Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI

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I just installed this system on my 410.
What is your vacuum at idle? Any efi system likes a wider lobe. Mine is on a 112 and 236/243. Your 110 and long duration for a 340 is going to be difficult no matter what efi system you use.
It should idle with 12 deg. I wouldn’t be concerned with 750 rpm. A little higher is ok.
In order to lower the IAC, you need to OPEN the throttle not close.
How did you fit the distributor? I shortened mine 3/4”.
Feel free to call me as I have lots of efi retrofit experience. 516.384.6438

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You had to shorten your distributor?!?!?!
I just installed this system on my 410.
What is your vacuum at idle? Any efi system likes a wider lobe. Mine is on a 112 and 236/243. Your 110 and long duration for a 340 is going to be difficult no matter what efi system you use.
It should idle with 12 deg. I wouldn’t be concerned with 750 rpm. A little higher is ok.
In order to lower the IAC, you need to OPEN the throttle not close.
How did you fit the distributor? I shortened mine 3/4”.
Feel free to call me as I have lots of efi retrofit experience. 516.384.6438

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I just installed this system on my 410.
What is your vacuum at idle? Any efi system likes a wider lobe. Mine is on a 112 and 236/243. Your 110 and long duration for a 340 is going to be difficult no matter what efi system you use.
It should idle with 12 deg. I wouldn’t be concerned with 750 rpm. A little higher is ok.
In order to lower the IAC, you need to OPEN the throttle not close.
How did you fit the distributor? I shortened mine 3/4”.
Feel free to call me as I have lots of efi retrofit experience. 516.384.6438

View attachment 1715575663

View attachment 1715575664


So in doing some research elsewhere the whole lobe separation had come up before. You confirmed that. I probably will just give you a call. Was finally able to get the IAC reset and it has not improved the tuning. current plan was to go back to a 1.5 rocker but if I have to get another cam I may nix that plan.
 
What is your vacuum reading at idle?? I have the ProFlo3 on my 408 with a 110* cam and 10” of vacuum at idle and have no issues tuning. I have the same issue trying to set timing and have found It is easiest to set by bringing the rpm up to about 2K with the timing locked at 12*.

To much timing to early will cause erratic behavior around 3K rpm. I have increased the rpm for all in to 3800.
 
I just installed this system on my 410.
What is your vacuum at idle? Any efi system likes a wider lobe. Mine is on a 112 and 236/243. Your 110 and long duration for a 340 is going to be difficult no matter what efi system you use.
It should idle with 12 deg. I wouldn’t be concerned with 750 rpm. A little higher is ok.
In order to lower the IAC, you need to OPEN the throttle not close.
How did you fit the distributor? I shortened mine 3/4”.
Feel free to call me as I have lots of efi retrofit experience. 516.384.6438

View attachment 1715575663

View attachment 1715575664

How did you do that or where you got ir from?. I have lost my wiper motor because the pro flo 4 distributor is too tall and interferes with the wipers motor.

Thanks for your feedback!
 
I took my distributor apart and took a section out of the lower housing, welded it up and machined the weld. Then cut the shaft down, duplicated the bottom blade and drilled a new hole for pin.
 
I took my distributor apart and took a section out of the lower housing, welded it up and machined the weld. Then cut the shaft down, duplicated the bottom blade and drilled a new hole for pin.

wow, it is great work, looks stock. congratulations.

Unfortunately if is beyond my fabricating skills :(.
 
Is anyone running the proflo 4 on a 426 stroker or something alike?. What map and settings are you using and what have you gotten out of it in terms of HP and torque?

I have built a 426 stroker out of a 360 mopar engine and installed a proflo 4 EFI system on it. The car is running okay but at the dyno the power graph seems less smooth than what I had before with the carb (EFI lines are in RED, the others are from the carb). I wonder if I choose the right profile cam. I have a Hughes engines SER3842ALN-10 (cam card is here --> http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/..._2015/3842.jpg. Let me know if you think it should be mild or race just to make sure I set up the wizard correctly.

I used the recommended settings from Hughes in regards of timing, idle, etc. and modified it during the dyno run session (about 4 hours) but could not get it to perform better than that. In the street the car feels strong but expected a larger improvement (RED lines in the dyno graph) from having slightly larger valves (2.02 to 2.08 intake), ported the Edelbrock performer RPM heads, installing 1.6 ratio rockers instead of 1.5 and swapping the Edelbrock 1411 carb for the pro flo 4 EFI (had an edelbrock performer air gap intake before).

I set the idle timing to 18 degrees during the weekend instead of the previous 15 it had, feels much stronger since you press the accelerator.

Advance starts at 1300 RPM (idle set to 1050 RPM). Total spark set at 33 degrees with full advance at 2800 RPM.

Surely a dumb question but what happens if you increase idle timing further?

WOT AFR target 12:1
Cruise AFR target 13.3:1
Idle AFR target 13.5:1

pump shot 99%, duration 3 seconds, otherwise it leans out a lot (+17 AFR) when going WOT and takes a long time to go down, not reaching the AFR target.

This engine likes gas, if I put it leaner feels like it does not pull, respond as well when pressing the accelerator. When set like this it reaches AFR target all right.

Important to mention that the car was dynoed at 4500 ft above sea level, with 91 octane pump gas.

Edelbrock reccommends using the 5016 map. But how do I hand pick the 5016 base map?. Also, the 5016 map according to the manual says its for 331-380 cu with very low vacuum, mine is 426cu and vacuum at idle (1150 RPM) according to the proflo data is 15-17 inches. Fuel pressure is 47.9 psi fuel pressure, I have the Edelbrock fuel tank sump kit that was installed as it came out of the box.

I got response from Hughes yesterday on how they would classify this camshaft, is mild or race, the answer was kind of in between street and race, this is their answer: "It is more of a middle of the road cam used in a lot of stroker application."

I have driven the car about 400 miles after the EFI was installed. Feels better now than when I ran it at the dyno.

Thanks for your feedback

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The 5016 MAP is RACE cam/58PSI fuel pressure/35 injectors when going through the setup.

would this be correct for my application?, the 5016 map according to the manual says its for 331-380 cu with very low vacuum, mine is 426cu and vacuum at idle (1150 RPM) according to the proflo data is 15-17 inches. Fuel pressure is 47.9 psi fuel pressure, I have the Edelbrock fuel tank sump kit that was installed as it came out of the box.
 
Lower numbered maps are leaner, higher numbered maps get richer. With the cam you have being borderline the best thing to do is try it and see. If it seems to be to lean, move up to the next higher numbered map.
 
Lower numbered maps are leaner, higher numbered maps get richer. With the cam you have being borderline the best thing to do is try it and see. If it seems to be to lean, move up to the next higher numbered map.


Thanks for the tip!
 
Rather than start a new thread I hope I can get some help here from those who have already installed and tuned the PF4. I have mine installed and as some have said the Edelbrock forum is not overtly helpful when trying to find answers to tuning questions. Especially on Small block Mopars.

My setup.
1969 340 bored 60 over with stock type sealed power cast flat tops 4 four valve reliefs that come slightly out of the bore. stock forged bottom end
Heads are older proform speedpro for a 340 so they have the open chamber piston relief area like the Eddy performers for a 340. they are advertised at 65cc. with 1.6 roller rockers.
Cam is the following.
Make:
Chrysler
All timing components are brand new. Billet double roller timing chain with magnum tensioner, new intermediate shaft, new cam, cam bearings, rockers, lifters, valve springs and rattler balancer.

355 true trac 8 3/4 rear in a pro touring setup 67 coronet. ( I know B body) but you A body guys tend to not be as rigid when it comes to things like EFI, so there is more knowledge here than on FBBO.
Engine:
340 "LA" Mopar
RPM Range:
2000 to 6000
Camshaft Type:
Hydraulic Roller
Intake Valve Lift:
.520" rocker adjusted .554
Exhaust Valve Lift:
.515" rocker adjusted .549
Advertised Intake Duration:
282°
Advertised Exhaust Duration:
286°
Intake Duration @ .050":
229°
Exhaust Duration @ .050":
233°
Lobe Separation:
110°
Intake Centerline:
106°

Proflo4 is setup with 35lb injector and i have tried 43 and 58 psi with the same issues.

Issues:

First off with this particular cam I find it damn near impossible to set the timing at 12@ at 750 rpm which is step numero uno in the setup.(timing bounces around to much at that RPM but if I rev it to 1000 I can get it to hold the 12@ so thats where I am at on step 1. For step 2 I am at a loss I cant seem to get the IAC below 50%. I have tried removing the throttle cable, I have tried the bump it down and turn the key off in small increments but I can only seem to go so far with this method before RPM creeps up and the IAC starts going back the other way. Any tips here would be great to start?

I have been able to get the car to idle quiet nicely but its driving that I find issue with. The best tune I have worked out so far was 34 @ all in at 2800. The car would pull could until 3000 rpm than stutter until around 4k before picking back up. i have not pushed it past 4500 due to Im still breaking in the trans(883) and rear end and the new engine. Im curious with my setup what those of you that have this setup working would recommend for my setup as a starting point. Because right now its running so poorly I just dont feel comfortable driving it much and for the cost I would expect more from the so called self learning but it just seems to be making things worse.

Does the Edelbrock system have data logging? I'd recommend adjusting the idle timing to achieve the highest engine vacuum, especially with the LSA you have on that cam. I run the MS3X system and vary the timing at idle to smooth out the idle RPM. Basically when idle RPM drops timing advances, when RPM increases, timing retards. This is a very small scale, we're talking 100-125 RPM or so. My idle timing varies between 15-18 degrees. Idle RPM is 850 and variation (on a digital tach on computer) is less than 100RPM. Most analog tachs filter out the variance. My autometer tach doesn't even move, it's rock solid.
 
would this be correct for my application?, the 5016 map according to the manual says its for 331-380 cu with very low vacuum, mine is 426cu and vacuum at idle (1150 RPM) according to the proflo data is 15-17 inches. Fuel pressure is 47.9 psi fuel pressure, I have the Edelbrock fuel tank sump kit that was installed as it came out of the box.
Try map 5029.
 
What kind of plug gaps you guys have? My motor hits a wall if I have more than 30,25 of total timing, wonder if I have too big gap.
 
What kind of plug gaps you guys have? My motor hits a wall if I have more than 30,25 of total timing, wonder if I have too big gap.

I have the same issue although mine seems to happen around 34*. It seems to be a characteristic of the EFI system. I’ve heard all kinds of theories as to why. Edelbrock tech won’t talk about anything other than advancing the timing until this happens back off a degree or two and your done.
 
No, no pinging. It just doesnt fire properly, like a turbocar with bad sparkplugs, you know.

It feels like a small bogging, right?, at the dyno it looks like spikes or a dirty line. In my case this happened when the advance curve goes in too fast, what we did initially was to set total timing to like 6k RPM or something like that. Currently what I did was to set idle timing higher (18) and pull in the advance to 3800 RPM and seems to work fine.

My engine currently has platinum plugs, which is not what hughes recommended, but my mechanic put them on, and I have had no time to replace them. I will change them to see if there is any difference.
 
It feels like a small bogging, right?, at the dyno it looks like spikes or a dirty line. In my case this happened when the advance curve goes in too fast, what we did initially was to set total timing to like 6k RPM or something like that. Currently what I did was to set idle timing higher (18) and pull in the advance to 3800 RPM and seems to work fine.

My engine currently has platinum plugs, which is not what hughes recommended, but my mechanic put them on, and I have had no time to replace them. I will change them to see if there is any difference.
Not sure which ones Hughes have recommended but very important to run “Resistor” type spark plugs as per Edelbrock’s recommendation. I have read about a lot of Pro Flo4 issues instantly cured by running a resistor plug and thereby eliminating RFI (interference) with triggers and the ECU
 
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