organic clutch and they can take some getting used to, but they work awesome if the application is correct.

383Scampman said:
well here goes : 1.broken tranny mount 2. misalignment in driveline 3. worn input shaft bearing 4. sticking pressure plate fingers 5. oil on clutch disk 6. warped flywheel or pressure plate 7. loose flywheel or pressure plate . I tried to go from the easiest to the most difficult . OH, I forgot , broken motor mount
Click to expand...

Nailed it! I know that "misalignment in driveline" covers it but for the OP yes, it could absolutely be the pinion angle. It could also be weak/worn out leaf springs allowing a bunch of deflection on take off, or a combination of both weak springs and marginal pinion angle with the result being wheel hop. Also keep in mind clutches need to be broken in as well, just like new brake pads do before you really start hammering on them. There should be a break in procedure with the instructions for your clutch, or at least some recommendations about what you should/shouldn't do and how many miles you should go before you start doing 4,000 rpm clutch drops with a brand new clutch. I know, reading the instructions is boring and since we all know everything... Anyway, anything with a ceramic component will take more time to break in and behave properly than a straight organic clutch. And just like brake pads, if you don't follow the proper break in procedure you can glaze the clutch/flywheel, leading to all kinds of problems.
 
Thanks for all the replies!
I plan on checking things off the list this weekend to get this sorted out.
 
Have someone get eyes on the rear section of the leaf springs; I bet they're vibrating like a bass-fiddle.
Put some clamps on them and try again. If that solves it buy some better springs, to manage that clutch.
You could swap out the clutch, but what's the point of that? A $700 door stop? I don't think so.You just need to control the torque delivery. If your left foot can't do it, stiffer springs will.
After the springs are upgraded, you may find, it still chatters, and then that would speak to a problem at the disc interfaces. You may have damage in there or just need more break-in time.
But if the springs are not vibrating, Then I would inspect the friction surfaces, and probably swap out the disc.I like the organics for my 367HO. They don't last as long as a CFII say, but are much more street friendly.I found the factory 340 disc, and the CF diaphragm PP a pretty good compromise. Just be prepared to replace the disc every couple of years when the springs pop out of their pockets,lol.And drag-strip neutral drops will split the spring pockets pretty quick. Or peel off the linings. So like I said street duty is fine even with 295s
 
After 10 years of hard street driving and drag racing the same clutch I sent it to Hayes to be relined and resurface the pressure plate and a full inspection, Everything passed, resurface, relined back to me within a week under $75
what a great company to deal with.
 
brian6pac said:
Well you are a dick! Why is everybody's parts junk and you tell them to throw them in the trash ? I ran a sintered metal clutch with no marcel for years with no problems,
my friend runs a dual sintered disk and had never had a problem.
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Easy does it. He's not running a sintered iron disc. Do you even know what that is? I run a sintered iron disc. On a daily driver. If the clutch chatters it's JUNK.

Now, I could tell him to use a sintered iron disc (which McLeod calls the Sof-Lok) but it's expensive to do it right. You have to be willing to tune it. And he probably doesn't need it. He can call Brewers and order a McLeod with a rag disc and be much better off. And not spend all,that money for something he doesn't need or doesn't want to spend the time to tune it.

Junk is JUNK at any price. What he has is a chattering, parts breaking JUNK clutch.
 
He said he's running a street slayer do you know what that is ??

looks like this according to there web site.

clutches-street-slayer.jpg
 
Go to ace-mfg.com and look at what a sintered iron disc looks like.

You don't have one. You have a friction that is the same as brake pads.
 
O.K. first I ask if it was a sintered disk and said nothing about iron!
Sintered meaning material such as copper, iron, steel, ceramic compressed into a shape, And this is not helping the OP question. Is the flywheel iron or steel, has it been surfaced, and yes if the disk has oil on it there is realy no good way to get it out. Good luck 76duster.
 
brian6pac said:
O.K. first I ask if it was a sintered disk and said nothing about iron!
Sintered meaning material such as copper, iron, steel, ceramic compressed into a shape, And this is not helping the OP question. Is the flywheel iron or steel, has it been surfaced, and yes if the disk has oil on it there is realy no good way to get it out. Good luck 76duster.
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Post 8 says you ran a sintered disc. If the disc you ran is like the one in the picture that is NOT a sintered disc. You are confusing **** by calling something something that it's not.

So did you actually use a sintered disc on the street or did you use what used to be called a "velvet touch" disc like the one pictured?
 
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