The prices are published on their website but it was like $150 to narrow the rear and $350 for new axels. I added billet axel ends also which was another $90 I think.
Ebay GT45 + 5.9 Magnum + E85 blow thru
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This thing won't hook. Of course the leafs are sagging and 50 years old. I added sliders to see if that frees them up a little. Eventually I'll do Caltracs though I'd really like to do a triangulated 4-link. For now, I'm going to see what I can get out of the leafs and drag shocks. Maybe clamp the leafs.
Unclamp the rear half of the springs.
Walker434
Well-Known Member
Yep, unclamp the back and add a clamp to the front. That's what worked for mine. Of course I'm not running any boost...... yet.
Awesome, thanks!
And boost that bad boy already!
What do you guys use for clamps?
Walker434
Well-Known Member
This is what I use. Boost will come soon. I just swapped in the Dana 60, currently installing roll cage. Got one Naturally Aspirated race in Alabama in March then goes on the procharger.
I did the driver's side. Removed rear clamp and moved it to the front. I couldn't move it to the very front of the front segment because of interference with the spring boxes. Is that the kind of leaf separation you guys get at the rear? Thats with the rear end hanging in the air, no weight on it. Looks crazy to me.
Walker434
Well-Known Member
Yes that is normal when the car is on jack stands under the frame (subframe connectors)
Got a Victor 340 single plane from a buddy. Will be swapping out the Air Gap soon. Single plane is supposedly better for boost.
New personal best. 7.26 98mph
My 60' approved but still leaving some on the table I think. This is after adding the leaf sliders and clamping the front of the springs.
My 60' approved but still leaving some on the table I think. This is after adding the leaf sliders and clamping the front of the springs.
Reviewed my logs this morning and making notes in this thread which is my extended memory, that the AFR is still incredibly lean. 13.20:1 gas scale with 27* timing, 7 psi.
Not sure if this is testament to the tolerance of E85 (which I measured at an honest 85%) or I've just been incredibly lucky that there hasn't been any detonation or worse. Regardless I can't turn up the boost until I get this Fitech tune squared away, but this gives you guys a good idea of the kind of power you can get from this junkyard 5.9 combo with EBay turbo gear.
Not sure if this is testament to the tolerance of E85 (which I measured at an honest 85%) or I've just been incredibly lucky that there hasn't been any detonation or worse. Regardless I can't turn up the boost until I get this Fitech tune squared away, but this gives you guys a good idea of the kind of power you can get from this junkyard 5.9 combo with EBay turbo gear.
Walker434
Well-Known Member
Was this pass with the new single plane or you still running the airgap?
Still running the Air Gap. Only changes were to my suspension. It definitely hooks now, though a little slow getting out of the hole since I'm only foot braking it. As soon as I figure what the f$%^ is going on with the Fitech tune, I'm going t turn up the boost and then maybe switch to a single plane.
myduster360
Well-Known Member
I'd say you're damn lucky you haven't melted a piston yet.
I said this to you before, you need to get the Fuel Map corrected such that the Fitech doesn't have to ADD huge amounts of fuel but is REMOVING a 5-10% Fuel
Yes, I know. I've maxed out the VE tables under boost and am still running lean. I'm overlooking something else. Maybe I'm not getting enough fuel.
myduster360
Well-Known Member
Only if the Injector Duty cycle is Maxed out(>90%) AND/OR the Fuel pressure is Dropping.
Yeah, thanks. I need to rule out the fuel pressure. That one is nagging me as I don't have a reliable way to measure it under load.
myduster360
Well-Known Member
Fuel pressure gauge taped to the windshield works good
I installed a digital fuel pressure gauge and learned that my pressure is dropping to as low as 30psi under lite boost. After checking all my lines for leaks, removing the fpr built into the Fitech and blocking it off I determined my issue was with the new Quantum 380lph pump. Opened up a support ticket with the EBay vendor and they said they would send me a new one. I also went ahead and ordered the latest AEM 400lph pump rated for E85/E90. Both arrived today. Hats off to the Quantum guys. Great support. I decided to install the AEM. Dropped right in place, confirmed all my fittings were good and leak free and went for a test drive. Guess what? Pressure still dropping. Base is 58psi and briefly goes to 60 under boost and then starts to drop. So, something else is going on. Not sure. My new gauge sucks, bad elec connections, the FPR? Don't know.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Any voltage drops at the pumps? Can you alternator handle the load for higher psi along with everything else you have on the car needing amps?
For example on my build I have 3 fans on radiator, 2 fans on heat exchanger, the pump for the air/water ic, the fuel injection, normal car demands and also for a meth pump which I still may or may not use, two fuel pumps I had to get a 200amp alt to support it all.
For example on my build I have 3 fans on radiator, 2 fans on heat exchanger, the pump for the air/water ic, the fuel injection, normal car demands and also for a meth pump which I still may or may not use, two fuel pumps I had to get a 200amp alt to support it all.
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Thanks for chiming in Matt. I think it must be electrical also. I'm running the pump off of a relay that ties straight to the pos side of the battery in the trunk. I'm going to try moving the ground from the pump straight to the neg side of the battery and not the frame where it currently is. I believe I have enough alternator (120amp) but I should add up my total load. Aside from the Fitech and fuel pump I run a single Chevy HHR electric rad fan. I'll measure my voltage at the pump also. AEM says it needs 13.5v ideally.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Calculate the Amperage You Need
Can go here and see its a decent calculator, I'd also see if you can find the amperage that fan pulls too. Sounds like it should be enough. Was looking up the pumps and do you run the check valve? If you are that ups the amp draw. Just to help with your calculations.
Current Draw (40 psi): 9.73 amps no check valve, 10.68 amps with check valve (13.5v)
Can go here and see its a decent calculator, I'd also see if you can find the amperage that fan pulls too. Sounds like it should be enough. Was looking up the pumps and do you run the check valve? If you are that ups the amp draw. Just to help with your calculations.
Current Draw (40 psi): 9.73 amps no check valve, 10.68 amps with check valve (13.5v)
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I ran the fuel pump ground direct to the battery, 12 gauge wire. Measured voltage at the pump and I'm getting ~13.6-13.7 so voltage seems to be good. I did a back of the napkin power budget and I think I'm around 70amps with everything running.
Electric rad fan = 11-12 max, 30 at start
Fitech = 25 max
AEM Fuel pump = 25 max
Everything else = 10-15 amps?
Went for another run and I'm still seeing fuel pressure drop as low as 30psi. I even turned off the rad fan (it's on a toggle). To add to my confusion the Fitech logs are showing fuel flow increase as boost/rpm rises.
Electric rad fan = 11-12 max, 30 at start
Fitech = 25 max
AEM Fuel pump = 25 max
Everything else = 10-15 amps?
Went for another run and I'm still seeing fuel pressure drop as low as 30psi. I even turned off the rad fan (it's on a toggle). To add to my confusion the Fitech logs are showing fuel flow increase as boost/rpm rises.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Must be the gauge then
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