Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI

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Hughes recommended me ngk R5671A-8

I believe the hesitation comes from a fuel map not suited for the engine combination.

The edelbrock tech forum recommended me map 5016, but it felt worse. I was running map 5030 previously.

Based on the confirmation posted above I tried a map for a larger displacement engine, based on the fact that my heads are ported, has larger valves and higher ratio rockers. I used the 440 mild map and felt much better. One of the things I noticed is that the FT correction is now less than 30, when before it was always to the limit.

I will try the 440 race map. I think that will be the right one. Will post the results
 
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I went the other direction (I was running map 5030 originally), and chose map 5034 instead, what a difference!. The short term compensation has a much lower value, and the engine is much more responsive, no more slight bogging so far under heavy acceleration.

AFR goes into target AFR much faster. Could it be due to the ported heads with larger valves and higher ratio rockers?.
 
Ivan Baez said:
I set the idle timing to 18 and is much more responsive
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Mine's at 17*. I lowered the all in rpm from 3000 to 2500 to quicken the curve, {36* total +8 vacuum advance} didn't help a bit. Added fuel, pulled fuel, still feel it sag part throttle when it shifts.
 
redliner said:
Mine's at 17*. I lowered the all in rpm from 3000 to 2500 to quicken the curve, {36* total +8 vacuum advance} didn't help a bit. Added fuel, pulled fuel, still feel it sag part throttle when it shifts.
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what is you engine setup and map used?
 
Ivan Baez said:
what is you engine setup and map used?
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'90 LA 360 roller block, Eddy LA RPM heads with the pushrod tunnels clearanced and gasket matched intake ports, 10.25:1 compression, Hughes 226/230 cam, headers. 4.10 gears, 727 trans with a currently stock converter, however the trans is coming out shortly for a freshening. Been in there 13 years. Considering a 2200 stall, but I pull a 4500lb camper with this truck so can't get too crazy on the converter. Turns about 2500 at 60mph.

The too large for low down grunt intake ports are even bigger now. Had to take out up to 3/16" on the port widths of the intake. The mismatch was horrible, and none of the port windows were the same size. The CNC'd port openings in the heads looked like hell too, had to do several hours worth of cleanup on those as well. Lousy quality work by Edelbrock in my opinion.

Using map 5014 in the computer, per a 45 minute phone call with Edelbrock tech. This thing just doesn't have the balls it should have. Stock converter aside, nailing the throttle from 3000 to 5000 rpm is mediocre at best. WOT fuel is currently 12.8.
 
redliner said:
'90 LA 360 roller block, Eddy LA RPM heads with the pushrod tunnels clearanced and gasket matched intake ports, 10.25:1 compression, Hughes 226/230 cam, headers. 4.10 gears, 727 trans with a currently stock converter, however the trans is coming out shortly for a freshening. Been in there 13 years. Considering a 2200 stall, but I pull a 4500lb camper with this truck so can't get too crazy on the converter. Turns about 2500 at 60mph.

The too large for low down grunt intake ports are even bigger now. Had to take out up to 3/16" on the port widths of the intake. The mismatch was horrible, and none of the port windows were the same size. The CNC'd port openings in the heads looked like hell too, had to do several hours worth of cleanup on those as well. Lousy quality work by Edelbrock in my opinion.

Using map 5014 in the computer, per a 45 minute phone call with Edelbrock tech. This thing just doesn't have the balls it should have. Stock converter aside, nailing the throttle from 3000 to 5000 rpm is mediocre at best. WOT fuel is currently 12.8.
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Do you use the edelbrock EFU fuel sump pump?. The lousy response you reffer to comes with kindo of bogging from the engine?, if so please take a look at the AFR during acceleration. Initially I had a problem like this and the AFR took a long time to get where it should (leaned out badly). After changing to a larger displacement map the AFR response improved greatly. That allowed me to use a more agressive timing curve as well so the engine feels a lot stronger and responsive.

I have mine set at 12.2 on WOT and 13.5 or so on cruise, just as reference.

I suggest you try map 5019 and see how it does. Hope it improves.
 
Ivan Baez said:
Do you use the edelbrock EFU fuel sump pump?. The lousy response you reffer to comes with kindo of bogging from the engine?, if so please take a look at the AFR during acceleration. Initially I had a problem like this and the AFR took a long time to get where it should (leaned out badly). After changing to a larger displacement map the AFR response improved greatly. That allowed me to use a more agressive timing curve as well so the engine feels a lot stronger and responsive.

I have mine set at 12.2 on WOT and 13.5 or so on cruise, just as reference.

I suggest you try map 5019 and see how it does. Hope it improves.
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May I ask why so rich at cruise? Why not run at stoich or leaner during cruise?
 
racerjoe said:
May I ask why so rich at cruise? Why not run at stoich or leaner during cruise?
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My engine seems to like it better this way, response when pressing the throttle is also better and quicket to go to WOT AFR.

Since the car is pretty light the fuel consumption is still okay for a 6.9L engine :)
 
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I have to say its one hell of job to get this thing really roaring. We cant get more than 31 degrees of total timing no matter what, and it seems that the engine would like 35ish fore most HP. No matter what we do, theres always missfires above 5000.
 
Dusterfreak said:
I have to say its one hell of job to get this thing really roaring. We cant get more than 31 degrees of total timing no matter what, and it seems that the engine would like 35ish fore most HP. No matter what we do, theres always missfires above 5000.
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the missfires occur with a lean AFR or it has plenty of gas and still misfires?
 
Can someone share his settings for crank fuel and cold start enrichment?. When I had the carb the car fired right up, with the pro flo it takes 4-5 seconds to fire.

The other day that I changed the map this was even longer (10-15 secs) and I even smelled overheated starter or wires, It improved after that obviously to the 4-5 secs stated above, but its certainly not fun to crank it like a badly tuned car.

I noticed that turning up the enrichment crank parameter improves this in my case (also if you spray the filter with starter fluid fires right up) but Im curious what others have done to resolve this.

Take care,
 
aeonmcallister said:
Rather than start a new thread I hope I can get some help here from those who have already installed and tuned the PF4. I have mine installed and as some have said the Edelbrock forum is not overtly helpful when trying to find answers to tuning questions. Especially on Small block Mopars.

My setup.
1969 340 bored 60 over with stock type sealed power cast flat tops 4 four valve reliefs that come slightly out of the bore. stock forged bottom end
Heads are older proform speedpro for a 340 so they have the open chamber piston relief area like the Eddy performers for a 340. they are advertised at 65cc. with 1.6 roller rockers.
Cam is the following.
Make:
Chrysler
All timing components are brand new. Billet double roller timing chain with magnum tensioner, new intermediate shaft, new cam, cam bearings, rockers, lifters, valve springs and rattler balancer.

355 true trac 8 3/4 rear in a pro touring setup 67 coronet. ( I know B body) but you A body guys tend to not be as rigid when it comes to things like EFI, so there is more knowledge here than on FBBO.
Engine:
340 "LA" Mopar
RPM Range:
2000 to 6000
Camshaft Type:
Hydraulic Roller
Intake Valve Lift:
.520" rocker adjusted .554
Exhaust Valve Lift:
.515" rocker adjusted .549
Advertised Intake Duration:
282°
Advertised Exhaust Duration:
286°
Intake Duration @ .050":
229°
Exhaust Duration @ .050":
233°
Lobe Separation:
110°
Intake Centerline:
106°

Proflo4 is setup with 35lb injector and i have tried 43 and 58 psi with the same issues.

Issues:

First off with this particular cam I find it damn near impossible to set the timing at 12@ at 750 rpm which is step numero uno in the setup.(timing bounces around to much at that RPM but if I rev it to 1000 I can get it to hold the 12@ so thats where I am at on step 1. For step 2 I am at a loss I cant seem to get the IAC below 50%. I have tried removing the throttle cable, I have tried the bump it down and turn the key off in small increments but I can only seem to go so far with this method before RPM creeps up and the IAC starts going back the other way. Any tips here would be great to start?

I have been able to get the car to idle quiet nicely but its driving that I find issue with. The best tune I have worked out so far was 34 @ all in at 2800. The car would pull could until 3000 rpm than stutter until around 4k before picking back up. i have not pushed it past 4500 due to Im still breaking in the trans(883) and rear end and the new engine. Im curious with my setup what those of you that have this setup working would recommend for my setup as a starting point. Because right now its running so poorly I just dont feel comfortable driving it much and for the cost I would expect more from the so called self learning but it just seems to be making things worse.
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Update: After tearing the front of the motor back down I had found that I made a boneheaded mistake using one of the adjustable billet roller timing chains. I inadvertently had the Cam retarded by 6 degrees. This resulted in no low end torque and issues with getting the timing right. After resetting to the proper center-line I put the motor back together and then ran into new issues. The cam listed above with the 1.6 rockers had to much lift and the result was that the valves would not close completely. Compression test resulted in only 120PSI per cylinder on newly built motor. Also after the change the springs were compressing to interference levels. After some review I decided I would swap to a smaller cam rather than go to a 1.5 rocker. The reason for this is the 1.6 have perfect geometry and the new 1.5 rockers I purchased were going to require a geometry correction kit. After installing LUN-20200715 Camshaft, Hydraulic Roller Tappet, Advertised Duration 264/270, Lift .485/.485, and visually setting the preload the engine sounded great but I continued to have tuning issues. New compression test #,s were within range of 200-220PSI. It was still not revving past 3k RPM with out backfiring. This was with the base 5014 tune and 17 initial and 35 all in timing. Finally last night I was able to get it running right. After seeing some of the suggestions on here I decided to back the all in timing down until it would rev past 3k. I went ahead and took it down to 31 all in at 2800 and now she pulls good. I will continue to adjust it from there to reach optimal timing but ultimately the 35 all in was just too much timing for an initial setting on my particular motor.
 
Mopar73340 said:
View attachment 1715235612 I was running the RPM Airgap so I didn't notice any difference as far as the air cleaner and hood clearances. The manifold is slightly taller but the throttle body is a little shorter than a carb so the difference is minimal if any. Attached picture of interference with distributor installation.
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I’m so glad I read this article! I had to run out to the garage and mock mine up. If definitely needs a trim where the distributor goes in!

AEC67698-D443-405F-9816-D69C25AACEF6.jpeg
 
aeonmcallister said:
Make sure you check valve cover fitment. I had to buy 3/8 spacers for my valve covers because the sides of the intake were so high.
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I milled as much of the injector boss off as I dared, and still had to take large cuts out of the valve cover rails on my fabricated set. Figures that it's one of the few things I didn't take pictures of, but I took the welds back to flush and then had to blend the 90 deg pretty heavily.
 
darndart said:
WTF was Edelbrock thinking when they made this manifold? Not a chance valve covers are going to fit either without serious modifications! Not everyone who buys this intake will have the equipment or skills to fix these fitment issues!!

View attachment 1715594084

View attachment 1715594085
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Noticed that you’re running a Super Victor, I guess that they’re the same but the ProFlo4 comes with an “EFI” manifold so not sure what differences that may or may not deliver?

5ABDE7C1-4416-4347-A385-D6B6E16C7BFD.jpeg
 
Cal Tonsley said:
Noticed that you’re running a Super Victor, I guess that they’re the same but the ProFlo4 comes with an “EFI” manifold so not sure what differences that may or may not deliver?

View attachment 1715594170
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From what I could find, the Super Victor labeled one was the standalone manifold they sold/sell. The EFI marked one is the one included in kits. It appears they're the same manifold, just with a modified pattern for the different text.
 
darndart said:
WTF was Edelbrock thinking when they made this manifold? Not a chance valve covers are going to fit either without serious modifications! Not everyone who buys this intake will have the equipment or skills to fix these fitment issues!!

View attachment 1715594084

View attachment 1715594085
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yeah, it's obvious that it won't fit. But it's like the distributor issue, I think that when it was on a part that was considered a "race" manifold, their expectation was that people are used to modifying race parts.

On the other hand, including it in a kit that has a low cost of entry for a full efi/ignition system puts it in the hands of regular people who expect stuff to bolt on.

I was lucky and knew in advance, I put my intake on the bridgeport and milled as much as I felt comfortable off the efi bosses. It was the distance to the top of the intake port that stopped me. The rest came out of the valve covers.

Honestly, I could have machined the intake, run cast or stamped covers and used a spacer to avoid the grinding. But the fabricated covers are huge, there was no other solution.
 
TurboGLH said:
yeah, it's obvious that it won't fit. But it's like the distributor issue, I think that when it was on a part that was considered a "race" manifold, their expectation was that people are used to modifying race parts.

On the other hand, including it in a kit that has a low cost of entry for a full efi/ignition system puts it in the hands of regular people who expect stuff to bolt on.

I was lucky and knew in advance, I put my intake on the bridgeport and milled as much as I felt comfortable off the efi bosses. It was the distance to the top of the intake port that stopped me. The rest came out of the valve covers.

Honestly, I could have machined the intake, run cast or stamped covers and used a spacer to avoid the grinding. But the fabricated covers are huge, there was no other solution.
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That’s great, but not everyone has the knowledge or resources to mill there intake, as you did. Edelbrock should address the issues at hand!
 
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