aeonmcallister
Active Member
It will definitely fit 318 heads. The port size on the intake out of the box really needs about 1/8-1/4 inch shaved off to be a proper gasket match with a 360/340 aluminum head.
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Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI
- Thread starter JoesEdge
- Start date
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It will definitely fit 318 heads. The port size on the intake out of the box really needs about 1/8-1/4 inch shaved off to be a proper gasket match with a 360/340 aluminum head.
I received my Pro Flo 4 yesterday and looking over the goods I noticed the distributor they included in the kit is a Mallory Unilite.
I seem to remember these had problems back in the day..
Has everyone received the same dizzy in their kits?
If so are they working ok?
I seem to remember these had problems back in the day..
Has everyone received the same dizzy in their kits?
If so are they working ok?
Mopar73340
Well-Known Member
I am assuming you have the same as came with my Proflo3 and 4. Can you post a picture of it? I have not read any issues about the distributors although I wish they could have used the two clamps to hold the cap on like the factory Chrysler distributor. Most issues seem to be sensors especially O2 sensors taking a dump. I just had one go bad.
Mallory belongs to Holly, I'm 100% certain this is not a Mallory unilte.
This distributor has a hall effect switch with a different size tooth for cam timing, as required for sequential injection. You have to use this exact distributor for the system to function.
So I opened the unit up and it appears to be a hall effect, not the one that used light inside, also there is no provision for advance, I guess it is all controlled in the software..
It is not as nice as my MSD full billet piece, but it should work..
It is not as nice as my MSD full billet piece, but it should work..
The uni light had a bad wrap with garbage components at one time. Actually a very good distributor and system. The bad wrap they got was the kiss of death they couldn’t shake like so many others. Like the MoPar W5 & Stage VI heads. Even though it was corrected, the damage was done.
Mopar73340
Well-Known Member
Same distributor as I have with the ProFlo4 and ProFlo3. No issues with distributor. Yes all timing is controlled by the ECU.
My only issue with it are the screws holding the cap on instead of clamps similar to an OE Mopar units.
My only issue with it are the screws holding the cap on instead of clamps similar to an OE Mopar units.
JoesEdge
Well-Known Member
Is there any truth to the distributor being too tall and hitting the wiper motor?
I dunno have not installed it yet, but is is pretty tall
it would be cool if you can picture it side by side with your stock one. Maybe they already changed the distributor model to a shorter one after the feedback received.
I would certainly like to put my wiper motor back in there! (now removed because I rather had the EFI runinng than the wipers)
yep, the interesting thing is to see it side by side vs the stock distributor to have an idea if its indeed considerably taller like mine or they already have a shorter more stock like height, like it should be to clear the wiper motor space
aeonmcallister
Active Member
Just make sure when you install it you use the addendum from the Eddy tech site. https://misc.edelbrock.com/forum/PF4-Distributor-Install.pdf. After months of dealing with timing issues I just found this and finally dont feel like throwing the system in the trash. The reason this is so important is because all advance is set by the software. The instructions included in the kit discount the collective knowledge on how to install a distributor so the adendum clears it up. When I initially installed mine I set the crank at 12degress and stabbed the distro to where it was roughly 12 degrees BTDC. The problem with doing that was that the software is using 12BTDC at the crank as a reference point for the short tooth in the hall sensor not base timing. Essentially I was one tooth off so even thought the crank is at 12BTDC the rotor needs to be on the #1 on the distro. In order to accomplish this I had to turn the oil pump gear 1 tooth clockwise and boom it runs like a dream now.
yes, timing management with this system is very easy and effective. its great that you were able to get it running properly. mine ran okay since the beggining.
This weekend I was messing around with the tune, since I installed an MSD shift light and was trying to get it to "turn on" at 6k RPM in the road, hahaha.
I noticed a slight hesitation at high RPMs and saw that sometimes the AFR was around 13-13.5 instead of 12 which is what I set it at (I was running map 5034). I decided to load a another map to see if that corrected it, and after trying around other 3 maps I ended up with map 5037 and that one really nailed it. Map selection can get confusing because your setup may not meet all ranges in the edelbrock guideline table, so thats what messes things up I believe.
In my case I have a mopar small block (360) that has a 426 stroker, hyd roller 238 cam and aluminum ported heads with 2.08" intake valves, I guess that changes all the airflow characteristics of a stock engine with just a cam upgrade. Despite the mods I get a pretty good vacuum at idle (16-20) because its roller type and the profile can be more agressive. Very pleased with the results, the car fells a lot stronger now because it goes instantly to 12's on AFR on full throttle.
The message is keep trying maps until you really get it just where you want it. Changing maps its pretty easy. Just make sure you screenshot every "custom settings" like fan turn on temp, timing, etc.
I noticed a slight hesitation at high RPMs and saw that sometimes the AFR was around 13-13.5 instead of 12 which is what I set it at (I was running map 5034). I decided to load a another map to see if that corrected it, and after trying around other 3 maps I ended up with map 5037 and that one really nailed it. Map selection can get confusing because your setup may not meet all ranges in the edelbrock guideline table, so thats what messes things up I believe.
In my case I have a mopar small block (360) that has a 426 stroker, hyd roller 238 cam and aluminum ported heads with 2.08" intake valves, I guess that changes all the airflow characteristics of a stock engine with just a cam upgrade. Despite the mods I get a pretty good vacuum at idle (16-20) because its roller type and the profile can be more agressive. Very pleased with the results, the car fells a lot stronger now because it goes instantly to 12's on AFR on full throttle.
The message is keep trying maps until you really get it just where you want it. Changing maps its pretty easy. Just make sure you screenshot every "custom settings" like fan turn on temp, timing, etc.
quick question: does any of you have a MSD shiflight and stock tach connected to the pro flo?. If so, where did you wire them to?, to the negative side of the coil (I have a can coil type) or to the "tach output" from the EFI computer?.
In my case I have an MSD shift light and the stock tach, I have them both connected to the negative coil side. Not really sure the stock tach will work with the pro flo tach output or not, the MSD shift light should work without issues.
Thanks for sharing your experience with this and setups used.
In my case I have an MSD shift light and the stock tach, I have them both connected to the negative coil side. Not really sure the stock tach will work with the pro flo tach output or not, the MSD shift light should work without issues.
Thanks for sharing your experience with this and setups used.
Mopar73340
Well-Known Member
I have the stock tach and Sun Super Tach2 connected to the coil. No issues. Can’t answer about the light.
Throwing out some extra info for everyone else who's posted in this thread, but maybe hasn't seen one going on in the ignition section.
I'd love if anyone else could read through what's been posted and confirm what I found when checking my rotor phasing.
It looks like I might have mistimed the distributor when I stuck it. The Edelbrock addendum wants to see 12deg of advance "built in" by having the motor at 12° and then sticking the distributor in with the rotor at 0 and the hall effect right on the t short tooth.
Pro Flo 4 Timing
I'd love if anyone else could read through what's been posted and confirm what I found when checking my rotor phasing.
It looks like I might have mistimed the distributor when I stuck it. The Edelbrock addendum wants to see 12deg of advance "built in" by having the motor at 12° and then sticking the distributor in with the rotor at 0 and the hall effect right on the t short tooth.
Pro Flo 4 Timing
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Hi, I experienced something similar in my setup. We noticed first at the dyno session and noticed some bumps in the graph and inside the car it felt like hesitations, we did not hear misfires or backfires at that time. played with the timing starting from 34 down to 30 or so, ended up in the middle ground of 32 and left the full advance until 4k RPM.
Originally the can ran kind of lean (13-13.5) with the 426 matching map, later I moved to a much larger engine map and now AFR is right where the target wants it to be (12-12.5) so it improved considerably, this allowed me to also set the full advance to 2.6k RPM, which is a lot more responsive, in parallel I pulled back final timing to 30 degrees.
When driven hard I noticed some times that hesitation at RPMs above 4k and sometimes heard misfires very seldom. Given the fact that the car has a 426 stroker and 2.73 gears I don't rev it up past 4kRPM that frequently (360HP @ 400lb-ft at the wheels at 4500 feet above sea level, using pump gas).
But your post brought this small issue immediately. When setup we set it to the 12 degrees fixed, then when outside we timed it with the light gun and it matched the edelbrock computer readings, but I don't remember how high we went in measuring it still matched. Would a good test be to check the light gun vs the Edelbrock ECU readings with the engine running up to 6k RPM?
Originally the can ran kind of lean (13-13.5) with the 426 matching map, later I moved to a much larger engine map and now AFR is right where the target wants it to be (12-12.5) so it improved considerably, this allowed me to also set the full advance to 2.6k RPM, which is a lot more responsive, in parallel I pulled back final timing to 30 degrees.
When driven hard I noticed some times that hesitation at RPMs above 4k and sometimes heard misfires very seldom. Given the fact that the car has a 426 stroker and 2.73 gears I don't rev it up past 4kRPM that frequently (360HP @ 400lb-ft at the wheels at 4500 feet above sea level, using pump gas).
But your post brought this small issue immediately. When setup we set it to the 12 degrees fixed, then when outside we timed it with the light gun and it matched the edelbrock computer readings, but I don't remember how high we went in measuring it still matched. Would a good test be to check the light gun vs the Edelbrock ECU readings with the engine running up to 6k RPM?
My efi edelbrock sump fuel pump died yesterday 2 blocks away from home. It had been running fine, but lasted only 3k miles or so. Ran fine all the time, it was mounted behind the passenger headlight. Measured pump terminals resistance and was like 1ohm compared to 24 ohms on the new pump. Had the pwm feature enabled, and 90% fuel pump for 2-3 seconds under acceleration. Anyone has experienced this with this kit, dying so early?.
I happened to have a new spare kit because of rhe promotion they once had. Installed the new pump and could not get it to fill up, the mechanical worked fine. But fuel was not gettin in. Tried filling it up manually, and fuel did not get in. I tried the same with the old ine and gas went just right in. I took apart the failing pump to see what could be blocking the inlet and saw a couple of floaters.
Decided to take the new one apart since I had no choice and the floaters were stuck, moved the assembly with my fingers and was able to pull the infeed plunger back but tended to get stuck again, pulled the floater and the spring wire broke. Ended up making the spring loop again with the same spring and some pliers until it fit and the plunger did not get stuck for both floaters. The assembly had a kind of assembly grease that was already dry and got everywhere, tried to blow as much as I could and put it back together, filled up with fuel already. The whole assembly is tricky to put back together because of these floaters and the fuel regulator diaphragm. The car started right after, no apparent leaks and was able to get home.
Will leave it running today for a while to make sure is not leaking or overflowing. Im dissapointed because the original sump pump lasted so little, and the new one did not work right out of the box.
I happened to have a new spare kit because of rhe promotion they once had. Installed the new pump and could not get it to fill up, the mechanical worked fine. But fuel was not gettin in. Tried filling it up manually, and fuel did not get in. I tried the same with the old ine and gas went just right in. I took apart the failing pump to see what could be blocking the inlet and saw a couple of floaters.
Decided to take the new one apart since I had no choice and the floaters were stuck, moved the assembly with my fingers and was able to pull the infeed plunger back but tended to get stuck again, pulled the floater and the spring wire broke. Ended up making the spring loop again with the same spring and some pliers until it fit and the plunger did not get stuck for both floaters. The assembly had a kind of assembly grease that was already dry and got everywhere, tried to blow as much as I could and put it back together, filled up with fuel already. The whole assembly is tricky to put back together because of these floaters and the fuel regulator diaphragm. The car started right after, no apparent leaks and was able to get home.
Will leave it running today for a while to make sure is not leaking or overflowing. Im dissapointed because the original sump pump lasted so little, and the new one did not work right out of the box.
Mopar73340
Well-Known Member
Everything I had heard about those type of setups is that the pumps run hot. Multiple problems with fuel boiling etc. One reason I decided to go with an in tank pump.
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