dyno numbers from my 340 just for reference

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Those numbers are awesome. Car looks great too. Post the dyno graph!

300 at the tires ought to run much better than 13s.
 
ill try to fig out how to post the graph i asked the guy to email the file sense i have no scanner will see what he does
im going to head out now wipe car down check some bolts and go test drive
i have a show for my buddys new auto parts store opens at 3 today ill get pics
and heading to wood ward tonight ill get some pics there

next weekend im going to mopars at red barn show 150 miles one way
hope i have no issues
car seems to run hot on free way makes no sense to me
180 thermo
new pump
rad was cleaned and checked >stock 68 mopar one
viscous clutch fan installed
i just added some water wetter will see how it does in 90 degress
trying to get a shroud so that would help im sure
 
BTW, back in the 80's I had a few rad shops tell me you can NOT clean a plug rad, only can re-core it. If overheats at high speeds, its a clog rad. If its from 1968 its clog, I don;t care if there is only 30,000 miles on it, its freaken old.

Needs a new or re-core rad but could try to just remove the t-stat but I don't know. I used to drive to big rapids for college in the 80's. Car needed a rad also, it be ok for about one hour, then its going to get tricky. Gas stations used to have hoses in back, I would pull off and spray the rad down to cool it off, lots a fun..did help to drive slower, like 60 and not 75
 
Shroud will help more in the city . Did you check the cap , maybe the thermostat is bad ? Should not run hot on the highway . There is a rubber gasket under hood up near front , do you have that on your car ? Think it helps keep air going to rad instead of over it between hood and top of rad tank, every bit helps
Ran my car in city and highway yesterday , was 95 degrees ran cool ,almost same setup you have except the shroud , stock rad and clutch fan ,190 thermostat , do you run plain water or mix of anti freeze water ?
 
" ill try to fig out how to post the graph i asked the guy to email the file sense i have no scanner will see what he does "

Take a picture of the graph and post it that way
 
dodge freak said:
BTW, back in the 80's I had a few rad shops tell me you can NOT clean a plug rad, only can re-core it. If overheats at high speeds, its a clog rad. If its from 1968 its clog, I don;t care if there is only 30,000 miles on it, its freaken old.

Needs a new or re-core rad but could try to just remove the t-stat but I don't know. I used to drive to big rapids for college in the 80's. Car needed a rad also, it be ok for about one hour, then its going to get tricky. Gas stations used to have hoses in back, I would pull off and spray the rad down to cool it off, lots a fun..did help to drive slower, like 60 and not 75
Click to expand...
You can clean it , BUT I would not trust it , the cleaning will just introduce a lot of new weak spots sure to blow a lot sooner . Best practice is to re-core , better that breaking down or cooking a motor a few weeks or months later , cheaper in the long run . They even sell replacement rads online a a decent price .
 
no rubber between rad and core support still gotta track that one down

thermo is 185 190 i think what ever was stock is what i got

took rad to the shop during build had it pressure checked and cleaned i know its more like throwing money out the window vs getting any thing from a rad shop
but they said it checked out good and i tryed it at home in drive way it flowed water pretty good both ways i was just making sure before it went to paint

i would have to get this one record sense id like to keep the tanks org 68 ones
was hoping to make it to winter but dont know if thats gonna happen
temp is 87 out now bee driving on the streets no issues this morning ill know when i take a highway blast later today
 
jerry6 said:
Shroud will help more in the city . Did you check the cap , maybe the thermostat is bad ? Should not run hot on the highway . There is a rubber gasket under hood up near front , do you have that on your car ? Think it helps keep air going to rad instead of over it between hood and top of rad tank, every bit helps
Ran my car in city and highway yesterday , was 95 degrees ran cool ,almost same setup you have except the shroud , stock rad and clutch fan ,190 thermostat , do you run plain water or mix of anti freeze water ?
Click to expand...



never checked cap wasint leaking so i never thought of it

thremo is new dont me notta thou but i can see the gauge move when its opens and closes

50/50 with some water wetter
 
went out to wipe it off again before i go to the cruise in i think i may have found my heat issue popped hood was doing a once over looked at the rad the cap its leaking slightly.
the rad does not have a whole i can see and it was not pissing from any holes under pressure but i did have fluild around the filler neck and theres a hint of rusty loooking residue on the cap like dryed water would do and some spots running down front of tank sense it has that open area for it to run off at
had a second cap not sure how old it was going to pick a new one up when im out and give that a shoot
 
rad is junk some one did the old put a bad cap on to re leave pressure
so rad is coming out tonight have to try and find some place trust worthy next week
 
yup thats why im using these hot days as test and tune
on 2nd round of looking over the cooling system i noticed my second cap was not much better then the first
so today i pulled the thermo was a 180 going to a 160 to see what happens can all ways go back to it
bought a new cap 16pd
pulled hoses flushed block many times also using a acid to help break any rusty issues up

will reinstall all these parts and fill with water and try it out still waiting on a seller with shroud to get back to me that will help im sure

if i get no results i will be taking rad in to get record

fig i would illuminate as many things as possible to make surer my issues are in the rad

as soon as i get caught up ill respond with info wanted graphs and such just to busy right now to look for it
 
well after all that took the car on highway about 25 miles good beating put on it 80 mph plus and never got hot.
I pulled lower line to flush it when i got back no rust came out so i think i may have the problem licked.
Im going to refill with coolant tonight and do a 50 or 60 miles highway blast and make my call its 91 here now so if it holds steady today i would think im good
 
Just hope the acid flush did not weaken parts of the rad , hate to have anti-freeze mix with trans fluid , or some of the passages give out . All that rust it cleans off was at one time metal .
Good luck , hope it holds out , you got a strong running stock 340 .
 
Should have just saved the 180 t stat till fall and tried the no t stat till fall came along. Its only $10 for a 160 t stat but still, why spend money if you don't have to ?

Who uses the rad to cool off the trans ? Run a separate cooler for the trans, IMO
 
I recall now were i got the crazy idea for running no t stat during the summer, it was my local police, lol

Back in the 80's Chrysler still ruled for police cars, somehow I got in backseat of one of those cars one night (squealing tires, got a ticket and let go), well the police never turn off their engines--or how it used to be. His temp gauge was only 120 degrees, yep. So I'm thinking the only way that could be is to have no t stat, that would make sense cause back then pd didn't have video camera's, if you fled and got away, well...so the police on chases used to just floor it flat out, for even 10 miles. Who ever engine latest the longest won, the no t stat allows better cooling at wot, at least for these old Cars, maybe its the rad design, it is different from Ford or GM at the time. Its down flow, not cross flow.

It was not a factory gauge but added on, right down below the middle of the dash, all it had, just the water temp, about 3 1/2 inches the gauge size was.

Now I think 120 is too cool but it was cool outside and the car stop for a while. Maybe driving it warmed up a bit, whatever I thought if my pd runs their Chrysler's like that, I will too. But in cold weather it needs either a t-stat or do like the truckers and block part of the rad, I used to use cardboard from, usps till I got a re built engine, now I just use a t -stat come first frost outside. .
 
120 deg coolant. WOW!!!! Sounds like a good way to significantly shorten engine life. Hope they changed there oil every day or two.
 
120 not sure that is optimal , oil needs higher temps to flow properly , if it was optimal cars would come with a 120 thermostat
 
Condensation, Acid Formation etc. I would love to see used oil analysis on that.
 
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