Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI

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Mopar73340 said:
I’ve got the system to work. My major problem with them is the lack of information of how the system works in the instructions. I believe we all know how to install an intake and there are plenty of instructions for that. I believe there needs to be more technical instructions provided. The form moderator disagrees. I’ve also posted information recently that I received via tech support and was confronted by the form moderator saying it was a bandaid and that the information was inaccurate. Then when I disagreed with said person I’ve been locked from responding.
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I look at it kinda like a transmission rebuild kit.. :Lots of companies sell them and give out info to assist, but if you really want it to work right you need someone who really knows how the whole system works in the real world applications..
 
Heywodja said:
I look at it kinda like a transmission rebuild kit.. :Lots of companies sell them and give out info to assist, but if you really want it to work right you need someone who really knows how the whole system works in the real world applications..
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let me elaborate a little further. Yes I’ve got the system to work. Is it perfect no but I do expect once I finish tweeking and get some more miles on it that it will be better than the carb it replaced for a driver. Let’s face it most of us are gear heads and enjoy tweeking our cars. Most of my technical questions to tech support are answered by saying try it and see what happens. Duh, I already know I could do that but was expecting a little insight as to how the system works which is lacking in the instructions. I also understand all combinations are different and wasn’t expecting a set in stone answer just something to give me some insight and point me in the right direction.

Another issue is I don’t believe they thought the system out before production. Example, the throttle shaft should accept the carb linkage adapters for Chrysler and Fords as these are already available and would make it better to fit their motto as “ready to run out of the box”
 
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GMachineDartGT said:
What’s the problem?
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I believe there should be some technical information or instructions provided if asked for to explain system parameters and how the settings change said parameters. There are multiple parameters to set but no explanation of how exactly they affect the system.
 
Mopar73340 said:
I believe there should be some technical information or instructions provided if asked for to explain system parameters and how the settings change said parameters. There are multiple parameters to set but no explanation of how exactly they affect the system.
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ok, I understand that part. What was your problem?
 
We had issues trying to get my buddies Pro Flo 3 to start. That’s where the issue with voltage started.

Personally on my two systems, a 3 and a 4, I would like to understand the timing parameters, vacuum advance included and fuel modifications. I’ve figured most of them out now via trial and error.
 
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Mopar73340 said:
We had issues trying to get my buddies Pro Flo 3 to start. That’s where the issue with voltage started.

Personally on my two systems, a 3 and a 4, I would like to understand the timing parameters, vacuum advanced included and fuel modifications. I’ve figured most of them out now via trial and error.
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These sound like general questions that aren’t related to efi. I needed engine dyno time to figure out my optimum total timing is 30 degrees.
 
GMachineDartGT said:
These sound like general questions that aren’t related to efi. I needed engine dyno time to figure out my optimum total timing is 30 degrees.
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Well I suppose that’s your opinion but if the ECU is controlling timing and air fuel ratios then I want to understand how the changes in the tablet affect the system both timing management and fuel management. I’m not referring to how these changes affect the engine function.
 
Mopar73340 said:
Well I suppose that’s your opinion but if the ECU is controlling timing and air fuel ratios then I want to understand how the changes in the tablet affect the system both timing management and fuel management. I’m not referring to how these changes affect the engine function.
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There are a lot of parts out there that require a degree of knowledge as a base before installing. Understand that because they market a system doesn't mean they are bound to training the customer on EFI. That's why there are pros. The reality is this hobby is filled with people that have no business turning wrenches. Its just the nature of the beast unfortunately.
 
Anyone had this: Afr says 10 all the time, so basically it means that the sensor doesnt read. Did I soak it at some point? Is it ruined for good?
 
Update: it does measure but it runs so rich that gas is flowing from the pipes and I cant get it leaner.
 
It’s telling you -10 on the short fuel trim? Is this just at idle? If so you can go into advanced tuning and subtract fuel from idle, cruise, or wot. Are you sure your running the correct map? I have had better luck selecting the map based on vacuum numbers at idle than based on cam duration numbers. There is a chart at the back of the install instructions that lists map #’s and vacuum range along with duration.
 
Yes the AFR was 10 and that means its not doing anything. Target idle afr is 13.9 and its running far from that, 11-12.5 and thats soaking the engine in gas. How fast should it adjust?
 
I’m not sure what is going on. You say it’s running at 10 then you say 11-12.5?!? If target is 13.9 it should be learning and subtracting fuel. This only happens in closed loop after temp reaches 170*. You can also go into the cold start/fuel modifiers and subtract fuel. Is it warmed up when this happens or cold? Can you take a picture of the tablet while it’s running?
 
Dusterfreak said:
Update: it does measure but it runs so rich that gas is flowing from the pipes and I cant get it leaner.
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If that's true, you are probably washing down the cylinder walls and diluting the oil. Might want to change the oil and keep and eye on it until you get it leaned out or you may have a complete overhaul in the near future.
 
Mopar73340 said:
I’m not sure what is going on. You say it’s running at 10 then you say 11-12.5?!? If target is 13.9 it should be learning and subtracting fuel. This only happens in closed loop after temp reaches 170*. You can also go into the cold start/fuel modifiers and subtract fuel. Is it warmed up when this happens or cold? Can you take a picture of the tablet while it’s running?
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Long story short: Engine had total rebuild and the video above was from the setup wizard warm up. Yesterday I tried to warm it up so I could change the oil and check that everything is good, leaks etc. I had massive trouble getting it to start at all, I had to add crank fuel 7% to get it running. And when it fired up, the AFR reading was 10 for about 15 seconds and then slowly leaned down a little but at that point, I could smell, see and feel the gas literally draining from the pipes. Also it didnt keep running unless I opened the throttle a little. How the hell is it that rich but still didnt want to fire at first before i added crank fuel? Next time when I start it, do I have to just wait until its at 170 and see if it leans to target?
gzig5 said:
If that's true, you are probably washing down the cylinder walls and diluting the oil. Might want to change the oil and keep and eye on it until you get it leaned out or you may have a complete overhaul in the near future.
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Yeah, the engine had a total rebuild and that was third time it was running. I all ready drained the oil, there was little bit of oil in the gasoline I might say. :p I didnt drive it since the rear axle is in overhaul... Goal was only to warm it up so I can change the oil.
 
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Unfortunately it’s really difficult to diagnose over the internet. It doesn’t sound to bad in the video posted above. First thing I would do is make sure you have the correct map loaded for your engine. Start over and re load map again. If still rich at idle open advanced tuning and subtract fuel until you get close. Make sure the IAC is adjusted correctly. Get a video or at least a picture of the tablet with the gauges displayed so I can get an idea of what’s happening.
 
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Allright! User error, it works after changing spark plugs. Now Ill just have to be paitent and get it on the road for more adjustments.
 
Dusterfreak said:
Allright! User error, it works after changing spark plugs. Now Ill just have to be patient and get it on the road for more adjustments.
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Nice!!! Were the spark plugs really old or something? I hope to see a driving video sometime soon.
 
No they were actually brand new, but I soaked them so bad trying to get it running that they didnt fire anymore. I also noticed that I have 35lb/hr injectors but the setup wizard didnt give that option because I gave engine size 318, I had to change it to 340 to get to choose the correct injector. Bet that will cause rich AFR because the smaller injector should be open longer than the bigger.
Rear axle is still a work in progress.. So hopefully Ill be on the road in couple of weeks. Thanks to corona, I have time to spent in the shop, no where to go except the carage.
 
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